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default	Journal of a Residence in China and the neighbouring countries from 1830 to 1833. With an introductory essay by the Hon. and Rev. Baptist Wriothesley Noel.

JOURNAL

OF A

RESIDENCE IN CHINA,

Src. fye.

VRINTED BY GEO. ELLERTON,

GOUGH SQUARE.

JOURNALSRESIDENCE IN CHINA

AND THE

NEIGHBOURING COUNTRIES

FROM

1830 to 1833.

BY DAVID ABEEL,

MINISTER OF THE DUTCH CHURCH IN NORTH AMERICA, AND MISSIONARY OF THE AMERICAN BOARD OF MISSIONS TO

SOUTH-EASTERN ASIA.

REVISED AND REPRINTED FROM THE AMERICAN EDITION,

WITH

AN INTRODUCTORY ESSAY

BY THE

HON. AND REV. BAPTIST WRIOTHESLEY NOEL, M.A.

MINISTER OF ST. JOHN'S CHAPEL, BEDFORD ROW.

LONDON:

JAMES NISBET AND CO., BERNERS STREET.

MDCCCXXXV.

INTRODUCTION.

Besides the intrinsic value ofthe information afforded in the following narrative, it derives further interest from relating to a part of the world with which we are so little acquainted. It is to be regretted that the author has not always mentioned his authorities for the interesting facts whicii he has stated respecting those islands of the Archipelago which he did not personally visit, and, should this work reach a second edition in America, it is to be hoped that the desideratum will be supplied.

There is a slight difference between this edition of the work and that which has been published in America; some obscure expressions having been omitted, and a few words, more commonly employed by American authors than by those of this country, having been changed into those synonymes with which the ear of an English reader is more familiar.

The principal places visited by Mr. Abeel were Canton, Macao, Batavia, Singapore, Malacca, and Bankok, each of which affords a wide sphere of missionary exertion. A few statistical details, illustrative of their civil and religious condition, may

contribute to the interest of his narrative, and prove acceptable to the reader: to which may be added a short notice of Penang, as one of the chief spheres of British Missionary effort in that part of the world.

Canton and Macao.—The unbridled insolence of the local government at Canton, towards all foreigners, has imparted to the population generally a contempt for Europeans which is not found among the inhabitants of either of the other maritime provinces *. This circumstance renders Canton a less promising field of labour than, from the amount of its population and the extent of its trade, it otherwise would be.

The jealousy of the Portuguese Government of Macao circumscribes the efforts of a missionary there also; and, to the day of his lamented death, Dr. Morrison had little opportunity of preaching the Gospel openly to the Chinese: yet his invaluable labours have prepared the way for all future missionaries to the Chinese empire. By his two great works, the Translation of the Bible into the Chinese Language, and his English and Chinese Dictionary, together with the Grammar which he formed, he has rendered that language easily accessible to every student, has materially abridged the term during which a missionary to that country must be content to learn rather than to teach, and has provided the

• See Voyage of the Amherst, pp. 3t—35, &c.

missionary body with the very best means of communicating instruction to that reading people.

The existence of a small church at Canton, likewise, proves that the Lord still works, according to His promise, with the ministers of His Gospel *. The Chinese converts who have made a Christian profession by baptism, assemble every Sabbath for Divine worship, under the care of Leang Asa, who has for some years given himself to the work of the ministry. Le Asin, a young convert, begins to be useful to his countrymen—Choo-Sean-Sang calls his family to join him in prayer, and reads with them the Scriptures—Agong, one of the converts, distributes Christian tracts among his heathen connexions—and Leang Asa is indefatigable in his ministry f.

In May 1830, with another Chinese Christian, he travelled into the interior, distributing Chinese books in the towns and villages. On the 11th of June he entered the town of Kaou-Chow-Foo, a hundred and twenty miles distant fromCanton,accompanied by three porters, who carried his Christian books. It was the day of the examination of the candidates for literary honours from all the adjacent country. Leang Asa distributed his books among the students who came to the examination, remained in the place till July, and then returned to Canton J. In October, 1833, a

• Matt, xxviii. 19, 20; Mark xvi. 20.

f Thirty-ninth and Fortieth Reports of London Missionary Society. | Missionary Annual for 1834, p. 117.

similar meeting was held in this city for the district of Kwang-Chow-Foo. On this occasion Leang Asa and two of his friends distributed the Scriptures and religious tracts to multitudes of the literary candidates, some of whom had come from towns and villages a hundred miles distant. The books were given publicly, and were eagerly received. Some even returned to beg for more *.

The ministry of Leang Asa is rendered the more interesting by the-fact that soon after the commencement of his Christian labours he was called to endure persecution. Having written an essay entitled " The True Principles of the World's Salvation," he printed at Canton a hundred copies for distribution. Before, however, he was able to distribute them, the blocks and the books were seized by the Police. He was then apprehended himself, and thus describes the treatment which he received from the authorities :— "I was brought before a Mandarin for trial, who told me that my books about Jesus, and my believing in the doctrines of Jesus, were a violation of the law. After trial, I was put into a guard-room; yet, while there, I thought to myself, ■ This is a book of the true doctrine of Jesus, the Saviour of the world, which exhorts men to turn from vice and become o*ood : why should I be persecuted ?' I afterwards induced the Minister (Dr. Morrison) to interest persons to speak to the Mandarin on my behalf, and to liberate

• Fortieth Report of the London Missionary Society.

me. At length they listened to my friends, and, after giving me thirty blows with the bamboo, and beating the soles of my feet till the blood flowed, I was liberated. To suffer thus was hard; and, besides this, the mandarins and police-officers extorted from me seventy dollars. But, after I had suffered persecution and loss of property, I did not presume to turn my back on the Lord Jesus Christ, and the great mercy of his redeeming love and merits, but accounted myself a sinner, suffering the punishment due to sin *." Since that time he has only been more zealous in the cause of Christ.

Though the Mission has lost, by the death of Dr. Morrison, an experienced, prudent, and devoted head, yet Leang Asa is still sustained by the friendship and counsel of the two missionaries from the American Board of Missions, Mr. Bridgman and Dr. Parkers.

Java.—Nearly the whole of this island is subject to the King of Holland. Throughout the whole of the Dutch territory there are Chinese settlers, most inadequately provided with missionary instruction. The Dutch Governors have been successively favourable to the labours of Mr. Medhurst, the missionary of the London Society, stationed at Batavia. The mission is of slow growth; but Mr. Medhurst has surmounted many discouragements, and does the

• Missionary Annual for 1834, p. 115. t Missionary Register, Feb. 1835, p. 94.

A 5

work of an evangelist with intelligence, assiduity, and zeal. He has two assistants,—Mr. Young, an European; and Lucas Mouton, a native Christian. There are eight services during the week, attended, when the different congregations are reckoned together, by about five hundred persons, European, Malay, and Chinese. Of these about a hundred and twenty are native Christians. Six natives of Celebes, resident at Batavia, were baptized in the year 1833, and twelve more were desirous of receiving that ordinance. Six native Christians have been admitted to the Lord's Table, and six more have professed their desire to join them. The European communicants are nine-. In a neighbouring place, visited by Mr. Medhurst, and without a missionary, there are sixty communicants. Two Chinese schools, attached to the mission, contain forty children. There is an English day school consisting of thirty children; and a European orphan school, of fifteen orphans, has lately been placed under his superintendence. The missionary press is in active operation, and the books and tracts distributed in the year 1833 amounted to 18,092*.

Malacca, Penang, and Singapore, as British settlements, are still more interesting to the English reader. They have all risen rapidly in population and importance since their connexion with England.

• Fortieth Report of the London Missionary Society.

Malacca was ceded to the British by the Dutch

in 1825. The town is situated in N. Lat. 2 deg. 14 min., and E. Long. 102 deg. 12 min. The territory extends about forty miles along the coast, and about thirty miles inland; containing an area of eight hundred square miles. The interior is mountainous; the climate healthy; and the thermometer ranges from

72 deg. to 85 deg. throughout the year.

In 1815 the population was 16,876; in 1817,

19,627; in 1822,22,000; and, by the latest return at the India-House, it now amounts to 34,606. Of these 34,606 persons, 22,874 are Malays and Bugis, 4,748 Chinese, and 229 Europeans, or of European descent. The rest are Siamese, Battas, Arabs,Hindoos, Sepoys, Indo-Portuguese, &c. &c.

As the experiment of Chinese female schools has

been chiefly tried at Malacca, it may be interesting to the reader to see the following analysis of the

Chinese population of the settlement in 1826.

Men, married.."" 736 Women, married.... 848

unmarried 1419 unmarried... 693 Boys 732 Girls 578 2887 2119*

At this settlement there has been a mission of the

London Missionary Society since the year 1815, when it was commenced by Dr. Milne. In 1816 Dr.

• Martin's History of the Colonies, vol. i. p. 422, &c

Morrison and Dr, Milne founded the Anglo-Chinese College, to the erection of which Dr. Morrison gave 1000/. with an annual subscription of 100/. for five years. It was designed to facilitate the acquisition of the English language and of European literature^ by Chinese students, and to help European students in the study of the Chinese language and literature. It is open to European students of every religious denomination, as well as to Chinese; and at the time of the latest accounts there were thirty students. The two missionaries of the station are Mr. Hughes and Mr. Evans.

The last accounts of the schools, published by the London Missionary Society, state that there were then four schools for Chinese boys. Besides these, there were five schools for Chinese girls, flourishing under the superintendence of Miss Wallace. That lady has since accepted the invitation of some American merchants at Canton, to become their agent in promoting female education in Siam; but the Society for promoting Female Education in the East (a Society which is calculated to afford most useful assistance to the Missions in India and the Eastern Archipelago, and eventually, should China admit of Protestant exertion, to those which may be planted in that empire) is preparing to send out another lady, to take the place which she has left vacant. Besides the Chinese schools, there are four others for Malay

children, and the whole number of children under Christian instruction is five hundred*.

Penang.—Penang, a picturesque island, situated about N. Lat. 5 deg. and E. Long. 100 deg., contains about a hundred and sixty square miles; its greatest length being sixteen miles, and its greatest breadth twelve. Though the central region is mountainous, the island is generally fertile, clothed with luxuriant wood or rich vegetation. Georgetown, the capital, is situated within a capacious harbour with good anchorage, on the East coast. It is a neat and wellbuilt town, of which the principal shopkeepers are Chinese. The climate is healthy, and the thermometer ranges from 76 to 90 degrees. When the island came into the possession of the East-India Company, in 1786, a few miserable Malay fishermen were the only tenants : at present the inhabitants amount to "33,560, of whom 500 are Europeans, and 8989 Chinese f.

In 1819 Messrs. Beighton and Ince were sent thither by the London Missionary Society; Mr. Beighton as missionary to the Malays, and Mr. Ince to the Chinese. Mr. Beighton continues his useful labours to this clay. Mr. Ince, a valuable and devoted inissionary,died in April 1825, and has been succeeded by Mr. Dyer. There are six Malay schools, in which

• Fortieth Report of the London Missionary Society. f Martin, vol. i. p. 411,&c.

two hundred and six children are taught, of whom forty-three are girls; and four Chinese schools, in which there are twenty-three boys and thirty-two girls. To the support of these schools the Government contributes thirty dollars monthly. A mission chapel has been built. There is a mission press, and many Christian books have been circulated. Thirteen natives have been admitted into the Christian church by baptism; and the English congregation consists of about seventy, of whom nine are communicants*.

Singapore.—The island of Singapore is situated between 1 and 2 degrees N. Lat. and between 103 and 104 degrees E. Long. It has an area of two hundred and seventy square miles; its greatest length being about twenty-seven miles from east to west, and its greatest breadth fifteen. It is still generally covered with jungle, being at the same time low and marshy: yet the town has proved healthy. The thermometer ranges from 71 to 89 degrees. The settlement was finally ceded to the British in 1825, by the Dutch, and by the Malay Princes of the opposite coast of the Peninsula.

When the settlement was formed, in 1818, there were only 150 Malay fishermen on the island. By the census of 1833 the population had then amounted

• Fortieth Report of the London Missionary Society.

to 20,917: the Europeans being 119, the IndoBritons 96, the Malays 7131, the Chinese 8517 (of which the males were 7650, the females 867), and the remainder were Armenians, Arabs, Hindoos, Bugis, Javanese, &c. &c. The town consists generally of stone houses, two stories high. ' On the east side of the harbour, enterprising British merchants are erecting substantial and ornamental houses fronting the sea. The ground is generally raised three feet; and the mansions have a superb entrance, by an ascent of granite stairs; then an elegant portico, supported by magnificent Grecian columns : the rooms are lofty, with Venetian windows down to the floor, and furnished in a luxurious manner; each tenement provided with its baths, billiard-tables, &c.; while the grounds are tastily laid out with shrubs of beautiful foliage."

The leading merchants, agents, shopkeepers, and auctioneers, are Englishmen. There are several wealthy Chinese merchants; and the bulk of the shopkeepers, and the most valuable part of the citizens, are Chinese, nearly 5000 of whom arrive annually from China by the yearly trading j unks. About 1000 remain at Singapore, and the remainder disperse themselves over the neighbouring islandsf. Besides these junks from China, about twenty-six Chinese junks come from Cochin-China, Cambodjia, and

• Martin, vol i. p. 427, &c. + Ibid. p. 432.

Hainan*. From May 1830 to May 1831, thirty-six others entered the port from Siamf. Indeed, Singapore is the emporium of a trade with the whole Eastern Archipelago. At one part of the year, a hundred and forty native vessels have been observed to come in monthly from forty difterentports of Borneo, Celebes, the Moluccas, Sumatra, China, CochinChina, Siam, and Malayala J. Altogether, the settlement exports goods to the amount of 3,000,000/. sterling §.

There is a mission chapel and printing press. An immense distribution has been made of Christian books, both among the heathen population of the settlement and among the Chinese sailors, who receive them eagerly. In 1832 there were three Chinese schools—two for boys, who were taught in the Canton and Fuhkeen dialects; and one for girls. This last was then under the superintendence of Miss Martyn; but as that lady has since married, the native female schools are now without a superintendant. The mission has suffered much by the sickness of the

• Martin, vol.i. p. 439. The island of Hainan, which must not be confounded with Ilainam, a small island in the Canton River (mentioned at p. 70 of this journal), invites the serious attention of Missionary Societies. The inhabitants, who are chiefly descended from Fuhkien emigrants, are cheerful, kind, friendly, clean, and industrious. Mr. Gutzlaff saw many of them at Bankok : they willingly conversed upon the subject of religion, eagerly read the Christian books which he gave them, -and some of them invited him to visit their country.— Gutzlaff's Voyages, pp. 82 83.

• Martin, vol.i.p. 436. j Missionary Register, Feb. 1835, p. 95. § Martin, vol. i p. 440.

missionaries; and the labours of the present missionary, Mr. Thomsen, were, at the time of the last report, much restricted by debility *.

Siam.—The kingdom of Siam is an important sphere for missionary labour, not merely from the amount of its population, but also from its extensive intercourse with China. This empire has 2,790,500 inhabitants of different nations, of which 401,300 form the population of Bankok, the capital f. The Singapore Chronicle thus describes the capacities of the country:—" The tea-tree grows as luxuriantly here as in China. The silk-worm, too, abounds— also the mulberry-tree—all wild.... In this country there must be mines of silver and gold; of silver, it is evident, for several told us that in the rainy season, when the ground is drenched, pieces of silver are found as large as a tickal. Indigo, too, is luxuriant; so also is the coffee plant. The fruits all grow wild; still they are much finer and more numerous than I have met with elsewhere.... Of the mangoes there are thirty species, most delicious. Several species of the mangosteen, oranges, &c. abound—all wild. In fact, this exuberant country, in the hands of Europeans, might become a perfect Paradise, and a mart for half the world. Cotton is plentiful, and as fine as silk; it is short, but it is wild The country is quiet, the

• Fortieth Report of the London Missionary Society.

t Preface to Gutzlaff's Voyages, pp. xi. xii.

productions are abundant, and the river at Bankok crowded with Chinese junks*." Hence it has attracted many Chinese settlers. Of the 401,300 inhabitants of Bankok, 310,000 are Chinese, 50,000 more are of Chinese origin; and about eighty junks arrive annually from the different ports of Chinas.

In August 1828 Mr. Gutzlaff first visited that capital, and staid there for some months. In the beginning of 1830 he paid it a second missionary visit. There, in February 1831; Mrs. Gutzlaff was called to her eternal home, but not before she had prepared for the press a dictionary of the Annam language, a Chinese tract, and an English and Chinese dictionary. Meanwhile Mr. Gutzlaff had compiled an English and Siamese dictionary, and had translated the New Testament into Siamese. This work, which is read with ease, and understood by natives of all ranks, is now printing at Malacca J.

Since Mr. Abeel's departure from Bankok, the American Board of Missions have appointed Messrs. Robinson and Johnson, with Dr. Bradley, M.D., missionaries to that place. These gentlemen reached Singapore in the autumn of 1833, and entered on the study of the Chinese language §. Miss Wallace also has consented to undertake the superintendence of the female schools of the Siamese mission.

• Martin, vol. i. p. 436. f Preface to Gutzlaff's Voyages, p. xi. X Missionary Register, Feb. 1835, p. 90. § Ibid. p. 95.

From these slight notices it may sufficiently appear

that in each of these places there is enough for the missionary to do. But these are not the only settlements of the Chinese in the Eastern Archipelago. By the last census, in 1825, which is with good reason thought rather to underrate the amount of the population, China Proper, exclusive of Tartary and of the colonies, is said to contain 352,866,012 inhabitants *. This number gives a population of 288 to the square mile; rather more crowded than that of England, and rather less so than that of Ireland; the former being 257 to the square mile, and the latter 292. Hence the emigration from China, as from England and Ireland, is very considerable. Thousands annually leave the maritime provinces, Canton, Fuhkeen, Chekeang, and Keangnan, to settle in the Archipelago; and the colonial settlers are already numerous : Mr. Crawford, the late Resident atSingapore, has estimated the numbers to be as follows

Philippine Islands 15,000 Penang 8,500 Borneo 120,000 Malayala 40,000 Java 45,000 Siam 440,000 Rhio 18,000 Cochin-China. 15,000 Singapore 6,200 Tonquin 25,000 Malacca 2,000 Total 734,700s

Many of these colonists return to China %—whence it appears, that, should any of them be brought to the knowledge of Christ, they may become missionaries

• Martin, vol. i. p. 447. t Ibid. p. 450.

tIbidto their own country; and thus China may be indirectly evangelized, even though foreigners should continue to be rigidly excluded from her shores. The Missionary Leang Asa received the knowledge of the truth while resident at Malacca.

Mr. Abeel, however, in this work, expresses an opinion that China itself may be entered by European missionaries. Mr. Gutzlaff has certainly spent whole months in the maritime provinces of that empire, making long excursions among the villages, freely conversing with the people, and distributing thousands of Christian books to persons eager to receive and read them. He is persuaded that other missionaries might do the same. And while he is himself meditating a journey "through the whole of Central China, up to Thibet and Bengal," he says that another German, who has joined the Chinese mission, may possibly settle in one of the northern provinces *. That which has apparently most contributed, under God, to his success hitherto, has been his perfect acquaintance with different dialects of the Chinese language, his familiarity with their most esteemed classical authors, and his knowledge of medicine. Any one possessed of these qualifications, with equal faith and equal kindness, might in all probability safely follow his steps.

May God, in mercy to that empire, raise up suitable agents for this great work ! And, if we may judge by

• Missionary Register, Feb. 1835, pp. 86, 87.

the repeated experience of Mr. Gutzlaff along the whole Chinese coast, they may make the medical dispensary a better protection than the presence of a British seventy-four, and the affections of the people will be more than a substitute for the patronage of the Emperor. How much, apparently, of the future welfare of China, depends upon a few Christian men being now found, who, uniting capacity, courage, and devoted zeal, with prudence and gentleness, may perseveringly attempt to plant missions along her coasts. May the " Lord of the harvest send forth labourers into his harvest"—constrain the despotic rulers of the land to favour them—and, beyond all our anticipations, guide that immense people to the saving knowledge of the Lord Jesus Christ!

CONTENTS.

PREFACE page xxix

CHAP. I.—Departure from New-York.Divine service on

board.Island of St. Paul.. Amsterdam. Sandal-wood

Island. Ombay Passage.. Islands of Flores,Solor, Lomblem,

Ombay, Timor, Cambing, Baby.. Early Roman Catholic

missions on these islands. Portuguese Xavier.. Dutch con quests.Dutch missions.. Zeal ofthe early missionaries..

Declension during the eighteenth century.. Present missions

of the Dutch on Timor, Rotti, Letty, Moa, Kesser, and

Roma.. Banda Sea and Islands.Arroo group. Booro. {empty}.Am boyna : Mr. Kam. Manippa. Ceram.Ternati. Efforts of

the Netherlands Missionary Society. New Guinea. Waijoo

{empty}. Plans for the conversion of these islands. Pelew Islands

and natives 1

CHAP.II.—Chinese fishing boats.Formosa. Ladrone Islands

{empty}. Chinese pilots.Lintin. Opium-trade.. Macao.. Descrip tion and history of the city.Catholicism.. Superstitions.

Passage in small Chinese boat to Whampoa.Foreign ship ping. Objects on the way. Night scene. Arrival at Canton

{empty}. Dr. Morrison ' 29

CHAP. III.—Description of Canton and its vicinity.. Religions

of China. Appearance of the women.Beggars.Foreign

factories. Open space before them.. Possibility of intercourse

with the people. Appearance of the river. Crowds of boats

. Island of Hainam.Chinese temple.Chinese merchants.. Mode of speaking English.Appearance and dress ofthe

men and women page 47

CHAP. IV.—Worship in English.. Ah-see.. Monthly prayer

meeting.. Preaching at Whampoa.Whampoa Island..

French ditto.. Danes ditto.. Processions, burial, hymeneal,

and religious.. LeangAfa.. Drama.. Watune's-day. Macao

{empty}..Procession..Return to Canton.Houses of the Hong merchants.. Illuminated boats.. Festivals and ceremonies.. God of fire.. Decorations of the streets.. Ballad singing. 77

CHAP. V.—Female infanticide.. Condition of the women..

Cruel punishments.. Number and condition of prisoners.. 108

CHAP. VI.—Missionary labours at Canton and Whampoa..

Appeal in behalf of China.What ought to be done 114

CHAP. VII.—Passage to Java.. Mode of dealing with sailors

{empty}.American sailor.Impropriety of sending boys to sea..

Cochin-China.. Sumatra 122

CHAP. VIII.—Angier.. Journey to Batavia.. Travelling..

Wildness of the country.Large estate.Batavia.Mr.

Medhurst.. Java as a missionary field.Population..

Language.. Chief towns.The missionary's daily labours..

Chinese. Hospital.. Market-places. Prison. Chinese

new-year.. Popular deities.Infanticide in China.Visit to a bazaar in the country to distribute tracts.. Interview with Cochin-Chinese.. Catholicism in Cochin-China.. Tour to another market-place.Protestant Portuguese settlement.. Service in the Dutch church.. Chinese sacrifice at the graves of their relatives.. Chinese ceremony of passing through fire.. Mission schools.. Malayan ditto.. Visit to Bitenzorg, the residence of the Governor, and labours there.. Remarks on Java j3j

CHAP. IX.—Passage to Singapore Sumatra. Different

states. Customs. Religion Singapore. Missionaries.

Passage to Siam in company with Mr. Tomlin.Arab ship

{empty}..Conduct of Mahommedan sailors.Coast of Malayan

Peninsula. Passage up the Meinam.Appearance of the

Siamese. Bankok. Disappointment in not meeting Mr.

Gutzlaff. Portuguese consul. R. Hunter, Esq pu«e 169

CHAP. X.—Description of Siam. City of Bankok.. Variety

of inhabitants. Enslaved condition of multitudes.Their

misery and vice. Religion of Budh. Priests.. Religion of

the Chinese, Burmese, Peguins, Malays, Portuguese.. First

Protestant missionaries.. Visit to Pra Kiang. Missionary

houses. Medical depository Native simplicity Visit

from the Princes. Interesting interview with a priest..

Other priests. Cambodjian prince. Cambodjia as mis sionary ground Sacred month. Illuminations. King's

visit to the temples.. Splendid procession of barges. Over flow of the Meinam. Affecting case of a Chinese youth.

Sabbath worshippers. Heathen cruelty.. Successful labours

{empty}. Beauty of the heavens. Funeral array.. Splendid tem ples and idols.. Close of first visit to Siam.Caution to

readers of missionary journals 18-1

CHAP. XI.—Passage to Singapore.. Mr.Thomsen.. Descrip tion of Singapore. Importance as a mission station..

Printing.. Schools.. Visit along the coast.. Passage to Ma lacca.. Town of Malacca.Anglo-Chinese college. {empty}.Mis sionaries Schools Resident.. Return to Singapore.

Embarkation for Siam.. Chinese junk. Straitened apart ments. Dull passage. Sailors. Idolatry. Efforts to restrain

them.Tringano.Squall.Loss of Chinese vessels. {empty}.De graded inhabitants of the Malayan Peninsula.Arrival.

Ignorance of the heathen. Custom-house officers 236

CHAP. XII.—General view of second visit to Siam.{empty}.Supa

plying Chinesejunks with books.. Missionary labours.. Little congregation. Medical practice.. Conduct of servant. Convert of Mr. Gutzlaff.Sacred season. Prince Chaw Fah.Arrangement with the Prince.. Swimming child.. Malayan captives.. Mode of preserving the dead. Superstition respecting evil spirits, &c.. Interesting priest. Most common languages of Siam.Chinese languages. Mode of studying.. Last Sabbath service.. Appointment of expounder {empty}.Baptism of some since.Juthia. Chantibun P"ge

CHAP. XIII.—Passage to Singapore.Visit to Rhio. {empty}.De scription of Rhio. Death and character of Rev. R. Burn.

Labours at Singapore. Illness. Changes at Singapore..

Embarkation for England 292

CHAP. XIV Borneo.Foreign settlers.Aborigines called

Dyaks.. Degradation and cruelty. Their passion for human

heads.Their religion. Language. Brutal condition of

the northern tribes. Borneo as missionary ground. Dutch

station. Trade 303

CHAP. XV.—Celebes.Languages.Religion. Mandhaar

{empty}. Mode of life. Mamoodjoo. Rajahs. Pirates. Mission ary station under the Netherlands Society. Island of Sooloo

CHAP. XVI.—Philippine Islands. Mindano.. Palawan.

Spanish possessions. Extent.. Value.. Inhabitants.Influence of Romish priests. Superstitions 321

CHAP. XVII.—Loo Choo Islands.Number.Size.Scenery

{empty}.. Interesting inhabitants. Laws. Language. Religion

Mr. GutzIafTs visit. Importance of having missionary ships

CHAP. XVIII. — Japan. Description.Towns.Laws..

Language.Religions.Labours ofthe Jesuits. Visits of

trading vessels. Means of benefiting the nation, 337

CHAP XIX—Conclusion.Talententrusted to Christians..

United and more vigorous efforts necessary. Address to

Ministers on behalf of missions.Zeal of the Jesuits.To

Students of Theology.. Importance of sending out colonies

{empty}.. Address to Physicians; to pious Merchants; to Ladies;

to Persons of Wealth; to all classes.. Necessity of the co operation of those at home; of Mothers; of Teachers,page 346

CHAP. XX.—Voyage to Europe.Description of St.Helena

{empty}.Buonaparte's tomb. Longwood. Arrival in England..

Visit to the Continent

362

PREFACE BY THE AUTHOR.

The writer of the following pages went to Canton under the auspices of the American Seaman's Friend Society, to act as Chaplain to seamen and foreign residents speaking the English language. He took with him aconditional appointment from the American Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions, in case he should consider it his duty to devote himself exclusively to the Heathen. At the expiration of the first year he left China on a tour to some of the islands and continental kingdoms of South-eastern Asia, with the double purpose of ascertaining the most important posts for Missions, and of rendering himself useful in that station which presented the strongest claims upon his services.

As the object of this volume is to inform the Christian AVorld of the state of these Heathen countries, the writer has extended his observations much beyond the limits of his travels, and has drawn from every open and uncorrupted source the information required for his purpose. What he has seen,

and heard, and read, as far as the testimony appeared credible, has been freely appropriated. A considerable portion of what is stated has been derived from the experience and observation of his fellow-missionaries resident at the places which he visited. Of them he has said as little as possible; both because their names are too few not to be known, and because it is doubtful whether any eulogies from one of their number would be of advantage to themselves, or to the cause in which they are engaged. The same silence has been preserved with respect to many families and individuals from whom much kindness was received, and for whom the highest regard is cherished.

An interruption of the narrative of events to insert what appeared worthy of remark, as well as an introduction of facts the knowledge of which was in a few instances gained after the date under which they are recorded, with other discrepancies of the same kind, would not deserve notice, were it not that they might be thought to derogate from the correctness of the observations. It is to be regretted, that many subjects of the greatest interest have been either omitted or passed over with a few unsatisfactory remarks, while others of far less importance have been inserted in their place. The omission was unavoidable, owing to a dearth of information on these points: the less important observations were substituted, in the hope that they may at least have the

effect of drawing attention to these neglected regions, and thus lead to measures for their further investigation and spiritual benefit.

As many deficiencies will be detected in the style of this work, the writer must state, as an apology, that it was written under considerable disadvantages of. circumstances and bodily health, and that the greater part of it he had neither strength nor leisure to revise.

CHAPTER I.

PASSAGE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO.

On Wednesday the 14th of October, 1829, the Rev. {empty}E. C. Bridgman and myself bade farewell to our friends and country, and embarked in the ship Roman, Capt. Lavender, for Canton, China. The tedium of the voyage was greatly relieved by the society of four fellow-passengers, citizens of New-York. Owing to calms, and a strong opposing current, we were detained two days within sight of the city.

Early on Friday morning we left our anchorage, and, with a light though favourable breeze, stood to sea. The wind freshened as we advanced, and, between eight and nine o'clock, the return of the pilot presented the last opportunity of communicating with the shore.

During the greater part of the passage nothing occurred which is not generally witnessed, and has not been frequently detailed. Divine service was established, from the first, on the morning and afternoon of the Lord's-day, and social worship every evening at the change of the watch. As no com es o pulsory measures were employed to gain the attendW B

ance of the crew, composed of a heterogeneous company, the number of worshippers varied with their fickle inclinations. Nothing proved so effectual in bringing them together, as frequent visits to the forecastle, and more private interviews with them, when disengaged, in their night-watch upon deck.

Nearly three months elapsed on our passage before we enjoyed a sight of land. The first stable object p,vhich changed for a moment our wearisome prospect, was the small island of St. Paul. It is remarkable for a pond, which furnishes to the voyager a well-stored larder, and a self-cooking kitchen. Fish of all kinds, which are taken in abundance, may be thrown from the hook into boiling springs, and thus prepared for the table without trouble or expense. The immense distance of this rocky islet, and its sister Amsterdam, from any continent, is another peculiarity.

On the 25th of January, Sandal-wood Island, the first land made in the Eastern passage, was descried. Before tlie island appeared, its proximity was indicated by large land birds, resembling* eagles, majestically sailing in the air above us; and butterflies, or winged grasshoppers, which, borne on the breeze, came and lighted upon the ship. The island is extensive, and produces many valuable articles, though very little is known of the physical, political, or moral condition of its inhabitants. No attempts have been made by Protestant Christians for its

conversion; none to discover whether, with its populous neighbours, it is not waiting for God's law.

That the feasibility of establishing missions upon some, or all, of these islands, might be readily tested, is evident to those who have sailed almost within hail of their shores, and whose timidity, or want of zeal, does not controul a laudable spirit of Christian enterprize. Our course was through the Ombay passage, and afforded a view of the islands of Flores, Solor, Lomblem, Pantar, and Ombay, on the left; and of Timor, Cambing, Baby, and probably Wetter, on the right. As may be readily supposed, the greater part of our time was spent in feasting our eyes upon the cheering and changing aspects of land, and in suffering our imagination to expatiate where it would be more interesting, but perhaps more hazardous, to roam in person. Since it was not our object to land, we were by no means grieved to enjoy the coolness and impetus of a fresh breeze, and soon to leave these smiling spots to charm the hearts and eyes of our successors. Numerous huts were distinguished on the hills of many of these islands. One of our passengers, on a previous voyage, was becalmed for a day and a night within a short distance of Ombay. In addition to the dwellings he could discern by day, fires, probably for cooking, were lighted in the evening, which, bespangling the shores and hills of this and the adjacent islands, indicated a considerable population.

b 2

How far the Roman Catholics succeeded in their early attempts to diffuse their faith through this part of the Archipelago, or to what extent the trophies of their ancient zeal may still exist, where commerce has ceased to allure the European trader, it is quite impossible to determine.

The Portuguese were probably the first who attempted the conversion of these islands to nominal Christianity. They took possession of the colonies as early as 1510, or soon after, and commenced at the same time their religious operations; but there is reason to believe, from authentic records and existing facts, that their success was by no means answerable to the latitude of faith and practice generally admitted by their proselyting policy. Before the middle of the sixteenth century, the celebrated Xavier and his coadjutors arrived in these regions, and displayed (according to the Saint's biographer) those wonders of super-human wisdom and power by whicii thousands were forthwith converted to the true faith. Near the close of the century, the Dutch dispossessed the Portuguese, and soon afterwards introduced Protestantism among the natives.

It is said that "one principal purpose of the formation of the Dutch East-India Company, was the propagation of Christianity in those countries whicii should come under their dominion." Had this purpose actuated the foreign agents of the Company, and all the early chaplains ofthe establishment as it

did many of them, the genuine conversion of these lovely and populous islands had probably been the result. The natives were not only willing, but desirous, to become acquainted with the religion professed by the Dutch. They even requested teachers; and, when their request was complied with, submitted to their instructions with the greatest docility and confidence.

In looking over the records of these times, we are struck with a number of rather opposing facts and scarcely know whether to give way to our feelings of admiration for the Zealand energy of some of the first chaplains, or of deep regret for their injudicious plans, and the comparative fruitlessness of their vast labours. They studied and wrote, they travelled and preached, they founded churches and opened schools. Such were the variety and multiplicity of their measures, such the magnitude and success of their efforts, that, according to their reports, the devils—the only acknowledged deities of these regions—soon found their temples deserted, their rights neglected, and whole villages and islands alienated from their alleoiance. At the close of the seventeenth century forty thousand natives had enrolled themselves among the disciples of the Saviour. But here vve are compelled to check our admiration, by a knowledge of the result. A declension soon commenced,

• I have not been able to ascertain the population ofthe islands at this time.

and continued with such rapidity, that whole districts speedily relapsed into their former abominations. The causes of this decline—or rather of the apparent conversion of such numbers, who afterwards apostatized—are various. Many of the chaplains were opposed, in spirit and conduct, to their worthy coadjutors; too much stress was laid upon a knowledge of the technicalities, or a compliance with the formalities, of Christianity, too little upon the renovation ofthe heart; professing Christians were preferred to their heathen neighbours in the distribution of petty offices under Government, and even a monthly allowance of rice was served out to those, and those only, who had received the rite of baptism.

During the eighteenth century we read of very few attempts to revive the spirit of Christianity, or even to preserve from extinction " that which remained, and was ready to die." Many ofthe schools were kept up, and other means, previously established, continued; but the labour devolved chiefly upon the natives, and their qualifications were inadequate to the work; the churches at home were in a languishing state, and the few messengers sent out took little or no interest in the instruction of the heathen. To determine what amount of good was really effected by these early missionary efforts, requires a new series of data, different alike from the contradictory reports of the times, and the opposing sentiments of later commentators. That many were translated out of

darkness into light, who will refuse to believe? that thousands were self-deluded, or deceived, who can deny ? When we consider what evidently might have been effected; and what was, no doubt, the aim of the devoted men of whom we have spoken; we are grieved at the consequences. For more than two hundred years this desert might have bloomed like the garden of the Lord, and loaded with its fragrance every breeze which refreshes the vast continent and islands of south-eastern Asia.

These few historical facts bring us down to our own times, and may prepare the way for the following remarks upon the missions ofthe present day, in the different islands that lay on our course.

The large island of Timor was one of those included within our view, while passing through the Ombay passage. Its forest trees, crowning a majestic bank which skirted the sea, waved us a graceful invitation to their cooling shades—perhaps to the relief of the crowds who perish beneath them. Timor is one of the most extensive and important islands in these seas. According to the accounts of travellers, a number of independent and unsocial tribes roam through its deep interior, who have so little mutual intercourse, that no less than forty languages are spoken among them. There are two foreign establishments upon the island, the one occupied by the Portuguese, the other by the Dutch. The former is called Delli, or Didil, and is situated on the

northeast part of the island. Of its commercial importance we know but little. More than three centuries have elapsed since the Roman Catholic religion was introduced here; and although the Portuguese colonists and their numerous priests have generally given it currency in other parts of the East, where they have preserved a footing, yet Timor has received but little attention at their hands. One evident reason, according to a witness of their own nation and religion, is, because the priests are a worldlyminded and ungodly set of men. The greater part of the day they employ in looking after their speculations in sandal-wood, wax, gold, copper, and the very heathen themselves, whom they export, and sell as slaves. This, however, is but a part of their unchristian conduct.

" By night they practise every sin, By day their hands draw nigh to God."

The most disgraceful ecclesiastics in Macao are generally selected for Timor; and cases have occurred in which lawless offenders of this class, with whom nothing could be done, have had other punishment mitigated into missionary banishment to this ill-fated island. If this be the case—and there is no reason to doubt the authority upon which it is given— we see sufficient reason why the petty chiefs who have embraced Catholicism, according to travellers, still retain their heathen customs, and practise the grossest immoralities.

Coopang, the Dutch settlement, stands on the south-west end of the island. There, Dutch missionaries once exerted themselves with vigour, and apparent success. During the eighteenth century no labourers were sent out, and many baptized Christians abandoned even the name of Christ, and reverted to their favourite demon worship. In the year 1821 the first messenger, under the new era of Christian missions, resumed the long-suspended duties ofa Gospel minister in the place. This missionary, by name Le Brun, was an excellent character, but was spared only long enough to prepare himself for usefulness in his new sphere : others succeeded him, and carried on the duties of the station with visible success. It is a common complaint, in the correspondence of the missionaries, that multitudes who have been received into the Christian church —probably descendants of the early converts—have never renounced their idolatrous habits. The unchristianized natives they describe as slothful, apathetic, untrained to reflection, living and dying like the brutes around them. They have no established forms of religion, but dread the power and deprecate the fury of infernal spirits. This refers only to the tribes in the vicinity of the settlement, where the Malayan language forms an admixture with their native tongues. As has been mentioned, those in the interior speak a number of languages, very distinct from the Malay, and live in the wildest state. I am not able to learn

b 5

that any attempts have ever been made for their conversion *.

A number of smaller islands in the surroundingseas are occupied by the missionaries of the Netherlands Society; among these isRotti, situated a short distance south of Timor. In 1820 there were three churches completed, and others in progress, on this limited spot. Three hundred and sixty children were enjoying regular instruction, all of them the descendants of nominal Christians. The aboriginal inhabitants are more energetic in mind and body than the Malays, and the island yields a rich supply of rice and palm sugar -j*.

East and north-east of Timor, one or two degrees distant from it and from each other, are the small islands of Letty, Moa, Kisser, and Roma. Each of them is a mission station, occupied by one or more missionaries. Some of them abound with inhabitants, who have a language of their own, and whose customs are entirely repugnantto the principles of Christianity, which many profess. The instructions of themis

• At the close of 1831, the Dutch reports give an aggregate of several thousands of Christians upon the island. Whether they include those whose heathen customs the missionaries deplore, we know not. In 1832, six missionaries arrived in the East; four of whom went to an institution upon Timor, designed for fitting European and native Christians for their work. One of them was appointed to the chaplaincy ofthe Company: the others, it is hoped, will penetrate beyond the maritime pails which have already been explored.

f Of the recent reinforcements to these islands, one or two missionaries have instructions to occupy Rotti.

sionaries are generally conveyed through the Malayan language, which, it is said, they are striving to make the universal medium of intercourse. If it can be accomplished without sacrificing the eternal interests of the present generation, the object is worthy of their strenuous efforts: it is calculated to cherish a spirit of mutual benevolence among the natives, and it will yield the greatest facility of labour to all succeeding missionaries. One or two of them have acquired the native speech; but, thus far, no translations have been made—at least no books published. A missionary, who visited the island of Letty in 1825, reports that he found the schoolmaster efficiently engaged in his duties, and that he baptized many, especially in one district. A successor, who arrived at the island in 1829, states that numbers of baptized Christians were both ignorant and addicted to all the vices of Paganism, That the same system, of gathering multitudes indiscriminately into the visible church, should be practised by some of the modern missionaries, is a source of lamentation to their more judicious brethren, and to all who take an interest in their labours. The result is, as might be expected, some " weary themselves for very vanity," and others are obliged to " labour in the very fire," most inconsiderately kindled against them.

At Wetter, which has been mentioned as included within our prospect, the heathen are represented as favourable to Christianity. The missionary who visited

them in 1825, baptized numbers, and united many in Christian marriage. This island had formerly been under the care of the chaplains, but for the last forty years Christian instruction had been almost entirely suspended. The consequences need not be detailed, when it is considered that little more than the name and rites of Christianity constituted the sum oftheir early knowledge.

After leaving the Ombay Passage, our course lay through the Banda Sea, which takes its name from a small group of islands situated two and a half degrees east of our track. Here the Dutch have a missionary, who, under date of 1824, reports that he had been visiting those who professed Christianity, from house to house. He was shocked at their ignorance and heathenism: barring the difference of name, they could not be distinguished from the Mahommedans and heathen around them. The drums of the soothsayers made a deeper impression upon them, than all the truths of the Gospel.

Such was the depravity of the great mass of adults, and such the example by which their children were seduced into all kinds of wickedness, that the missionary was constrained, under the deep emotions of his soul, to exclaim, "Rivers of waters run down mine eyes, because they keep not thy law." Still, a few facts of some promise were noticed : there were those who could, and did, read the Bible; the schools, though languishing, were not closed; and a

sew of the converts maintained a character worthy of the religion they professed.

In former days there were congregations upon a number of these islands, but the blight of death has passed over them.

At Great Banda there are twenty-four plantations, managed by as many native planters who bear the name of Christ.

Still farther to the east, in nearly a south-east direction from Banda, is a chain of islets, called by the Dutch **'the Keys," which extend to the Arroo group of the charts. The former are described as fertile spots, producing a variety of fruits, and peopled by a race of men who have ever shewn a peculiar mildness of disposition and hospitality towards Europeans. Whether this benevolence is a genuine expression of the soul, or assumed from motives of policy, has not been ascertained. The only ground of suspicion is their physical weakness, and destitution or paucity of arms.

The Arroo islands are extremely valuable, ancl are said to contain a population of about twenty thousand; they abound in all the delicious fruits of the Moluccas, and swarm with poultry, and birds of the richest, rarest plumage. They contain a small band of professing Christians, a great many Mahommedans, and a still greater number of heathen. From the reports of the missionaries in their vicinity, these islands hold out the most inspiriting invitation to the

servants of Christ: the field is large, and numbers would find delightful employment iu its culture. One relative advantage, of the highest importance, is the proximity of these islands to New Guinea, with whose shores there is, no doubt, a constant intercourse, and whose degraded millions might be approached through this point of access.

Contrary winds and a temporary calm detained us for two or three days in the Banda Sea.

On the 28th of January the large island of Booro was descried, and the next morning we found ourselves passing at the distance of a few miles from its south-eastern shore. Besides its other valuable productions, this island is the genial soil of the cajeput tree, whose well-known oil is a principal article of export. It is virtually under the dominion of the Dutch, though, with the exception of a foreign Resident, the inhabitants are governed by their own Rajahs. The king of the country, and nine subordinate chiefs, by whom he is assisted in judicial matters, are Mahommedans. The inhabitants, whom the Dutch call Alfories, have not submitted to the yoke of Islamism, and, it is said, are not allowed to embrace Christianity. Still the place is not entirely destitute of Christian instruction. A missionary is stationed here, who, under date of 1825, writes that the island is divided into ten districts, and that there were about ninety Christians, and one hundred and forty, including children, who had been baptized.

The state of religion among these few, differs in DO ' no respects from the corruption prevailing in the other islands. The judgments of God, in those sweepingscourges, cholera and famine, it is reported, produced considerable effect upon their fears, and brought them for a time to a better state of mind.

The aborigines are characterized by gentleness and timidity. Idleness, opium, smoking, and drunkenness, are their reigning vices; dancing, their popular amusement.

After leaving the Banda Sea, we passed through the Straits of Manippa, which brought within our horizon a number of important islands. Amboyna, the principal one, is distinguished, among all the spice settlements under European controul, for the extent and beauty of its capital, the strength of its fortifications, and the proportionately large number of its professing Christians. It contains a population of between forty and fifty thousand. Mr. Kam, the first missionary of the new era, who arrived in 1815, reports that he found twenty thousand native Christians, prepared, by his predecessors, for attending the ordinances of the Gospel. The nature of this preparation is not stated, though the missionary probably includes all who had been received into the visible church by its initiatory rite, with their descendants. He found many districts, whose inhabitants were formerly Christian, relapsed into Paganism. A terrifying earthquake frightened some of them back into the profession which they

had abandoned. Mr. Kam commenced his labours, here and in the neighbouring islands, with much zeal and energy. Prompted by a spirit which every missionary should possess, he looked upon himself as a " debtor to all;" and consequently entered into every sphere where he thought his services might be useful. Much of his time was devoted to a visitation of those islands where churches had been planted,'or where there was an opening for the' introduction of the Gospel. His journals shew an entire devotedness to his Saviour's cause; though, from the many thousands he baptized in his extensive and repeated circuits, we cannot but fear that his views on this subject were not the most judicious.

Two institutions were established at Amboyna for the preparation of schoolmasters : one under a committee of government officers, including the missionary, who is the appointed chaplain; the other under the sole direction of Mr. Kam, and designed to prepare young men for less prominent, though equally destitute, stations. These institutions, and especially the latter, have been successful in their operations. Other means have been employed for the conversion of the heathen, with much visible effect.

At Manippa, through the Straits of which we sailed, there are many Mussulmans, and a few Christians. The missionaries report that two villages had cast away their idols, and embraced Christianity.

We had the large and beautiful island of Ceram in sight for a long time. Its lively verdure, its towering mountains, its irregular and variegated surface, and especially the history associated with it, tended to render it an object of most interesting contemplation. Travellers speak of some of its scenery as enchanting. The missionaries describe it as exceedingly fertile. The sago finds no soil so congenial to its perfection, as the well-saturated bogs of Ceram. This valuable tree grows wild, not merely in scattered clumps, but in deep forests; supplying its indolent tribes with abundant provision, and considerable wealth. The waters teem with a variety of the finest fish. So that it has been said of the natives of this island, as of the birds of the air, " They neither sow, nor reap, nor gather into barns." The inhabitants of the sea-coast are principally Malays; in the inland districts, the Alfories, or aborigines, abound. The shocking Diak custom, of destroying human life by arts the most treacherous and dishonourable, without provocation, and merely to add human heads to the trophies of their cruelty, is common to this island, to Borneo, and to Celebes. Demon worship is the prevailing superstition; and the infernal rites and horrid imprecations employed in binding themselves to a voluntary and perpetual slavery to the " rulers of darkness," breathe the very spirit of hell.

When Mr. Kam visited this island, after his arrival in these seas, he found that there had been no stated

preacher for the last twenty years. He passed through twelve districts, preaching, and administering the sacraments pf the Gospel. After his return he received intelligence that two villages had demolished their temples. But, alas ! numbers of these stony-ground hearers soon began to decline : so that the missionary felt himself obliged to make them another visit. In some districts religious exhortations had no effect. Many of the Christians did not even believe in a future state of existence.

At Kaibobo, in Ceram, a missionary is stationed. He gives no favourable account of the progress of the children in the schools, nor of the good example and discipline of their parents at home. In a report of Mr. Kam for 1827, he speaks of more than six thousand church members, and upwards of two thousand children under instruction*.

With the exception of Ternati, one of the Moluccas, situated not far from the north coast of Gilolo, we have gone over the principal stations under the Netherlands Missionary Society in this part of the Archipelago.

Ternati, though small, has long maintained an importance above its neighbours. Its sultan has acquired the sovereignty of many ofthe adjacent islands, having extended his dominions to part of Celebes, and

• The discrepancy in these two statements may be easily reconciled; though we fear that the ldast gratifying account is the most correct.

even to New Guinea. The missionary here has been taken into the service of the government; and though a man of excellent character, is said to be too sickly to fulfil his duties among Christians, and, of course, unable to attempt much for the heathen. The situation is, probably, one of the most important for a missionary colony in these seas.

Before we turn our backs upon the numerous stations occupied by the Netherlands Society, and open to their future exertions, a few facts merit our attention. The extent of many of these islands, the number oftheir inhabitants, their proximity to others still more extensive and populous, render them highly important for missionary establishments; while the liberty enjoyed by Europeans, of visiting the coast and traversing the interior of most of them, added to the readiness with which the natives generally listen to their instructions, and conform, by thousands, to the external rites of Christianity, enhance their interest, and give them a bold prominence among the most inviting and promising spheres of Christian exertion.

To those acquainted with the history of these missions, it may be thought strange that we do not dwell more in detail upon the numbers who have, at different times, renounced idolatry, and professed the religion of Christ. Our only reason is, because the qualifications for baptism, required by many of the missionaries, differ so essentially from the views entertained by the majority of those who will probably

read this work, that numbers would convey no correct idea of the success of their labours. In islands, and districts of islands, occasionally visited by the missionaries, we read of their preaching a few times, performing the ceremony of marriage, baptizing crowds of adults as well as children, and administering the sacrament of the Lord's Supper. If these places were all supplied with native teachers in whose piety and judgment entire confidence could be placed, our wonder at this hasty mode of procedure would cease : but when we learn, from their own accounts, that apostasy is very common, and that villages and whole districts frequently fall back into their former abominations, we must conclude, either that the native teachers are unqualified for their duties, or disproportioned in numbers to their stations; or, that those admitted to the ordinances of the church are received on other grounds than that repentance and faith which the Scriptures enjoin.

It is not intended to assert that this course of proceeding is approved of by all the present missionaries; neither is it certain that it is pursued by the majority. A very few labourers of incorrect sentiments respecting the proper subjects of the sacraments, are quite sufficient to produce all the consequences we here deplore.

One fact, which strikes us powerfully, and which may tend to explain, in a measure, what we cannot approve of, is the paucity of labourers. Compared

with most other societies, the one whose field and operations we have been considering has done nobly; but their hands are too feeble for the immense work to be performed. Hundreds should be sent forth; and hundreds would, no doubt, find employment of the most delightful kind.

After leaving the Straits of Manippa, our course was nearly north-east, through Dampier Straits, into the Pacific. A multitude of islands, of rather inconsiderable note, rose and sunk in the horizon, as we glided gently along, until we found ourselves once more riding upon the long swells of an open sea. New-Guinea, or the Great Papua country, and Waygiou, or Waijoo, between which we passed, remained in sight many hours. The mountains of the former appeared stupendous, and the distant coast resembles hills of different altitudes and dimensions rising separately from the ocean. It is rather extraordinary, that, though we have been for many days surrounded by human habitations, some of which, with their possessors, we could distinctly discern, we have received no visitors, and perceived but one prow in motion.

Waijoo contains one hundred thousand inhabitants. It is said that they trade to a considerable extent with the Chinese, and that the greater part of them speak the Chinese language. From- the accounts of travellers, though we have seen nothing of a recent date, we can find no reason why an

intercourse might not be opened with them, and a mission established upon their island. Surely the number of souls is large enough to claim this duty from Christians; and its situation is peculiarly favourable, both for communication with home, and with the important islands in its vicinity.

But it is to New-Guinea that the eye turns with the deepest concern. This insular continent is about twelve hundred miles in length, and from fifteen to three hundred and sixty in breadth. Navigators speak with rapture of the beauty of its coasts, and the astonishing variety of its rich productions. Among the ornaments of its natural history is the farfamed bird of paradise, of which ten or twelve species make it their favourite residence. It is inhabited by several millions of souls, who are sunk in deep intellectual ignorance and spiritual death. Many distinct tribes, exceedingly opposite to each other in appearance and habits, spread themselves through its coasts and interior. The great mass consist of Negroes, of a Herculean frame and jet-black countenance, with prominent eyes, distended mouths, spreading noses, and curled hair projecting in an enormous bunch from the head. Some of them are cannibals of the worst character, others are mild, and obliging to strangers, disposed to trade upon terms the most advantageous to the other party, neither knowing the value of their own articles, nor the worthlessness of those they most admire. Though

we have never read of a single missionary having touched upon its shores, the wiser and more adventurous children of this world hesitate not to visit it whenever their object can be gained *.

Thus we perceive, from the catalogue of islands enumerated—and the list might be easily swelled, if we were to proceed a short distance to the east— what a sphere of Christian benevolence lies, in almost total neglect, in these seas. It is, no doubt, judged by some advisable to defer missionary engagements until commerce shall open an access to those barbarous regions, and prepare the way for the Gospel; but even if the character and conduct of traders had this general tendency, how long shall we wait ? Had there been any strong inducements to commercial

• The following facts were extracted from the journal of a captain, published in the Singapore Chronicle, under date of 1830 : they may be useful to some. At Dory of the charts, he found a good harbour, and the people very friendly. They gave him missoy bark, tripang, and tortoise-shell, in exchange for iron, blue cloth, &c. At Myfori(Long Island ofthe charts) the Rajah spoke Malay, but was absent; he afterwards met him, and found him friendly. At Misori, or Schoten island, the people are considered treacherous. At Paddydoo, or Traitor's Island, they are, on the contrary, exceedingly friendly; and, as an expression of it, carried their boat, when she grounded, about two miles. At Koreering, or Jobie, a considerable island in the deep bay, the natives were also very friendly. At Ansoose, off Jobie, latitude two degrees south, there are a number of islands; the natives are not to be trusted. At Coordoo (Geebrinks, East Point, of the charts), a small village on the east point of the great bay, their boats were seized, with six men in them : some of the men were killed in a savage manner. The bottom and east of the great bay is said to be inhabited by tlie worst description of cannibals. The principal trade is with the Chinese.

enterprize, the advantages would not have been neo-lected until now. And as it has been found that the influence of men from Christian countries in pursuit of wealth, is generally prejudicial to the extension of the religion whose principles they fail to exemplify, it is, no doubt, favourable that such a preliminary barrier has not been reared against the introduction ofthe truth.

The servants of Christ engaged in foreign commerce might afford the most valuable aid, in hastening the conversion of these nations. Indeed, without their assistance we scarcely know how any thing can be done for the present. They might dispatch a ship on an exploring tour, to obtain more information about the character and circumstances of the different tribes of natives, and to determine the most eligible sites for missions. The ship could probably defray her expenses, by the same traffic which others carry on who have no such object in view. When the best localities are ascertained, and missionaries sent forth to occupy them, nothing further would be required for facilitating their work, but to furnish them with small vessels, capable of navigating these seas, and to favour them with an annual visitor or two from home, to supply them with necessities and comforts.

With the blessing of God's Spirit upon their labours, which we believe would be quickly and amply bestowed, the missionaries would soon place

themselves upon a permanent and advantageous footing, and probably repay their commercial friends abundantly for their assistance. Thus the Gospel, by the light it sheds, and the diligence it commands, would prepare the way for trade, and the benefits that would accrue to different and widely distant nations would be incalculable. Millions, now below the brutes, would be exalted to the enjoyment of all the blessings of this life, and to the hopes of the glories of the life to come.

But lest the plan here proposed should be rejected, or, what amounts to the same thing, not acted upon, another may be suggested, in which the pecuniary sacrifice or hazard would be less. Those ships bound to Canton, which are obliged, like ourselves, to make this Eastern passage, might attempt the pre-requisite task of exploring; and upon its completion, if the trade did not answer their expectations, might proceed to Canton, without incurring much risk, or losing much time. And thus one or two out-of-season ships could annually touch at any station selected, and, by administering to the health and comfort of the missionaries, afford material service to the cause in which they are engaged.

But whence the necessity of holding out a temporal reward, as an inducement to Christians to discharge their duties What, but the glory of the Redeemer, can be the object of commerce in the purposes of God? and what could more loudlyproc

claim this object, than the sanctification of many to Himself, to whom He has entrusted the talent of such extensive usefulness ? " Surely the isles shall wait for me, and the ships of Tarshish first, to bring thy sons from far*."

If ships are to be employed in the benevolent plans of the Saviour, who, that understands his own honour, as well as duty, would hesitate to favour these purposes, and thus to identify himself, and his possessions, with the instrumentality employed in the regeneration ofa world ?

After leaving the Straits of Dampier, the wind obliged us to stand off in nearly an easterly direction. On the 8th of February we made the Pelew Islands, and were soon espied by the natives, who came off in pursuit of us. One canoe, with six men and women in it perfectly naked, succeeded in gaining the ship • but, although a rope was thrown to them, which they caught, and our progress was checked, their boat was drawn under the stern of the ship, and they were obliged to let go their hold, to save themselves. In their first attempt to gain the lee of the ship they were disappointed, and as they were defeated in their purpose a second time, even after attaining that position, they were evidently disinclined to renew the effort. After we separated, they remained a long time stationary, as though indulging in the

• Isaiah lx. 9.

listlessness of disappointment, or endeavouring to re-excite their hopes for another trial. Their proa was apparently the excavated trunk of a tree. Its breadth bore no proportion to its length. The sail was triangular. To the windward side was attached an out-rigger, projecting about three feet. On this as many sat as were necessary to preserve the balance of the boat, while one was constantly employed in discharging the water, received from every wave.

The performance of these canoes, and the skill and dexterity with which they are managed, are surprising. They come dancing over the waves like "fairy sprites," and with a velocity which it demands a stiff breeze and rough sea for a ship to equal. One or two of them continued in pursuit of us, until their small islands were left below our horizon, and themselves shut in by the shades of the evening.

The natives of these islands were formerly represented as the mildest and most benevolent specimens of unenlightened men. This character they have lately lost by attempts at violence, which prove that their previous kindness was neither natural, nor the result of principle. It is said that when they learned the uses of iron, they made a desperate effort to cut off a ship and murder all hands, in order to secure the object oftheir cupidity. Whether they may not have had another motive for the attack, such as revenge for offensive conduct, we cannot ascertain. But whatever may be their present character, they are to beChriso 2

tianized, and a mission might be planted, and sustained through the assistance of the ships passing in this track. Let barbarous nations be informed that they are to be often visited by vessels belonging to the friends of those who labour among them, and it would not fail to influence them in their conduct towards the missionaries.

CHAPTER II.

CHINA.

February 17th, 1830.—Latitude, 22 degrees North; longitude, 115 degrees 18 minutes East.

Early this morning we were called up to view the Chinese fishing boats, scattered in almost every direction around us. They had ventured beyond the sight of land, and were fishing in pairs, with a net trailing between them. These small boats are human habitations, occupied by as many generations as are usually permitted to exist contemporaneously. What a prison for intellectual beings, with little prospect of a change in this life, and no knowledge of immortality in the next!

It is said they are not allowed to trade with foreign vessels; and their exceeding shyness, and the attendance of the Government boats, confirm the existence of such an interdict. Two hundred were counted at one time.

18th.—To-day we caught the first glimpse of China, while sailing in a line with its coast. The distance was too great for us to distinguish any thing but the shadowy outline of its hills.

We have passed the latitude of Formosa, which

claims a notice, alike on account of its own inherent interest, and the sad tale of missions which its history unfolds. A chain of mountains, extending nearly north and south, forms a natural boundary between its aboriginal inhabitants and the Chinese. The western coast, in the possession of the latter, is said by the old Dutch writers to merit the name by which it is known. The eastern division is inhabited by several tribes, among which is a negro race of immense size. In the early part of the seventeenth century the Dutch introduced Christianity into this island. A number of chaplains successively engaged in the undertaking, who baptized multitudes, and formed many congregations. Parts of the Scriptures were translated into the vernacular tongue of the aborigines, which differs greatly from the language ofthe empire. These were sent to Amsterdam, with other Christian books, for publication; but there is no evidence that they ever went through the press. According to the account of the missionaries, this extensive field soon promised the most abundant fruits. But their prospects and projects were quickly defeated : the island was captured by a pirate, who massacred some of the chaplains, destroyed Christianity, and re-established idolatry. This event occurred in 1661, since which period the Chinese have spread themselves in numbers over its western section. At present it is in a state of constant rebellion, the resort of the disaffected towards the Government.

19th.—The dawn of this morning disclosed the

bluff, barren peaks of the Ladrone and neighbouringislands, called by the Chinese " the old ten thousand hills." Our approach was soon descried by the vigilant natives, and before sunrise, a tall, muscular, swarthy man came on board, and offered himself as a pilot: when informed that his services were not required, and convinced, from the ill success of his repeated applications, that money could not be earned, he assumed the less honourable office of a beggar. The same means were adopted by others who succeeded him in the course of the day, and tried all possible expedients to obtain money or money's worth.

From our visitors we received information of a variety of recent events, chiefly relating to foreign residents in Canton, some of which were fraught with painful interest. Many of them employed a broken English, of rather ludicrous peculiarity—an unknown tongue, indeed, to the uninitiated, but sufficient to communicate ideas, on ordinary topics, to those who had been educated in the same school. With one, whom the captain recognised, an agreement was soon made, and dispatches forwarded to Canton. The time to which he was limited, and on which his recompence depended, was scarcely sufficient to allow of the least interval of rest, although his countenance and conduct evinced that he considered ten dollars, the stipulated sum, an ample compensation. The distance of the place at which he met us from Canton is about eighty miles, and the risk of being detected by

the Government officers, in a business interdicted by law, by no means inconsiderable. Between eight and nine in the evening we reached the anchorage at Lintin. This entrance ofthe " celestial regions," is far from interesting. The numerous islands are rough and desolate, and, with the exception ofa few spots near the sea, there is scarcely the trace of a man or beast, or the appearance of vegetation, to be discovered.

20th.—Our present anchorage is the depot of smugglers, where the opium ships are moored, and whence this deathful drug, to the amount of several millions of dollars annually, is conveyed throughout the empire. Among the boats clandestinely engaged in the local traffic, are a number commissioned for the protection of lawful commerce, but which are as actively employed against the interests of the Government as they would be in the maintenance of its laws, if the revenue officers, who have them in charge, could fulfil the duties of their appointment as easily, and with greater advantage to themselves.

This afternoon, for the first time after a hundred and twenty-seven days, our feet touched solid ground, and though on a heathen shore, far from our native land, we felt a gratification peculiar to the wavetossed prisoner when released from his tedious confinement. It was the island of Lintin, the resort and habitation of fishermen, and the possession of a few families, who cultivate the ground and supply the shipping with provisions. Almost every foot of

land which had been levelled by nature, or could be reduced by art, was in cultivation; while the adjacent springs and ponds of water were all turned to account.

We attempted to enter a small village, but an old man came out, and with a courteous air of authority forbade us. In some of the huts near the beach they were engaged at their meals, and, with mouths as full as could be crammed without preventing mastication, invited us to stop and take " a little chou-chou " with them. They impart a flavour to their rice, by adding a small portion of meat, fish, or vegetables. These seasonings are generally placed in appropriate vessels, on the table, if they have one, or on the ground, in the midst of the circle. Each person is supplied with a bowl of rice, to which he conveys the more piquant provisions by means of two small sticks, held between the thumb and fingers of the right hand, and, placing the bowl in contact with the lower jaw, he shovels into his mouth as much of the rice as his distended cheeks can well contain.

The fact in which we are most interested, and which we cannot consider without reflecting upon the ignorance and apathy of the Christian world, is the unrestricted intercourse we have with multitudes, who welcome us to their huts on shore, and come around us in the ship, with all the ingenuousness and docility of children. If we knew their language, there is not the least reason why we might notconc 5

verse with them as freely on religious subjects as on all others.

26th.—As the ship was to remain at Lintin for several days, we engaged a native boat to carry us to Macao, about eighteen miles distant, and started after breakfast on Monday the 22d. The intervening islands and distant hills present the same sterile, volcanic aspect; and scarcely an object of the least interest is seen, until the bay and town of Macao open to the view in delightful contrast. These are entirely concealed by a projecting point of land, until close at hand. After fruitless conjectures where a European town of the least size can be situated, amid the scenes of desolation and ruggedness whicii appear from the level of the water, the change is sudden and unexpected. A long line of white European buildings, winding with a gentle sweep around the crescent shore of the bay; large military and ecclesiastical establishments crowning the summits of the hills; with a motley group of chapels, and houses of almost every size and construction, burst upon the view at once, and hold the mind, for a moment, in delightful surprise.

Macao stands upon an island, or rather a peninsula projecting from an island, with a beautiful bay in front, and a sheet of water in the rear. The irregular surface of the town, changing its appearance with every new position, encompassed with hill and dale, scattered villages and cultivated fields, islets and

bays, with an extensive and diversified water scenery, all beheld from the adjacent hills, may well command the admiration of visitors.

Variety is the most remarkable feature in the buildings. The houses occupied by foreign merchants are generally spacious, and well adapted tothe climate. The public edifices, and the numerous churches, though some of them are large, display nothing peculiar in their exterior appearance or their furniture. Much of the town is in possession of the Chinese, and consists, according to their taste, of low, confined huts, and narrow, filthy streets. According to a recent estimate, the number of inhabitants is about fifty thousand, of whom forty-five thousand are said to be Chinese; others suppose the whole amount not to exceed thirty or thirty-five thousand. Macao is the residence of those ladies who have accompanied their husbands to China, and the summer retreat of the majority of foreigners engaged in commerce at Canton. The number of English families, including one American, does not exceed a dozen.

One of the principal objects of curiosity to the traveller, is the grotto of Camoens, where the poet composed his celebrated Luciad. It is enclosed within the pleasure grounds ofa private residence, and combines the advantages of fine scenery, refreshing air, and undisturbed retirement. It is formed of three large rocks, two of which are upright and

support the third. The place where he is reported to have sat, is a small cavity in one ofthe rocks, which at present is occupied by a representative of less perishable material than himself. With a stern contour, a martial air, and the want of an eye, lost in the Saracen wars, there is very little to remind one of the poet whose charming verse, according to his countrymen, could scarcely be surpassed.

The history of Macao is involved in considerable uncertainty, but those points of inquiry most interesting to the Christian community are by no means obscure.

The Portuguese say that they received it from the emperor about the middle of the sixteenth century, as an expression of gratitude for expelling a band of pirates, who, making it their head-quarters, infested the coast and blocked up the port of Canton. The Chinese assert that the place was gradually usurped by tlie Portuguese, in their rage for foreign possessions; and recent researches shew, that, if the former are correct, they cannot produce the emperor's grant to prove it. In whatever way possession was gained, the Jesuits and others immediately took the colony under their spiritual charge, erected churches, founded a monastery and college, and opened a communication with different parts of the interior. If the purity of their faith had harmonized with the force of their misguided zeal, there is every reason to believe that this Pagan empire would have assumed

a different aspect long before now. The truth would perhaps have awakened persecution earlier, but it would neither have provoked it by anti-Christian measures, nor suffered so severely from its deadliest rage.

It is difficult to determine to what extent the forces of Catholicism have been weakened in China. Since the general expulsion of the European priests, numbers have ventured, and are continually venturing, into the interior, although thev have generally been conveyed to their charge in a clandestine manner. Some have been sent from Macao to Pekin, to supply the board of mathematicians: but the emperor's request, and their avowed object in complying with it, were alike distinct from all ecclesiastical interference. Very recently, one of them was transferred from Pekin to Canton, with considerable pomp, and for the purpose of returning to Europe. It was said by many to be a plan of the emperor's to get him respectably out of the country; others maintain that he requested permission to visit his aged mother before her death. However this may be, I am informed that at present there is but one Roman Catholic priest employed in the emperor's service, and for the last twenty years no fresh ones have been invited *.

• The following estimate of the Roman Catholic forces was obtained from one oftheir most credible priests, by a mutual friend.—

The French mission has two bishops, four or five European missionaries, thirty native missionaries, and fifty-one thousand converts.

In the college of St. Joseph, formerly in the hands of the Jesuits, there are a number of Chinese youth, educated at the expense of the Portuguese Government exclusively for the priesthood. These are ordained as missionaries to the interior. Other natives are received, and instructed at their own charges. Besides this institution, there are about twelve churches and forty priests for the limited population professing the Roman Catholic faith.

Our attention was frequently arrested by crowds of women visiting the different temples, and we were constrained to believe the season to be one of peculiar sanctity, or the place greatly given to superstition. Whether the first conjecture was correct or not, the facts that quickly came to our knowledge left no grounds to doubt the second. The patron saint, or rather tutelary deity, ofthe place,isSt.Antonio. Having been skilled in the use of" carnal weapons" in the early part of his career, he is exceedingly popular among the military, and is represented as a valuable assistant in war. When the Dutch attacked the place, it is said by many that he appeared in the air, and routed the invaders; others ascribe the victory to the timely

The Portuguese mission has one bishop, one European missionary, twenty-nine native missionaries, and eighty thousand converts. At Macao they have two seminaries, eight European missionaries, and one thousand converts.

The Italian mission has four European missionaries, and thirty thousand converts.

The Spanish mission has one bishop, two European missionaries, and thirty-five thousand converts.

aid of John the Baptist, the battle having occurred upon his day. The Portuguese Government allow St. Antonio the pay of a captain, and honour him with, or require from him in return, an annual feast of thirteen days' continuance. According to my informant, who is one of their number, and has frequently participated in the festivities of the season, they suppose it by no means inconsistent with the pleasure of the saint to indulge in excesses which set at defiance all the laws of temperance, and bring their religion into discredit among their heathen neighbours. It is difficult to conceive how grosser idolatry could exist, than that which prompts some of the acts of their devotion to this deified hero. They are not satisfied with " bowing down before the graven image," but, not admitting the very heathen's distinction—I should say, his professed distinction— between the deity and his representation, they carry the figure in procession, with military pomp, to make an annual visit to the image-of St. Francis, presiding at another church.

To the mind of one who feels an interest in the conversion of the world, it is a painful circumstance that the only spot under European controul, in the whole empire of China, should exhibit to the heathen the most gross and absurd notions of that holy religion whose name they attach to their worse than Pagan abominations. Macao, and Manilla, on the island of Luzon, which are among the most

advantageous foreign posts for Chinese missions, are subject to a power, and exert an influence, which have the double tendency of keeping the true light from entering, and of prejudicing the minds of the heathen against it, should it penetrate. The same anti-christian influence prevails in the Chinese island of Hainan, where the Roman Catholic religion is said to be still prevalent; and in many of the adjacent kingdoms on the west and south, where the language is best known, and the intercourse with China most frequent.

Japan, on the east, has been arrayed as powerfully against the religion of the Cross, as Satanic malice could desire. So that, by means of this spurious faith, the great enemy of God and man has attempted to raise impregnable barriers against the introduction of the Gospel into China. But how unable the policy and forces of hell, though intimidating to the faithless mind of man, to resist the power and wisdom which shall soon be brought to bear against them! Every difficulty of the kind should but simplify and strengthen our faith in that word which is pledged to destroy them all, and the striking and speedy accomplishment of which, shall doubtless be a subject of admiration and gratitude to all the followers of Christ.

In the town and immediate vicinity of Macao are several Chinese temples, to which a few priests ofthe Budah sect are attached. The most remarkable is situated on the south-west side of the town. It

consists of a number of small buildings, on the acclivity of a steep hill, grouped in a fanciful manner with large upright rocks and overhanging trees. The rough lines of nature and the polish of art are blended in striking Contrast in this grotesque form of Pagan superstition.

The principal part of the time unoccupied in our excursions, was agreeably passed in the family of Dr. Morrison, who had left the place but a few days before our arrival. We were happy to learn that the Doctor had had the recent gratification of baptizing another native convert. The English Factory, during their semi-annual residence here, are allowed to have service performed by their chaplain; and Dr. Morrison is not prevented from holding a religious meeting, every Sabbath, in his own dwelling.

On the morning of the 24th we left this pleasant retreat, and, wafted by a fresh breeze, reached the ship about noon. As each had expected that some of the rest would cater for our breakfast, vve were obliged to satisfy a craving appetite upon the boiled rice and salted cabbage of our temperate boatmen. On our arrival, we found that a small European vessel had been sent for us from Canton, but, owing to the uncertainty of our return, had sailed. The event left us the choice of remaining a number of days in the ship, in this cold and rainy season, or of venturing in a native " fast boat," contrary to one of their barbarous prohibitions. We soon decided on

the latter alternative, and left the ship in the twilight of evening. We were obliged to spend the night in an apartment fitted up for the lodgings of the boatmen and the residence of their gods. A group of small gilded images, seated in a shrine decorated with coloured paper, occupied one corner, and received the homage of the crew. Before the shrine an incense stick of sandal-wood was kept lighted, and a lamp burning. The cabin, in which the idols, part of the crew, ourselves and baggage, were stowed, was so low that vve could barely sit upright. After changing our position as often as an opposing wind changed the course of our boat, we found ourselves at day-break but a very short distance above the last fort. This was a point of safety which the men had toiled hard and silently to gain, before the light should expose us to those on shore. During the morning, though they scrutinized with a good glass every object of suspicion, they appeared to place so much dependence upon the performance of their brigantine, and their own muscular assistance, as to dismiss all apprehension, and to labour with much cheerfulness. Indeed, as far as we are capable of judging, liveliness is a prominent characteristic of the Chinese.

Low lands appropriated to the culture of rice, and ranges of hills with no other verdure than a few scattered trees, made up the scenery between our position at day-break and Whampoa. A few temples

appeared in different parts of the low lands, and one of considerable elevation crowned the summit of a high hill.

About the middle of the afternoon vve reached Whampoa, the principal anchorage for vessels engaged in lawful traffic with China. A recent difficulty with the Government had detained the stately ships employed in the service ofthe East India Company; and the yearly fleet, consisting of twenty vessels or upwards, with those of other nations employed in the China trade, were moored within a short distance of each other. The number of seamen engaged in the Company's service, and attached to the shipping in the harbour, is about three thousand. What a congregation might be gathered, from those who speak the English language, if the walls of national and ecclesiastical separation were entirely demolished, and if the custom of keeping holy the Lord's-day were universally observed !

The distance between Whampoa and Canton is about twelve miles. A strong opposing current kept us four hours on the way, and made it nine in the evening before we arrived. For some time after we started, there was sufficient light to distinguish every remarkable object on land and water. Among the former are large pagodas, towering in the air, and darkened and mouldering with age. Two of them are situated on small eminences—" high places "—'Compared with the surrounding country, and stand forth

with commanding prominence. They are nine stories in heigbt, of an octagonal form, with doors or niches on each side of every story, and gradually diminishing in circumference to the top. Their sides and summits are partially covered with shrubs and herbage, springing from beds of earth, which it must have required ages to collect and consolidate *.

As might be expected, there is a great variety in the structure and internal arrangements of the boats. Those intended for sea are too primitive and clumsy to be any thing but the product of the earliest and dullest invention. The bow and stern rise to a great elevation, and present such a dangerous surface to the wind, as to account for the numerous losses sustained every year. European improvements are disallowed. Some of the small Government barges display a degree of taste and skill in construction which form a strong contrast to the mass around them. The consequence and curse of spiritual ignorance—alas! too common where that ignorance is wilful—are apparent in many of the boats decorated and furnished to decoy " the simple," and lead him "into paths inclining unto the dead."

We had scarcely gained half our distance, when

• These towers were erected by the descendants of Dchingis Khan, in the Yuen dynasty, during the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries. It was a prevalent superstition of the times that they were effectual in repressing demoniacal and noxious influences in the surrounding country, and that their efficacy was graduated by their height.

" * * * * Sorrowing we beheld

The night come on; but soon did night display More wonders than it veiled."

As the shades of evening darkened round us, great numbers of lamps broke through the gloom, and appeared either ranged in rows, almost as far as the eye could reach, or changing their position and varying the general aspect, according to the different directions of the moving vessels. The scene was more like magic than reality, and calculated to awaken ideas, or call up visions, which seldom visit collected minds in wakeful hours. As we approached the city our progress became more interrupted by crowds of boats, and such was their density when we arrived within a short distance of the landing-place, that the men were obliged to exchange their oars for short paddles, and work their way through whatever opening they could find or form.

On Thursday, February 25th, 1830, we reached our ultimate destination, and were most kindly received by C. W. Talbot, Esq., the consular agent, whose father and brother had been our fellow-passengers, and to whose hospitality we were commended by our friends in America. We were soon visited by Dr. Morrison, who, as might be expected, welcomed his fellow-missionaries into this long-neglected field with no ordinary joy. A career of more than two-andtwenty years' labour, under the many embarrassments and trials which were experienced, especially at first, without the permanent assistance of a single

companion—his health, too, being shattered by toil and anxieties—have, as might be supposed, sufficiently prepared him to welcome those whose avowed object is the same, and who may be expected to find their highest interest in its promotion. From many of the residents, and especially from those of our own countrymen to whom we had letters, we soon enjoyed all those polite and kind attentions which are calculated to reconcile a stranger to an abode in foreign parts.

CHAPTER III.

CHINA — CANTON AND ITS VICINITY.

It may be acceptable to the reader to interrupt the chronological order of events, and present at the commencement a picture of Canton, and the places and objects in its vicinity which are the most worthy of notice.

The city stands upon the north bank of the Chookeang, or Pearl river, nearly eighty miles from the sea. Its site is almost a level: it is bounded in the rear by a range of naked, uninteresting hills. Including the river and neighbourhood, the population has been estimated at fifteen hundred thousand. The city itself is surrounded by walls, within which the stranger is not allowed to enter : the suburbs, or unwalled town, of about equal extent and populousness, being alone accessible to foreigners. There is nothing in the locality ofthe place, the arrangement of its streets, or the style of its buildings, calculated to call forth the admiration of the visitor. The scene, it is true, affords abundant interest to the stranger; but it is the interest of novelty alone, and soon leaves the mind without an agreeable recollection.

The houses are generally low, narrow, and exceedingly compact. Some of the factories, or hongs, especially those occupied by the tea-merchants, are immensely spacious, and contain a vast number of compartments; but they must be entered before you can determine their locality, as there is nothing to indicate them externally.

The width of the streets varies from about three to fifteen feet, measuring from house to house; and the average width would probably not exceed eight feet. Even in passing through the business districts, I have frequently extended my arms and reached the opposite houses. The principal streets are occupied by merchants and mechanics, and their shops are so constructed as to open in front, and expose their contents to the observation of the passenger. Boards, with large painted or gilded characters, intended for signs, are placed before each door, and, facing the direction of the street, constitute its most ornamental objects.

The trades are generally found in close vicinity. The different classes of mechanics bind themselves to certain conventional regulations, and each party has a public hall of meeting, for consultation, feasting, and dramatic amusements. Those articles which are most saleable to foreigners are brought to the streets adjacent to the factories. It is amusingfto examine the heterogeneous contents of many of these shops, and no less so to find that the spirit of the

proprietor is still more accommodating than his wellstored house. If your search does not discover the required article, you have only to ask for it, and if attainable any where, or by any means, upon your terms, you have entered the right shop, and need proceed no farther.

Economy of room, to the exclusion of comfort, convenience, and cleanliness, appears to be the sole object in the lanes where the women and children are kenneled. This is the only specimen of domestic life accessible to the foreigner, and it is said that the families of persons of considerable wealth are obliged to exist under these circumstances. It requires a considerable degree of courage and perseverance to thread the mazes of some of these alleys, and emerge into air and space. Elbows and angles, of almost every shape, formed by the blind corners of buildings, oppose the progress of the adventurer, and, if he dare proceed, perplex him by their multiplicity. At the corners of the streets are wickets, which can be readily closed, and are well calculated to separate a rabble, or confine a thief. These are shut at night, and guarded by watchmen.

Notwithstanding the limited space between the houses, the thoroughfare of the streets is in many places still more straitened by the stands of butchers fishmongers, fruiterers, hucksters, mechanics, quacks, and often by jugglers, story-tellers, and gamblers, with their attendants. As the articles exposed for

D

sale in the streets are chiefly adapted to the necessities of the day, the extreme to which the principle of accommodation is carried furnishes a criterion of the pecuniary circumstances of the mass of the people. Poultry and fish are divided into very minute portions. A quarter of a fowl, the head and neck, and frequently the entrails alone, is all they can afford. This of course is a piece of luxury, and designed merely to give a relish to their ordinary and less extravagant fare. Vegetables, from their cheapness, are so indispensable to the daily support of the community, that they are exposed for sale in the streets in the greatest profusion. But the display of tea in the shops is the most amusing. The Chinese, as is well known, drink universally the black teas. These are sold, not simply according to their qualities, but according to the strength which remains after their virtues have been partially extracted by less indigent purchasers.

Fruit abounds in Canton. Those kinds indigenous to temperate regions are, indeed, of an inferior quality, but the tropical varieties arrive at a high perfection; and a few species there are designated by Chinese names, and probably peculiar to that empire*.

Besides the vigilance and skill required in navigating this channel, so narrowed and obstructed by

• Among the fruits are the following: Oranges, lemons, shaddocks, pomegranates, grapes, pears, peaches, plums, ananas, bananas, mangoes, papaw, lie-chel, long-yuen, or-lams, diospyrns, loquat, long-hok, parsimmons, &c.

the numerous articles referred to, it is necessary to comfort and cleanliness to catch the warnings and watch the motions of the porters, who carry all moveable bodies upon their shoulders, and who constitute no inconsiderable portion of the moving multitude. Their burden is suspended to the ends or centre of bamboos, according to its separability and weight, and transferred, however bulky and ponderous, to any distance, with much dispatch.

Such is the number of these labourers that their voices are constantly ringing in our ears, and such is the throng around them that their progress depends almost as much on their lungs as their muscles.

One class, called by the Chinese " horses without tails," address you in a more authoritative tone. These are the bearers of men of distinction and wealth, who generally appear abroad in sedan chairs, and often take up so much of the small streets with these vehicles, as to leave but a dangerous space between them and the houses.

Among the objects most calculated to attract the attention and arouse the sympathies of the Christian, are the indices of their moral debasement. Their temples are numerous, their gods without number. One or more idols, are seated in state in every temple; while others, probably of inferior dignity and office, are standing near. Some of these are frightful looking figures; all are gross in form, answering to their notions of bodily elegance, or

d2

rather of bodily comfort, which appears of higher importance to a Chinaman. The structure of the temple, as well as the number and arrangement of the images, depends upon the tenets of the sect to which they belong.

The three leading sects in China are known, in the Mandarin dialect, by the names of Joo, Fuh, Taou—i. e. the Confucians, Buddhists, and theTaou, or Alchymic sect, " the mystics of the heathen world in China."

The first and last originated in China; the second was introduced from India, soon after the Christian era, and, principally by means of the circulation of tracts, has become the most prevalent superstition in the empire. The Buddhists and Taou sects inculcate future rewards and punishments; decking the former in all the charms of sensuality and sloth, and representing the latter by every horrid combination of bodily torture.

Notwithstanding all the admiration heaped upon Confucius and his system, by ignorance in the empire, and infidelity in more enlightened parts, that philosopher confessed that he "knew but little about the gods, and therefore preferred saying nothing on the subject." Respecting the immortality ofthe soul, and a future state of retribution, he advances nothing. The common opinion of his followers is, that virtue is rewarded and vice punished in the individuals, or in their posterity, onjy on earth. They speak of the

immortal principle as being at death " annihilated," "melted," "scattered."

From one of the native books it appears that there are in China upwards of one thousand five hundred and sixty temples dedicated to Confucius. About sixty-two thousand victims—bullocks, pigs, sheep, deer—are annually sacrificed, and twenty-seven thousand six hundred pieces of silk offered, to the manes of the sage. This is the wisdom of the learned heathen, who generally teach that " death is annihilation," and who sometimes affirm that there is neither " God, angels, nor spirits." To whom, to what, do they present these offerings ? Like many in Christian lands, these very persons shew the insincerity of their professions in the prospect of death. Then the priests of Budh*, whom they despise and ridicule in health, are called in to give the mind some support under its dread, if not its consciousness, of immortality.

Besides the numerous temples in the city, small images, answering to their notions of district gods, are placed in the corners of the streets, and receive the homage of the neighbourhood. Not satisfied with these, every house has its family altar, either before the door or in the principal room, frequently in both places. Those in front of the house are generally small alcoves in a projecting platform, furnished with a few idols, or, more commonly, with the Chinese

• The Confucians have no priests of their own.

written character signifying God, or superior being. On walking out in the evening, the fumes of sandalwood, of which their incense-stick is made, assail the senses in every direction, and their light almost answers the purpose of city lamps in these narrow streets. These, with a few wax tapers, and one or two unmeaning bows of the person who prepares them, are the daily offerings made to the images of China.

The popular religion of China, if definable at all, is probably made up of a combination of tenets held by the different sects in the empire, with a mixture of notions and customs which neither system originated, but which the votaries of each practise. Among these customs are, sacrificing to the dead, and burning gold and silver paper on religious occasions. The former of these customs, if not both of them, appears to their minds the most sacred of all observances*.

The observance of the fifteenth day of the moon, and of its full, is almost universal. Among a people fond of sloth, and addicted to sensuality, it is not to be wondered at that feast-days should be popular, and their frequent recurrence welcome to those who have the means of providing for them. Among the most

• The following exhortation is taken from one of their moral works:

"While (parents are) alive, on going out of doors inform them; on returning, shew them your face.—When dead, also, on going abroad mention it (before the tablet, which they set up in every house at the decease of parents and relatives); when you return, keep a feast before them; serve them when dead, just as when alive."

prevalent of their doctrines is the Buddhistic notion of transmigration, which hangs " in terrorem " over the more sedate and thinking class of the nation.

According to the excellent Dr. Milne *, " When we behold the best of the rulers of China, and the most enlightened of her sages (i. e. Confucius),-worshipping any god or no god at all, just as suited time, place, and the taste of the age, what shall we think of their hearts, virtues, and productions I Can we suppose those systems capable of directing the bulk of the people to God, which left their authors to worship the heavens and the earth, mountains and rivers, the gods of the kitchen and the spirits of the dead ? "

"The current of Chinese idolatry widened and deepened as it flowed, by the accession of tributary streams from Western and Eastern Tartary. Most of the forms of mythology which make any figure in the page of history, now exist in China; except that their indecent parts, and their direct tendency to injure human life, have been cut off. China has her Diana, her Æolus, her Ceres, her Esculapius, her Mars, her Mercury, her Neptune, and her Pluto, as well as the western Pagans had. To use their own expression, ' her gods are in number hke the sands of Havy river.' She has gods celestial, terrestrial, and subterraneous—gods of the hills, of the valleys, of the woods, of the districts, of the family,

• In his Retrospect of the First Ten Years of the Protestant Mission to China, p. 28.

of the shop, and of the kitchen. She adores the gods who are supposed to preside over the thunder, the rain, the fire; over the grain; over births and deaths, and over the small-pox. She also worships the genii of the mountains, rivers, lakes, and seas, together with birds, beasts, and fishes."

"Astrology, divination, geomancy, and necromancy, every where prevail; spells and charms every one possesses."

As might be expected, the god of wealth is the most popular deity among the tradesmen and merchants. He is represented with a wedge of gold in one hand.

On the door of their houses a figure is painted, which they call the god of the door. His protection is deemed of incalculable importance to the family. The inscription of his name is often employed as a substitute.

To a foreigner, the compressed feet of many of the woman met in the streets of Canton, is an object of much curiosity. That human nature would admit of such a distortion, or robbery, or rather both together, I could not have imagined. The smallest are said, by the Chinese, to be but three inches in length; four is certainly not an unfrequent size. In fact they do not deserve the name of feet, for there is nothing but the great toe—if the term great may be applied to such an object—left in its natural position; all the others being wrested from their appointed place

and office, bent under the ball of the foot, and there made to answer the purpose of its sole. This accounts for their painful and unnatural gait. The ancle, in many cases, is not, as has been generally asserted, enlarged. This custom, though by no means universal, is not restricted to the higher circles of society. Women in the most straitened circumstances, often in mendicant poverty, are seen waddling with careful steps in pursuit of their daily support. These, however, are said to have been reduced in pecuniary circumstances.

The fraternity of beggars are objects of true compassion, and thrust themselves into notice at Canton. This class is very numerous in China; and, whether an indispensable requisite for office, or a necessary appeal to the sympathies of a Chinaman, there are very few exceptions to universal and total blindness. When alone, each feels his way with a stick, but frequently a number string themselves in a row, and depend upon the sagacity of one blind leader, or the more favoured eyes of a youthful guide. The success of their application depends upon the skilful use of bamboo sticks, iron pans, musical instruments, and their own vocal powers; and such is the force of custom, that, when they enter a house, they are never expelled until their object is gained. It is good policy not to be too hasty in acceding to their requests, otherwise the same grating application is likely to be forthwith

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repeated by a successor, who takes care that there shall be no long pause in the music. Groups of them frequently assemble, and set up a concert of all their instruments in one place. On some days there is scarcely a shop from which these sounds do not proceed.

One company of them sally forth at twilight, and go the round of some of the principal streets contiguous to the factories, including the walk in front of the foreign buildings. Their application is usually chaunted in mournful strains, and the whole region is made vocal by their numerous and dissonant voices. A Chinaman is stationed before the factories, ycleped "king of the beggars," who preserves order among them in his dominions.

There is said to be an organized association of beggars in Canton, consisting of about one thousand members, and bearing the epithet of " The Heavenly Flower Society." These pay a fee of admittance, bind themselves to certain rules, and when disobedient incur a severe penalty. The Government recognizes a head man among them, who is made accountable for the conduct of the whole community. Still lower in the scale of human degradation are a few of the most loathsome and miserable beings I ever beheld. With matted hair, bodies partially incrusted with dirt and covered with vermin, and but a tattered mat to conceal their nakedness, they wander about, eating the rejected offals of fish and vegetables, and

lodging on whatever heap of rubbish they may stumble upon when sleepy. Some of them are outcast lepers, who are obliged by law to wear a peculiar hat, and mat around the shoulders, to designate them as objects of infection. (See Leviticus xiii. 45.)

Surrounded by the city, or the unwalled town, which has been described, and in a line with the river, are the factories assigned to the foreign residents in Canton. They are separated from the shore of the river by the largest, and almost the only, open space in the vicinity. The two occupied by the agents of the Dutch and English Companies have extensive verandahs in front, and walks enclosed by high walls to the water's edge. Most of them are built in a row, and extend about a hundred yards in front. A street and a large projecting building, occupied by one of the Hong merchants, separate this row from others, known by the name of the French and Danish factories. All the factories extend in blocks to an irregular depth, and are separately occupied by merchants and visitors. The communication is an avenue, generally through the lower story of each, or between distinct compartments. The appearance of these buildings is quite imposing, especially when contrasted with the neighbourhood.

The open space before the factories is the rendezvous of multitudes ofthe natives, who assemble daily, to transact business, gratify curiosity, or kill time,

It is level for a short distance; beyond which it stretches over a large pile of rubbish, deposited here after the desolating fire of 1822, and retained, notwithstanding numerous applications for its removal, as a lasting and growing nuisance to foreigners.

When the morning opens upon this scene, silence is atan end, and the ears of the stranger are assailed by a most peculiar combination of sounds. Human voices of harsh, drawling tones; cries of confined dogs and cats; screams of roughly handled poultry; notes of feathered songsters, some of them admirably gifted and trained; with, at times, an accompaniment of very unmusical instruments—all unite in this inharmonious concert.

The occupations of the tradesmen are varied. Meat, fish, vegetables, fruit, drugs, manufactures— every thing saleable—is brought to this general market. Many of them convey their portable kitchens hither, and prepare such dishes as suit the palates and purses of this promiscuous assembly. Others plant their barber's shop, or its necessary apparatus, in a convenient place, and spend their leisure hours in conversation and lolling about. Those who frequent the place for trade are less numerous probably than the groups of idlers, who pass their time in listening to stories, witnessing juggling tricks, attending the operations and lectures of empirics, gaping at objects of novelty, and, too frequently, endeavouring to obtain each other's money by gambling.

When the sun is oppressive the crowd retires, with the exception of the hucksters, who intercept his scorching beams by temporary tilts. The erection of tents is a liberty not sanctioned by law, or, rather, contrary to the oral prohibitions of the petty officers who have the square in charge. Consequently, when men of authority make their appearance the scene suddenly changes. There is the most hasty dispatch, from the first moment of alarm, until every thing is removed that militates against their orders. Their exit is regarded as the signal for restoration, and all things speedily revert to their former state. This pretended subjection, joined with real contempt for authority when it opposes individual gain, is said to be a prominent feature of the nation.

The projecting building referred to above as the only one in the row occupied by Chinamen, is so situated as to throw its shade, as the sun declines, directly before the American hong. This is the place of general concourse from the middle of the afternoon until evening, and the crowd being then most concentrated, the clamour is quite deafening. Neither is the darkness of night always attended with its appropriate stillness; for, though the rabble of the day disperses, there is another company, consisting chiefly of the coolies of the factories, who, with a few noisy cooks, anxious to apprize the neighbourhood of their presence, continue their conversations and engagements until a late hour.

The insatiable curiosity of many who appear daily before the factories, is both amusing and annoying. Groups of strangers frequently visit the square, and, probably from having previously no correct idea of the style of the buildings and the appearance of foreigners, they gaze upon every novel object with a fixedness of posture and vision like that of statues. If you expose yourself to view in the verandah, they generally stand right before it; and if you walk in front ofthe buildings, they linger as near your track as possible, and continue to stare as though riveted by a magic spell. Though tumultuous, there is, in general, very little contention among this concourse. The least appearance of an unlawful commotion calls forth a public officer, who resides for the purpose in full view, and who is exceedingly efficient in quelling a riot and scattering offenders. When occasion requires, he summons to his aid one or two lictors, who, armed with scourges, and apparently vested with a discretionary power in using them, occasion a precipitate retreat. The guilty are frequently chased, and, when caught, dragged along to the hall of justice by their pendant cues, which are cruelly drawn over the front of the head, and made to press the face toward the ground.

In surveying this mass of accountable beings, there are many points of great interest to attract the eye of Christian compassion and benevolence. Independently of those common to all the heathen, there are

facts of importance peculiar to this daily throng. Great numbers of- them can read, and do read every publication that meets their eyes. It is customary to paste up advertisements in the most public places of the square and the streets, and the groups generally found throughout the day gathered round them prove their eagerness to catch at every piece of information. Many of these hand-bills set forth the pretensions of quacks, and are often of such an immoral character as to prove that God has indeed * given the people up to vile affections " who can endure them. What a place for the operations of a press sacred to the cause ofthe Redeemer!

Another fact of interest is, that this daily multitude consists of persons from different parts of the interior, as well as from the immediate vicinity. If business or pleasure brings them to the city, they can scarcely possess the curiosity of the nation if they return without a visit to the thirteen hongs, as they term the foreign buildings.

How far the missionary would be allowed to proceed in his intercourse with the natives, or whether those obstacles which are considered insuperable by some, would not, if they do really exist, yield to a little courage and perseverance, remains to be tested. One rule of action among the Chinese, which should never be forgotten by those who labour for their best interests, is, that they seldom, if ever, grant a request, for the most trifling thing, when applied to; and very seldom

oppose, or persist in opposing, any reasonable attempt, if a little determination and fearlessness is evinced.

The necessity of having the Scriptures translated, and other preparatory works of indispensable importance accomplished, have not only consumed the time of the senior missionary, but obliged him to leave experiments to those whose presence could be more easily dispensed with—who have not the first toils of a mission before them.

It has been mentioned that the Choo-keang, or Pearl river, runs in front of the factories, and forms the southern boundary of Canton. In passing to and from the shipping I had a favourable opportunity of viewing the numerous boats, which on our arrival were partially obscured by the shades of night. The magic appearance of the first evening had nearly vanished. It was evident that from ignorance as to the locality of the city, some of the lights on shore bad been imagined to be in the boats, and the level site of the city mistaken for extensive water scenery. Yet enough remained to attract and distract the attention, and to keep the mind in a glowof excitement. The boats are much more numerous abreast of the city, and opposite the villages bordering on the river, than in the intervening waters. These are, for the most part, the residencesof families; and as the owners of many of them are employed on shore, they are kept more stationary than the others. This, however,

is not so much the result of choice, or inability on the part of the women to manage their boats, as it is the want of an adequate inducement to change their position. Even children of both sexes, as soon as they are capable of assisting, are taught to labour to the extent of their strength; so that the absence of the father and husband is no preventive to any undertaking, that is sufficiently profitable. When the parties are dependent for a livelihood upon the hire of their boats, women appear to labour quite as diligently as the men; by which means they acquire all the dexterity and endurance, and, I may add, coarseness, of which human nature is susceptible. It is not uncommon to see them tugging at the oar with an infant tied to their backs, and its head, if feeble, keeping time to the motion of the mother's body.

Such is the multitude and density of these dwellings in some favourite regions, that they often conceal a large surface of the element on which they rest, and appear jumbled together in a solid mass. In other places they are arranged with contiguous sides, and extend from each shore, leaving about a third of the river clear. Groups of them are often detached from the land and moored in regular rows; affording the means of communication among themselves, and preventing intercourse with the shore. Besides these family boats, there are many others, of much larger dimensions, which are employed

in conveying articles of commerce between Canton and different parts of the empire

Strange vessels generally select the centre of the river for an anchorage, and, yielding to the force ofa powerful current, range in the direction of the stream. Besides these clusters of vessels, there are numbers of insulated crafts, of different sizes, scattered on all sides, and equally tending to obstruct the passage of the river. In fact, it is necessary to keep a sharp look-out, and to steer, in some places, the most crooked course, to avoid coming in contact with stationary and moving boats. One class of these dwellings, and it comprises a large number, is composed of the sties of a degraded portion of the community, many of whom, it is said, are early sold, by their inhuman parents, to perpetual infamy and wretchedness. These are distinguished from all the rest by the superior style of their structure and embellishments.

It is a singular fact, that the Chinese look upon those who dwell in boats as a distinct race from themselves. They consider them as low people, and aliens, and refuse to intermarry with them. Tradition says that they came from outside the mouth of the river. The grandfather of the present emperor was the first who naturalized them. Before his time they were not permitted to land.

Neither is the whole of the water population confined to floating residences. Houses erected on piles,

and superior to the ordinary influence of wind and tide, extend in some places a considerable distance from the shore opposite to Canton. Between the villages, as has been stated, the boats are less numerous; but, as might be supposed, there are numbers constantly passing, besides many engaged in fishing, or whatever employment may offer along the shore. Their vessels of war indicate either an amicable disposition, a friendly neighbourhood, or a great deficiency of skill in naval architecture. The strength of their materials would give them an advantage in defensive warfare; but they are built on an antiquated and clumsy plan, and calculated neither to contend with a tumultuous sea, nor to confront a modern foe.

Besides these, a number of galliots are employed by government, to defend the trade, and prevent the depredations of the ladrones, or pirates, by whom the rivers and coasts were formerly much infested. These are well built, and generally manned by as many rowers as can occupy the seats and employ the oars with advantage. Superstition, or old custom, has furnished them all with eyes *. Their conductors, however, appear capable of seeing but one object, and in the pursuit of that they stop not to inquire whether friend or foe suffers. All

• Every Chinese bo;'.t of any size, has two large eyes painted, one on each side of the bow.

these unprincipled officers of Government can be bribed, and that to the connivance, and even prosecution, of a traffic (the opium trade) which is not only interdicted by the laws of the country, but is the destruction of its vital interests.

Among these fluviatic tribes, every convenience of land, as well as water, is enjoyed. Eatables, materials for sacrifice, and other articles of equal demand, are furnished to their hand; while barbers, play-actors, and all who can reap advantage by administering to their comfort or amusement, pursue the same system of mutual accommodation.

The appearance of the river is by no means an incorrect barometer, indicating especially those great changes in the atmosphere which are subjects of apprehension to these experienced weather spies. The difference between the water scenery in a fair day, and a storm, or the prospect of a gale, is very striking. One would scarcely believe that the numbers who appear so thickly congregated in different parts of the river in good weather, could crowd into the compass which confines them when danger is feared. In times of apprehension the river appears as clear as those of other countries; its width is still, however, considerably contracted by the boats closely ranged along the shores.

Of all the different descriptions of craft, there are very few destitute of shrines, images, or inscriptions of some kind, and the necessary apparatus for their

daily offerings. Every morning and evening, and whenever evils are deprecated or special blessings craved, they fly to their altar, apply a piece of consecrated paper, oiled for the purpose, to the burning lamp or incense-stick, and, when it blazes, throw it into the water, and bow to the imaginary spirit of the deep.

By a recent statement, the number of family boats subject to an annual tax, in the vicinity of Canton alone, is computed at fifty thousand; while the larger vessels employed between Canton and Whampoa are estimated at eighteen thousand more. Neither does this give us a full view of the vast number of perishing idolaters who inhabit the waters of this region. The amount is greatly swelled by the men employed in the large canal boats, which ply between this port and different parts of the interior; and by the crews of the junks employed in the coasting trade, numbers of which are constantly lying in the harbour. A communication is kept up between Canton and every part of the empire; and if the former maintain its commercial advantages, and receive from Christians the attention it merits, it must become one of the most important mission stations in the world.

One of the principal modes of recreation among foreigners, is rowing and sailing in small boats, which they keep for the purpose. In these excursions it is often necessary to pass through fleets of native craft; and thus to come in contact with crowds of persons, who might be taught and furnished with

books. It is true they evince a shyness towards foreigners, which may be partially inspired by the officers of Government; but it is a question whether this might not be overcome by a little perseverance, and whether, when conversing with them became a common practice, it would not cease to awaken

suspicion.

Opposite to Canton is the island of Hainam, so called from its situation on the south side of the river. Here we have been in the habit of taking an occasional ramble, it being the only place in the immediate neighbourhood where country scenery can be enjoyed. After passing through a number of narrow, filthy lanes, you emerge into an extensive champaign, and have the liberty of wandering as far as health or inclination dictates.

The land is generally low, partially inundated by the tide waters, and devoted to the cultivation of rice, for which it is well adapted. Where its surface is not too level and saturated, it is arranged in terraces, and planted with a great variety of vegetables, ginger, a species of indigo, &.c. The fields are divided by ridges, which answer the purpose of walks, and are generally flagged with a coarse granite. With the exception of a very few scattered houses, the farmers reside in villages surrounded with walls. These villages we have often approached; though at times it has been necessary to avoid them, to keep without the reach of the stones and dirt with which the boys

occasionally annoyed us. Almost every piece of rising ground is consecrated to the burial of the dead, and the vast multitudes crowded together in these spacious cemetries proclaim the dominion of the king of terrors. We were interested in the examination of the bridges thrown across the natural and artificial streams; the strength of their materials, and firmness of their structure, appeared as though they had survived, and would long defy, the waste of ages. Some of the slabs of granite were twenty-four feet in length.

But the greatest object of curiosity is the large Pagan establishment belonging to the sect of Budh. It is situated near the margin of the river, is enclosed by a wall, and includes within its limits an area of many acres. On entering the gate the eye is arrested by a few majestic banyans, which appear to have withstood the storms of centuries, and found a congenial soil within these sacred precincts. Passing up a central walk, the avenue leads through two buildings, a short distance apart, in each of which are seated colossal figures, intended as warders to the temple. The countenance and attitude of some of them are intended to express the deepest rage. A little farther are two buildings, directly opposite to each other, to which flagged walks branch off from the main avenue. These contain a number of famous military demigods, one of whom has been adopted as the patron deity of the reigning family.

After this come successively three large halls, interrupting the central walk, and containing a variety of idols, of different dimensions and appearances. In one of them are seated three huge figures, designed to illustrate the triune manifestations of Budh,—the past, present, and future. Eighteen images, the disciples of Budh, are arranged on each side of the hall. " The Manchou Tartar family, on the throne of China," say its monarchs, " are these disciples of Budh appearing again on the stage of the world." Such are their ideas ofthe metempsychosis.

Each of these principal halls contains a number of ornamental pillars. Their roofs are generally made to project, with the low and convex sweep of primitive architecture, and decorated with grotesque monsters intended to represent dragons and lions.

Besides these principal buildings, there are others, situated on each side of the enclosed space, employed as cells for lodging, a dining apartment, idol halls, a printing room, pens for animals, and all that is necessary for the support of their worship and themselves. Their library contains books of many sizes and forms, chiefly prayers untranslated from the Pali, or sacred language.

No free-will offering to their gods is considered more acceptable than living domestic animals liberally supported till they die. These are most carefully preserved and feasted, until choked with fat, or worn out with age. The eyes of some of the hogs

are entirely concealed; a deep crevice indicates the place oftheir interment.

The whole number of priests belonging to the establishment is between one and two hundred. There is evidently a great distinction of ranks among them. Some are respectable in appearance, and much respected; others are clothed in rags, and beg about the streets of Canton.

We saw about seventy engaged in their daily devotions, in one of the largest halls. The youngest was about twelve years of age, and the eldest verging on threescore and ten. They were all dressed in their robes, and spent about an hour in droning their cabalistic words, aided and timed by the beat of metal vessels. During the hour, they were alternately kneeling, knocking their heads, standing, bowing, and walking in single file round the hall.

The whole spectacle was calculated to impress a feeling heart with compassion. It was deeply affecting to see so many, apparently in the last stage of this probationary existence, trusting to a delusion which, had impressed its own unmeaningness upon their countenances, while the younger ones were early imbibing the same stupifying lesson.

In all our rambles through the country and villages of Hainam, there has been nothing to discourage the hope, that, having the ability of communicating with the natives, we might tax our strength to the utmost in teaching them the " glad tidings of great joy."

E

For some days after our arrival we were visited by crowds of merchants and mechanics, whose object none could mistake. Of course their principal business is with our mercantile fellow-passengers. They generally understand a little English, but their vocabulary is so limited and corrupt that it is at first impossible to comprehend their meaning. With the exception of two or three, who have spent some time in England or America, there is probably not one of their number to whom even simple ideas expressed in correct diction would be intelligible. There must be a system of mutual accommodation, or nothing can be done with them.

Some of the most familiar vocables in this strange compound belong neither to correct Chinese, English, nor Portuguese, but are a corruption of each, with an admixture ofa few other words, said by philologists to be traceable to no language, living or dead. Many of our syllables have sounds to which their organs of speech have never been trained; and consequently, when uttered by them, they appear so unlike themselves as not to be recognised by their old and best acquaintance.

Their own idiom is retained in some cases, and a literal translation of words attempted, which, from the great difference of structure and figurative allusion in the two languages, would frequently convey to the mind of a novice any idea as readily as the one intended.

The appearance of these men, and of tlie Chinese in general, both male and female, differs in some respects from rny pre-conceived notions. Those peculiarities which are the most striking to the stranger are, the great variety of complexion, the general flatness of face and uniformity of features, and especially the strange formation of the eye, not only with its internal angle curved, as has been noticed by other writers, but with the lid in many cases so small as to appear unfit for its natural use. This last peculiarity is most remarkable among children. The lid appears unnaturally distended when the eye is open; at the same time it covers so much of the ball of the eye as to produce the impression that the latter is uncomfortably confined. With the exception of the occiput, the heads of the men are shaved : in that region, if its luxuriance will admit, it is permitted to grow until it comes in contact with their heels. In this province it is worn in a pendant plait; the cords with which it is interwoven frequently supplying the deficiency of its length. It is quite a comment on fashion—" old custom," as the Chinese term it—to compare with the popularity and prevalence of the one here described, the recency of its date and the reproach of its origin. Upon the Tartar conquest, not two centuries ago, the Chinese were compelled to adopt this style of wearing their hair, as a mark of subjugation. Many considered it such a disgrace that they preferred losing their heads to their hair:

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now it has become an ornament, and a mark of proud distinction.

The girls wear the long plait, after the fashion of the men, but do not shave the other parts ofthe head. After marriage the hair is braided upon the head, and decked with a profusion of flowers and jewels, according to the rank or means of the possessor. The ordinary style of dress of both sexes is nearly alike : it consists of loose pantaloons, and an over-garment, or robe, with long dangling sleeves, which varies in length from the knee to the ground. Their girdles, like those of the Jews, frequently answer the purpose of purses. Their stockings have no reference to the shape or size of the limbs; and their shoes have thick, clumsy soles, turning up in front, and destitute of that elasticity which gives a spring in walking.

CHAPTER IV.

CHINA — CONTINUED.

Having made these general remarks upon the country and its inhabitants, we pass on to relate a few of those incidents which occurred at the time, and which will give some idea of a residence in China. Two facts, however, must be borne in mind: the first is, that the writer did not immediately enter upon the duties of a foreign missionary, but devoted the chief part of his time to those who spoke his own language, at Canton and Whampoa. His first engagement was with the American-Seamen's Society. The second consideration is, that, during his residence at Canton, he knew nothing of the language, and was consequently unable to avail himself of those opportunities of usefulness which were almost daily presented. This will account for the dearth of that kind of intelligence which is to be found in most other missionary journals.

March lst.—Yesterday (Sabbath), pursuant to public notice, which is generally hung up on a small board before the factory, Divine service was performed in the large room of the building in which we reside.

This is the place where Dr. Morrison has been in the habit of preaching for the last two seasons. A chapel attached to the factory occupied by the English Company, is also open every Sabbath morning for the worship of God. Besides these, Dr. M. has a Chinese service every Lord's-day in his own room.

Among the number of our attendants was Ah-see, a Chinese known to many in America; who spent several years in the United States, was partially educated at Cornwall, and publicly professed the Christian faith in New York. How far he has maintained his Christian integrity I am unable to say. He is evidently familiar with " the speech of Canaan," but there is reason to fear that his long separation from all religious society and external restraints, has proved unfavourable to the progress of his personal piety. One unfavourable symptom is the distance at which he keeps from those who might be ofthe most service to him, as well as the apparent indifference with which he regards the condition of his countrymen. Still there may be some danger of judging uncharitably, as very little is known of his private life.

We met this evening at the room of Dr. M. for the monthly social prayer in behalf of missions. Though none were present but ourselves, it was gratifying to know that the voice of prayer, if begun by us, would not die, at least in the ears of the Lord, until thousands in other lands swelled the petition, and rolled it almost " the world around." One fact

encouraged us, with respect to the conversion of China. Whenever the Gospel gains access, it must have, according to all appearance, a speedy and wide circulation. There is no moral power to confront it. The religion of the empire is baseless; nothing appears to support it but one vast scaffold of ignorance, which, it is believed, can withstand no shock, and, when it yields, must bury the whole fabric in one common grave.

March 15th.—On Saturday Capt. Lavender came to town, with the intention of taking me with him in the afternoon to Whampoa; but this was prevented by a long-continued shower. I arose early on Sabbath morning, and reached the ship before breakfast. The Bethel flag soon waved in the breeze, and the silent invitation was answered by an unusually large number from the two American vessels in port.

This morning was spent in visiting two of the three islands contiguous to the shipping, and accessible to foreigners. They are known by the names of Whampoa, French, and Dane's Islands. Here, strangers enjoy the liberty of exercising their limbs, if they confine themselves within certain limits; and of burying their dead, if they comply with the exorbitant demands of the avaricious and calculating proprietors. Isa sufficient number are together, they may extend their ramble almost at pleasure; but the probability of defeat, or the fear of personal injury, is the only certain security from an attack by the

natives. The solitary adventurer is not always molested, but it is always wise to decline the experiment, since the younger part of the community are allowed by their parents to pelt him with stones and mud, and "children of a larger growth" are not backward to take from his pockets, or even from his person, whatever may tempt their avarice, or take their fancy. A short time since an imprudent stranger exposed himself to their cupidity, and was robbed of his watch.

It should not be concealed, that the conduct of sailors, permitted to enjoy their liberty on these islands, has been highly offensive to the Chinese. Maddened by the fumes of a vile liquor distilled from rice, and mixed, it is said, with poisonous ingredients, the crews of some of the ships have even gone to the extreme of sacrilege, assailing their very temples, and abusing their gods.

French island is a vast cemetry, where multitudes of natives and foreigners await the morning of the resurrection. Here are three groups of graves of foreigners, occupying different places, though but a short distance apart. The two most contiguous to the present anchorage are of recent date, and are principally those of Americans and English. The inscriptions on the tombs of the other group are in different languages, and refer you, with a few exceptions, to the past century. The majority were cut off in the morning of life—a solemn admonition to

thoughtless youth. It is singular, that those who fall from the ships, however expert they may be at swimming, and even accustomed to exercise that art in this very river, seldom rise to the surface, or are rescued from the grasp of death. Some attribute this to an under-current of resistless power; but those who are in the habit of diving for pleasure experience no difficulty in rising to the surface. Many a mound is pointed out where sleep the bodies of those who were healthy, gay, unapprehensive of their change, the very moment before it occurred. In the midst of cheerful conversation there was an abrupt pause—a sudden plunge—an awful eternity.

Those foreigners who die at Canton are generally interred on this island; and it appears that Death has been peculiarly triumphant during the last year. One of our party, who had just returned from a trading voyage, read the epitaph of two of his acquaintance, to whom he bade adieu one year ago in perfect health. The first intimations of their death he received, with astonishment, within a short distance of their mouldering remains.

Besides the number of strangers who have found their grave in this heathen land, many of the hills are repositories of deceased natives. The sepulchres of the rich and great are generally constructed of hewn stone, in a semi-circular or horse-shoe form, corresponding in appearance to the previous rank or circumstances of the lowly tenant. Some of

e 5

them are quite ornamental to the hill on which they are placed.

According to the superstitious custom of the Chinese, they have just been paying their annual visit to their departed relatives; repairing the tombs; decorating the surrounding spot with coloured papers; offering sacrifices to their manes; and attending to numerous rites, which they conceive to be becoming in the living, and not only gratifying to the dead, but quite necessary to their comfort. The more wealthy erect, on these occasions, booths on the hills, assemble their kindred, prepare a sumptuous entertainment, provide candles, incense, gold and silver paper, suits of clothes, and other articles; which, being converted by the operation of fire into smoke, pass, they imagine, into the world of spirits. Then they kneel, and pray to this effect: " We, a multitude of children, grand-children, and other descendants, now—on such a day—have come hitherto worship at our ancestors' tumuli. We pray, that, by the protection of our ancestors, we may become prosperous, and that their descendants may be constantly supported." At this season the bones are removed, if the body is supposed to occupy an inauspicious place. Even those who profess to believe the doctrine of spiritual annihilation, or metempsychosis, are among the most scrupulous in their offerings to the dead.

It appears to be a very prevailing opinion that the spirit, or one of the spirits—as they believe in a

plurality—continues in the vicinity of the dispossessed body; that the sympathy between them remains almost as perfect as before their separation; and that the comfort of the living agent is materially affected by the regard shewn to it, or to its decaying companion, by earthly relatives. The idea of having none to sacrifice at their tombs, and supply them with such things as they are supposed to need in the invisible state, is abhorrent to a Chinaman.

One great inducement for keeping up these ceremonies with so much apparent zest, is the scene of feasting and revelry which ensues. If the description applies with peculiar emphasis to any people in the world, " whose God is their belly," it does to the Chinese. This is the exhaustless theme of their conversation. " Have you eaten? " is one of the most common and polite salutations among them; and the reputation of a good liver appears to excite both the envy and respect of their less favoured countrymen.

We visited a sugar establishment on the island of Whampoa. The simplicity and cheapness of the works were highly characteristic of Chinese taste and policy. The mill, which expresses the liquor from the cane, was composed of three vertical cylinders, made of a coarse granite, with wooden cogs. The coppers, as boilers are termed in other sugar-growing countries of less primitive predilections, were made of cast iron, which they have the art of reducing almost to

the texture of common paper, and of welding, when cracked or broken, with entire facility and firmness. These were arranged triangularly, and with little apparent regard to those principles of granulation which are elsewhere adopted. That nothing might reduce the quantum of manual labour, where hands and mouths are so numerous and wages so low, the mill was placed below the level ofthe boilers, and the liquor carried in tubs from the one to the other. As it attained its consistence in each of these vessels, instead of being passed through a strainer into thc next, it was transferred by hand to another part of the building, whence, after the process of filtration, it was returned to its appropriate caldron.

The Chinamen were very civil and obliging. They gathered round; invited us to gratify our curiosity and palates; and, presuming on equal liberties,amused themselves in examining our persons and dress. Every article of apparel was scrutinized, and when the eye was not sufficiently discriminating, the aid of the fingers was called in. Here again we have had repeated opportunities of intercourse with the natives, and, had we known the language, might have turned it to the best account.

March 20th.—Our attention has been frequently arrested by processions passing through the streets. Sometimes they are the retinue of men of distinction, whose approach is announced by a herald beating a gong in a peculiar manner; and who move about with

all the display of badges, servants, and equestrian attendants, of which their civil and literary rank will admit. The sumptuary laws of the empire forbid that parade of mere wealth which is common in other countries, although the liberty of purchasing nominal titles and immunities gives nearly as much importance to wealth as though such a statute was not in existence. One thing, however, detracts from that conscious security in his possessions which the man of property enjoys under the laws of Christian lands : there are offices above the nominal rank to which wealth can raise its possessor; and these offices are frequently filled by men who, with the love of money and contempt of justice so common in China, can generally manage to stock their own coffers at the expense of their unprotected neighbours. Occasions can be seized upon where they exist, or feigned where they have no existence, by the skilful management of which these officers of injustice can effect their most avaricious and nefarious purposes.

But to return from this digression.—The processions most worthy of remark are either designed for religious, hymeneal, or funeral occasions. Were it not for a few characteristic objects in one part of the train, it would be impossible for a stranger to determine whether it was designed to honour the gods, feast the living, or gratify the dead. The appearance of the attendants, the style of the music, the

ornaments, and the eatables, are generally the same.

Some of their burials exhibit a great shew of mourning; but as this is known to be the custom in China, and to be connected with other established usages—such as preserving the body of the deceased until the ordinary fountain of grief is staunched, and calling to their assistance " such as are skilful of lamentation"—it fails to excite the sympathy due to genuine sorrow. The greatest ceremony is made at the funeral of a parent, when the nearest male relative walks immediately behind the body, and is obliged to be supported in the phrensy of his professed grief. The death of a wife is considered a matter of much less importance : the husband on that occasion walks in an erect posture, and with an air of comparative indifference.

The mourning habit is something ofa light brown, with a napkin of the same colour tied round the head. Sackcloth is often worn. The mourner, if not too poor, keeps himself in deep retirement for a hundred days; the beard and hair are allowed to grow, and other acts of cleanliness and comfort are dispensed with: all this being designed to shew the absorption of his grief, and, consequently, his estimate of the loss he has sustained. Among the Chinese, the death of a father or mother disqualifies a son for office for three years; the Tartars mourn a hundred days.

The bridal palanquin and paraphernalia designate the marriage procession. The former is exceedingly gaudy, and, I believe, employed only on this occasion; the latter is said to be the only dowry of the females. It consists of furniture, apparel, wines, eatables, and, at times, boxes of money. Of course the profusion and splendour vary according to the capacity ofthe father's purse and heart. The palanquin is generally attended by a few females, the "handmaids " of the enclosed; but so closely is it shut on every side, that it is impossible, by any contrivance, to catch a glimpse of the contents. The same ignorance is the misery of the bridegroom, when he beholds the vehicle approaching, and reflects that it contains the unknown companion of his future life.

The largest procession I have yet seen, passed to-day. Its object was religious, in commemoration of the birth-day of one of their gods—probably a deified hero. To describe it would be difficult; to imagine it the product of a rational mind, for any rational purpose, still more so; but to believe it the effort of an immortal spirit to secure the favour of One who has the disposal of its eternal happiness, almost impossible.

Among the objects which principally attracted our attention, were small temples fantastically decorated, and furnished with gilded images; pageants resembling open palanquins, and filled with roasted pigs, ornamented fruits, cakes, and flowers; boys and girls

arrayed, on horseback—-the first, children of wealthy parents, who represent official attendants upon the gods; the second, holding the sacred vessels of their altars, and acting as priestesses;— groups of lads on foot, occupying different places in the procession, and each company wearing a distinct uniform; bands of musicians, both aged and young, with gongs, drums, tamborines, cymbals, stringed and wind instruments; besides a large number of coolies, in almost every colour and style of dress, each furnished with a religious tablet, or ornament of some kind. The tout ensemble was not unlike the display, on a day of general militia muster, in some ofthe populous towns in America, when the different companies, arrayed in their peculiar uniform, down to the unmilitary ragamuffins, as multiform in their dress as in their arms, join in one general parade, and lend all that is imposing—at least in variety—to the long-drawn and ludicrous spectacle. The resemblance is even more striking in the spirit than in the appearance of these two motley groups, convened for such different objects. If the Chinese had been enraged at their deity, and intended this as a public expression of their contempt, it would have been more in character. Such is the phrensy of the human mind, without the restraining and renewing powers of the Holy Spirit.

March 25th.—Dr. Moirison sent for us this evening, to meet Leang Asa at his rooms. This man,

as is generally known, is among the first-fruits of the mission to China; and if the promise respecting the Jews be applicable to the Chinese, and the multitude composing " the lump " be individually as holy as "the first-fruits," we may expect a glorious harvest from this neglected part of the Saviour's promised vineyard. Since his conversion he has been greatly persecuted, and is daily " counted worthy to suffer shame for His name." Active and undaunted in the service of his Master, he has been seized, imprisoned, spoiled of his goods, and scourged. His daily business, notwithstanding the rage of his enemies and the revilings of his friends, is to preach and teach Jesus Christ " from house to house." He appears to possess the spirit of a martyr; and we have reason to hope is prepared, if necessary, to meet a martyr's death. The feelings he expressed, in welcoming us as missionaries to his benighted country, were awakened in our bosoms at the sight of one in whom appeared so distinctly the image of the Saviour.

He read the tenth chapter of Luke in Chinese, and explained, with much propriety, the passage respecting the harvest and labourers. The interview was closed by a solemn and earnest petition, in his own language; which, before rising from our knees, was translated for our edification by Dr. M., and offered to "the same Lord over all." We were told, that all his prayers are so different from the

set phraseology of the formalist, and so feelingly adapted to circumstances, that they carry with them the evidence of their origin and sincerity *.

April 2d.—One of the most popular amusements in China, and one which forces itself upon our attention at this season, is the drama. On walking abroad, if the eyes are allowed their wonted liberty, we are sure to see it: at home, if the ears retain the same freedom, itself or its accompaniments will infallibly be heard.

Stages are annually erected in the most public and spacious openings of the streets, and frequently on the ground of wealthy citizens. When the exhibition is intended for the amusement of the public, the expenses, it is said, are defrayed by the inhabitants of that district. The rich engage these actors for the entertainment of themselves and their families; to do honour to their guests; and sometimes simply to ensure success in their temporal affairs, as they strangely connect prosperity in business with these and many other equally silly performances. These exhibitions are frequently intended for the honour and gratification of their gods. The squares

• Others have been successively associated with Leang Asa, and his last report mentions that " there are upwards of ten of us, who, with one heart and united minds, continue to serve the Lord, and practise the holy doctrines of the Gospel. Every Sabbath-day we assemble together, to praise the Saviour for the mighty grace of the redemption."

belonging to some of the temples are the places most commonly selected, and the scenes are sometimes kept up for seven successive days and nights.

The opinion they entertain of the objects of their adoration and trust may be gathered from the pieces introduced for their amusement. Many of them are of a tragic character, founded upon ancient chronicles, and designed to perpetuate the notable events of the empire. That these should be grateful to the deified heroes to whom the temples are dedicated, and who were the chief actors in the scenes described, is a natural conclusion. But what ideas must they have of the moral character of these honoured beings, if they believe that their attempts at comedy, buffoonery, and gross obscenity, are approved of and acceptable ?

The inconsistencies and puerilities which are found in these productions are also very glaring. How the spectators can not only endure such childish tricks, but admire them, must be a source of wonder to those who regard the nation as advanced beyond the mere vaunt of superiority in taste and attainments.

Their music is, in our estimation, totally deficient of instrumental harmony. They are fond of sounds, have a variety of instruments, and practise sufficiently to become proficients; but either all our ideas on the subject are wrong, or there is very little musical talent or taste in the nation. Their instruments are in general differently constructed from ours, and the musicians are not unfrequently lads, who appear in

a great measure to consult their own childish whims in the manner and pauses of their performances. In the music which is generally heard at their processions, one is strongly inclined to doubt whether any thing is aimed at beyond mere noise; and their most popular tunes, when performed by practised men, have little in them that strikes pleasantly upon the ear of any but Chinamen. The gong is generally produced on every occasion which calls for music, and there are many ceremonies, both secular and religious, in which it is considered the only appropriate instrument. Its loud vibratory sounds, according to the usual mode of beating it, though considered agreeable by some, appear to me to be on a par with the tones ofa cracked bell, and scarcely so mellifluous.

June 24th.—One of the annual festivals has been celebrated to-day; and the confusion of a holiday crowd, the noise of guns, crackers, gongs, and drums; and the display of streamers and ornaments of almost every gaudy colour, have fatigued the senses, and rendered the shades and silence of night peculiarly grateful. It is in commemoration of the death of a statesman of high respectability, who, faithful to the office entrusted to him, was so sensitive to the slanderous misrepresentations of his enemies, that he threw himself into a river, and was drowned. His name was Watune, and the event is asserted to have taken place about two thousand three hundred years ago.

There is a custom connected with the observance of this anniversary which proves a source both of amusement and danger, and with which the populace are so captivated that personal safety and legislative prohibitions are alike disregarded. They have long narrow shallops, curiously constructed for the occasion, which they term dragon-boats—probably from their serpent-like appearance—and with which they pretend to explore the rivers and creeks for the undiscovered bodies ofthe ancients. These contain from sixty to a hundred men, furnished with paddles, which they time to the beat ofthe gong and drum, and with which they drive them forward with great velocity. We have heard of no accident to-day, although not unfrequently the scene is closed by a tragedy. It is the custom to try the comparative speed of the boats, and, inflamed with the spirit of rivalry and the fumes of samshoo, they sometimes come in contact, and convert their paddles into weapons of death. Two years ago, besides running down a number of boats and drowning men and women, one of them was upset, and eighteen perished.

Various superstitious customs are observed on this day. The mechanics and shopkeepers suspend their labours, and too frequently indulge in feasting and licentiousness.

August 9th, 1830.—After a visit of nearly three weeks at Macao, we are again bending our course towards the scene of our present labours. With the

exception ofa prison, it would probably be difficult to find a better preparation (or the enjoyment of verdant scenery, invigorating breezes, bodily recreation, and female society, than a residence at Canton.

We engaged an English sailing-boat manned by Lascars*, and, favoured with a fine breeze, in less than twenty-four hours reached our destination. The time has passed rapidly and agreeably, between the improvement of opportunities for usefulness, and the enjoyment of those advantages which are conducive to health. Besides the usual morning service, ordinarily conducted by Dr. Morrison, an evening lecture was also held at his house. The attendance much exceeded expectation, though it was something of a novelty— probably the first Protestant preaching ever attended on the Lord's-day evening, in the empire of China. Though in itself of comparatively small importance, it opens a delightful vista into the future, and discloses to tbe eye of faith an extended scene of gathering, attentive, and praising multitudes, filling the thousand temples of Jehovah which shall soon stud this land, and scarcely capable of realizing the moral night which shrouds our present post of observation, and through which nothing but the lamp of prophecy sheds the faintest ray.

That such a prospect should be considered a wild fancy by a large proportion of mankind, who look

• Lascars are native sailors from Bengal, or other parts of India Proper.

only at things as they appear, and overlook the determination and ability of Jehovah to make them appear otherwise, cannot be wonderful to those who know the influence of the senses upon the mind, and who could have seen the spectacle of idolatry which we witnessed during our visit at Macao.

As a remedy to the declension of trade and the destructive fires with which the nation has been recently visited, a famous geomancer recommended the erection ofa new temple, to be dedicated to the "god of wealth, the god of the north, and the god of fire." A subscription was opened for the purpose, and the individual contributions varied from one to one thousand dollars. A splendid Pagan procession passed through the streets for ten successive days. It was composed, each day, of distinct classes of persons, belonging to a particular trade or neighbourhood. Each party defrayed their own expenses, and seemed to aim at eclipsing the pomp of their predecessors. Being an object of engrossing interest and not very frequent occurrence, it enlisted among its attendants many persons from those classes of the community which, it is said, seldom honour the gods with their presence. As usual, there was a number of bands of music, some of which were volunteer companies of respectability; but never do I recollect to have heard such grating, deafening tones, from instruments designed for human gratification or human endurance.

Among the great variety of objects intended to give effect to some of the processions, were young girls, apparently standing in the air, at least with no other visible support than the decayed branch of a bush, held, by some, at arm's length from the body, and furnishing to others a perch for their diminutive feet. In the one case, the branch appeared too feeble to sustain the weight of the body, even if the muscles of the arm were capable of such an effort; and, in the other, it afforded no surface on which to balance the person, even if the vehicle beneath had been stationary. The probability is that there was a communication of wire, or something sufficiently tenuous and strong, painted in imitation of decayed branches, inclosing the body and fastened to the platform which was carried beneath them. Their loose flowing robes were well calculated to favour the illusion.

In one ofthe processions was a large, hideous figure, made of painted paper, and designed to materialize their fancy of what they term lung, or the dragon. This creature, or deity, or both—for their systems recognise no distinction—is supposed to exert a mighty influence in the regions of the air. It is thought to answer, in some respects, to the Python of the Greeks—certainly the locality and prevalence of its dominions is strikingly analogous to the "dragon, that old serpent" of the true faith. Its length of volume, which probably exceeded one hundred feet, was supported by a number of men beneath, and

partly within it, who held it upon poles, and gave the huge monster, as it passed, the sinuous motion of its genus. The day closed, or rather the night was spent, in the performance of plays before the temple. A temporary stage was erected for the occasion, and the court richly illuminated with clusters of glass chandeliers. Such is the solemnity and reasonableness of pagan worship !

We are now returning, in a large native boat, by what is termed the Inside Passage. Vast meadows intersected by rivers and creeks, and bounded by irregular ranges of naked hills, extend in some places as far as the eye can reach. These are all covered with paddy. What a beneficent provision is there in these extensive and irrigated lands for the rice-eating millions of China !

A light breeze bears us along, while village after village rises to view, and recedes in the distance. There is very little in the general aspect of the country, or in any of its isolated objects, to awaken regret at the impossibility of landing. The site of the villages is generally low and level: some of them are flanked by hills, sacred to the gods and the dead, and all (at least through our present medium, a heated atmosphere and languid eyes) destitute of any attractions, and even without an air of comfort. The houses are generally small; built of stone, mud, and brick; and presenting a dull uniformity of appearance.

Clumps of trees and patches of verdure give a rural

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aspect to some spots; the margin of the river in some places is lined with fruit trees, principally the shadach; but the population appear so poor, and their habits so filthy, that they neutralize all the attractions of the inanimate beauties around them.

We were obliged to stop at Heong-shan, the principal village between Canton and Macao, where our passes and baggage were examined. Before the custom-house officers arrived, the water population crowded round us, and endeavoured, by all the force of pantomimic argument, to obtain alms from us.

Large pagodas surmounting the tops of some of the highest hills and others of minor altitude, but generally upon the principal elevation in the vicinity, bring forcibly to mind the denounced idolatry of ancient days. How animating the prospect, that "these high places shall be removed," and " the mountain of the Lord's house shall be established on the tops of these very mountains ! "

August 27th.—Within the past week we have visited two of the dwellings of the hong merchants, situated in the village of Hainam. They are interesting as specimens ofthe style of living among the most wealthy classes of the nation. They consist, in general, of a group of buildings, of different dimensions and compartments, covering a large area, adorned with gardens and small lakes or ponds of water. Around the ponds, and in them, were artificial rocks, in striking imitation of nature; while the

beautiful water lily (Nelumbium) spread its broad leaves above and upon the surface of the waters. With the exception of a few detached retreats, these buildings, though they branch off in various directions, are connected by small enclosed avenues. The private apartments, accessible only by these narrow passages, allow of retirement to the family, and secrecy for scenes of carousal, even when the more public halls are open for the reception of strangers. One suite of apartments is fitted up for the women, another for guests. With one or two exceptions, the rooms are by no means spacious, but gaudily, and some of them richly, furnished. The chairs and tables are large and massive ■ and almost every room has at least two couches, with a table between them, designed for a luxurious tete-a-tete.

But the ornamental objects are the most attractive. Painted and intagliated walls, chandeliers, lamps, a variety of natural and artificial curiosities and ancient relics, are displayed to as much advantage as possible. Some of the specimens of coin and ware are very ancient; and the large vases, formerly used for idolatrous purposes, very costly. One of the rooms was fitted up and furnished as a domestic chapel. Incense was burnt before a painted figure, intended to represent the tutelar deity of the house. We have referred to the custom of putting up tablets in the houses at the demise of parents, and other near relatives : it is thought that one of the three spirits, which their

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books assign to each person, abides near this tablet,. and is refreshed and gratified by the offerings which are daily made to it.

The proprietor of one of the houses invited us to the ceremony of burying his mother, which is to take place during the approaching week. The body has been preserved above ground for a year, or more; and now, for the first time since her death, the precise place and hour of interment have presented themselves to the imaginations of the deceiving, and probably deluded, priests*. Our host mentioned that one ofthe principal hong merchants had a number of his deceased relatives unburied, some of whom had been kept thirty years waiting for the lingering auspicious hour. This is said to be contrary to the laws of the empire; but superstition has no law, especially when protected by the strong arm of pecuniary power. That many, who are guilty of this offence, have the same controul ofthe law as the one referred to, is evident from the fact that in January 1830 there were reported to be ten thousand coffined bodies in Canton not interred f.

August 31st, 1830.—Within the past week the most gaudy pageants and brilliant illuminations have cheered the darkness of the night. Large boats,

• The ceremony was afterwards performed, in a splendid manner. Kindred, friends, and spectators, from all the surrounding country, met and offered sacrifices to the deceased. The expense incurred was not less than ten thousand dollars.—Can. Register.

t Canton Register.

adorned with variegated lamps, have passed the city in a long line, for a number of successive evenings*. The lights were arranged in horizontal rows around the hulls of the vessels, at such distances as to combine something of the effect of a glowing sheet of flame with that of innumerable inlaid gems, each shedding a lustre far more vivid and sparkling than their rich ground-work. From these rows there were others branching above in different directions, and forming different figures. The music, accompanied— or rather silenced—by the crashing gong, was in striking contrast with the taste displayed in gratifying the sense of vision. But such strains, they pretend, are more grateful to their ears than the finest strains of European harmony.

Last evening a ceremony was performed before the factories which combined all the whims of superstition with some of the sacrificial rites observed of old by Divine appointment. A large quantity of tinsel paper, covered with a thin leaf of gold or silver, was consumed amid rows of lamps and incense-sticks, to supply the wants of departed spirits. This paper is cut or formed in imitation of houses, garments, sedan-chairs, boats, horses, and whatever articles of necessity or luxury the deceased is imagined to require. It is supposed to pass by the process of fire into the world of spirits, and to be there, by some

• These are often hymeneal processions. Whether they ever have a religious object I was unable to discover.

unaccountable means, converted into money, and whatever else is required *. The real wardrobe is often consumed for the same purpose. Under the influence of a kindred and equally extravagant superstition, it is customary for suicides and criminals to array themselves in their best apparel in the immediate prospect of death, believing that the spirit appears in the invisible world with the same advantages of dress that decked the body at the hour of separation.

Besides these offerings, a table was spread with meat, fruit, and wine—no doubt originally intended for a feast upon a sacrifice, but now perverted to the gross purpose of feeding the spirits of the departed f. One of the most respectable servants, arrayed in his best suit, kneeled before the table, poured out a libation of wine, and bowed his head to the ground a number of times; then, taking the offerings spread before him on the table, he threw a portion of the fruits to the waiting spectators, and passed the rest to the servants of the house.

• " The burning of paper (for religious purposes) appears to have been adopted immediately after the abolition of human sacrifices, on the death of Che-hwang-te, who died about one hundred and fifty years before Christ, when he caused his domestics to be put to death and interred with him, to attend on him in a future state. At present, the consumption of paper, which is annually used on all religious occasions, is very considerable, and forms an extensive branch of trade in China."—Indo-Chinese Gleaner, vol. ii. p. 36.

-"- When laughed at for their folly, and having the evidence of more than one of the senses that the offerings remain, they will often pretend that the flavour, or at least those qualities ofthe food which nourish the spirit, is extracted.

For several days service has been performed in a temporary building at the head of China-Street, by some priests of the Budh sect. The stage on which they stood was elevated above the heads of the people, and was hung around with large paintings. Before these figures—no doubt intended to represent their male and female deities—the priests, arrayed in their pontificals, stood, and, holding a paper in their hands, mumbled their orisons, in a style that left no reason to wonder at the striking resemblance, noticed by the Roman Catholic missionaries, to " the holy manners " oftheir church. This ceremony is a grand annual mass for the benefit of those souls that have no relatives to pray for their release from misery and transition into happiness. It corresponds, in many most striking particulars, to the " manners " referred to, and probably had the same origin.

September 21st.—For several days they have been preparing some of the principal streets for a festival in honour of the deity who presides over fire, and as a thank-offering for preserving the city from its desolations. He is represented with a frightful countenance, and a long, flaming beard. To-night the noise of instruments and voices announced the commencement of the ceremonies, and summoned multitudes of spectators to the scene.

The principal street was arched over, from the top of the houses, with cloth of such a texture as to

prevent the rain, which was falling at the time, from interrupting their proceedings. Beneath the archway were suspended glass chandeliers, variegated lamps, cloth festoons ofthe most gaudy colours, small illuminated boats furnished and peopled, with a great variety of other ornaments, all tastefully arranged, and glowing with a dazzling brilliance. At each end of the street a stage was erected, with carved or painted images in an alcove, and with lighted tapers and ornamented cakes standing before them. Musicians were seated on these stages, who accompanied their noisy instruments with harsh vociferations. To amuse the crowd, or gratify the gods, or both, men were engaged in exhibiting feats of manual and pedestrian dexterity.

September 22d.—The noise of instruments and voices continued during the greater part of the night. In extending my walk beyond the limits visited last evening, I found that a number of streets were arrayed in the same style as the one described. A splendid temple had been erected at the intersection of three of the streets, with a large stage, on which were displayed a profusion of ornamental and sacred vases, with pictures, an altar, and tapers. The sides of this temporary pavilion, above the heads of the crowd, were composed of several stories, filled with images representing land and water scenery, and depicting the martial feats of their heroes, and the

amusements oftheir gentry. Enclosed within a paling were large figures, intended probably as representations of certain species of men and beasts, but which have no originals in nature. The frightful distortions of countenance by which the Chinese intend (no doubt) to express something extremely magnanimous or superhuman, and especially the flame-coloured beard, marked out the principal image to be the object of their present devotions.

The street running parallel with China-Street, in many respects eclipsed the array of its rival. Through the whole length of it were suspended, from the archway above, a great diversity of beautiful cars, containing male and female figures, decked in robes of natural flowers. Had it not been for the heavy odour exhaled from these gay garments, it would scarcely have been suspected that they were not the product of delicate and laborious fingers. Even some of the old residents had always mistaken them for artificial decorations.

The performance on the stage was continued throughout the day, and swelled to an almost deafening clangour towards evening. The crowd became so dense in tbe street of flowers, that, after toiling with difficult progress, and descrying in the perspective nothing but well-stowed heads, I halted for a short time, and returned. Before leaving this scene of confusion, I had a fair opportunity of judging of

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the merits of one of their popular ballad-singers, and I certainly saw no reason to change the opinion I had formed of the powers and taste of Chinese vocalists. Of all grimaces and noises ever seen or heard, nothing but the wildest buffoonery could equal this. He stretched his mouth to the utmost tension of its elastic muscles; raised his voice to its most unnatural and grating key; and, after a number of long-drawn shrieks and quavers, exerted it to a pitch as thrilling as though he felt determined to close either his own lips or our ears in perpetual silence. It was necessary to hear the effort, and see the listening concourse, to believe that such tortured faces and torturing sounds could ever be endured. Another, whom I unfortunately encountered yesterday, left such a stamp of his ludicrous appearance upon my imagination, as I fear will haunt me for some time to come.

25th.—This morning, the fifth day from its commencement, the splendid scene closed. The revel was kept up all last night; and he who could gaze upon the living mass which it assembled, especially after the labourer was released from his daily task, and not feel the deepest compassion for the ignorance and infatuation of the nation, must himself be as truly pitiable as those whom he cannot pity.

An intelligent Chinaman mentioned, that a priest belonging to the temple of the god whose tutelage

they thus gratefully acknowledged for the past and implored for the future, made it his business to go round every day and take notes of the manner in which the rites were conducted. At the close of the ceremonies these are all carefully written on one piece of paper, and passed into the invisible world, for the information of the god, "altogether such an one as themselves."

CHAPTER V.

CHINA—-CONTINUED.

The dark places of the earth are full of the habitations of cruelty.

To give an adequate idea of the various and complicated miseries existing in China, would be to fill a volume. Female infanticide, we have reason to believe, is very common. It is thought, by some of the best Chinese scholars, to be greatly increased, if not altogether produced, by their philosophical notions respecting the origin and continuance of all things. There are two powers of nature, according to their books, on the regular action of which the harmony of the universe, both physical and moral, depends. Excess or defect in either power, deranges the system of nature, and introduces disorder in the affairs of mankind*. One of them they consider to be of the masculine gender, the other of the feminine; and the difference between the two, as great asbe

• They believe that originally there was but one eternal principle, which was merely the first link of a great material chain, neither distinct from the universe nor endued with any moral perfections. They represent this first cause, this first link of the

tween the "vis mobile" and the "vis inertiæ" of the old philosophers.

• To what extent the inhuman practice of infanticide prevails in China, we have no means of determining. In the imperial city, after deducting more than one half for natural deaths, the number of exposed infants is, according to Barrow, about four thousand a year.

Some of the scenes he witnessed while at Pekin were almost incredible. Before the carts go round in the morning to pick up the bodies of infants thrown into the streets—amounting to about four-and-tvventy every night—dogs and swine are let loose upon them. The bodies of those found are carried to a common pit without the city walls, in which the living and the dead are thrown together. This, however, is a small proportion, compared with other places.

In some provinces not one in three is suffered to live; and in others, as the writer has been informed by the Chinese from those places, the difference between the male and the female population is as one to ten. We believe the last statement applies only to the poorest parts of the empire.

chain, by a circle; but as they feel it difficult to account, from what they see in nature, for all the absurdities which present themselves on the supposition of a simple homogeneous body acting on itself, they suppose, that, when the system of nature assumed its present-form, the one eternal principle was divided, and became two powers; which is represented by a figure of a circle divided in two by a waving line across the centre.—See IndoChinese Gleaner, vol. iii. page 2.

"The most prevalent mode of effecting this crime is by suffocation; which is done by means of a piece of paper, dipped in vinegar, laid over the face ofthe child, so as to prevent it from breathing either by means of its mouth or nostrils. It is said to be frequently done to the aged and afflicted, to cut the brittle thread of life *."

Infanticide is almost exclusively limited to the female sex; and the condition of that class of the community, when spared, is an evidence, as well as a cause, of the real barbarity and misery of the nation.

A writer on China, after quoting a large portion of one of their moral works, on the inferiority and treatment of females, makes the following remarks: "The very dependent and degraded state of females in China may be partly seen from this extract. They are, moreover, not allowed the confidence of their husbands, nor to sit at table with them, nor to have a voice in domestic concerns, nor to visit the temples, where the prayers of the unfortunate are supposed to find access. Religion is denied them. Little attention seems to be paid to the peculiar circumstances in which, as wives and mothers, they may be placed. ' Rise; run; work; eat little; spend little; be silent; keep out of sight; obey; bear; and rather bleed, starve, and die, than dare to complain,

• Indo-Chinese Gleaner, vol. iii. page 193.

is the genuine language of the above extract. Though fortunately for them, humanity, common sense, and interest, in many cases, plead in their favour, and procure a relaxation of the rigour of ethical and legislative restrictions, yet, where such restrictions have the sanction both of public opinion and of supreme authority, how is it possible to prevent their hurtful operation on this tender half of human nature ? * "

Without education, crippled from infancy, closely immured, married without their consent—in some instances even sold by their parents—and often treated most unfeelingly by the relatives and the other wives of their husbands, we cannot wonder at the frequent suicides among them, nor at their attempts to poison those by whom all their happiness and hopes are spoiled.

The poverty of the lower classes turns to their account, in the exemption it secures from the barbarous custom of compressing the feet, and in the necessity it enjoins of performing laborious work, and thus escaping the imprisonment to which their superiors are doomed.

But suffering by the hand of cruelty is not confined to the female sex in China. In the present constitution of society, there is scarcely any security for property or life in the empire. Some of the laws are unjust; others perverted to the most nefarious purposes. The innocent are often made to suffer for,

• Indo-Chinese Gleaner.

and with, the guilty; and the mandarines have it in their power to dispose of those beneath them according to their pleasure. Hence the oppression and extortions under which the nation has long groaned. Contrary to all the laws of civilized lands, they consider each as guilty, who might possibly be involved in the crime committed, until he proves his innocence. This accounts for that most unreasonable and most cruel custom of examining by torture. The innocent are thus frequently confounded with the guilty; or, if capable of resisting the dreadful temptation of accusing themselves falsely, are often made to suffer beyond the demerit of the criminal *.

• " On every occasion they torture by pulling or twisting round the ears (the torturer having previously rendered his fingers rough by a powder), and cause the sufferer to kneel a long while upon chains. They next employ what they call the beauty's bar—(the breast, small of the back, and legs bent up, are fastened to three cross bars, which causes the person to kneel in great pain);—the parrot's beam—(the prisoner is raised from the ground by strings round the fingers and thumbs, suspended from a supple transverse beam);—the refiningfuruace—(fire is applied to the body);—and other implements, expressed by other terms. If these do not force confession, they double the cruelties; till the criminal faints, and is restored to life again, several times in a day. Prisoners unable to sustain these agonies are often compelled to sign a confession of crimes, of winch, after death, many of them are proved guiltless. The cruelties exercised by the local magistrates cannot be described; and the various police runners are equally ingenious in forming plans to enrich themselves. In criminal cases (as murder and robbery), in debts, and affrays, they endeavour to involve all who appear to have the slightest connexion with the matter, that they may obtain bribes from them for the purchase of their liberty. These petty officers load their captives with fetters, until they cannot stir an inch, and release them only on receiving a large sum. Their sufferings are daily accumulated, until death is the consequence."—Indo-Chinese Gleaner, vol. i.

Their modes of punishment, when guilt is proved, and especially in criminal cases, are often shocking in the extreme. Strangling and beheading are so common that scarcely any notice is taken of them. "More than a thousand criminals suffer death annually in the province of Canton. A learned Chinese says that a hundred, on an average, are put to death by law in the province every month."

"In the close of 1816 there were, in the various prisons of the Chinese empire, ten thousand two hundred and seventy criminals convicted of capital offences, and awaiting the imperial order to carry into effect the sentence of death. Some men, from their sufferings in prison—which is generally so loathsome and horrible a place that it is called " hell"—cannot support themselves in the position required. At night they are chained to inclined boards, on which they sleep. Cleanliness is neglected; and their dungeons become offensive and unhealthful in the highest degree. Money can procure some alleviation; and the prisoners of long standing attack in the most ferocious manner those unhappy persons who have newly entered. They seize them by their arms and legs, toss them, beat them, and bite them, to extort money from them*'." The most heinous offences are visited with inflictions of the most refined and exquisite cruelty. Crucifixion, cutting to pieces, and every species of slow and painful execution, is employed.

• Gleaner.

CHAPTER VI.

CHINA—CONTINUED.

From the last date to the time of his departure, the journal ofthe writer is principally filled with details of the religious services of his fellow-missionary and himself, among the residents at Canton and the seamen at Whampoa. As Mr. Bridgman uniformly took part in all the public duties ofthe Sabbath, we were enabled to supply both places with very little interruption *. A transcript has been published by the American Seamen's Society.

It may not be out of place here to repeat, that his object was to ascertain the practicability of having a seamen's chaplain stationed at this important mart of commerce, and that the short experiment fully sanctioned the benevolent plan. During this limited period, many facts of no ordinary interest occurred,

• Besides the study of the language, which necessarily occupies much of Mr. B.'s time, he has about half a dozen promising Chinese lads under his instruction, who have been submitted by their parents to his entire controul, and dwell in the factory with him. One of them is the son of Leang Asa. Let those interested in the conversion of China pray that these youths may become Christians, and teachers of their countrymen.

which proclaimed the necessity of carrying on the work commenced, and the readiness of a merciful Saviour to bless the endeavour.

It is affecting to consider what multitudes, who leave their homes in health and hope, find a grave upon these heathen shores. Numbers every season are buried from the shipping; and some ofthe most promising in health, and prosperous in their calling, have been this year unexpectedly summoned to their last account. It was delightful to find many, of different nations, mingling in the worship of the "same Lord over all," and so favourably impressed with the value of spiritual blessings, as to request that their respective ships might be made the temporary chapel.

The only thing necessary to make the station one of the most important in foreign lands, is a permanent and commodious place of worship, where all may have the opportunity of attending, and which may afford the chaplain every advantage in pursuing his labours.

In addition to the claims of the maritime community, it may be mentioned that there is a small population in Canton, who, for more than half the year, have no religious services. Gain being their paramount object, and having little or nothing to remind them oftheir religious interests, it may readily be supposed that such will not prove the most favourable representatives of the Christian world, and that

the heathen will be but ill prepared by " their good works which they shall behold, to glorify God in the day of visitation."

Besides the regular morning worship, a service was established in the evening of the Lord's-day, at which a large and attentive congregation were generally present.

But the subject of the greatest interest, connected with this scene of exertion, is the conversion of China unto Him from whom she has revolted. Here is an object, indeed, whose magnitude beggars description;— the salvation ofa whole empire—the most important empire upon earth—itself more extensive than all Europe, and containing, at least, one-third of earth's entire population! Look where we may, beneath the the wide expanse of the heavens, we can find no distinct enterprize so laudable, so imperious, so inconceivable in its results, as the conversion of China.

The real condition of her hundreds of millions is but little understood *. With all her empty boast of perfection, and the vapid eulogiums of her ignorant panegyrists, there is probably no other space upon earth so filled with real wretchedness as China. Her "mild patriarchal government," is a system of injustice and oppression. From the " Dragon throne," tothe lowest menial in authority, self-aggrandizement

• The most authentic census, taken in 1812, gave a population of upwards of three hundred and sixty millions,

is the reigning passion; extortion and cruelty the means of its gratification. Her plebeian happiness is the combined result of poverty, virtual slavery, and vice. Those who have had the best opportunities of judging, give the most painful description of the indigence and depravity of the populace. The middling class, or those who enjoy a competence, are few in number; and they too are often treated without justice or mercy, and, if possessed of power, are quite as unjust and merciless. Even the appearance of happiness which captivates the stranger must be mere shew; for, consisting, as it does, in earthly possessions, there is very little in the laws, or their corrupt administration, to give it basis or perpetuity.

It is true that their literature is extensive : but how far it is calculated to elevate their character or to meliorate their condition, may be determined by the fact that scarcely a subject of which they treat is understood, while the most important truths, the only ones which can improve the moral character of man, are totally unknown *

Thus the conversion of China, with all the blessings attendant upon Christianity, becomes an object of worldly philanthropy, as well as of Christian benevolence. None, whose heart is not as hard as

• Their philosophy, history, poetry, are so mixed up with the marvellous and absurd, that, with the exception ofthe maxims of their sages, some of which are excellent, there is nothing worth exploring in the whole field of their science.

adamant, can gaze upon this scene of distress without emotion.

But how infinitely vast—how worthy of all sacrifice, all hazard, all experiment — does the moral elevation of this nation appear, when viewed in its connexion with the Redeemer's glory! Here is a triumph and a trophy for His victorious grace; a gem as pure and as bright as earth can offer, to deck His mediatorial crown! With the eye of this gracious Being upon us, and His heart upon the salvation of those who have been promised Him as His inheritance, what can express our gratitude, evince our discipleship, or display our allegiance and love, if the conversion of China be not the object of our prayers, and plans, and utmost endeavours 1

For the present accomplishment of this undertaking, very much may be done.

"Faith, mighty faith, the promise sees;

Relies on that alone; Laughs at impossibilities,

And says, It shall be done.''

Missionaries should be sent forth to every accessible place in the empire, and to every mart of her commerce in the surrounding seas. The coasts should be invaded, and the seaports entered; as they have been, and still are, by the undaunted genius of commerce. Every opening should be searched out, every tenable post occupied, every lawful engagement subordinated, every passport possessed. Others have

entered, and gained their respective objects. Pagans, Jews, Mahommedans, Papists, nominal Protestants —all have penetrated, but those who were alone capable of benefiting the nation, and alone commanded to hazard their lives in the attempt *.

The Chinese are extremely inquisitive, patient in research, fond of literature, free from the shackles of caste, and comparatively but little wedded to their systems of religion. These qualities, added to the fact that the Bible and some scores of excellent works have been translated and written in their own character, afford the greatest encouragement to pray with expectation, and labour with confidence, for their spiritual welfare.

But alas! if there were highways opened through

• The interesting voyages of Mr. Gutzlaff along the coast of China, made after the writer had left Canton, have brought to light a number of most important facts, and placed China in an aspect in which Christians never beheld her before. They have shewn that, contrary to received opinion, the natives are fond of intercourse with foreigners—that no barriers need prevent this intercourse—that the Chinese have a high opinion of our medical skill—and that they receive Christian books with the utmost avidity. These voyages, together with previous information,lead us to suppose that there are four direct ways of influencing China: occupying the ports of commerce in the empire, accessible to all; sending ships along the coasts, freighted with Christian publications; establishing mission stations where the vessels touch, in the maritime cities and the adjacent islands; and having the marts to which the Chinese trade, in the neighbouring kingdoms and islands, well supplied with missionaries and pious physicians. In the last-mentioned stations, experiment has proved that the missionary becomes known, both to those whom he meets abroad and to their friends at home; his disinterested, unpolitical object is proved and approved; and his way is thus prepared to " enter in and dwell among them."

every part ofthe empire, there are none "shod with the preparation of the Gospel of peace " to travel upon them. The few missionaries sent by all Christendom to China, are by no means equal to the duties of their own stations. Those who have not been toiling sotyears at the language, are not qualified for such an undertaking; and the Christian world appears still to slumber over the claims and calls of these perishing millions. Even admitting all that has been imagined —that the empire is barred and sealed against foreigners—still there is preparatory work enough for hosts of labourers, and work which must be done, though the Emperor and every subject in his realm should unite their voices in imploring our aid.

The language is to be acquired, before any thing can be attempted; and they who can give the greatest number of years to its acquisition, are the best prepared to employ it to advantage : and they may employ it to advantage even now. As the Chinese are a reading and reflecting people, it appears exceedingly important that they should be made acquainted with many of those branches of general literature which are the most useful. Of the history of other nations, and the geography of other countries, most of the nation are grossly ignorant. China, according to their ideas, is the centre, and well nigh the sum, of the world; the focus of all intellectual and moral light; not only the glory of the earth, but the counterpart of heaven. It is scarcely necessary to say,

that the tendency of such sentiments is fatal to the introduction of every external influence; and that, until correct information be communicated, this haughty contempt of foreign attainments and customs will probably continue, at least among the learned. If works on all important subjects were sent forth, in every possible form, through the empire, the good effected would, in all probability, be incalculable. Here, then, is a work which can scarcely be completed before, according to the dullest faith, there must be a change favourable to the introduction and propagation of Christianity in these regions.

So that, on any supposition, missionaries ought to be on the ground; qualifying themselves for labour, and preparing the means by which they are to labour; availing themselves of all the facilities which exist, and watching every providential opening which may be presented.

o

CHAPTER VII.

PASSAGE TO JAVA.

Having received an invitation from Capt. Drummond, to accompany him, in the H. C. ship Castle Huntley, to Java, where he understood I was going, we left Canton at midnight of December 28th, and proceeded in a large " chop boat" to the ship, lying below the second bar. The Castle Huntley, though rather inferior in dimensions to some of the vessels in the same service, exceeds thirteen hundred tons in burden, carries twenty-six guns, and has a crew of one hundred and forty men. Every ship of this kind affords scope for the most zealous chaplain; and if, as in the present instance, favoured with the advice, the co-operation, and the prayers of the commander, the prospect of success is highly animating. We had Divine service every Sabbath morning, when the weather admitted, on deck, and every evening in the cuddy. A part of almost each day was spent on the gun-deck, among the crew, visiting the sick, instructing the ignorant, and exhorting all " to repent and believe."

Having never before been brought into such

conslant contact with a large number of sailors, I had an excellent opportunity of testing and correcting my previous opinions respecting the best mode of profitable intercourse with them on board ship.

A sailor, as all the world knows, is a strange being. Bluntness is one characteristic, and bluntness,mingled with an earnest seriousness, must be employed to meet it. No time need be spent in any conversation preliminary to the subject of personal religion. It generally leads to such remarks or complaints from them as tend to defeat the object, rather than to promote it.

Disrespect, where there is no restraint upon them, and frequently a shocking oath, or a loud avowal of their contempt of your presence and purpose, are at first employed, by a few of the more hardy spirits, to shew to their shipmates their manly superiority to religious scruples, and probably to prevent you from intruding into their retirement, or disturbing their consciences. This, however, is seldom repeated, if the case be properly managed at the time. Let them see that you are dauntless; that all such obstacles, instead of subduing, only animate you; instead of irritating, only soften your spirit into the deeper compassion; that you regard their salvation as of infinite importance, and could weep at the enormity oftheir crimes, and the imminence of their danger, and you will generally find these bravadoes in future among the most deferential and docile.

G2

If the challenge or oath is as evidently intended for your ears as for their companions, " rebuke them before all," shewing, at the same time, that you have no wish to retaliate, or simply to put them to shame, but to expose the exceeding guilt and madness of such unprovoked rebellion against God.

If you can make a sailor feel that his usual wickedness and indifference to duty can proceed from nothing but ignorance, as wilful as it is profound, and that you have no secular object in view in exhorting or instructing him, you have obtained a claim upon his ear, and a passport to bis heart. When these first difficulties, which are the most appalling to those unaccustomed to exertion among seamen, are mastered, the peculiarities of each case must, as on shore, indicate its treatment.

Probably no unvarying plan of systematic effort on board ship, can be adopted. This must depend upon the dispositions of the officers, the regulations of the vessel, and, in a measure, the inclinations of the men. Opportunities for private conversation may always be found, and tracts and small practical works may be distributed, under almost all circumstances.

For the greatest benefit to this class of men we must look to those who labour among them in port. As a sailor has no circumspection, no forecast, others should exercise these qualities for him. The crimps have long availed themselves of these characteristic

defects, and the consequences are too well known to be detailed. The boarding systems at home should be broken up—of course by means of counteracting exertions. There must be such a desperate invasion upon the usurped province of every crimp, as to leave him no means of subsistence unless he abandon his inhuman traffic in the souls and bodies of his victims.

The immense good which may, and must, result from the conversion of this class of men, is best appreciated by those who have resided in foreign lands. Sailors generally prove a most serious detriment to all missionary efforts; and should they become subjects of religion themselves, instead of "scattering firebrands, arrows, and death," upon every heathen shore where they touch, they would help to sow " the seed of eternal life," even where missionaries have never travelled.

Among the crew was a young man from NewYork, whom the captain pointed out as quite superior in intellect to his shipmates, but who, on account of the most glaring misconduct, had been publicly flogged. I had frequent opportunities of conversing with him, and found him in a frame of mind which appeared favourable to religious impressions. He was willing to accompany me in any capacity, but I did not feel myself at liberty to take him, neither should I have deemed the step prudent under any circumstances, with the uncertain

prospect before me. The custom of sending boys of respectability to sea, or of allowing them to follow their own roving dispositions and make a trial of this mode of life, is common both in Great Britain and America.

Having heard the opinions of many, of different nations, and in all the capacities of the merchant service, the writer feels the more anxious to echo in the ears of the young and uninitiated the voice of experience on this subject. Though this topic has been one of frequent conversation, he has met with none, accustomed to good society, who, if they were compelled to continue this life, did not deplore the necessity which bound them to it, and dissuade their children and others from entering upon it as a matter of choice.

If the acquisition of wealth, or a simple livelihood, be the object, probably none of the ordinary pursuits of life could prove less advantageous. The wages, if not inadequate to current expenses, are most scantily proportioned to them; and even with the prospect ofa speedy advancement, which few enjoy, and still fewer realize, the result is the same. The highest station affords a bare subsistence to a man who has a family to support, and the liberty of a limited trade, which is granted to him, generally adds but very little to his income. To this must be added the necessity of being absent from his family more than three-fourths of his time, deprived of the

comforts and privileges of shore, and exposed to daily trials, of which landsmen have no conception.

The fact that so few captains of ships amass fortunes, and the still more embarrassing truth, to which allusion has been made, that scarcely any continue this line of life from choice, are sufficient to controul the judgments of all who are selecting their worldly occupations, and have the advantages of the wide continent of America before them.

Sometimes a seaman's berth has been selected for a voyage or two, to improve the morals of the dissipated. Those who are lawless on land, are sent to sea for salutary discipline; but here again, no plan could be more subversive of its end. The mixed society, composed of the lowest class of men, gathered from different nations, and trained to different habits; the want of religion, so prevalent among seamen; the unrestrained licentiousness of the mass; the triumphant detail of disgraceful conduct on shore, embellished by their own wit, and set off by the most pithy vulgarisms and blasphemies they have ever heard, usually prove as fatal to every correct moral sentiment, as do the tar and grease and dirt—the element of the forecastle—to all ideas of refinement and delicacy.

It is pleasing to know that there are exceptions to the general rule. Wealth and piety have been acquired at sea, and the latter is occasionally found

among sailors; but, alas! the want of each is too common to encourage the hazardous experiment.

A few days after leaving China we made the coast of Cochin-China, and saw, as its most prominent object, something in appearance like a pagoda, towering on the summit of a high hill. The distance was too great to define the object, but we have since learned that it is a rock thus curiously formed.

Cochin-China is a kingdom of considerable importance. Including Tonquin and part of Cambojia, which are now annexed to it, it covers a large extent of country, and contains a hardy, energetic population. The Chinese language is well understood by the inhabitants of Annam—the native appellation of this country;—although they employ another character in common intercourse, which bears affinity to the ancient Chinese, or Seal character. The Roman Catholics have long had a footing in this kingdom. They reckon about three thousand converts, the great majority being in Tonquin. Formerly they were high in favour at court, but upon the death of the king, whom the Bishop of Adran brought over to France for education, their influence diminished, and recently they have suffered severe persecution. Those who have visited Cochin-China for trade, give no favourable account of the honesty or liberality of the natives. They are represented as rather cruel and intolerant, disposed to take advantage of strangers,

and unfriendly to the admittance and residence of foreigners among them. How far the latter may be the policy of the Government, as in China, we can only conjecture; but that many of those traits of character which render them peculiarly offensive to Protestant strangers, are produced, or at least strengthened, by the intolerant spirit of Catholicism, there is strong reason to believe. The nation may be influenced and approached throughSiam or Cambojia, or it might be benefited by more direct means. The possibility of the latter can be ascertained only by the visit of a trading ship.

We spent two days, in procuring water and fuel, on the coast of Sumatra. During this time the passengers and officers amused themselves on shore, in walking, shooting, picking shells, 8cc. With the exception ofa few temporary huts, without inhabitants, there was not a human vestige to be seen. Traces of elephants and deer, with an abundance of snipe and quails, proclaimed the wildness of the region; while swarms of most voracious and adhesive insects furnished a sufficient reason for the absence of man. It was rather remarkable, that though nothing which indicated the presence of human beings could be discovered, yet the last boat had scarcely put off from the shore before smoke began to ascend, and fires to glow, in the very place we had left. The next morning we were visited by

g 5

two or three small canoes, manned by half-naked, puny natives, bringing a few fowls to sell or barter.

A few hours after leaving Sumatra, the ship was again riding at anchor, abreast of Angier. As soon as she was descried, boats were sent from the neigh bouring islands, with poultry, yams, fruit, birds, monkeys, &c, all in great abundance, and at the most reduced prices.

The most striking peculiarity of the natives, is the artificial shape and colour of their teeth. They conceive it a mark of beauty, some say of distinction from the brute creation, to pass a file horizontally over the centre of the front teeth, giving them the form of a crescent, and then to stain them with a vegetable preparation, which often renders them as black as jet. The appearance is rather disgusting to a stranger, and the disagreeable effect is not diminished by the general custom, among both sexes, of cramming their mouths with betel, cere, and tobacco, the latter of which is allowed to protrude beyond the lips. This mixture, as might be supposed, produces an action of the salivary glands, and it. is soon evident that they are regardless of the delicacy of all who may be near them.

CHAPTER VIII.

JAVA.

Angier is the point of Java where ships in the favourable monsoons pass, and generally call for supplies of water and provisions. It is situated on a large plain, adorned with extensive groves of cocoanut trees, and flanked by an amphitheatre of the most diversified and picturesque hills. The luxuriance of the verdure mantling every part of the plain, and decking the sloping sides and the summits of the highlands with a charming variety of lofty forests and spreading fields, produces the most favourable impression of the fertility and beauty for which the island is famed *. A small fort, a bungalow or two, and a native village, stand in close vicinity near the shore. As there is no hotel in the place, I went immediately to the residence of one of the Dutch gentlemen to whom I had letters, and who received me with much kindness.

Supposing that I was anxious to proceed to Batavia without delay, and being unable to provide

• I saw it twice—once during the rainy season, afterwards in fine weather—and it scarcely appeared like the same place.

a carriage immediately, arrangements were made for my being transported on the shoulders ofthe natives for the first twenty miles. The idea of being carried such a distance, in a confined chair, over bad roads, and through almost incessant showers, would not have been agreeable, even had I known the native language, been familiar with the way, and acquainted with the persons on whose hospitality I was obliged to trespass for my night's lodging. As my kind host had made every preparation, under the evident impression that I could not delay, and there appeared no alternative to a speedy departure without violating all the rules of politeness, I was on the point of taking my seat in the vehicle, which, from its structure, must have required a recumbent position, when the crack of a whip and the rattling of wheels announced the approach of a more comfortable conveyance. It proved to be a Government coach, which was hired by travellers, and which would be ready the next day to convey me to Batavia. I felt thankful for this seasonable relief. Many such incidents I could record, which, scattered through the course of my life, connect the hours of earliest remembrance with the present moment, and which I hope never to forget.

January 20, Batavia.—As the arrangements were not made so soon as at first expected, I remained at Angier until yesterday morning. About seven A.M. we started, with the intention of proceeding forty

miles, being half the distance, and leaving the rest of the journey for the following day. We started, as is customary in Java, at full gallop; changed horses every six miles; and, notwithstanding such a state of the roads as fixed us in the mud two or three times, accomplished the day's journey by about two p.m.

The face of the country was considerably varied with hill and dale, wildness and cultivation. All the low and level tracts of land were devoted to the culture of rice, and some of these fields extended as far as the eye could reach. In almost every part of the way the natives of both sexes were laboriously engaged, tilling the land with buffaloes, and transplanting the young grain from its original bed. Such had been the abundance of rain since the wet season commenced, that all the low grounds were submerged, and the labourer was obliged to wade, often to an inconvenient depth, in fulfilling his task.

We passed a number of villages, situated on the elevated ridges of land, and, as far as could be discovered (for they are generally concealed in clusters of trees), consisting of a group of miserable huts, scarcely sufficient to shelter their occupants from the rain, protect them from beasts of prey, or contain their necessary supply of provisions. At intervals along the road, sheds were erected for marketplaces, where the natives assemble to traffic. In one of them about two or three thousand were collected.

What a congregation for the Christian Teacher! Indeed every thing indicated a dense population, and seemed to invite the missionary to come and be the instrument of raising them from their mental and spiritual degradation.

The house at which I stopped stands some distance from the main road, on an estate of more than sixty square miles, and in the vicinity of furious beasts and elegant birds. Tigers of the most dangerous description infest the country, and even carry away the natives, while the woods are enlivened by flocks of majestic and beautiful peacocks. The manager ofthe estate received and entertained me with much hospitality. The principal object of curiosity which I saw in accompanying him over part of the estate, was a large petrified tree, imbedded in a few feet of soil.

About seven this morning we left the estate, and continued our journey. The country now began to assume an aspect of more civilization, which increased as we approached Batavia, and,except the deficiency of comfortable dwellings, reminded me forcibly of familiar objects at home.

At the entrance to Batavia was a group of houses extending some distance along the road, and occupied by Chinamen. They were all surrounded with water; many' of them flooded so as to be uninhabitable; while the people were obliged to move about in boats, or splash along at a depth which admitted of but a

slow progress. This spot proved to be below the general level of the country, and we were happy, after riding some distance at a most tardy pace, to emerge from the flood and pursue our way on dry land. The horses were urged forward at their usual speed, through streets consisting of Chinese houses, with a canal of running water on one side, until we left the precincts of the old town for that part of the city occupied by Europeans. The canal still bordered the way, while handsome residences, with courts in front, lined the opposite side. One of these proved to be the hotel, at which the carriage stopped about three p. m.

As the day was not sufficiently advanced to admit of the remainder being wasted, I procured a conveyance, and called on Mr. Medhurst, the English missionary, by whom I was received with the cordiality and kindness of a brother in Christ. To avoid the malaria and heat of the town, the residents have built their dwellings upon a large plain, which extends some distance into the interior, and is intersected by the finest roads.

January 24.—Yesterday (Sabbath) I attended three services in the mission chapel—two in English and one in Malay. Mr. M. is in the habit of having another service, for those who speak the native language, in the town, and frequently in one of the prisons; so that the day is filled up with active exertions. He is assisted by Mr. William Young, a

young man who is capable of conducting the service in Malay, understands Chinese tolerably well, and whose abilities and zeal in his Master's service render him a valuable acquisition to the mission. There is another young person connected with the mission, a native Amboynese, who appears to have been truly converted to God within the last year.

Java is well known, as one of the most important colonial possessions attached to any European crown. More than two centuries have passed away since the Dutch became masters of some of its best districts; and during all this time it has been in the hands of nations professing Protestantism. Like the other possessions of the Dutch, it has received its share of chaplains; but, compared with the active zeal displayed in enlightening the natives of some of the other islands, scarcely any attempts appear to have been made for the conversion of Java.

"This island," writes one who resides there, and who has long had the best opportunities of obtaining the most correct information, "contains a population of six millions, four of whom speak the Javanese language, one and a half the Sunda, and half a million the Malayan. Its three principal towns are Batavia, Samarang, and Soerabaya. Batavia contains, within a circuit of twenty miles, three hundred thousand souls, of whom thirty thousand are Chinese; Samarang has about two hundred thousand natives and ten thousand Chinese; and Soerabaya about

three hundred thousand natives and five thousand Chinese. There are, besides, about ten thousand Chinese scattered about in various parts of the island. These three principal towns are frequently visited by strangers, and no foreigners, who have not excited the displeasure of Government, have been refused permission to reside in them.

"The Dutch systematically avoid establishing missions among Mahommedans, and endeavour to thrust their missionaries away, into bye places, as much as possible. Hence on the whole island of Java, entirely under their own dominion, they have not a single missionary. Formerly two missionaries were stationed at Christian villages, but with the exclusive object of ministering to those who already professed Christianity. These are both dead *.

"The two missionaries on the island are stationed at Batavia and Soerabaya. The first has been allowed to become a burgher, which entitles him to the right of residence, the permanent tenure of property, and the liberty of travelling through any part of the colony. He has never experienced the least hindrance from Government, in the prosecution of his work. The

• " It may here be observed, that the missionaries formerly sent out by the Dutch Society were illiterate men, which, added to the general prejudice against missionary efforts, tended to bring their office into contempt. Since then, the character and qualifications of their missionaries have greatly improved, but the prejudice still continues strong against them, and it seems indigenous to a Dutchman's mind to consider a missionary as vastly inferior to a settled minister."

other missionary has not been so much favoured : the authorities interfered in the midst of a most interesting work, and his Testaments and tracts, which the eager natives flocked in thousands to receive, were all seized. At Soerabaya some good people have formed themselves into an auxiliary missionary society, established a school for heathen children, and exerted themselves in preparing and distributing tracts among the natives. They have done much, and would effect more if a missionary resided among them.

"There is an opening for missionaries at Batavia, Samarang, and Soerabaya. Every facility would be afforded by their brethren in two of these settlements: assistance in the native languages, books, residence, and advice, would be most freely given."

The New Testament, and other books, have been translated into the Javanese, which, with the numerous Christian works printed in the Malay and Chinese languages, afford the greatest advantages for effecting immediate good.

The writer having accepted the kind invitation of Mr. and Mrs. Medhurst to take up his residence with them, employed his time principally in accompanying the missionary in his daily labours among the heathen, and in studying the dialect of the Chinese language most current in this settlement. A journal of events, kept at the time, has already been published. A few extracts will give the reader an idea

of the nature of the field, and the necessity of aid in its cultivation.

January 26th.—Spent part of this morning among the Chinese residences in the town. Mr. M. generally devotes a portion of every day to visiting the natives and Chinese, for the purpose of conversing and distributing tracts. In every house where there appears to be a probability of engaging the occupants in conversation, he enters, sometimes by invitation, generally " sans ceremonie."

The Chinese sense of politeness is always such as to secure him a reception sufficient for his purpose. To the dwellings of the Malays there is not the same liberty of access. The Chinese frequently listen with apparent interest, and receive the tracts readily.

February 4th.—In our usual rounds to-day we visited a hospital, where the leprous, blind, and deranged, are kept. Of the former class were some of the most miserable objects I ever beheld. Unable to leave their couch, with limbs partially consumed, withered, and covered with a loathsome ulceration, they were peculiarly calculated to impress the mind with a sense of the more deplorable, and by human means equally incurable, malady of the heart, of which this dreadful infliction is an emblem, and was a punishment. " Who maketh thee to differ from another ? "

One of them mentioned to Mr. Medhurst that he believed his disease was the punishment of sin in a

former life, according to their notions of the metempsychosis; and, when referred to the demerit of guilt in the present existence, as a more plausible, and an adequate reason, pointed most significantly in reply to a youth of but twelve years of age, who was a much greater sufferer, and on this supposition a less guilty sinner than himself. Among the blind was a youth, who could not imagine why he should be thus severely visited, since he had once saved the life of a fellow-being, at the hazard of his own. Self-righteousness, and as its consequence a disposition to murmur against the afflictive dispensations of Providence, are, alas ! too prevalent in every country.

Mr. Medhurst frequently avails himself of the moral precepts of their sages, as an admitted rule of conduct; and then, upon their confessions of guilt, declares the only way in which God can be just and the sinner justified.

February 6th.—We have just returned from an interesting visit to one of the bazaars, where about two or three thousand natives and Chinese were collected. The latter compose the great majority of tradesmen in Batavia, being more ingenious, active, shrewd, and gain-seeking, than the natives. Wherever money is to be made, by dint or traffic, manufacture, gambling or gulling, Chinamen are sure to be found. Acquainted, from long experience, with the best mode of gaining his object, Mr. M. went directly to a

part of the market where the men resort, after their most important business is finished, to purchase as much tobacco as they require before the next marketday. The anxieties of trade have so far subsided before they reach this place, as to render it much less difficult to secure their attention to an object which yields no immediate palpable advantage. His success in gaining their ear, and in awakening a desire to obtain books, was truly animating. In a very short time his budget of tracts, many of them of a large size—as the Gospel of Matthew—had entirely disappeared.

Tbe surprising change evinced in the disposition of the natives within the last year is remarkable, and very encouraging. Until thus recently he was generally obliged to return with the number of his books undiminished. He scarcely succeeded in distributing a dozen copies in as many months, on account of the influence of their Mahommedan priests and rulers, and the dread they inspired. Since the commencement of this happy, and, as far as visible means are concerned, unaccountable change in the minds ofthe people, hundreds have been distributed without the least difficulty.

Another fact, full of promise, connected with the reception of these books, is the eagerness ofthe natives to understand their contents, and the means they often employ to obtain this knowledge. It is said that those who are unacquainted with letters will go through their villages to have the books read, and

that, rather than remain ignorant of their truths, they will carry them to the chief men, and even to the priests themselves. Mr. M. says that these very rulers and priests, who were formerly so distant and ill-disposed towards him and his poison, have condescended to come and solicit Christian books for their own perusal. Yet nothing beyond the simple disposition to receive and read these books has thus far appeared : the valley remains in deathful silence, and the bones are very dry; but the prophet has entered; " Thus saith the Lord God " begins to be heard, and we look and pray for the breath of Jehovah to come and breathe upon the slain *.

14th.—Yesterday (Sabbath), besides the ordinary English and Malay services in the mission chapel, we visited a large prison, containing about three hundred native convicts. The missionary, or one of the young men who assist him, holds service bere every Sabbath. It was a subject of considerable anxiety to the prisoners, chiefly Mahommedans, at the commencement of these religious exercises, to ascertain the precise object of the preacher. Some imagined that the redemption to which he referred was deliverance from chains and imprisonment: others were filled with apprehension, and fancied, from his statements of the evil and demerit of sin, that they were forthwith to be sold as slaves, and transported to some distant country.

• Ezekiel xxxvii. 1—10.

They all (except a few) assembled beneath a cluster of large shady trees, and remained in a sitting posture until the service was closed. The countenances of many of them disclosed an interest in the subject which could not fail to animate the speaker. One of the prisoners, who died a short time since, gave pleasing evidence of the benefit of these instructions, and confided his departing spirit into the hands of the Saviour, of whom he had heard in this place of confinement. Thus the very prison may become the gate of heaven, and the fetters of the guilty the appointed instrument to keep them back from destruction, and " compel them to come in."

17th.—For nearly a week the Chinese have been enjoying their greatest holiday. It is with them the season of new year; work is generally suspended; their best robes are displayed; children are loaded with costly ornaments, and carried in complimentary form from house to house; while the best wishes for temporal prosperity—a long purse and life—are interchanged. The tables groan beneath their luxurious burdens; the gods are supplied with every variety of eatables, and their faces are tinged with the smoke of tapers and incense. Every one yields himself up to pleasure; and gambling, the delight of the nation, groups its votaries " in the house and by the way-side."

When we enter their dwellings, tea is generally

handed round in small cups, and the pipe is seldom used until it has been offered to the visitor.

Here, as at Canton, the most common figure before which they offer their sacrifices is the representative of an ancient deified hero, called in the Mandarin dialect Kwanfootze. He has been adopted by the reigning Tartar family as their patron deity. An imperial proclamation was issued, commanding the homage of the whole empire to this pretended god of war. In every painting he appears as an exceedingly gross, ill-favoured being, with an idiotical formation of head, small lengthened eyes running up the forehead, ears almost on a line with the top of the head, a forehead not unlike the upper part ofa cone, and cheeks and chin resembling its extended base. To this is added a long spare beard, which he is represented stroking in calm reflection with his right hand.

Behind his chair stands a black figure, said to represent an adjutant, holding a huge weapon in one hand, with a countenance of deadly rage, his eyes bursting from their swollen sockets, and in a stooping posture, as if communicating the most exasperating intelligence to the unruffled warrior.

The former, though the most common, is by no means the only image used for religious purposes. A celebrated Esculapius, of whose surgical and magical powers the most fabulous legends are preserved

and credited, often occupies the place appointed for the deity on the wall opposite the door of entrance, and receives the adoration of the household. He is painted in the act of conjuring an invisible being, with his face towards the heavens and a small wand in his outstretched hand, while a hideous figure, answering to their idea of the dragon—which they imagine to be the chief agent in the kingdom of Providence—answers to the summons, and appears in the clouds. Other representations are often preferred; not unfrequently the form of a female, and, by some, merely the Chinese character for spirit, happiness, long life, wealth, &c. Small images placed before these paintings are also common.

21st.—In our rounds to-day we met a Chinaman from the province of Teo-chew, or Tay-chew, who related some of the horrid cruelties practised upon the female infants of the common people. He says the custom of infanticide is almost universal among this class of the community. If the parent supposes that the marriage portion received for the bride will be greater than the expense of bringing her up, she is allowed to live; but if he apprehends straitened circumstances before, or a failure at the time, she is always dispatched. The disproportion of the sexes is so great, that in a village of three thousand men not more than three or four hundred can procure wives. If you expostulate with them on their worse than brutal cruelty, they reply with the mostunnaii

tural apathy," Rice is dear, and no benefit will accrue to us from rearing these children. As soon as they are married they become the property of another; and as they are not allowed to marry relations, or even those of the same family name, they join another clan, and only support them in their rivalry."

March 22d.—We arose early, and rode about eighteen or twenty miles into the country, to a village inhabited by natives and Chinese, and containing a few European dwellings. We selected Tuesday because it is the principal market-day in the week. The Amboynese convert, to whom reference has been made, started yesterday afternoon, with about two hundred Malay tracts and as many Chinese. On our arrival we found him surrounded by the natives, and actively engaged in his interesting work.

Tlie scene was one of lively interest. Wherever the teacher took his station, a crowd resorted, and listened attentively to the doctrines of the Gospel. That the truth might be more widely proclaimed, every part of she bazaar was visited, and in the course of two hours not a tract remained in our

possession.

There was much of that melancholy interest on the road which is felt when passing through the deserted ruins of a once populous city. Extensive avenues of trees, courts overgrown with shrubbery, and gate-posts still standing, mark the situations

where, in days of Eastern prosperity, large mansions appeared. Batavia presents many such relics ofthe past age. To the elder inhabitants it requires no stretch of memory, and to the young no strength of fancy, to conjure up the scenes of life and gaiety in which the past generation figured. Stately buildings again adorn the face ofthe country—the festive halls once more are lighted—the giddy throng assemble— peals of exhilarating music swell upon the ear, and for a moment entrance the soul—successive nights are spent in feasting, and every species of amusement— and the assembly breaks up, only to restore their flagging powers for another encounter*.

But there are other visions, of an opposite character, belonging to the history of Batavia, and called up by these desolations. The place is an Aceldema, where residents and visitors, natives and strangers, men of every country, class, and clime, have found a common grave.

It must have required more than an ordinary struggle to debar from the minds of the gradually thinning, yet still assembling, votaries of pleasure, the intruding question, " Who of us shall meet again ? " What a strange, unnatural connexion, between the powerful ravages of death, and the thoughtless revels

** A livin-* witness informed me that he had been present when two hundred were invited, and the revel continued for as much of three successive days and nights as human nature could endure. He has known balls, with their luxurious accompaniments, kept up, at one house, for three nights.

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ofthe dying! It is like decking the victims of the monster with the votive wreath, and leading them gaily forth to the dreaded altar *.

March 25th.—An hour was spent this morning in conversation with a number of Cochin-Chinese. It was conducted partly in French, a limited knowledge of which they had acquired from the Roman Catholic priests in their own country; partly in Malay, picked up in trading; and partly by means of the Chinese written character. They professed the Roman Catholic religion, and evinced a degree of caution and bigotry which had no doubt been inspired by their calculating leaders. They spoke of "thousands upon thousands" of Roman Catholics in their country, and priests from France, Portugal, Bengal, and America; also of convents belonging to different orders of monks. It was quite evident, from their questions and remarks, that they had been apprised of the exertions of Protestants, and prepared for collision.

A tract was presented to them containing nothing obnoxious to Catholicism, but their imagination filled it with the most pernicious doctrines; and though they did not read a single page, they were perfectly aware, they said, of its soul-destroying contents.

• If from what has been ascribed to an exhausting sun and pestilential malaria, were deducted the effects of the excitable and irregular living of the East, Batavia and other tropical regions would be stripped of many of those sepulchral associations wilh which they are now shrouded.

Their principal objections to the religion of the Dutch and English were, the want of celibacy among the priests, and of auricular confession among the people. They spoke of the instruction they had derived from catechisms—such as the frequent worship of " la tres sainte Vierge"—but upon being asked if they had read the Bible, replied in Chinese, " It was forbidden, disapproved; " adding in French, " It is contraband." One of them inquired of Mr. M. how many disciples he had. He replied, that he deemed something beyond a mere profession indispensable to true religion, and consequently never included in such an estimate those who were not sincere. " Ah," said the shrewd inquirer, " the fault is in your doctrines; if they were true there would be no lack of genuine disciples." He was asked what he considered true doctrine. " Oh," said he ironically, " your books are full of it." " But you know nothing of the contents of our books, and how are you qualified to condemn them." " I have no time," said he, "to prattle any longer with you," and he waited only long enough to hear that the truth was of sufficient importance to demand his time, and that a good man ought to make it a matter of most diligent inquiry *.

• Since writing the above, ten Roman Catholic missionaries, including four natives and six Europeans, have arrived at Batavia, on their way to Cochin-China. They state that there are three hundred thousand Roman Catholics in Cochin-China and Tonquin. According to the authority upou which the number of Roman Catholics is given in China, there are in Tonquin and Cochin-China four

This, then, is the effect of Romanism, falsely termed Christianity, and this the barrier it erects against the pure doctrines of the Cross. If the word of these men can be relied on, how widely prevalent must be its errors, and how anti-Christian its influence in Cochin-China!

March 29th. — Having made arrangements for a tour of about sixteen or eighteen miles in the country, we arose this morning, ancl pursued our journey for some distance by the light of the moon. The undisturbed serenity ofthe hour,the sombre shade of the forests, and the pale beauties of the open landscape, the freshness of the dewy morning, and, above all, the tranquillizing influence of the moon, combined to produce the most delightful effect upon the mind, sobered by a temporary suspension of thought, and still unruffled by the cares of the day.

On account ofthe frequent rains, and the bad state of those roads which are not kept at the expense of Government, we were obliged to change our mode of conveyance after the first four miles, and to make the whole of the remaining journey on horseback. Such was the depth and tenacity of the mud in some places that the horses could scarcely proceed; and the bridges, which were covered with a wicker-work

Bishops, fifteen European missionaries, upwards of one hundred native missionaries, and more than four hundred thousand converts. More than three-fourths of this number are in Tonquin, now subject to Cochin-China.

of bamboo, were so wet and smooth before the sun appeared, that on one of them my horse slipped, and fell in an instant. Mercifully I found myself standing at his side, or my limbs would probably have been crushed.

There was nothing remarkable in the face of the country. The land was generally level; the smaller elevations being selected for the site of native villages, and the low grounds covered with rice. We passed near the establishment of the former Rajah of the island. The only insignia of royalty remaining, are three or four beautiful waringin trees, always planted in Java before the houses of native princes.

One of the descendants ofthe royal family joined us on horseback, and continued with us for some distance. He conversed sensibly on the subject of religion, and, although professedly Mahommedan, did not pretend to palliate the evil consequences of some of the Prophet's doctrines, nor refuse to receive a Christian book.

About nine o'clock we reached a small settlement of Portuguese, whose ancestors, by the might and power of the sword, were obliged to renounce Catholicism and embrace the Protestant faith. Having left word that we would return in time to preach, we continued our journey about three miles farther, to the market-place.

In this part of our way the country was adorned with the most extensive groves of cocoa-nut trees I

ever beheld. The oil of this nut is much employed by the natives, both in cookery, and in anointing their bodies. By the time we reached our destination, the rays of the sun were very oppressive; but the sheds under which the natives were assembled afforded some relief, and enabled us to prosecute our labours. Mr. M. and the Amboynese convert, who accompanied us, spent two or three hours in preaching to the natives and distributing books. The crowd was not as great as at the other places we had visited, although the tracts were disposed of with little difficulty.

We noticed two or three young men, better habited, and apparently more intelligent, than the common class, whose conduct indicated opposition to our object. Having watched their suspicious movements, and found that they were not satisfied with the tracts they had procured, but were impudently helping themselves to others, Mr. M. took from them what they had received, and refused to let them have a single one. This determined measure had the desired effect; they soon disappeared.

We returned to the Portuguese settlement about mid-day, and, after resting an hour, and taking some refreshment, were invited to the house of God by the familiar tones ofthe church-going bell. About thirty convened in an old building, erected in 1674, in the ancient style of Dutch architecture. Mr^Medhurst addressed the assembly, endeavouring to impress

upon them some ofthe lessons cf Christianity, which it was very evident they knew merely in theory. They had been favoured with the labours of a missionary, whose bones now repose before the door of the church. To me the occasion was unusually impressive, and, though I understood but little of the language, my reflections were, I hope, not without profit. It was strange to find a house dedicated to the service of the true God in this sequestered spot in a heathen land—strange that it should have stood a century and a half in such a place—and still more deplorable than strange that its light should have been so completely lost, during all this time, in the darkness that surrounds it.

I was surprised and grieved to find that the missionary conceived himself under no obligations to preach to che unchristianized natives, and that their unhallowed feet were not allowed to tread the threshhold of this sacred place. No wonder that its own children have dwindled to a handful, and that its light has become well nigh extinct.

March 31st.—This evening we attended service in the Dutch church, preparatory to the sacrament. This ordinance is administered twice a year in Batavia, one of these occasions being good Friday, which occurs to-morrow. The clerk was reading the Bible when we entered, and continued doing so until the dominie commenced. Singing, ancl reading

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the Scriptures are always continued half an hour before the service, during which time it is expected that all the congregation will assemble.

The order of service was very different from that observed in the Dutch churches in America. The minister commenced by pronouncing a blessing upon the congregation, which was received standing; after which a hymn was sung, the exordium remotum delivered, and prayer offered. Then the text was given out, and the first division of the subject exhausted; this was followed by singing, a long exhortation to alms-giving, and two collections for the church and the poor. These were received in a black bag, with a small bell at the bottom. When the exhortation to charity was concluded, the deacons left their places, and the second division of the subject was resumed, and continued, amid the noise and confusion oftheir employment, and for about half an hour after they had finished. Another hymn was then sung; after which all who expected to commune on the approaching day were requested to rise, and answer a number of questions respecting their faith. With a very few exceptions the whole congregation rose. This was succeeded by prayer, reading the names of new members, a hymn, and the blessing. My companion, who understood the sermon, repeated its substance on our return home. The subject was the burial of the Saviour by Joseph of Arimathea and

Nicodemus. The speaker was animated and eloquent, but his exhibition of doctrine and character was lamentably defective.

The Dutch church in these islands was planted nearly at the time when our forefathers colonized New Amsterdam. That zeal for the Saviour's glory, and attachment to the doctrines of her standards, characterized the eastern branch of the mother church equally with the western, is proved by historic testimony. We have one of the least ambiguous evidences of this fact in the ardour and enterprize with which her ministers engaged in the duty of evangelizing the heathen around them. The Bible was translated, works of much utility and merit were written, preaching was commenced, schools opened—in fact, every thing which could be attempted for the heathen was done by these men. Missionary societies were then unknown.

How long the church continued unimpeachable in doctrines and morals, we have no means of ascertaining. The history, as far as it goes, and tradition subsequently, depend for their faithfulness so much upon the sentiments of those by whom they were written or preserved, that unless we can determine the character of the recorder or narrator, we cannot decide upon the right interpretation of his facts.

The deterioration of the churches at home—the neglecting to appoint chaplains when the Company was disorganized—the subordination of the ministry to

the secular power*—the dissipated habits of Eastern society—added to the worldly spirit and unsound faith of many of the chaplains—are quite sufficient to account for the sad change which came over this once flourishing part of the Saviour's vineyard.

April 5th.—To-day is the commencement of the cheng heng, in the Mandarin dialect tsing ming, season, when the Chinese repair to the graves of the deceased, and sacrifice to their manes. Desirous of improving the opportunity, we visited the largest cemetery in the vicinity of Batavia, and spent part of the morning in conversation and distributing tracts. Many thousands were present, though in none could we discover that solemnity or sadness which is generally connected in our minds with the place of the dead, and which might be thought to result from communion with invisible spirits.

The graves, with a few exceptions, were adorned with coloured paper. One of the sepulchres of the great was covered with mats, and converted into a scene of pompous ceremony and shameful carousal. This tomb was more magnificent than any thing ofthe kind I had seen inChina. It occupied ground enough for a hundred ordinary graves, was composed of a high and spacious mound, with a platform of cement in front, surrounded by a wall and decorated with pilasters of the same material. Two hideous stone

• This may result as much from the management of the local Ulcers as from the disposition of the general Government.

figures, more like lions than any other creatures of earthly shape, were seated on pedestals to guard the entrance. On the platform, covering an area of about fifty feet by twenty, was spread a table, with a great variety of viands, fruits, preserves, &c, denominated a sacrifice to the dead, but designed to gorge the living. Before the table two men were kneeling; one with his head to the ground, the other holding a small tablet in his hand, from which he read, for the information of the departed spirit, an address concerning the devotion of the relatives and their desire to be reciprocally honoured. The tablet was written in a corruption of the Mandarin dialect, which is generally considered to be the most dignified expression of the Chinese character. This being performed, the men arose, the assembly began to talk and laugh, the music struck up, and the dead were soon forgotten. We did not remain to witness the revel which ensued*.

Stages were erected before the temple, upon which children were acting for the amusement of the populace. Mr. Medhurst was interrupted in publishing the Gospel to this multitude, by a derangedChina

• The tombs of the wealthy generally face a pond of water, and extend to its edge. The Chinese have a strange superstition connected with what they term fung shuy, which expression means wind and water, and appears to be applied to the science of determining the sites of buildings and graves. When the dead are displeased with the situation of their sepulchres, some temporal calamity generally a want of success in making money—is thought to be the certain evidence and infliction. A small temple is erected on the ground, most frequently dedicated to the god of happiness, and believed to conciliate the spirit of the place.

man, who has either conceived a strange disposition to ridicule the missionary, or been incited by others to oppose him. He appeared with a book in his hand, after the manner of Mr. M., and pretended to quote a passage and explain it to the people. His conversation to-day was very obscene; generally he broaches some most absurd sentiment, which he gravely repeats in the reading dialect, as though borrowed from a sacred book, and then descants on its meaning in the colloquial, to the great amusement of his auditory. Many tracts were distributed, and many instructions delivered, before we returned.

7th.—This morning we visited a temple dedicated to Twa-Sai-Yah, the son of a mandarin who presided over the district of Teon-Twa-Tokieii province. The image is represented with an extended sword in the right hand. The father was appointed to office under the present dynasty; and it is remarkable that the alleged circumstance for which the son was deified, so incredible in its nature and yet so widely credited, should be of such recent date. On the arrival of the mandarin at the place of his appointment, he was informed that a gigantic snail, or rather an incarnate elf under that form, held its abode in a lake or pond of the district, and annually devoured hundreds of men. The son of the officer, a heroic youth, on hearing this, seized a sword, plunged into the pond, and appeared no more. The water was drained, and the young man was found standing upon the monster, having transfixed his body, and,

rather than lose his prey, held him in that position until they both had perished.

The men who have erected the temple we visited, and who come from that district of China, say that the shell of this huge creature has been employed for an incense vase, in a temple erected tothe honour of the hero, ever since the event, and that it measures one yard in diameter. It is from a strange idea that men distinguished on earth are equally distinguished in heaven, and capable of affording assistance to mortals, that they are induced to multiply their temples upon the demise of every extraordinary character.

Mr. M. has witnessed some of the incantations which they practise in order to obtain the inspiration of such deified men. Upon the performance of some ridiculous ceremony, the subject of it becomes convulsed, exerts himself with violence, frequently cuts his body with a sword, and when necessarily composed, owing to the exhaustion induced by effort and pain, he is thought to be tranquillized by the influence of the deity, and prepared to answer such questions as are proposed. As the inquiries are generally about matters of deep interest, his replies are noted down with all possible dispatch, and his advice carefully and confidently followed. The evidence of true inspiration, is the rapidity with which his wounds heal, and the success which attends his prescriptions.

How far Satan may be allowed to assist in these

delusions, none can determine; but that there must either be something like infernal intervention, or most stupid credulity—perhaps both—appears very probable to those who have any tolerable acquaintance with heathen lands.

April 14th.—This afternoon vve rode about six miles into the country, and attended a Chinese ceremony which reminded us of the " bloody rites of Moloch." It occurs on the birth-day of one ofthe Taou gods, and is performed by running barefoot through a large heap of ignited charcoal. The pile, which was about ten or twelve feet square, and nearly two feet in height, threw out an intense heat. The crowd was large, and the crash of gongs almost deafening. On our arrival we found two priests standing near the fire earnestly reading a book, though the noise drowned their voices, and performing a variety of strange acts, apparently enjoined in its pages. One of them held a cow's horn in his hand, with which he occasionally added to the noise; while the other, after burning paper and making his obeisance, advanced to the fire, sprinkled water upon the heap, struck it violently with a sword, threw in more of the paper, bowed his head, and frequently gazed upwards with an expression of most intense earnestness, his whole body being, as might be expected, bathed in perspiration. After this they both approached the fire, went through a number of antics, and finally dashed through the coals. A passage

was kept clear from an adjacent temple to the spot, and as soon as the priests had set the example, a number of persons, old and young, came running from the temple with idols in their hands, and carried them through the fire. Others followed the example, and among them an old man, who rather staggered than walked into the midst of the heap. This part of the ceremony lasted but a few minutes, and the crowd soon dispersed.

It is thought to be a test of the moral character of those who attempt it. If they have a " true heart," and faith in the god, it is alleged they are never injured. It is performed by some in fulfilment of a vow made in times of danger or necessity. One of the votaries last year fell down in the midst of the pile, and was severely burned. O ur budget of Chinese tracts was disposed of as speedily as they could be handed out: indeed it was necessary to check their violence in snatching them away.

26th.—Mr. Medhurst has a number of schools, both Malay and Chinese, in which Christian books are introduced, and over which himself and Mr. Young maintain a strict superintendence. The parents are willing that he should have the direction of the school, on condition that he pay a proportion of the teacher's wages. I have visited them many times, and have been favourably impressed by the course pursued in rendering intelligible to their minds the truths of Christianity and the absurdity of

Paganism. It is certainly one of the most effectual means which could be adopted of establishing the one system upon the ruins of the other.

In striking contrast to these, and indeed to all schools conducted on the ordinary principles of European teaching, are the attempts of the native school-masters to instruct their pupils.

This morning we walked a short distance into the country, to distribute tracts in the adjacent campongs, and among the travellers who are constantly passing to and from the town. The noise of school-boys attracted our attention; and, upon coming to the shed in which they were assembled, we found fifteen of the native children conning the Arabic Koran in a loud sin°*-song* tone. Not seeing the teacher, we inquired for him, and found that he was employed in cultivating his land, some distance from them, while they amused themselves in this unprofitable exercise. The teacher confessed that he did not understand what was contained in the book, and that he was persuaded of the unprofitableness of such instructions as he could give; but he said the importunity of the parents imposed a necessity upon him.

To read the Koran in a certain tone of voice, without comprehending a word of its meaning, is the object and acme of education among the indolent Malays. The only advantage is, that they become acquainted with the Arabic character, which is employed in writing their own language, and which

assists them to understand Christian books in the vernacular tongue. They are generally willing to attend to any religious conversation, and seldom refuse a tract, especially when its contents are previously made the subject of remark.

May 6th (Friday).—On Wednesday morning, at six o'clock, we left this place in a Government vehicle, and reached Bitenzorg, the residence of the Governor, in about four hours. The distance is thirty-nine miles. The Governor, it is said, performs the journey iu two hours and a half, or three hours, and men of less distinction and fewer advantages generally in four. Our conveyance was exceedingly shabby, and the horses puny and way-worn. Although apprehensive that the old vehicle might give way, nothing occurred to stop our progress but the escape of one of the poneys, which, by some unaccountable means, cleared himself from the harness and ran away.

The palace, as the residence of the Governor is called, is rather a splendid edifice, built in the form of a crescent, though with a glaring architectural blunder. It has one window more on one side than on the other, which makes the building appear as though it had a deficiency in the curve. It has a park in front, stocked with deer; and an extensive garden in the rear, laid out and ornamented in a handsome style. The ground is undulating, the walks are broad and well gravelled, the trees and shrubbery rare and beautiful, and the scene is adorned

with lakes, bridges, a small island, a jet-d'eau, and a cascade. It is kept up at an expense to Government of seven thousand rupees a month.

Between Bitenzorg and the neighbouring mountains, which lift their lofty heads ten or eleven thousand feet above the sea, the face of the country is much more diversified and beautiful than the low unvarying level of Batavia. We were in hopes of having a clear view of the crater, the smoke of which is distinctly seen from Batavia, but an intervening peak completely hid it from our sight before we reached Bitenzorg. Among the objects of curiosity in this place is an old tablet, the characters of which, as far as I have been able to ascertain, are entirely distinct from any thing to be found in present use, or in antiquarian research.

Our time was spent in visiting the Chinese and native villages, and distributing tracts. The camp ofthe Chinese—for so their settlements are denominated—is extensive and populous. They listened attentively to the instructions of Mr. Medhurst, and received the books with pleasure.

In our visits among the Javanese we called upon the ex-royal family, who still exercise the highest functions entrusted by Government to the natives. Their establishment is very commodious, and though without splendour, much superior to any of the buildings I have yet seen. The present Governor is fifty-seven years of age; and his father, who in his

old age has become a Mahommedan priest, eightyone. There are five generations now living, and the old man numbers no less than two hundred and fifty descendants. Our books were received at the palace with politeness, and a number of them distributed in the villages.

The principal Chinaman in authority at Bitenzorg returned to Batavia with us. Though without any apparent regard for Christianity, he appears so well persuaded of the absurdity and evil consequences of many of the established superstitions, that he has been opposing them by all the weight of his authority, and with considerable success. A small temple, which they venerated for its mystic influence, has been removed, and houses have been erected on its site. The custom of calling in those to prescribe for the sick, whom they suppose to have the power of being possessed by the devil at their pleasure, and to whose absurd vagaries they attach the highest virtue, has been abolished. The influence of the priests has been attacked and diminished; and other measures are contemplated, which will tend, though unintentionally on his part, to prepare the way for a purer and less cumbrous faith. Mr. M. spent great part of the time in teaching the nature and enforcing the reasonableness of the Christian religion upon the mind of our fellow-traveller. Wherever we go there is an extensive field of usefulness, all prepared to the labourer's hand.

These facts, recorded at the time, shew what an extensive sphere there is for missionary exertion in Java. At the same time they give but a very partial view of the various scenes of labour and interest which might have been visited daily, had our number been at all in proportion to our opportunities of usefulness. The towns, the roads, the native schools, and, above all, the passers, or bazaars (as they are termed in India), which are held in every part of the surrounding country, furnish scope for the zeal of a large number of missionaries.

These labours, together with the regular services in English and Malay, the visitation of the Chinese, the superintendence of schools, the never-ending study of languages and preparation of books; besides all the various charitable objects in which the missionary must be the chief agent, and his own domestic duties of every day's recurrence; constitute the immense burden which is made to rest upon the shoulders of one man. Soon may this neglected island receive from the Christian world that attention which is its due !

The three large settlements, Batavia, Samarang, and Soerabaya, ought to be immediately occupied, and made the head-quarters of missionary operation. From these points " ihe light of life " might radiate, until the rays met in every part of this dark domain.

The writer must add, with pain, that, since the

above was written, the prospect of unrestrained effort has assumed a less flattering aspect than when he resided at Batavia. Mr. Bruckner, who was absent at that time from the island for the purpose of printing some works in the Javanese language, and who returned soon afterwards, was arrested by the authorities, in the midst of a most interesting series of labours. The eager natives were thronging his house to receive the tracts he brought with him, when the Government officers interfered, took away the books, and placed'a veto upon their future distribution.

The following fact is extracted from the fifth numberof the first-volume of theChineseRepository— aworkdeservingthe perusal of all who take an interest in the history, literature, religion, present condition, and prospects of China and the neighbouring kingdoms and islands. "Tbe whole population of a small village, wishing* to become Christians, and to be instructed in the truths of the Gospel, requested the Resident at Soerabaya to send them a teacher, with Bibles. This he refused, declaring that he would not allow them to become Christians, as they were quite happy enough without Christianity; and further, that Christian tracts, in the Javanese language, have been confiscated, and the funds of the Dutch Bible Society occasionally applied to purposes merely literary."

It is the opinion of those who have recently visited

Java, that the most serious embarrassments would be thrown in the way of extensive missionary operations. They say that it now requires permission from the Government at home for a foreigner to become burgher, and that those who are not enfranchised cannot travel in the interior. Besides this, the local officers have it in their power to prevent the circulation of books among the natives, and they appear determined to exercise that power. These facts certainly cannot have been rightly represented to the King of Holland, or we have reason to believe that the evils would soon be corrected. The bugbear of insurrection, by which those who oppose missions profess to be frightened themselves, and attempt to scare others, cannot alarm one who knows the tendency of Christian principles. We sincerely hope that the subject will be investigated by the authorities in the mother country, and that the present and eternal happiness of so many millions of souls will not be allowed to yield to the cruel and unwise policy of a few local officers. If the same liberty which is enjoyed throughout every part of British India were allowed the missionaries in this and the neighbouring islands, rebellions would be no more frequent than in Hindostan, and the greatest advantage would soon be realized by all parties.

CHAPTER IX.

PASSAGE FROM JAVA TO SINGAPORE.

On Saturday evening, June 4th, I embarked in the English ship Bencoolen, Captain Roberts, for Singapore. The next morning, before day-break, we weighed anchor, and, availing ourselves of the land breeze, stood to sea. After sailing gently for a day or two, and passing a few unimportant islands, we entered the Straits of Banca, between the island of that name and Sumatra. The tin mines on Banca, in the possession of the Dutch, are said to yield a large quantity of good metal.

The immense island of Sumatra, extending about one thousand miles in length, and varying from one to two hundred in breadth, lay before us like a motionless sea. The maritime parts on both sides are low and marshy, though it is intersected longitudinally by chains of unequal mountains, some of them nearly as high as the loftiest summits of the Alps. We passed the mouths of several large rivers, the current from which appeared to reach the opposite 6ide of the strait.

Sumatra is divided into a number of distinct,

i

independent kingdoms; the most important of which are known by the names of Menangkaboo Balla, and Ballumary or Kampang.

In former times the whole island was subject to the kingdom of Menangkaboo, and at the present day its sultan combines the influence of a sovereign prince with that ofa Moslem pontiff. The Dutch, before their recent expulsion and massacre, had succeeded in conquering this strong-hold of the country, and establishing themselves, as they thought, in perpetual security. Had they retained their dearly bought possession, they could, in all probability, have commanded the resources of the island. A carriage road connects this central spot with Padang, about a half-a-day's journey to the west; and a large river opens a free communication with the east, by which its products are transported to Singapore. The inhabitants of this ancient kingdom were early converted to Islamism. Pangarooyoong, its capital, is a chief resort of pilgrims of that religion, and was formerly the great seat of literature in the island. The natives of Menangkaboo have outstripped all their neighbours in letters and the arts. They have borrowed the Arabic character, and " their whole literature consists in transcripts from the Koran, and in bold historic tales." They have long been famed for their delicate workmanship in gold, and for the manufacture of arms.

In the country of Balla, which includes the

northern division of the island, is the famous kingdom of Acheen, with which foreigners are well acquainted. It carries on a considerable trade with some parts of India; its sultan being the principal merchant of the place. The inhabitants are more muscular, industrious, and sagacious, than the other natives of the island: they profess the faith of Mahommed, and are said to exemplify some of its sanguinary principles. They are under the iron sway of a hereditary despotism, and subject to laws as rigorous as they are partial in their penal inflictions. The most severe punishments generally fall upon the lowest classes of society.

In the interior of this general division of the island, is the beautiful country ofthe Battas, part of which stretches over a spacious champaign between two ridges of mountains, and is adorned with an extensive lake. This region of the island, as also that of Acheen, is represented as exceedingly populous; it is subdivided into numerous petty principalities, occupied by independent tribes. The natives, though spirited, have shewn themselves inoffensive in their conduct towards traders, and respectful and hospitable towards the Europeans who have occasionally visited them. They are described as fairer and smaller than the Malays; fond of dress; and more partial to horse-flesh than to any other species of animal food. Polygamy is common among them. The women are employed as slaves,

i 2

while the men pass away the time in war, indolence, gambling, and childish amusements. Such is their estimate of the difference between the sexes, that they visit the same offence with a much more severe punishment upon the men, than upon their more ignorant and less culpable wives. They shew their detestation of certain crimes by devouring the criminal; prisoners of war often receive no better treatment. Like the generality of heathen tribes, they are exceedingly superstitious in matters of sorcery. They believe in two deities, of totally opposite character; though the best informed writers affirm that they have no idea ofa future state. The Dutch settlements of Tapanooly and Natal lie in this section of the island. Like the inhabitants of Acheen, they entertain a superstitious regard for the sultan of Menangkaboo.

In Ballumary, or Kampang, the third division mentioned, are the kingdom of Palembaug, and the country ofthe Lampoons. The former comprehends the south-eastern portion of Sumatra, and the latter extends to its southern extremity. Immense and impenetrable forests cover a large region of this southern division of the island : the inhabitants are generally poor, and their customs much the same as those of their neighbours. Palembaug, where the Dutch had a factory, is described as a large city, inhabitedby emigrants from China, Siam, and Java, as well as by the natives ofthe country.

Besides these kingdoms there are many independent states, situated on almost every large river, and whose general features are much the same as those of the tribes already described.

What an immense sphere does this island present for missionary exertion ! The Dutch and English have alternately held the foreign stations ofthe island, and the latter have sent a few missionaries to Bencoolen and Padang; but the great work of converting the millions of its inhabitants to Christ was neither set about nor prosecuted with sufficient energy. At present there is not a single missionary upon the island. The writer became acquainted with a pious gentleman, resident at Padang, who promised to furnish such a statement of the country and its inhabitants as would interest the Christian community, and supply hints for their benevolent efforts. Since then the Dutch have been forcibly driven from their settlements, and many of them massacred by the enraged natives; and whether the person referred to, and a companion of congenial sentiments, have escaped, is uncertain, as no intelligence has been received from them since the dreadful catastrophe.

Some of the islands near the west coast of Sumatra are described as fertile and populous. Pulo Nyas is inhabited by an interesting race of men, who are remarkably ingenious, and carry on an extensive traffic. The place seems to present an exceedingly

favourable opening for missionary labours, and we know of no obstacles to their immediate commencement.

Along the whole line of this western coast of Sumatra, and among the adjacent islands, the pious merchant has it in his power to exert the greatest influence. It is a favourite resort for trading vessels from England and America, and, according to the testimony of one who has been engaged in the traffic, the most dishonest and dishonourable means are often employed in defrauding the natives. Should houses of commerce, superintended by pious agents, be established in the most populous and advantageous positions; and should ships, in their visits to other places of trade, carry with them those who are capable of instructing the natives; immense good would infallibly accrue to the heathen.

On our way to Singapore we passed a number of islands, which are occupied by pirates, who infest the adjacent seas, and watch for such vessels as they suppose may be safely and successfully attacked. Three masts generally afford a security; though some ships have been assailed notwithstanding, and those of the crew who remained to tell the tale, with difficulty effected their escape. We saw a number of proas in the Straits of Banca, but either our appearance was too formidable to invite an encounter, or they too peaceful to attack us.

The Sabbath was a day of delightful serenity, and the enjoyment of its hallowed privileges added not a little to its tranquillizing features. The willingness with which the tracts were received and read, by both passengers and crew, afforded a fresh proof of the importance of being always furnished with a supply of these powerful and unobtrusive monitors.

On Monday morning we weighed anchor early, having been becalmed the previous night, and stood through the straits lying between Pulo Battam and the Great Dryon. It is doubtful whether any ships had passed that way since 1803. It proved to be a safe, and in many respects an advantageous passage. The land on both sides is uniform, and the scenery perfectly wild, and rather interesting. I do not recollect ever to have sailed so great a distance among such a number of scattered islands.

On Tuesday morning, June 14th, the ship came to anchor in Singapore Roads. The harbour of Singapore is very extensive. It is surrounded by numerous islands, stretching far in the distance, and is capable of affording safe anchorage to any number of shipping.

There is nothing very striking in the aspect of the place. The site ofthe business part ofthe town is either a depresssd hill or a redeemed jungle. Most of the private residences are situated upon a plain of considerable extent; while a few mansions, crowning the adjacent hills, relieve the dull uniformity which a level situation gives to so many Eastern

towns. Being a free port for all but Americans, many European ships and native craft are generally lying in the harbour.

On my arrival I found the missionaries well, and Mr. Tomlin on the eve of embarking for Siam. Mr. {empty}T. had been waiting a long time for an opportunity, and this very vessel had been detained, contrary to all expectation, beyond the appointed period of sailing. The very day of my arrival she obtained her port clearance, but, through the compliance of the captain, the time of sailing was deferred until Friday morning. By this concurrence of circumstances an opportunity was providentially afforded for making all those arrangements which seemed most important, before leaving Singapore.

It was cheering to find from the missionaries, that the same disposition to receive Christian books which was manifested by the Malays at Batavia, prevailed also at this and some of the neighbouring stations. The change is of very recent date, and the hearts and hands of the missionaries are strengthened in their work.

On Friday, June 17th, we embarked in an Arab vessel, with a European commander, for Siam. Mr. Tomlin; Mr. Daniell, a pious officer in the Indian army; and myself, were obliged to occupy the same half of the poop-cabin. The opposite side contained two of the supercargo's wives, who were never seen by any but their husband and servants. The crew

consisted of forty-six men, chiefly Arabs, and consequently Mahommedans. There was something in their expressive features and muscular forms which completely distinguished them from the Bengalese and Malays. The prominent nose, penetrating eye, curling locks, and heavy beard, characterized the greater number. Their conduct, too, was strikingly opposed to any thing I had ever witnessed in any other vessel. Five times a day they bent the knee and bowed the head in social worship. The principal services are performed at day-dawn and sun-set.

At these seasons the muezzin ascended the quarter-deck—the only thing on board-ship which would answer the purpose of a minaret—and, stopping his ears with his fingers, to exclude all earthly sounds, proclaimed in the most serious manner the appointed hour for prayer. He was soon joined by the majority, who, with their faces toward the west, the direction of the Moslem's kiblah from our present position, spent about half an hour in their fruitless task. They heed not the presence of man; never miss the hour of prayer; and express an earnestness which testifies that they have not the most remote suspicion of their dreadful delusion. The mate generally leads the devotions, standing a short distance in advance of the rest. The countenances of some of them were deathfully solemn; and their voices, especially when mingled in general response, of a deep sepulchral tone.

I 5

In their intercourse with each other they evince a cheerfulness, and apparent affection, which is seldom found among European sailors. There is, it is true, much less distinction between the officers and common sailors, and much more liberty taken by the latter, than in the generality of other vessels; but every object of subordination is gained; and though inclined to sport, the command is obeyed with prompt activity. These deluded men entertain a belief that within two centuries all Christians are to be converted to their faith. I could almost wish for the gift of tongues, to be the instrument of teaching them their error, and pointing them to that Saviour, whose spreading kingdom will blot out the very name of their deceiver from under heaven, perhaps long before that period has elapsed. Some, to whom Arabic Bibles were offered, received them with pleasure, and devoted much time to their examination. They soon discovered the inconsistency between the practice of nominal Christians, and the precepts of the Saviour.

Our room was consecrated to the worship of the true God, and the sacrifice of morning and evening praise was there offered up. The usual services ofthe Sabbath were also performed. The Captain, the only European on board, attended on all these occasions.

We had the coast of the Malayan peninsula and the neighbouring islands in view, for the first half of the passage. The former is a range of abrupt, irregular

hills, flanked in many places by peaks of the same character, though of different altitudes, and presenting an appearance which might be easily mistaken by the distant observer for towers, pagodas, minarets, fortifications, and castles. We were frequently struck with the sun-set splendour of the heavens, and led to admire the glories of that Being of whom his most lovely works are but a faint reflection.

On Thursday, June 30th, 1831, we arrived at the bar off the mouth of the Meinam, and cast anchor. The coast of Siam is so low, that at the usual distance of the horizon at sea it can be distinguished only as a roughness, without any undulation. English vessels are obliged, by the treaty with that Government, to wait here for a pilot. It is said to be impossible for large ships to cross the bar except at the highest tides; the water seldom exceeding eighteen feet, and rising at times not above twelve or fourteen. Understanding that the pilot would not be on board for a week, we left the ship on Saturday in the jolly-boat for Bankok. About five o'clock we reached Paknam, a small village some three or four miles from the shore of the sea.

The Siamese have attempted to render the river impassable to foreign invaders. A barrier of large piles, many yards in width, runs from one bank tothe other, with the exception of a narrow passage for vessels; each shore is lined with a battery; and a large fortification or castle has been erected in the

stream, to command the approach, as well as to obstruct the passage. The appearance of this castle, with a small spiral pagoda or monument at a short distance, is imposing and beautiful.

It was our intention to pass Paknam without stopping; but the King's officers hailed us, and the Governor detained the Captain about an hour. The old gentleman employed the time in asking such questions, and offering such remarks, as were dictated by his curiosity, and his still more insatiable cupidity. During this interview, the passengers, who had remained in the boat, afforded considerable amusement to the natives, by partaking of a cold repast. We prevailed upon them to taste the biscuit and beer on which we were feasting, and received, in return, shell-fish, and segars made of a dried leaf rolled up, and enclosing a little cut tobacco. Many of the men were muscular, and symmetrical in form, probably selected purposely for the service in which they are engaged.

Tbe Siamese shave the head, all but the crown, where the hair is allowed to grow sufficiently long to give it the uprightness and apparent rigidity of bristles. Their dress is scanty; the limbs and upper part of the body being exposed. There is no difference in this respect, from the king to his meanest subject. The women are almost as slightly clothed as the men. It is an universal custom with both sexes to chew the betel and cere, and, among the men,

from early youth to the most decrepit age, there is scarcely an exception to the habit of smoking. Between the two the jaws are seldom allowed to rest.

From Paknam to Bankok the distance is about twenty-five or thirty miles. We left the former place about six in the evening, and arrived at half past twelve. We were entertained on the way by many objects of interest and novelty.

The Meinam is a noble river; its average width is about half a mile; and it is sufficiently deep at Bankok to admit the largest ships which can pass the bar. Its banks are low, and covered with jungle. The lights on the shore were numerous in many places; and we were convinced, from their reflection in the river, that the houses were built upon piles or rafts. In one or two places our ears were saluted by music, whicii came over the water, at this late and silent hour, with a soothing melody. The instruments were chiefly on the percussion principle, and the soft and delicate harmony of their tones formed a perfect contrast to the harsh strains with which we had been tortured in China. But the objects of our greatest admiration were the swarms of fire-flies covering the shore, and passing from one side of the river to the other. Though not to be compared, in size or brilliancy, to the famed lantern-fly (fulgora laternaria) of South America, described by Madame Merian, still

" Innumerous tribes

From the wood-cover swarmed, and darkness made Their beauties visible : one while they streamed A bright blue radiance upon flowers that closed Their gorgeous colours from the eye of day; Now, motionless and dark, eluded search, Self-shrouded; and anon, starring the sky,

Rose like a shower of fire *."

Thousands of these insects would light together on one tree, and give it a most beautiful and vivid illumination. There appeared to be a complete uniformity in the motions of them all—so that the glare would break forth and close in as though they inhaled a common breath, or emitted their light by some other simultaneous impulse. It required no stretch of fancy to imagine ourselves in those fairy regions of which we had heard in childhood, especially as we were inclined to indulge in transient slumbers, and would frequently awake from forgetfulness to the novel and dreamy pictures around us.

In one place, where the natives were on the lookout, and where, as we have since ascertained, there is a fort, we were hailed, and asked a number of questions. Having obtained permission to proceed, we did not stop, but told them our destination, and heeded not nor understood their cries.

Before we left the ship, we visited one of the Chinese junks, which was waiting on the bar for a favourable wind, and were much disappointed to learn that Mr. Gutzlaff had sailed a few days before for

• Southey's Madoc.

China. As there were Christian books in the junks, and some of the sailors were well acquainted with his history, there was little reason to doubt the correctness ofthe statement. We were thus prepared to hear that he had actually embarked on the expedition in which his heart has been absorbed, and for which Divine Providence had now opened a way.

Soon after midnight we reached the residence of Signor Carlos de Silveira, the Portuguese consul, who received us with much kindness and hospitality. This gentleman entertained the missionaries during the early part of their first visit; assigned them a house on his own lands; and when they were opposed by the Roman Catholics, and, through them, by the native authorities, continued their warm friend, notwithstanding the menace of expulsion from the Siamese dominions, and loss of all his property. The same disinterested kindness has ever been evinced by R. Hunter, Esq., the only English merchant in the place, who in the time of their greatest trial received the missionaries into his house, and exerted all his influence on their behalf—determined to risk every thing rather than have them driven from the kingdom. Mr. H. remains in this country, and will doubtless ever render to the missionaries all the assistance which his well-known character, and the rank the king has conferred upon him, enable him to afford.

CHAPTER X.

SIAM — CONTINUED.

The writer spent six months at Siam on his first visit; which time was devoted to the study of the Chinese and Siamese languages, and to the ordinary duties of the mission. A few general remarks, founded upon the information obtained at that time, and corrected and enlarged by a succeeding visit, will give the reader some idea of the place and its inhabitants.

The country, as far as regards scenery and improvements, is extremely uninteresting. There is not a hill—scarcely a mound—to interrupt the dead level which spreads in a wide compass round the capital. The soil is exceedingly productive; it surpasses, in the rich variety and abundance of its fruits, nearly all the adjacent regions, and is probably not surpassed by any country ofthe East*.

Bankok, the capital, is situated upon the Meinam. The palaces of the two kings, and of some of the

• Besides its more valuable productions, Siam abounds in the most delicious fruits of the East, plantains, oranges, shadachs, durians, the bread fruit, and, above all, the mangosteen and mango, in the greatest perfection.

princes, are enclosed within a wall, while the suburbs extend about two or three miles above and below the royal residences, on each side of the river. As the houses are generally situated upon the water, or near its edge, the river may be considered as the highway, the mart and the pleasure-grounds of the city. Here the mass of the population reside, carry on their business, and take their recreation. The most projecting row of houses is built upon bamboo rafts, and moored or secured to fixtures upon shore. Of course their locality can be changed without difficulty, and, sometimes, without the concurrence of the inmates. It is no uncommon thing to see them come floating down the stream, with all their contents, set adrift, perhaps, by ships in their vicinity, and carrying away, in their turn, those against which they may be driven by the impulse first received, or the eddies into which they are whirled.

Those houses which are situated nearer the shore, or partly on the bank ofthe river, are founded upon piles raised above the rise of the tides. These are generally inhabited, although some of the best are only used as cool retreats for the kings and men of wealth, who live on shore. In many places, the dwellings retire some distance from the margin of the river, and either form a narrow extended street, as on the city side of the water; or branch off towards the interior; or are scattered over the face of the country, amid gardens, jungle, and rice-fields. There are many

interesting and varying views up the winding course ofthe Meinam. The finest specimens of architecture are the temples, which generally occupy the best sites, and cover, with the array of monastic buildings attached to them, a large area of ground. These, and the palaces, glittering with gold and other ornaments, together with a few mansions belonging to the princes, derive no trifling part of their apparent magnificence from the contiguity and contrast of the mean huts composing the remainder of the city.

In passing along the river, many rural beauties are fancied to exist on shore. A variety of palms, the bread fruit, the silk cotton (bombax cliba), the tamarind, with a profusion of other less majestic though equally valuable trees—all flourishing in this congenial soil, and blooming in the richest luxuriance —appear like groves, and arbours, and parks; while the houses and temples, peeping through self-formed avenues, are mistaken for dwellings of taste and comfort. But the place is disenchanted of its beauty the moment the shore is gained. The temples excepted, where some little pains and ingenuity are displayed, every thing is improvable, but nothing improved. Neither order, convenience, ornament, nor comfort, are consulted in the situation and structure of their houses.

In and near the city, a few streets have been laid out, while in many parts, instead of accommodating the houses to any line of roads, the roads or paths

are interrupted, and bent in almost every direction, by the encroachment of the buildings. The want of roads and good foot-paths, and of almost all conveniences for out-door exercise, is one of the most serious objections to a residence in Siam. The natives, like their god Budh, appear to luxuriate in indolence, and consequently, when obliged to move, are contented with the most passive modes of locomotion. The rivers, creeks, and canals, are so numerous, that they can go in boats to almost every place where business or pleasure calls them.

There are many points of painful interest connected with the state of society in Siam. Its population, consisting of four or five millions of souls, is made up of Siamese, natives of Laos, Carubojians, Peguins, Malays, Burmese, descendants of Portuguese, CochinChinese, and Chinamen.

With the exception of the Chinese, who pay a triennial capitation sum, this whole population is divided into two classes—those who are bound to perpetual slavery, and those who are submitted to a service tax of a portion of their time. The former are either conquered enemies, from the country of Laos and the Malayan Peninsula, or stolen subjects from the frontiers of Burmah and Pegu. Twenty thousand Laos captives were transferred at one time from their native land, and distributed among the Siamese princes and men of authority. These poor creatures are more oppressed than all their

fellowslaves. On entering the palaces of the kings, and mansions of the great, it is distressing to witness men and women of every age toiling in fetters, as though the clank of their chains was music in the ears of their cruel lords. The reason assigned for such inhumanity, is the fear of their escape; but one is strongly tempted to believe, from this and other cruelties equally revolting, that they estimate their own importance as much by the misery as the multiplicity of their slaves. Many of this class, having no employment at home, are sent out to labour for the benefit of their masters; some of whom own several thousands, and derive considerable emolument from their services.

It is not uncommon to expose these unfortunate beings to sale, often at the most reduced prices, and to have them purchased even by the officers of Government, for a traffic as vile as the deepest depravity could suggest. Numbers of females are daily sent forth in the most disgraceful capacity, and if they do not return at night with the sum fixed by their masters, they are often cruelly beaten. If they refuse this odious life—and some of them have spurned its debasement—the master is quite at liberty as to the mode and measure of the punishment. To the number of slaves already mentioned, must be added the children whom the alleged necessities of their parents oblige them to sell, and who are bought for any purpose which their covetous or licentious masters may choose.

The other class referred to, who are submitted to a service tax of part of their time, includes all the remaining inhabitants of the country, with the exception of the Chinese. Even the natives of Siam, and the nominal Christians, the descendants of Portuguese, are among the number. These, some of the more wealthy excepted, are reduced to a state of partial slavery, being obliged to employ much of their time in the King's service, and receiving for their labour the smallest compensation. If they are not so fortunate as to lay by a small store during their liberty for this hour of need, or if their wives and children are unsuccessful in a petty trade, by which many of them subsist, they and their families are reduced to the greatest straits.

By the laws of the land, or the neglect of their administration, they are allowed to pilfer from the poor hucksters such eatables as their necessities require, and their strength can secure. The Chinese who sell vegetables and fruit, complain bitterly of this custom—redress is out of the question. Some of this class have little or no time to themselves— others have the liberty of one-third, one-half, and two-thirds of the year; what are the particular rules of this difference I am not informed. Those slaves and subjects who are allotted by the King to the princes and officers of Government, have the names of their masters written upon their arms, and are quite at their controul.

The more respectable and wealthy, mentioned as exceptions to this system of service taxation, are exceptions only to a limited extent. They are either employed as civil or military officers in his Majesty's service, or are obliged to procure a substitute for their own bodily labour. In fact, with all their boast of freedom—and freemen is the appellation by which the nation is known, in their own language—Siam is a land of slaves; the King being the only exception to universal vassalage. His Majesty can employ any subject, upon any business, for any length of time, under any circumstances, and upon any conditions. A portion of almost every day is spent by the officers and the princes, in lying prostrate before him, and awaiting his pleasure.

The Chinese have been mentioned as enjoying more liberty and greater advantages than others. Even they groan under the burden of taxes, and when convicted of crime—often unjustly as they affirm —are made to expiate their guilt by manual labour continued beyond all bounds of equitable punishment. Many of them, while toiling daily, and throughout the day, for the King, are thrown for their sustenance upon the mercy of their friends, the charity of the public, or those dishonourable measures which the starving in his Majesty's service are allowed to employ.

As a necessary consequence of these oppressive customs, poverty is a common evil. The great mass of the inhabitants have barely enough to support their

existence, even upon the most simple fare. During the term of service required by their masters, they scarcely receive sufficient for their individual maintenance; and even their own time, when made available to private interest, is not secure from an arbitrary call to extra service, or to war. At one season of the year crowds of boats are moored abreast of the palace. These belong to men who reside in the country, and who are annually called from their homes and ricefields, to spend two or three months in practising the art of gracefully paddling the king's boats. During all this term of useless service they are under the necessity of supporting themselves, and neglecting their families.

The misery of the nation is increased by the corrupt administration of justice. Many of the laws are equitable, but, alas! they are only imperative when the judge can make them answer a private end. Of the unwritten statutes, which, like the traditions of the elders, are the only ones deemed practical, the most imperative law is the royal nod; the next is the pleasure of his prime minister; and so on, through the descending scale of official rank, the superior has the controul of the inferior, and his will the precedence

of the litera scripta.

The all-absorbing object, from the throne to the lowest bench of justice, is self-aggrandizement. Even the monarch appears to regard his own interest as perfectly distinct from the prosperity of his subjects.

In times of scarcity, as the writer has witnessed, there is frequently no provision made for the suffering poor, when it might be effected with little cost or trouble. In fact, such is the power of money, that multitudes prefer putting up with indignities and losses—for which the law, according to its letter and intention, would afford redress—rather than be compelled to risk the endurance of the additional suffering attendant on an appeal to justice, caused by necessary bribes, or an unjust decision.

Besides these evils, over which the common people have no controul, there are others, of a moral nature, which greatly aggravate their present sufferings. Among these is the abuse of the marriage contract, with its train of complicated miseries. Polygamy is in high vogue. The king's seraglio contains between five hundred and a thousand women; and all the princes -in fact the whole kingdom—have no other limitation to numbers than their wishes and wealth. The poorer classes are of course restricted by necessity, and one evil is thus checked by another.

Connected with this multiplication of wives, and its consequent relaxation of all the ties of kindred and affection, there are other prevalent customs in Siam, quite as fatal to human happiness. A man who is unsuccessful in gambling, or reduced to poverty by other means, may sell his wife, with the liberty of redeeming her for the same sum and the expenses she has incurred; or if his admiration of her good

qualities ceases, he may put her away and procure another. If the wife was purchased—a common substitute for courtship—and has no children, there is generally no difficulty in dissolving the connexion. If she be able to pay the amount of her original purchase, she may have the same power over her husband. In ordinary cases, however, the concurrence of both parties is so far necessary, that the rejected one, whose consent has not been obtained, can claim a support, or a sum of money as an indemnification.

A man who fancies the wife of another can generally obtain her, if his dignity or wealth gives him the advantage of her husband; and a creditor, if he can get nothing else, can take the wife and children of the insolvent. If the happiness of individuals and of society at large depend upon the inviolable sanctity of the marriage contract, which its very institution would proclaim, it will readily be believed that such an abuse of all that is sacred in the most important relation of life, must prove fatal to every thing but the mere semblance of domestic enjoyment.

Gambling is another source of depravity and wretchedness in Siam. The king derives a large revenue from this licensed evil; and the demoniacal spirit it engenders, and the dreadful crimes it instigates, prove it to be a moral maelstrom, where the happiness and hopes of thousands are for ever lost.

The shameless indecency of language and dress.

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the latter of which has been already referred to, is also productive of great evils. The epithets of abuse most common in this kingdom would shock vulgarity itself in civilized countries, and yet this is the language employed by high and low, men and women, from the angry mother to her suckling, and from the stammering child to its offending parent. It is impossible to go abroad, or to listen to those who pass the house, without hearing the vilest terms mixed up with expressions of anger, and gracing every effort at pleasantry.

Besides these prevalent evils, lying, cheating, and pilfering are exceedingly common; robbery and murder by no means rare. Those who have commercial dealings with them, declare that dishonesty and deceit are, with few exceptions, characteristic of the nation. The meanness of the great to obtain favours, especially from foreigners, is despicable. They will accept any thing as a present, and offer nothing worth receiving in return—they will crave most importunately, and often cringingly, what they know you want—they will buy, and frequently endeavour to cheat the seller out of much of the stipulated sum—they will borrow, and never return —and when they can get nothing more from you, unless they desire your society for the sake of amusement, they never come near you.

This picture of the condition, moral and political, of Siam is a dark one. As far, however, as a careful

and minute examination can ensure correctness, it is delineated with justice. It has its lights, and those who have but a partial acquaintance with the place may suppose that we give it too deep a colouring, without considering that they behold it only in its most favourable aspect, and through a flattering medium.

Some of the more pleasing, and, to a hasty inspector, more discernible parts of the picture, we have hinted at. One is, the large number of Chinese whose condition is better than that of their fellowcitizens, and who make an important figure in the business of the place. Another, is the undue proportion of princes, who, like the feudal barons of old, move about in considerable style, and impress the mind with some idea of their importance. A third, is the overwhelming number of priests, whose office eonfers immunities—such as honour without respectability, and support without labour.

Besides these, the majority of the common people, who occupy the most conspicuous houses, are the fortunate class of tradesmen and shop-keepers, from whose prosperity it would be as unwise to deduce an opinion of the general condition of the people, as to take the most successful merchants at home as the criterion of the wealth of the community at large. Another light in the sketch, which, however, is but a reflected one, is the exceeding productiveness of the

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country, and of course the cheapness of the necessaries of life.

These things being the most obvious to those who pay only a transient visit to the place, who know nothing ofthe language, and have no opportunity of witnessing the interior of society,they imagine, as they do with respect to other heathen countries, that the people are happy, and that western refinement and religion would not improve their condition.

The religion of Siam is Buddhistic. We learn from the best authorities that there are more than twenty thousand priests in the kingdom, one-half or two-thirds of whom reside in Bankok and its vicinity. The temples are built at the expense of the King, or the principal men in the kingdom. His Majesty has shewn himself peculiary zealous in the maintenance of the state religion. He has many temples, with their monasteries, under his own patronage, which are called by his name, and supported by his royal bounty. These occupy the best grounds, and are built in a style of splendour with which nothing but the palace can compare.

A monthly allowance of rice and money from the public treasury is set apart for the support of the priests. Besides this, they enjoy not only the religious merits but the temporal advantages of mendicity. Every morning they sally forth to collect the alms of the people, and generally succeed in getting enough,

not only for themselves, but also for a host of human and canine pensioners, whom their charity attracts from every quarter. The rarest delicacies of the season are among the gifts with which they are loaded; and the women, who appear by far the most devout, never visit the temples without carrying such presents as their circumstances will permit.

The priesthood is composed of men of all classes in society. The temples or monasteries are the only schools of learning in the kingdom; and as education is very prevalent, there is scarcely an individual who does not pass some portion of his life in these establishments. Admittance may be obtained on the most easy terms. Any person may enter who can shew that he has an official release from the service tax, is not in debt, and has the consent of his wife or parents. Each may remain as long or as short a time as he pleases. When provisions are dear, many avail themselves of this easy mode of support, and while necessity presses, or indolence prompts, they enjoy all the honours and profits of the yellow robe. A large number take upon themselves the monastic vow for life, and spend all their days in the prescribed round of secular and sacerdotal duties.

The elders teach their younger brethren, preach at the pagodas or in private houses, solemnize marriages, attend at funerals, consecrate new houses, shave the heads of children, perform certain offices for the recovery of the sick and the absolution of the dead,

and visit those scenes where their sacred presence and magical arts are deemed necessary. In former days they decided difficult cases of judicature by enchantment; but since Mammon has usurped the throne of Justice, causes are found less complicated, and the services ofthe priests are superseded.

The priests are treated with a great shew of respect: even the King bows down in their presence, and the common people bestow on them the same sign of adoration with which they honour their idols. But this respect is little more than nominal, or, if real, it belongs to the robe, and not to the man. His Majesty, with all his professions of inferiority, reserves to himself the right of stripping off this sacred garment and punishing the unworthy wearer. Sometime ago the principal priest, or pope, was found guilty of some heinous misdemeanor; upon which he was disrobed, dishonoured, and made a servant to the royal elephants. The chief immunities attached to the priesthood are exemption from service tax and military duties. But here, again, the King has taken liberties upon some occasions, and shewn that his will and interests are superior to all the laws and rights of religion. Some years ago, many in the inferior grades of sanctity were drafted into the army; which occasioned the most turbulent commotion among them. It ended in a partial rebellion, a plot to assassinate the king, and finally in the apprehension of seven hundred of their own number.

With so few restraints, and surrounded by so many objects of temptation, it is rather surprising that any of them should maintain a consistent conduct; such is the case, however, with a few, who are intelligent, exemplary, and highly esteemed; but the majority bear a very different character, and pursue a disgraceful course of life.

The influence of all this display of idolatry upon the nation, argues very little in favour of the moral advantages of Buddhism. Those who are the most dishonest in the means they adopt to secure wealth, are often the most liberal supporters of the priests and their mummeries. In fact, a blind and nearly equal reverence for the priests and their idols, and a due regard to the temporal wants of the former, is too often the sum and substance of their practical religion.

The religion of Burmah, Pegu, and Laos, being the same, the natives of these respective countries who reside in Siam join in the worship of their masters.

The Chinese have brought their creed and their idols with them; and here, as at home, they worship their gods for temporal favours, and express their reverence only by " sacrificing to their net, and burning incense to their drag*." Many of them being Buddhists, they readily unite with the Siamese if any end is to be gained by doing so.

The Malays practise a species of Islamism, mixed

• Hab. i. 15.

up, probably, with some of the ancient rites and customs of their Pagan forefathers. They are exceedingly noisy in their devotions. At some seasons whole companies of them spend hours at a time in trilling out loud and long-drawn cries. The voices of men and women, of infancy, manhood, and decrepitude, are mingled in such grating and boisterous strains as completely to disturb the surrounding region, and to interrupt the repose of night.

The Portuguese profess a corrupt Catholicism, which resembles, in many respects, the superstitions of their Pagan neighbours, and proves quite as inert in its moral influence. There are about a thousand of them, who, with one or two respectable exceptions, are as deeply sunk in mental and moral debasement as the lowest class of Pagans around them. Destitute of the force of truth in their creed, of morals in their practice, of respectability in their character, and even of pecuniary shew in their external circumstances, their religion makes little or no progress among their heathen neighbours.

The deep degradation and scandalous immoralities of many of them, cast dishonour on the Christian name, to which they, as well as all their brethren in the East, most pertinaciously cling.

A person may form some idea of the comparative reasonableness of these different religions, without leaving his abode. One night he hears the bells and drums of Buddhism; the next, the wearisome

candory cries ofthe Mussulmans; the third, the gong, drums, and squibs of the Chinese; and the fourth, the bells, drums, crackers, and guns of the Roman Catholics, which seem determined to confound the confusion of them all, and to bear away the inglorious palm.

It is only very recently that any thing has been attempted by the Protestant world for the moral benefit of Siam. The first missionaries who visited the place belonged to other stations, and went to Siam unsent by the churches at home. Had it been left to their tardy operations, the probability is that thekingdom would still have been supposed inaccessible, or unimportant as a field for Christian missions.

In the autumn of 1828, Messrs. Gutzlaff and Tomlin arrived at Siam, and commenced an interesting series of labours, in the joint capacities of missionaries and physicians. Their journals are before the Christian public. Mr. Tomlin was driven from the place by ill health, after a residence of nine months, and Mr. Gutzlaff continued the duties ofthe mission for nearly three years. During this time, the New Testament, and parts of the Old, were translated, a vocabulary was formed, and two or three religious books written. One of the tracts was printed, and has been circulated. The other works required revision and correction, and, owing to a series of obstacles, have not been printed to this day. Mr. Gutzlaff had also the gratification of baptizing

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a Chinaman, who had renounced his idols and heathenish customs, and who, as far as could be judged, had been made " a partaker of the promise in Christ by the Gospel."

A few days after the departure of Mr. Gutzlaff for China, Mr. Tomlin and myself reached the place. We immediately unpacked our books—the published tract spoken of, and others in the Chinese language— opened the medical depository, engaged teachers, and commenced our labours. These interesting duties were continued for six months, when my fellowmissionary was called away to another sphere of exertion; and I was obliged, from the failure of my health, to try the effect of change of air and scene.

A narrative of events during this period has been published. Our time was most actively employed in labouring, to the extent of our ability, and in endeavouring to extend that ability. Throngs of patients, afflicted with almost every kind of disease, daily applied for relief; and crowds of applicants for books soon carried away our entire stock. Of the former number, many were greatly benefited. How far our spiritual applications were productive of good was not so easy to ascertain; although we have reason to believe that our " labours were not in vain in the Lord."

A few extracts from the journal kept at the time will give an idea of such facts as were thought worthy of being recorded.

Monday afternoon, July 4th, we called, with our friend Mr. Silveira, on the Prah Kiang, the director of all the commercial affairs of Bankok, and one of the principal ministers of state. On our way to his residence, about two miles from our present abode, we had the opportunity of seeing a part of the city, and its suburbs. For a long distance the houses are built on rafts, on each side ofthe river, and the only communication is by boats.

The dwellings and shops are constructed of a slender material, and covered with attap. Skiffs are employed by the natives for transporting their persons and light effects. These are so exceedingly small that their progress is very rapid : the paddler is obliged to sit in the middle and bottom ofthe boat; and even then, his life is endangered by the least want of skill, or agitation ofthe waves*.

The women, like those in China, bear a part in all kinds of drudgery, and become exceedingly coarse and immodest in appearance and conversation.

We landed abreast of the Prah Klang's dwelling, and, not finding him at home, proceeded a short distance to a pagoda, or rather a suite of buildings, about which he has been occupied for the last seven years. The princes and official men generally expend part of their income in erecting temples and supporting priests. What a reflection does this cast

• Many of them have been overturned in our sight, and numbers drowned within a short distance from our cottage.

upon those who, knowing the true God, and possessing abundant means for extending that knowledge, neither make provision for their own eternal welfare, nor impart their abused privileges to those who might improve them !

We were apprized of our approach to the presence of the Prah Kiang by the strange actions of our interpreter, a Portuguese by extraction, and the only admitted medium of communication between the great man and foreigners. When he saw him, though at the distance of twenty or thirty yards, he bent his body, and crept along like a sportsman approaching the game unobserved. In this inclining posture he continued until within a few yards of the object of his reverence, when he laid himself prostrate on the ground, and awaited the pleasure of his superior. We all approached, and tendered the obeisance required of foreigners—namely, taking off the hat, bowing, and sitting in his presence. Except a well-conditioned body held in an erect posture, while all the workmen and attendants walked with their heads as near the ground as possible, there was nothing to distinguish the old man from the lowest menial in his train. His person was entirely bare, with the exception of the cloth usually worn, and there was nothing in the texture of that to attract our attention.

He made a number of inquiries respecting our several offices, and especially our object in visiting Siam; and appeared satisfied when Mr. Tomlin

mentioned that we came on the same errand which had brought Mr. Gutzlaff and himself before. But that our fellow-passenger, Lieut. Daniell, should have come merely for the benefit of his health, was quite a paradox to the old man. The visit of a British officer by no means tended to allay the suspicions and fears with which the Burmese war had filled their neighbours. The interview soon closed. The interpreter was commanded to take us round, and shew us " the great Babylon" which the old gentleman was building, part of which he himself displayed for our admiration.

On Tuesday morning we breakfasted with Mr. M'Donell, the only European merchant in Siam, Mr. Hunter being absent; and afterwards went to the walls of the palace, to see the objects of curiosity there. Among a number of the largest elephants we ever saw, were the famed white ones of the king, supposed to be the habitations of former sovereigns, and kept with the greatest care. None but the most honoured and virtuous are thought to be favoured, after the present existence, with such a rare and dignified residence. Their hue is far from being white; it is nearer the colour of cream.

We walked nearly round the palace walls; but were not allowed to enter. They enclose an extensive area, and the buildings they contain appear, judging from the roofs and spires, to be both gaudy and commodious. We visited a large pagoda,

surrounded by many smaller apartments and lofty pillarsSome of the latter were of considerable elevation. The principal temple was closed, and the priests, who were lying about on their mats in the other buildings, shewed no disposition to gratify our curiosity. One of them, with whom we attempted to converse on the folly of idol-worship, threatened to tell the King that we were defaming his gods.

Early in the week we transferred our residence to the small house allotted to the missionaries by our hospitable friend. It stands upon poles, beneath which the waters constantly flow, and, though humble in appearance and scanty in dimensions, answers every purpose. Its super-aqueous situation and numerous crevices render it delightfully airy, and this is the point of chief importance in the summer of these tropical regions.

There are many solemn and awakening considerations suggested by this place. But a few months since its doors were opened to receive our brother and sister in this mission : now, the latter lies sleeping in death, but a short distance from us, and our fellow-labourer has been called away to other scenes of exertion. We feel impressed with the admonition, "Whatsoever thy hand findeth to do, do it with thy might *." God grant us grace to improve the lesson of His providence, and to " work while it is day."

25th.—The medical depository has been a scene of

Eccles. ix. lo.

much activity since our arrival, owing to the numerous calls for aid. The diseases ofthe natives are various; many of them brought upon themselves by their iniquities, and some of a deep and desperate malignity. Our want of extensive science and practice, especially as concerns myself, proves rather inconvenient in cases of a complicated nature; but our prescriptions are generally, and sometimes strikingly, made to answer the desired end.

31st.—To-day we had a number of calls, chiefly for medicine. One of the applicants was a Siamese of considerable distinction. Another did not come himself, but sent his servant with a very polite letter. The former evinced much confidence in our prescriptions, and could scarcely be prevented from giving ue a recompence. The chief grounds of our refusal to accept remuneration for medicines, are the importance of having this strong argument against the suspicions of the people, and the unimportance of the sum which they could or would bestow. The utmost caution is necessary, to secure the confidence of the natives; and we know of no better means by which our motives and object may be known and commended, than by proving that we act upon such principles of disinterestedness as they have never seen exemplified before.

The simplicity of the native character both amuses and interests us. Even men of some standing in society evince all the artlessness of children with us.

They examine with the most minute curiosity the texture and fashion of our dress, and not unfrequently extend their scrutiny to the body, proving with their hands the depth and breadth of the chest, the appearance of the hands, and arms, and face, and expressing with the utmost candour, as they proceed, their admiration or censure. They very often ask for whatever takes their fancy, though it may be in use; and if their request is refused, will point, if it be an article of dress, to other garments, which they suppose abundantly sufficient for one body, while they very significantly observe, that the greater part of their own is not even covered.

Though rather troublesome at present, we are pleased to find this characteristic so prominent. It shews us their idea of the superiority of foreigners, in some respects, at least, and we hope will render them less tenacious of their religious opinions, when they find them so totally different from the sentiments of more polished nations. Some of them display much affection and gratitude for the medicine and books. To-day the number of applicants for the latter has exceeded any thing of the kind we have yet witnessed : high and low, priests and people, men and women, old and young, natives and foreigners, all throng our cottage, and urge their suit with an eloquence which can scarcely be resisted. The small number of books, compared with the wants ofthe people, makes us cautious in their distribution,

and them earnest in their requests. The novelty of the thing is, no doubt, the great attraction. Still, we know that their hearts are in the Lord's hands, and that the heathen are the purchase and inheritance of the Saviour.

As the tract, though not clothed in Scripture phraseology, and not free from errors, is an epitome of God's word, and illustrates particularly the redemption of the Saviour, we are encouraged to believe that it shall produce effect.

August 1st.—Whenever the weather would allow of it, we have spent an hour or two before breakfast in teaching the people from house to house. They listen to the Gospel with attention, and though their own idolatry is plainly denounced, say nothing in vindication of it. We daily meet with the very counterpart of some characters in Gospel lands; men who will take the subject from your lips, and descant upon it with eloquence to those around them; but who evidently know little of its import, and nothing of its power. Their eloquence is exhausted upon minor topics, and when reminded of the great mysteries of the Gospel, the points of difference between Christianity and the ethics of Confucius, they shew by their silence that they are quite as ignorant as their audience.

August 20th.—We have been visited since our arrival by several of the princes, whose curiosity and covetousness prove rather troublesome. The most

interesting character among them makes himself well known to all visitors, and would, if divested of the fear of royal displeasure, and rightly guided in his fondness for foreign customs, become the greatest blessing to the nation. He is the younger son of the ex-queen; his elder brother, entitled by birthright to the throne, in place of the reigning monarch, has become a priest, by which he is saved the mortification of bowing down to one whom he is unwilling to regard as his superior. The title of our visitor is, "Lord of Heaven." His age is about thirty-three. He has acquired a smattering of English; and is one of the most intelligent, manly, and improvable characters in the kingdom. He is desirous of obtaining a correct knowledge of our language, and probably this is his principal object in visiting us. Our prayer and aim is, that he may be instructed in the principles of the Gospel, and brought to a knowledge of " the truth as it is in Jesus." We are animated in our exertions by the mere possibility that he may be preparing to exert an extensive influence in favour of Christianity—that, perhaps, he may be kept from the throne, only to fill it in future as " a nursing father " to the church.

This evening is the fourth in succession that we have been honoured by the visits of young men in the higher walks of life. One of them was a prince, to whom Mr. Tomlin had given an English Bible when at Siam before. He has a peculiarly amiable

countenance, and fascinating demeanour; but, like all his countrymen, is as inquisitive as a child in examining every foreign trifle that catches his eye. He took the last bound volume on our table, and left upon our minds an impressive concern for his everlasting welfare.

Two of the Prah Klang's sons, with their suite, spent last evening with us. The elder is an intelligent and engaging youth, who exerts a powerful influence for one of his age, and is probably destined to make a conspicuous figure on the political arena of Siam. From his inquiries about the book we had been distributing, whether it was written and printed by natives, and, if not, who it was that had taught foreigners the language, we thought we saw symptoms of alarm or suspicion, which were probably infused by the old man who sent him. We gave him an unbound volume of the book about which he inquired, assured that he could find nothing exceptionable in it, and hoping that he might be led to examine it with more attention and profit than to find out the when, the where, and the how, of its production.

August 22d.—An event occurred to-day, which we earnestly pray may be repeated, until the whole kingdom is converted to Christ. A priest, of very respectable appearance, sent a messenger before him, to inform us that he had read our book with approbation, and, being unable to comprehend some of its

doctrines, would be happy to receive from our lips a solution of his difficulties. He waited at a short distance from the house, until the messenger returned to him with a favourable answer. He remained a long time, and plied us with such questions as convinced us that he had thought deeply on the subject. The Saviour of sinners was the burden of his inquiries—who He was—what was the distinction between him and the Father—whether his love extended to men of all nations—how he expiated the sins ofthe guilty—and whether God the Father bore an equal affection tothe world.

He was particular in inquiring about the nature of sin, the process by which the heart could be sanctified, and the manner of Divine worship. Many points of minor importance were proposed, and a number of his own opinions submitted to the test of our faith. Such was the earnestness of the man, that when he thought his questions not perfectly understood, he would turn to a Chinese youth in his train, and beg him to put the inquiry in Chinese. It afforded an opportunity for preaching the Gospel with apparent advantage,and many most important ideas were suggested to his inquiring mind.

September 10th.—Three priests of distinction spent part ofthe evening with us. With the fears, probably, though evidently not with the object, of Nicodemus, they came " by night." They had been before, and had greatly interested us by their mild and friendly

demeanour. Of Jesus and his religion they always speak with approbation, though, we fear, not always with sincerity. It is delightful to think that His blessed name, and some knowledge of his character and offices, are becoming familiar to these deluded men. It is by no means uncommon for us to be saluted by the title of disciples of Jesus,—often with an encomium upon the gracious Being whom we serve. The folly and consequences of idol worship were plainly pointed out to-night, and the unpublished portion of Scripture, containing the sermon on the mount, given to one of them to read aloud.

That their own religion sits lightly upon many of them, is evident from numerous facts. Some of them do not hesitate to eat, and even to ask us for, articles strictly prohibited by their laws. Though not allowed to partake of any thing after the mid-day meal, two of our visitors had infringed the rules before, and were only waiting to-night for the assent of their superior.

The priests have hitherto constituted a large proportion of our visitors. Hundreds, perhaps thousands, have applied for books and medicines, and not a few of them have become very sociable, and frequently spend part of the day, or evening, with us. They express no aversion to the dissemination of a faith which they might know is both opposed to, and destructive of, their own. Many of them, there is every reason to beUeve, care nothing about their own

religion, and know as little about ours. Not expecting to remain in these monasteries beyond their term of pupilage, they appear to feel themselves quite as much at liberty to gratify their curiosity, as to sacrifice it to an object in which they have no permanent interest. Selected from all classes of society, and destined to fill all stations in public life—having abundant leisure to read, and seemingly desirous to learn the contents of our little volume—we should be callous indeed, if our hearts did not often melt in sorrow for their blindness, and prompt the most fervent intercessions on their behalf.

Our most frequent visitor was introduced to us by a note from Mr. Gutzlaff, in which he is recommended as " a friend of truth, thoroughly versed in the doctrines of Buddhism, humble and docile, a chaplain to his Majesty." He is far above the standard of his countrymen, and one of the finest models of unchristianized men we ever saw. He evinces nothing of the idle curiosity of his countrymen; but is fond of science, and particularly anxious to learn the habits, languages, and religions of other nations. He comes often for instruction, and proves himself an apt and assiduous scholar. There is something more than ordinarily engaging in his countenance and deportment; and the knowledge he has acquired of Christianity, and the apparent candour with which he speaks of the gracious Redeemer, render ten-fold more deplorable his remaining darkness and fears. At hi?

first visit we gave him the manuscript Life of Jesus, which he read; since then he has taken different parts of the unpublished Gospels for perusal.

September 19th.—We spent part of the afternoon and dined in company with one of the Cambojian princes. He was anxious to see the style and taste the dishes of a European dinner, and Mr. Silveira very obligingly gratified him. About twenty years ago his elder brother and himself fled from their own country, owing to some disturbances, and placed themselves under the protection of the king of Siam. Since then, the king of Cambodjia, their father, has died, and though the brother was the lawful heir to the throne, their patron has sternly refused them the liberty of returning home. A brother, younger than either of those in Siam, has obtained the crown.

This prince, though among the most intellectual in the kingdom, has still all the curiosity of the most ignorant. Much of his time, in the company of foreigners, is employed in making familiar and ludicrous remarks to his attendants. These generally spread themselves on the floor, according to an order which appears to exist among them, and as near his chair as possible. Whatever strikes the prince as peculiarly good or offensive, he hesitates not to pass to his prostrate train for examination and remark.

The two most important facts we have gathered today, are, that the population of Cambodjia is equal to more than half that of Siam, and that there are no

Romish priests to oppose the introduction of pure religion. As far as we have ascertained, a few catechists are all that the Roman Catholics have been able or willing to furnish to their proselytes in that country, although the priests from Cochin-China and Siam occasionally pay them a visit.

There is every reason to believe that a Protestant mission might be planted in Cambodjia. The best situation would probably be near one of the mouths of its famous river, or perhaps in the vicinity of some of the settlements of Malays, Chinese, or Japanese, who have emigrated to that country. An annual trading vessel visiting the place would be of double utility —rendering an acceptable service to the missionaries, and improving, by its traffic, the secular condition of the people. Here again we must look to the " ships of Tarshish " for those preparatory services, and that co-operation, by which we believe that the Saviour's reign on earth is to be hastened.

October 22d, 1831.—The present month is one of special interest to the Siamese. The priests are kept more employed at their solemnities now than at any other time, and the whole nation, including the king, shew more than a usual devotion to their idols. Offerings are made to the river, for its use and abuse during the year. A part of their ceremonies, if indeed they possess a religious character, consists in illuminations and fireworks.

Last night we took a boat, and went to the palace,

to witness an exhibition in which the monarch himself takes an active part. The current, which at this season runs usually at the rate of four or five miles an hour, delayed us some time on the way, and we availed ourselves of every course in which its strength could be avoided. Part of the way we passed among boats moored near the shore; part, between floating houses and the land; and part, through small creeks or canals, which run nearly parallel with the river. This afforded another opportunity of seeing the style in which multitudes are obliged, and apparently contented, to live. The contrast is striking, between the small and well-peopled huts of the common classes, and the spacious grounds and buildings of some of the princes. These last occupy the best situations on shore, and are generally grouped with temples; and the dwellings of priests who are supported at their expense.

We passed the Prah Kiang, sitting in one of the floating houses, and amusing himself with firing squibs in the water. The number and variety of small boats before the palace did not equal our expectations. As a mark of respect, we were all obliged to keep on the opposite side of the river, whence the person of the king could not be distinguished. We waited till near midnight, before a lamp was lighted at tbe palace. A discharge of fire-works was then heard, and two large vessels, on either side of the King's watering-house, were lighted up with lamps.

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Then a number of small boats were richly illuminated, and sent down the tide. After which, rockets, and a few inferior exhibitions of fire-works, were presented.

The full-orbed moon riding in silent majesty above our heads, and shedding a lovely radiance over the scene, repaid us richly for the beauties which her lustre had eclipsed.

November 8th.—For some days the King has been visiting the pagodas supported by himself, and furnishing the priests with such articles of necessity and luxury as his zeal and bounty prompt him to bestow. This work is considered highly meritorious, and is performed annually at this season. The temples built and supplied from the King's treasury are numerous, amounting to between twenty and thirty, and many days are usually expended in completing the round. The principal priest of each temple is arrayed on these occasions by the hand of his royal master—the priest, according to the humble profession of the monarch, being the superior.

To-day the procession passed our house. It consisted of about a hundred barges, many of them more elegant than any thing* of the kind I had ever beheld. The guard-boats—a splendid array—led the van. Some of them were so long and narrow, and so well manned, that they seemed almost to fly; though the slightest inclination, it was evident, would plunge their contents into the wave beneath them. Others, of more substantial material and

larger dimensions, carried pieces of ordnance on pivots, and were managed by soldiers dressed in a flaming uniform.

The King's galley followed, said to be at least one hundred and twenty feet in length, and propelled by eighty men. A curve at the bow and stem raises it some distance above the surface of the water, and adds much to the elegance of its structure. It is made of one tree, and many lives were sacrificed in transferring it from its native place hither. This, however, is no consideration with the Siamese. It is by no means uncommon for numbers to perish in conveying the kings, or men of authority, on expeditions of importance. Excessive toil, an exhausting climate, and want of relief—the boats being too narrow to carry more than one set of hands—soon produce fatal consequences to the unpitied boatmen.

His majesty's portly person had no other covering than a cloth about the loins : he was attended by a few of the women and children of his large family. The boats of the princes followed, many of them but little inferior to the king's, and all with horses' tails, the insignia of their rank, suspended from the bow. The procession was closed by the barges of persons of less importance, and the whole was probably more than a mile in extent. We were obliged, at the command of a fore-runner, to shut the door—a ceremony expected from every one before whose house such a sacred personage passes. The length of the

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array, the great diversity of boats, the unanimous shouts bursting from so many lips, the noise of those who beat time, with the uniform motions of the paddles, and the rapidity with which the pageant hastened by, rendered the scene as lively to the senses, as its object was sickening to the mind of the Christian beholder. How dreadful is the influence of the great deceiver over this nation, summoning thousands of the pride and power of the kingdom to one feat of idolatry !

December lst.—For about two months the Meinam has overflowed its banks, and laid the surrounding country under water. It is said not to have equalled its present height for the last thirty years. This morning we took a boat, and steered for the fields where vve had repeatedly walked, expecting to see one liquid expanse unbroken save by the trees and scattered houses. We were disappointed; for though we proceeded some distance, and might have gone as much further as we pleased, the luxuriant rice had so far overtopped the level of the water, that at a little distance the latter was not perceptible. The labourers were moving about in boats, cutting the paddy, and attending to other business. The country for an immense distance is nearly a dead level, and so general is the present flood, that it is said you can leave the channel of the river and make a straight course to Juthia, the ancient capital, about a hundred miles distant.

That there would be some obstruction from the tops of the paddy, appears very evident to us, unless the soil is more depressed, or less productive, above Bankok, than in its immediate vicinity. The houses built upon rafts have greatly the advantage at present. In many of the others the water is so deep that their occupants are obliged to erect platforms above the floor upon which to sit and sleep. It is a time of suffering to the poor, many of whom have made no provision for this exigence, and are obliged to throw themselves upon the charities of a heartless people.

December6th.—About a fortnight ago a Chinese boy appeared before our door, and, being friendless, poor, and ill, entreated us to take him in. His case excited our pity, and we could not refuse. His employment had been suspended on account of the overflowing of the waters, and no man would receive him. While in prosperity, there is no want of relatives and friends; but when an appeal is made to their pity, it is of little avail. The cruelty, of the Chinese especially, is quite unnatural. They have sometimes brought their sick, reduced to the last extremity of disease, and, after laying them before the door, endeavoured to make their escape unobserved, glad to get rid of the incumbrance, and careless of the consequences. The boy lingered till Sunday, when he was found dead on the steps leading to his door. He had

probably felt a sense of suffocation, and died in the attempt to get into the air.

There was something very affecting in his case. Of six of the dialects spoken in the empire, and employed more or less by those who are found in these parts, his was the only one of which neither our teachers nor ourselves knew anything. We had both been labouring, the very day of his death, to communicate some idea of spiritual things to his mind, but without effect. Oh how impressive the call that seems to sound from the clay, which its immortal tenant in deep ignorance has just left!

December 25th (Sabbath).—Besides the small band, consisting of only four or six, who usually worship with us, there were two strangers present this morning. They had called for medicines before, and from their willingness to listen to the doctrines of salvation, and a partial knowledge of these doctrines previously obtained, much interest was excited on their behalf. One of them mentioned, a few days ago, that he had known the God of heaven for a number of years, but had never seen the " sacred books,"—a very imperfect acquaintance doubtless. The other said that his neighbours came to his house to worship the true God with him; but here again we cannot but suspect a near approach to heathenism, both in their ideas of the Lord and in the manner of their worship.

They appear, however, like those who are " feeling

after the Lord," and we earnestly hope that He may be found of them. There is something so peculiar in their case that we are encouraged to believe that an Invisible Hand is leading them " out of darkness into marvellous light."

27th.—To-day we saw an instance of heathen cruelty. The skiff of a lad was upset a short distance from the shore. He clung to the boat, and begged the assistance of two men who were passing by. They passed within a few feet of him, and paid no attention to his request. He was carried about half a mile, with a strong current, and, though others approached very near, none would stop to rescue him. When I saw him last he was labouring with his feet and paddle to get his boat to shore. I asked the inhuman men the cause of their cruelty. Some made no reply. One answered, in a tone of excitement, " He did not call;" though he evidently knew not, if he even turned to see, whether the lad was not too much exhausted for the exertion. Though this instance is the first of the kind I have seen, it is by no means uncommon. Mr. Tomlin says they have sometimes been obliged to hire them to rescue their suffering fellow-men from imminent danger. A trifling sum will move them, when no appeal to their pity can. What a blessing is the Gospel, in its meliorating influences upon the character osman !

Another event, which evinces the patriotism, perhaps the cruelty, of a Brutus, has recently occurred.

The King was informed that his son, the heir apparent to the throne, was in the habit of smoking opium. He immediately commanded his property to be sold, and himself to be arrested and imprisoned for execution. The mother interceded in vain. The other princes, and the men in authority, exerted their influence in behalf of the youth, with no better effect. The second King, though very ill, finding that the prince was about to suffer a cruel death for a common crime, was conveyed to the palace, and succeeded in averting the threatened doom. The circumstance has produced considerable excitement, and may tend in a measure to prevent the prevalence of a ruinous vice.

December 29th.—To-day we have been cheered by some pleasing facts, which render it evident that the seed sown in this wilderness begins to appear. The two persons mentioned as the increase to the usual number of Sabbath worshippers, came again to-day. One of them had had his head cut by a stone thrown at him while these two and a friend were convened for reading the Scriptures and prayer. The house, they say, was assailed by a number of Siamese, who probably were offended at their departure from the heathenish customs of their neighbours. They were informed of the sufferings often endured by God's children for the same cause, and they manifested no disposition to flinch from their newly commenced duties.

In visiting a sick man, who is in a shocking state of disease, we found that he knew something of the Lord, and professed to worship Him alone. He was too weak to read himself, but a neighbour had come in, and read the Christian tract to him. This neighbour had been employed by us as a carpenter, and manifested much intelligence and interest in his inquiries about the Christian religion. Yesterday he was instructed, at his own request, in the nature of prayer— a subject upon which their previous notions render the nation absurdly ignorant.

My teacher, whose own heart is like the nether millstone, mentioned the case of a man who came to see him, after the business ofthe day, to have the sacred books explained. He said that the man had no idea how the Lord of heaven should be worshipped, and, when informed of our Sabbath services, asked whether he might attend.

Another striking case occurred in the dispensary to-day. While a lad was employed in reading part of a Siamese tract, another, of about eight or nine years of age, who sat near, repeated some of it before him. I asked him how he knew it: he replied, that his father and mother had taught him; that they read the Christian tract every day, and worshipped the Lord of heaven. That there is some truth in this, is evident from his own knowledge.

Thus the Lord shews us that our labours are not in vain, just at the time when my companion isleavU

ing the place, and my own health has become so much impaired as to unfit me in a great measure for exertion, and to render a change desirable, if not necessary. Oh that this, and every other heathen station, were occupied by numbers, that, when some are compelled to retire, others might remain to carry on the work !

January 2d, 1832.—The priest who was at first introduced to us by letter, and who has called repeatedly since, came this evening with another, who had also visited us previously. They had heard, before entering the house, that we were both going, and appeared more than usually affectionate. We spent all the evening in endeavouring to persuade them to " turn from idols to the only living and true God." They listened with attention; asked many questions—one of which was, whether God disallowed of idol worship— and appeared more solemn than we had ever seen them before. The superior has a mind of ready and comprehensive powers. He has nearly copied out two of the Gospels, and generally understands what he reads. He spoke of the fig-tree which Jesus cursed, and we endeavoured to enforce its application upon himself. We have reason to believe that he is convinced of the folly of idolatry, and impressed in some degree with the reasonableness, if not the necessity, ofthe Christian religion. But his rank is high, and the consequences of changing his faith, which his

grasping mind no doubt fully apprehends, will

probably produce a struggle of soul, before he is made to submit. His plea for not being a Christian is ignorance. He says he knows but little yet. May "the fear of God, which is the beginning of wisdom," embolden him to profess Christ before his perishing countrymen.

January.—There is something in the beauty of the heavens at this season of the year, which makes up for the destitution of every earthly charm, and exceeds any thing I ever noticed in other climates. For many weeks there has scarcely fallen a drop of rain. The atmosphere during the day is so clear, that the eye wanders through the boundless field of vision with a most animating gaze. Nothing can exceed the glories ofthe morning and evening twilight. The burnished heavens—the broad rays of the hidden sun, shooting up the wide arch of the firmament— often succeeded by transverse streaks of the most delicate and varying colours, and these again yielding to a thousand softer and still softer tinges—hold our eyes and hearts, at the close of each day, in glowing admiration, until the stars have one by one unveiled their glories, and all the celestial worlds beam forth through the vaulted azure with the brightest radiance. Between the rains and the commencement of the hot weather—a period of about three months—the climate is delightfully temperate. The summer commences very early, and the heat is often intense before the rainy season begins.

January 5th.—As we passed up the river this morning, the gilded temples and spires of idolatry gleamed in the first rays of the rising sun, and shed a lustre on the scene around them. Crowds of priests were passing to and fro; while women, with large vessels of boiled rice, and other provisions, were sitting before the doors of the floating houses, or in their boats, measuring to each his allowance. This finished, they put both hands to their forehead—by which gesture they worship their idols—while the priest does not vouchsafe any recognition of their reverence. We called upon a man in office, and were informed that the King is preparing to consecrate eight new and newly repaired temples. On this occasion he throws away a vast sum of money in support of his royal dignity. A fixed estimate is placed upon his person, his palace, some of his wives, his sons, his plate, and other articles. Each distinct sum is written on a scrap of paper, and put within a lemon. Some of them amount to one thousand dollars a piece. His Majesty ascends an elevated place, and scatters these lemons among the assembled crowd; and those who get them receive their respective sums upon presenting the paper. Thus, like the afflicted at the pool of Bethesda, the most needy are thrust aside, while the more vigorous and less miserable come forward and divide the spoil.

We passed a funeral procession. The body was placed in a coffin shaded by a large canopy. From

the coffin a piece of white cloth was passed over the shoulder of a lad dressed to represent an angel, and fastened to the garment of a priest sitting near the bow of the boat. By this means they say the priest conducts the deceased to happiness. The body is then taken to a temple, and burned, according to the custom of the country.

Before returning, we called at two of the most spacious and magnificent pagodas in the city. The superiority of one of them consists in the situation and arrangement of its buildings; of the other, in their multiplicity and magnificence. In entering the outer court of the latter, our attention was first arrested by large images, more like horses than any other animals, and occupying the place of warders. All the gates are guarded by these, and another set of still stranger figures, intended to represent the body ofa man with a face of mixed features—a combination of man, beast, and bird—all distorted, and giving the countenance a hideous expression. Within this outer court are a large temple and oratory, where the priests deliver their discourses; two or three high towers; and an extensive row of open buildings. Having passed through the court, we entered a second gate, and found a more spacious area, surrounded by wall and corridors, and embellished with spires of still larger dimensions.

In the centre there is a stupendous mass of irregular buildings, having temples on four sides

facing the area, opposite each other, and connected by smaller ranges. We entered one of the large temples, desirous, if possible, of passing through and examining the interior. A number of priests were stretched upon their beds, sleeping; others were whiling away the time at trifling employments, while before them and a large idol—objects of nearly equal reverence—women were worshipping. Again our irreverence was the subject of inquiry, and again we pointed to Him who had denounced such abominations, and who alone is to be worshipped. Some were silent and sullen, and refused to open the inner door. One, who had perhaps received a ray of true light, helped ns in explaining our message. After nearly compassing the buildings, which proved no inconsiderable walk, we found an open door, and entered. The whole outer range, round which we had thus passed, with another of nearly equal extent a few feet within, was completely filled with rows of gilded images, of different sizes, and in different altitudes. The number of idols was variously stated by the priests. Our own calculation made the aggregate between six and seven hundred, though we could not have seen them all, and none of the natives would admit that there were less than a thousand. The largest image was upwards of thirty-five feet high. Enclosed by these ranges of buildings we found another court, containing a number of tasteful ornaments, of a pyramidal

form, and with a splendid temple in the centre. Had "Holiness to the Lord," been inscribed here, this inner temple, as guarded as the " sanctum sanctorum," would have appeared more beautiful than any thing ofthe kind we had ever seen.

While our eyes were employed in examining these objects of admiration and horror, our tongues were busy in argument with the priests and others who followed us. The longest discussion took place in presence of the largest idol, with two young men, who were more zealous for the honour of their gods than any we had before met. One of them insisted that the image could speak; for, pointing to a large tablet before him, he said, " All this was dictated by him." The other, retorting our exposure of their folly, scornfully represented the cross with his fingers; believing that all foreigners were Roman Catholic idolaters, and plainly shewing that Papal abominations had proved an offence even to these ignorant heathen. We were assisted in correcting this mistake —alas ! too common among the ignorant!—by an intelligent-looking man of middle age, who had evidently received and been impressed by some correct knowledge of Christianity—probably from the books —and who aided us in our arguments with much apparent interest.

In some of their temples there is a great display of paintings, and the subjects brought together shew the extreme ignorance and depravity of the nation.

The walls of one of them which I visited, were completely covered with representations of heaven, earth, hell, and one ofthe stars of which their books speak. There were angels, men, and monkeys— foreigners, or caricatures of white men, and dignified natives—temples and brothels—scenes of gaiety and sadness, of peace and war, by land and sea—with almost every sketch which could be framed from their sacred books, or conceived by their versatile limners. Such another chamber of imagery I never beheld. The prince, my informant, remarked, that the object of these paintings was to instruct the illiterate through the medium of their senses. How far he is indebted to some of his friends for this truly Papal apology, I know not; but that he is familiar with many of the notions of the Romish church is quite evident. One day he pointed to a tower attached to a temple, and inquired if I knew what was deposited there. I told him that I had heard that some of them contained money. He replied, " Not money, but the bones of God." I asked him how that was possible, for God has no body, and a Spirit has no bones. He answered, "The Roman Catholics speak of the bones of God/' I told him that the Roman Catholics in these countries were very ignorant; but not quite so ignorant as to speak of preserving the bones of God—they must have meant the bones of good men. " Oh yes," said he; "I mean the same thing; these are the bones of good men." I am not certain

but that my apology was unwarranted, for their saints hold the same place, and receive the same honours, as the gods ofthe heathen.

The journal of our first visit to Siam closes here. The greater part of the occurrences recorded at the time have been omitted : enough has been extracted to present, to those who have not read the journal, some glimpses of Siam and her population, as well as some idea of the means employed to raise them in the scale of human and responsible beings. The most important inquiry remains tobe answered—viz. What has been the result of these exertions and favourable appearances? how many "have turned to God from idols, to serve the living and true God, and to wait for His Son from heaven ? " We answer : We know not that this has been the case with any—the time has been too short to form an opinion. A heathen's mind cannot be enlightened in a day, neither is it reasonable to suppose that his heart will be renovated until his judgment is informed. The means which ordinarily lead to this result have not been employed. We have done little more than scatter the good seed, and that upon ground loaded with noxious weeds, without having had time to witness its springing up, still less to cherish it into lively strength.

And here it may not be out of place to caution the reader against those favourable, though false,

conelusions, which are too frequently deduced from missionary journals. The difficulty of writing so as to inform the Christian world of actual occurrences, and yet not to sacrifice a faithful report to the dreaded evils of misinterpretation, must be felt by every missionary. The song of the ploughman and the sower, especially when he expresses the joyous expectation of the harvest, is confounded with the shouts of the reaper; and then, when the mistake is discovered, the labourer, and not the listener, is blamed. We do not say that no misconceptions have been transferred from the mind of the sanguine reporter to his reader; but, in the great majority of cases where mistakes exist, we believe them to originate with the latter. For instance, when we speak of the avidity with which the heathen receive Christian books, the best motive is charitably assigned, when they may have been artfully concealing the very worst. When their conversation is detailed, they receive credit for a certain amount of knowledge, which among Christians is connected with the sentiments they express, but which their future lives prove they do not possess. They are believed sincere, when they neither feel what they say nor know that the truths they profess should influence the heart. Their own views and notions of every thing sacred are so opposite to ours, that, without much experience, and severe scrutiny, we cannot determine the standard by which to try them;

and even with this intimate acquaintance with their modes of thought, there is constant danger of being deceived, through the hypocrisy of some and the self-ignorance of others.

In our excursions abroad, and in their visits to us, we have met with numbers who evinced a superficial knowledge of the contents of the book we had distributed. A few seemed to manifest some impression of the truth upon their hearts. We have had pleasing evidence that the spirit of inquiry was abroad; but there were no grounds of certainty for concluding that any had been " renewed in the spirit of their minds."

CHAPTER XI.

PASSAGE TO SINGAPORE AND MALACCA.

January 14, 1832.—Soon after midnight, on Friday last, we left Bankok, and proceeded in a barge to Paknam, where the brig Sebastian was lying. Capt. {empty}D. L. Shawhad insisted upon our taking a passage with him, for which he refused all compensation. Messrs. Hunter and M'Donald, by whom the ship was chartered, the only Europeans in the place, were among our fellow-passengers. We reached the brig early on Saturday morning, and immediately weighed anchor. In passing over the bar at the mouth of the Meinam, the sounding line gave just as much water as the vessel drew; yet nothing occurred to impede our progress, and in a few hours we were ploughing our way down the Gulf of Siam. With a leading wind almost the whole of the passage, and without obstacle, apparent danger, or peculiarity of any kind, we reached Singapore yesterday (Friday) morning. I took up my abode with Mr. Thomsen, and Mr. Tomlin proceeded to Malacca, where Mrs. T. is residing.

Singapore is an important missionary station. It

contains a population of about twenty-one thousand souls, of whom upwards of eight thousand are Chinese, and seven thousand Malays. But its greatest value consists in its relative advantages. There is no other mart of commerce so much frequented by native vessels from the different kingdoms and islands of South-Eastern Asia. China, Cochin-China, Cambodjia, Siam, the Malayan Peninsula, on the continent; and Sumatra, Java, Borneo, Celebes, Bali, Manilla, besides many other islands farther East, and numerous other places of less importance, in all the neighbouring settlements of the Straits; send forth their yearly fleets to this free port, and return to their respective places loaded with the comforts, the luxuries, the drugs, and the dregs of civilized nations. Many of these proas are from places which have never been frequented by Europeans, and where there might be much hazard in venturing.

How important is it that this fountain of commerce should be supplied with " the water of life," and made to send forth its rich streams into the different and distant tracts of heathenism with which it communicates !

But, hke the other stations beyond the Ganges, Singapore has received very little attention from Christian Societies at home. Mr. Thomsen is the only missionary at present in the place. Being laboriously engaged in the work of translation and printing—the primary and most indispensable

business of a missionary—and enervated, almost exhausted, by the ravages ofa protracted illness—he has but little time and strength to attend to the external duties of the station. There is not at present on the island a missionary to the Chinese. Singapore demands the labours of at least four men. The Chinese alone would tax the energies of one missionary; two should be constantly engaged in supplying the different native vessels with Christian books, and in visiting the numerous native villages on the surrounding islands; and one would find abundant occupation in his study, and at the press. Availing themselves of the influence of some of the merchants, and of pecuniary pledges, by which the late Mr. Dalton was secured, missionaries might make excursions to some of the most populous and benighted islands in the Archipelago. The usefulness of such men would be proportioned to their faith and enterprising spirit.

Singapore is the great factory of Malayan publications, and the depot of Christian books, in the common languages of the Straits and neighbouring islands. Mr. Thomsen has nearly completed an improved version of the Malayan New Testament, which will soon be ready to take the place of the old edition, prepared by the early Dutch chaplains. Considering the poverty of the language, and the many disadvantages under which the translation was made, the old version is a work of much merit; still

it contains words and phrases unintelligible to tho reader who understands neither the Arabic vocabulary nor the Bible idiom. Besides this important work, which is now partially printed, a number of others have issued from the same press, and been extensively circulated. There are at present three Chinese schools here, under the superintendence of Miss Martyn. The little comparative stress laid upon the mere acquisition ofthe Chinese characters, as well as the pains taken to illustrate the ideas they convey in the mother-tongue of the children *, is highly commendable, and worthy of universal imitation. A desire of acquiring the language is their only inducement to attend; but, as the books employed are all adapted to convey a far more important knowledge, the great object of the teachers may be readily gained without interfering with that of the parents and children.

There were formerly two or three Malay schools, under the superintendence of Mrs. Thomsen; but a want of health sufficient to contend with the embarrassments which indifference, indolence, and Mahommedanism combined to produce, have obliged her to discontinue her labours for the present.

The good which might be effected in Singapore by education, is incalculable. It requires, it is true, much zeal, self-denial, and perseverance in the

• The mothers are Malays, (he fathers Chinese.

teachers; but if there were those who gave their sole attention to the schools, the obstacles which now exist would gradually yield, until the task became comparatively easy. This sphere is peculiarly well adapted for ladies. A number of girls' and infantschools might be established with great advantage to children, parents, and society at large.

The European population of Singapore are greatly favoured in the faithful preaching of one who has their eternal welfare at heart, and whose prayers, counsels, purse, heart, and hands, are devoted to every cause that glorifies his Lord*.

January 29th.—We determined to spend part of yesterday among the Chinese, Malays, and others in the town. The employment was very animating. We soon separated—Mr. Thomsen took the Malays and Kalings, and I the Chinese. Wherever we stopped, numbers gathered round us, listened to our remarks, and received our books with the utmost readiness. They even came to the door of the carriage to solicit tracts, when they were all disposed of, and we were about returning home

February 26th.—This morning vve took a number of books, in three of the languages most current in the Straits, and visited the southern and western shores of Singapore island. We passed on the way a number of boats covered with small mats, and

• The Rev. R. Burn, since deceased.

inhabited by a race of people who prefer these confined prisons to a residence on land. As their mode of life is the same as that of those who dwell on the waters in China, and tradition says that the latter are emigrants from some external country, it is possible that they and the Orang Laut, as these are called, may have had a common origin. They live almost as irrationally and slothfully as the indolent tribes of beasts around them : every movement seems dictated by the necessities of the day.

We found a very thinly scattered population on shore, scarcely any of whom were capable of reading. They had lately caught two or three tigers, ofa huge size and terrific appearance. Their trap is a large hole, which they fill with water, and then cover it over with brush. A dog is fastened to the centre of a narrow board, which passes over the pit, and is made of such frail materials, that when the ravenous animal leaps upon his prey, there is nothing to support him, and he sinks into the water beneath. In some places the country had been cleared and entirely deserted. After forming a settlement, by removing all the thick underwood and planting fruittrees, isa sudden death, or something a little uncommon, occurs, they imagine that the place is infested by a malicious spirit, and immediately leave it. We found a few Chinese scattered about, where there were any means of making money, and to them, and to all who could read, we gave books.

M

March 6th (Tuesday).—I left Singapore for Malacca on Saturday, in one of the small vessels which ply between the two places. I was the only foreigner among a crew and cargo of Chinese and natives of the country. The place assigned for European passengers was so low, and so crammed with goods, that I was obliged to creep into it; and then the only choice of posture was between lying and sitting. There was, however, a free current of air, which is far more important in these hot regions than all other external comforts. Had the breeze with which we started continued, twenty-four hours would have completed our passage, but as we were becalmed through the greater part of the day, we did not arrive until Monday morning. The number of Chinese on board afforded free exercise for my stammering tongue, and rendered the voyage a season of instruction, at least to a few of them.

The town of Malacca has a rural aspect from the offing. It stands on a plain, with numerous trees interspersed among the houses, though without any striking feature. The most commanding object in the vicinity, is the ruins of a large Romish church, founded by Francis Xavier, which occupies the principal elevation near the shore. There is a small light-house and telegraphic apparatus upon the same site. The interior of the country is diversified with a few hills, and a range of distant mountains bounds the prospect.

The place is rendered sacred by the early death of two most useful missionaries. Milne and Collie are names which will ever be remembered among the most distinguished benefactors of China. Though their career was brief, their labours were arduous, and the works they have written and translated into the Chinese language are among the means by which the regeneration of that empire may be effected. Mr. Hughes is now the only missionary at the station. Mr. Tomlin returned with me from Siam, to take the superintendence of the college; Mr. Kidd, the principal, having been obliged to return to Europe for the benefit of his health.

March 9th.—Malacca boasts a healthful climate, interesting scenery, and pleasant roads. The principal drive for exercise, is round a large Chinese cemetery, which stretches over an irregular surface of ground, and encloses two or three miles within its limits. Some of the tombs are extensive and ornamental. There are one or two retreats a few miles from the town, along the sea shore, to which the residents resort for relaxation from duty, and bodily recreation.

This evening I attended a religious meeting in one of the Chinese schools. The service was conducted as in similar meetings in Christian lands, and consisted of prayer, singing, reading, and exhortation. More than a dozen Chinamen were present, who seemed attentive. The place, object, worshippers,

m 2

and especially the season, a week-day evening, imparted a peculiar interest to the occasion. Oh how animating is the prospect that the Lord shall be worshipped in heathen as in Christian lands! still more delightful, that " His will shall be done in earth, as it is in heaven."

March 12th.—The Anglo-Chinese college in this place was instituted for the purpose of qualifying young men to become teachers to their countrymen, with the earnest hope that the " God of all grace " would sanctify their talents to himself. Among the few who have fully answered the expectations of the missionaries, is Leang-Afa, who received his early and lasting impressions while engaged as a printer to this institution. If native teachers are to become the chief instruments in the conversion of the nations, schools of this kind are probably the means by which they are to be trained for their office. For some years past, the number of young Chinese in the college has averaged between twenty-five and thirty. The aim of the teachers is to give them instruction in Christian books, translated into their own language— also to teach them English, and improve them in their own literature. All the Chinese in any capacity connected with the institution, are called together every morning at seven o'clock, for reading the Scriptures, prayer, and singing. Those who do not understand Chinese, are assembled for the same purpose by the Malay missionary, an hour later. The

remainder of the time is devoted to their several employments, and the day is concluded as it was commenced.

On the Sabbath, there is preaching in the chapel belonging to the Society, by both the missionaries, in the languages of their respective departments. Two or three stated services are also held in the week, generally in the school-rooms, where a small number assemble, and are conducted like the one described above.

Attached to the college is a printing establishment, where a large proportion of the Christian books distributed at the different Chinese stations is prepared. There are also fonts of English and Arabic type, the latter for the Malayan language. Malacca is highly and justly celebrated for the number of its native schools. Children of Chinese, Malay, Portuguese, and Kaling parents, are all taught, in their respective languages, the truths of Christianity.

There are, at present, about one hundred and fifty, or two hundred, Chinese boys, belonging to the schools superintended by the principal of the college; one hundred Chinese girls, under the instruction of Miss Wallace; between two hundred and fifty and three hundred Malay children, under the care of Mr. Hughes, the Malay missionary; and about two hundred more, principally Tamul and Portuguese, in charge of the ladies belonging to the Resident's household, and one or two others of a kindred spirit,

who live in the place. These schools, as the reader may infer, afford a fine sphere for female usefulness. They have been blessed with the influence and efficient labours of active ladies, and might be made still more extensively beneficial if they received the patronage from abroad which they require*. Alas that this should be the chief complaint in every place where efforts are made for the conversion ofthe heathen ! In every plan of Christian benevolence, the missionaries and teachers find a liberal patron, an efficient coadjutor, and a most congenial friend, in {empty}S. Garling, Esq., Resident ofthe station.

On Tuesday evening, March 27th, I left Malacca in a native brig, bound for Singapore, with such a

• Since the above was written, some of the girls' schools have been suspended for want of funds, and two or three ladies, who took an active part in teaching, have been removed. It is highly important that female education in Malacca, and in all the East, should be taken up by ladies at home, and supported with the zeal and perseverance which the object demands.—Note by the Author.

The Society for the promotion of Female Education in China, India, and the East, was formed in July 1834, to meet these necessities. A grant of £50 has already been transmitted to the Malacca schools; and the Committee have made choice of a lady in all respects well fitted for the work, who is now (March 1835) on the point of proceeding thither to undertake their superintendence; Miss Wallace, of whom mention is made above, having been removed to Siam to begin the work of education there. The Committee hope shortly to send an agent to Singapore; and they believe that, in many ofthe places mentioned in this work, schools might be established, with every prospect of success, were a sufficient amount of funds placed at their disposal to enable them thus to extend their efforts. Further particulars respecting the object and proceedings of this Society will be found in their statements, published by Edward Suter, 19 Cheapside.—Editor.

number of fellow-passengers, principally Chinese, as at night filled the berths, covered the floor of the poop-cabin, occupied nearly all the space below decks, and rendered it difficult to walk without treading upon some of them. Owing to calms, opposing winds, and numerous obstructions on the uncoppered bottom of the vessel, we did not arrive until Monday morning, April 2d.

When confined for a number of days with the same persons, it is difficult, without great command oftheir language, to obey the call of duty and compassion towards them. The subject of Christianity, after being introduced a few times, and enlarged upon sufficiently to teach them how they can be saved, becomes stale, and requires a variety of phraseology to place it in different lights, and render it at all interesting. One expedient has been adopted, I believe with profit. When assembled in groups for conversation, of which they are very fond, I have accosted them; offered the most respectable of their number a Christian book, to read, and explain for the edification of the rest; and then myself joined the company upon the floor, as an auditor and occasional prompter. At these seasons I have felt the deepest interest in interceding in their behalf, and could not but hope that the plan would be blest.

After returning to Singapore, the writer awaited the first opportunity of proceeding to Siam. During

this interval he frequently assisted Mr. Thomsen in the distribution of books, both on shore and in the harbour. The season at which the Chinese visit the tombs afforded an opportunity for much exertion, both in teaching them orally and in dispersing books. All the junks from China, and others from Siam manned with Chinese sailors, were supplied.

April 18th.—I embarked last evening in a Chinese junk for Siam. An effort was made to procure a passage immediately on my arrival from Malacca, but the captains of the junks refused to take me, for fear of incurring the displeasure of the Siamese king. I am indebted for this opportunity to the kindness of W. Scott, Esq., the custom-house officer, who has great influence with the Chinese owing to his situation.

The junk is about three hundred tons burden. In construction she is rather superior to the majority of Chinese vessels, presenting a less stem-like, semilunar, bow to the water, and consequently being swifter and safer. She carries upwards of forty men, and has one or two passengers besides myself. Mine is the only white face and English tongue on board. It will probably surprise a Western sailor to learn that the men receive only about fifteen dollars a voyage, which consumes generally from four tonine months; and it will be no less amusing to a Western traveller to hear that a native passenger pays but four dollars

from Singapore to Siam—that is to -say, for one certainly, and sometimes for two, months' board and lodging.

The place assigned to me is a box on the quarterdeck, resembling an oven, and so straitened in its dimensions that it will hold very little more than myself: nor can I sit upright except upon a low trunk. With the exception of the Captain, who probably wishes to frighten me out of a little more money, or into a little less comfort than was stipulated, the crew, though rough, are civil and obliging.

19th.—I have succeeded in changing my apartment for one next it, less attractive in external appearance, but rather broader and cooler. The Captain has relaxed the muscles of his face, and we are all now on the best possible terms. It is a great source of amusement to them to see me walk the deck for exercise. Bodily exertion of any kind appears to the minds of all these natives to be incompatible with comfort. They have an idea that this exercise must be a religious performance; and, when I come out, they frequently mention the number of steps and turns which the duty demands. I attempt to shew them, by disappointing all their conjectures, that this is the suggestion of their own fancies. It requires much presence of mind, in taking recreation, not to interfere with some of their strange notions. They have an idea that walking with the hands behind the back is an ill omen, and retards the progress

M 5

of the vessel. b Other whims, too numerous and absurd to mention, prove rather annoying, where there is little disposition to be unbending in trifles, and none to indulge them in their superstitions. I find it an excellent school for improvement in that dialect of the language which is of most service in Siam.

21st.—All things go on well but the junk, and she reminds one of a well-saturated log of wood, in her grievous, groaning movements. For the last fortyeight hours it is doubtful whether we have made more than half that number of miles. When the wind is a-beam, so great is the lee-way that there is but little advantage in weighing the large wooden anchor. If from any cause they are obliged to lower the main-sail, it is painful to witness the exertion of muscles and lungs required to hoist the cumbrous mat * to its place : two windlasses—one of which extends across the junk, and the other from the mainmast to the side—are put in requisition, in this laborious task. The Chinese seem determined to lay their muscles under the least possible obligation to mechanical agency. When they wish to pump the ship, a pole is placed across, at some height above the - hatch-way, to which a pulley is suspended. At one end of the rope passing through the pulley, a large bucket is let down, and drawn up by a number of men at the other end, while one or two are stationed

• The sails of native vessels are generally made of mats.

below to fill it. The work goes on most cheerfully, though with little shew of subordination—the sailors having generally as much to say as the officers, and the officers as much to do as the sailors.

23d.—Last night the riot and revel of idolatry commenced. From the parade of gongs, gilt paper, and other ominous articles with which I was familiar, I was apprised of their intentions, and my spirit was stirred within me. I raised my voice; endeavoured to convince them of their error, ridiculed their folly, warned them of their guilt, tried every expedient; but all in vain. The gongs and drums struck up, the paper was lighted and cast into the sea, and the vain offering quickly and irreverently finished. They told me that the morrow was the birth-day of their goddess Ma-cho-po.

This morning, at dawn of day, the same service was performed, and again at eight o'clock, with many additional offerings of flesh, fish, and cake. Again I summoned my tongue to the contest; but with no better success than before. Some laughed; others were angry. The chief officer, to whose reason an appeal was made, and whose previous conduct had convinced me that he was a man of sense, took my interference in high dudgeon. My boy, feeling apprehensive of the consequences of denouncing their popular deity with such forwardness, came and begged me to desist. I certainly had no intention of irritating them needlessly, nor any fear of

attempting what a sense of duty prompted. What grieved me peculiarly, was the office of a quiet, interesting man, somewhat advanced in life, who had read the Christian books in my cabin, and who appeared to comprehend many of their truths. Instead of manifesting the least regard for what he had been taught, he stood before the image, kneeled a number of times, and bowed his hoary head almost to the deck. There was but one retreat from this affecting scene, and were it not for this refuge, the missionary's heart would often sink in utter despondency beneath the pressure of his trials. 'Oh how refreshing is it, at such seasons, to pour out the soul in prayer to Him who not only has the power, but has announced His determination to destroy idolatry, and restore His ignorant, rebellious creatures to Himself.

The conversation on the subject of idolatry commenced publicly this morning, and resumed at different times throughout the day, will, Isincerely hope, lead them to reflect upon the stupidity, as well as the crime, of worshipping those whom they acknowledge to have been but men, and whose dumb images only they thus reverence. One favourite plea with them is, that different countries have different customs— in other words, that fashion is law, and her dictates absolute. Another reason, which, if true, would be more rational, is, that those whom they worship, though they were mortals like themselves, have been transformed into gods as the reward of their merit.

One thing, already mentioned, which gives peculiar zest to a Chinaman's sacrifice, is the feast which follows. A good-sized porker, preserved many months for the occasion, was slaughtered this morning, and, after the formal presentation of part of it to the image, applied to the purpose for which it was really intended. They had been living before upon rice, salt fish, and vegetables, and were prepared to welcome and enjoy this temporary change of diet. Of all their ordinary meats, pork is the favourite among the Chinese.

May 2d.—Contrary to expectation, we were not out of sight of land more than twenty-four hours. Five days have nearly passed since we opened the rugged scenery of Tringano, and though we have been proceeding with all sails set, and a considerable breeze during part of the time, we have scarcely succeeded in leaving it out of sight. Tringano appears to be a projection from the peninsula of Malacca, peculiarly varied in its general aspect, and notable for its piracies. It is said that the Rajah is the head of the banditti. I was by no means sorry to learn that our vessel is too large to invite an attack from these desperate marauders. About three years ago, my friend and fellow-missionary, Mr. Medhurst, visited this place in a small boat, and encountered the most frightful dangers from pirates on the way.

This afternoon another feat of idolatry was

performed. It was intended as an act of homage to the presiding deity of a hill, opposite to which we are sailing. Lamps were lighted, paper burned, cakes and fruit spread on a mat, the gongs rung, and the aged man, spoken of before, bowed his head a number of times nearly to the deck. My spirits have seldom sunk so low. After what has been said, which their reason assents to, the noise sounded to me like the knell of the second death.

9th.—Last night we encountered a severe squall. The lightning, thunder, wind, and rain, gave to the scene a sublimity, which the hurried confusion and want of skill evident among the boatmen would have converted into terror to my mind, had it not been for "my hiding-place and my shield." When the squall came on, the mate called for gold paper, and, holding it up in the face of the storm, bowed, and threw it into the deep. It would probably have puzzled his own imagination to decide, what particular deity he was thus appeasing.

Last year it is said that thirty or forty vessels were lost, on their return from different places. My teacher says that seventeen which sailed from Siam, and four out of six from Singapore, bound for China, never arrived. Several hundreds of their own coasting vessels are reported to have met with a similar destiny.

For two days we have been sailing in the vicinity of most interesting upland scenery. It varies, from

the small mound, through almost every gradation of height and peculiarity of formation, to the lofty mountain, at whose feet this morning's mists were spread in delicate fleeces, and whose majestic head overlooks the floating clouds which love to linger around it. The castellated form of some ofthe peaks, rising to a considerable perpendicular elevation, is a peculiar feature.

On the coasts of the Malayan peninsula there are a number of native states, in which, according to the belief of those who have visited them, missionaries might reside and labour. Some of these are subject to the king of Siam, and the rest are under the Government of native Rajahs. From the most authentic information that could be obtained, both from the natives themselves and the Malays in their vicinity, it appears that there are four tribes of aborigines living in the Malayan peninsula, and known by their original names, namely, Samang, Sakei, Udei, and Rayat. In stature and features they are all like the Malays.

The Samang tribe live in the depths of the forest, and never come down to the villages. They neither sow nor plant, but subsist upon the fruits of the forest and the spoils of the chase. Their sole employment is hunting. Whatever they meet they kill with the sumpit, and eat all, whether bird, beast, or reptile. Their language is not understood by any but themselves. They lisp their words, the sound of

which is very indistinct, more like the noise of birds than the voices of men. They have neither king nor chief, but there is one, whom they style Put/ung, to whom they refer all their requests and complaints, invariably abiding by his decision. They have no religion, no priests, and no ideas whatever of a Supreme Being, the creation of the world, the soul of man, sin, heaven, hell, angels, or a day of judgment. The puy ung instructs them in matters relating to ghosts, evil spirits, and sorcery, by the belief of which they are all influenced. They never quarrel nor go to war with another tribe. When one of the Samang tribe dies, the head only is buried; the body is eaten by the people, who collect in large numbers for that

purpose.

The other aborigines were originally one tribe only, known in Malacca by the name Jakon; from them sprang the Sakei, Udei, and Rayat. These tribes are much alike, and speak the same language, though they keep distinct. These three cultivate the ground, trade in the neighbouring villages, and bury their dead. The bark of trees furnishes them with clothing, the roots and leaves with medicine, and the branches and foliage with shelter for the night. They are entirely ignorant of their own history, neither knowing whence, nor how, nor when, they came to the country *.

• These particulars are extracted from a small sheet published in the Straits of Malacca some time ago.

10th.—To-day there was a new feast of idolatry, new at least to me. A raft of bamboos was prepared, which they almost filled with gold and silver paper. This they let down into the sea, and then fired the paper, amidst the noise of the gong, the solemn antics ofthe old man, and the offering ofa variety of eatables, some of which, with less than their usual wisdom, were thrown into the water.

14th.—Last night we cast anchor outside the bar, at the mouth of the Meinam; and now we are waiting for dispatches from the owner at Bankok. Notwithstanding the rigid laws of the kingdom against the importation of opium, and the rank and office of the person to whom the junk belongs, we have a quantity on board, which will no doubt detain us, until safely smuggled on shore. The weather is very oppressive. Scarcely a breath of air finds its way into my apartment, while the sun beats upon it with his fiercest rays. We find ourselves greatly favoured, notwithstanding the apparent dulness of our daily progress. Two junks came to anchor shortly after we arrived, one of which sailed a month, and the other half a month, before us. I had been disappointed—providentially and happily, as I now find it to be—of a passage in the latter.

Thus ends the voyage. I have seldom, if ever, been so much impressed with the degradation of the heathen, as during the month spent on board this

junk. How striking, how total, the change which the Gospel of Jesus makes in a rational mind! In fact, no mind is rational, until restored to its original harmony by the influence of the Gospel. The condition ofthe heathen is more deplorable than that of many maniacs in Christian lands, for these may have lucid intervals; they are sunk below the brutes, for their apprehension of things is correct as far as it goes; they are beneath the very stock and stone they worship, for these cannot mistake their worshippers for dead men—while their worshippers madly confound them with the living. It is better to have no ideas on any subject, than wrong impressions of every important truth. Let those who say there are no advantages in the Christian religion, come forth and look upon these heathen. Civilization—if that which has not a true religion for its basis merits the name—has been exerting its influence for centuries among the nation to which this crew belongs. And yet what do they know ? All that they behold in creation—all that they witness in providence—all that their reason can suggest—does not lead them, neither did it lead their sages, to the obvious conclusion that there is one, and but one, Supreme Being. With respect to the object of the present life, the realities of the future, and every thing relating to their eternal interests, no phrensied imagination could be wilder. And this ignorance extends not only to

the most important of all truths, but also to the most simple subjects of worldly science. Of history, geography, astronomy, philosophy, medicine, all of which they profess to understand, they know but very little; and the influence of that little is nullified by the mass of error with which it is mixed up. I sincerely hope that the mode and frequency of social worship, and the observance of the Sabbath which they have witnessed, with the books distributed, and our frequent conversations, may be blessed to the eternal welfare of some of these ignorant but amiable men. Four of us have daily crowded into my little den, and regularly maintained a morning and evening service. It has been a source of frequent regret that there was no place on board sufficiently spacious to accommodate more, except where the noise and bustle were so great as to prevent the performance of religious worship.

16th.—Still at anchor. A number of Chinese junks returning to the empire, and of smaller ones passing to and from the Meinam, gives much life to the scene. There are, it is said, upwards of eighty vessels trading between China and Siam this season. Besides the exercise of patience, it affords a favourable opportunity, as the eye ranges over a part of this heathen kingdom, to reflect upon the nature and dreadful responsibility of the missionary work under existing circumstances. Were it not for the promise

of sufficient grace, and the constant intercessions of our Advocate with the Father, the mind would recoil from the contemplation, and, if it could not bury itself in forgetfulness, would lie down in despair. And why should one be left to attempt that alone, which devolves upon many, as an equal duty, and demands the united labours of a host? Can the unwillingness, or even the deepest sense of unfitness to come up to the help ofthe Lord, release any from the obligation imposed by the Saviour's command? Exalted, but neglected, Saviour, arise, and plead thine own cause; then shall the heathen be saved !

19th (Friday).—After a detention of three days, before the owner could receive information of our arrival, and the opium be transferred to vessels better adapted for smuggling, we weighed anchor, and entered the Meinam. A fresh and free breeze soon wafted us to Paknam, which is the post ofthe first revenue officer. The river thus far is lined with a thick jungle, with no cleared spots, and with but one or two fishermen's huts along the shore. The following morning a number of Government officers came on board, and after drinking tea, and disputing with the Captain for some time about the amount of presents, or more properly bribes, which each should receive, they bore away their fardels, and left us to proceed. They did not know but that every box on board, except one of mine, which attracted their

curiosity, and every part of the ship, except the most exposed places, were stowed with contraband goods.

The curiosity of the Siamese and country-born Chinese appears very childish to a stranger. While I was sitting conversing with one of them, two or three were behind me, examining my dress, and lifting up the outer garment to see the texture and number of those within. Their cupidity is as annoying as their curiosity is amusing. Their ideas of beneficence are limited to deeds of alms-giving— chiefly the support of the priests—and when one of them, of some rank, heard that I was engaged in labours of benevolence, he gave me no rest from his unwearied importunity—first begging for what caught his eyes, and then for money. That I should have come to Siam without the expectation or desire of amassing wealth—merely to teach them about the God of heaven, and give them books and medicine— was so incredible, to those who had heard little of the missionaries before, that they would repeat again aud again the same question about my object in coming, as though the reply they uniformly received was too,absurd to claim a moment's remembrance.

When the morning scene had closed, and the tide suited, we proceeded up the river, doubtful whether we should be able to pass the situation of another custom-house officer, about twelve miles further,

without some detention. This officer did not even board us. Here, as at Paknam, are batteries on each side of the river, one of which is very extensive, with a collection of native huts in their vicinity. On Friday morning I left the junk at anchor a few miles below Bankok, and came up in a small boat to the house of our former patron and friend, Mr. Silveira.

CHAPTER XII.

SIAM.

My second residence in Siam lasted between five and six months. The object which hastened my departure from the straits, before there could be a rational hope of the restoration of health, was to supply the Chinese junks, about returning to the empire, with Christian books. It appeared so doubtful whether, even if I remained longer at Singapore, I should not be eventually compelled to try a change to a colder climate, that I felt determined rather to hazard the experiment upon my health, than to suffer an opportunity of such extensive usefulness to pass unimproved. With the blessing of the Lord, striking and encouraging in many respects, I arrived in time to furnish about fifty junks, bound for China and Hainan, its dependency, with the Scriptures and Christian books. The delay of a week would have lessened this number materially. Nearly thirty had already sailed, and the rest were hastening away with the greatest dispatch. The mornings and evenings of nearly three weeks were thus employed, at the close of which time a return of debility restricted me

to in-door labours, and even these received but a superficial attention.

The most hopeful circumstance concerning the mission, is the number ofattendants upon our Sabbath services. Between twelve and twenty Chinese have generally been present—few indeed, contrasted with the myriads who cling with madness to their idols, but encouraging when compared with the past. Our auditory has been gradually increased by a species of management, which, had I remained, would probably have swelled it to a large congregation. In conversing with the numerous applicants for medicine, I told such as I thought could well attend, of our Sabbath service, and appointed that day and hour for them to come for a fresh supply of medicine. Many who commenced their attendance through these means, became too much interested in their new pursuit to discontinue it. Besides this, about half a dozen have enjoyed the benefit of daily worship and catechetical instruction. The effect has been, that the majority have had their ideas on the doctrines of Christianity greatly enlarged, aud a few have manifested such an effect of the truth upon their hearts as I sincerely hope may prove to them the dawn of an eternal day. These have rejected their idols, and established the daily worship of the true God.

I have not ventured to baptize any, and, consequently, term none of them converts. The most hopeful have lived too far off, to bring them under

such a course of instruction as seems important, where the mind is just emerging from gross darkness, and where the light itself shines so dimly. I expected soon to leave the place, and feared that a change of circumstances might produce a change in their impressions and conduct; and, what was more, I knew that if they were the children of God, they would remain such—if not, the administration of this rite might prove a source of delusion to their own minds, and of scandal to those around them. The person who was baptized by my predecessor, Mr. Gutzlaff, appears to know the truth in the love of it. He has renounced all the absurd notions and customs sanctioned by their religious creeds, and blended with the renown of their ancient moralists—an evidence of mental renovation which can be estimated only by those who know how the Chinese plume themselves upon the parade of this knowledge, and with what difficulty they are made to abandon it as absurd.

The Siamese were much more reserved than before, probably at the suggestion of those who begin to open their eyes upon the consequences of intercourse with us, and tremble for the doom of their gods and temples. A fabric of idolatry so extensive and consolidated as the prevailing religion of Siam, based upon the interests of a vast body, a nation of priests, supported by the superstition, the pride, and of course the power, of the Kings, the princes, and the whole community; cannot be expected even to

N

totter upon the application of so slight a force as we have brought to bear against it. This remark is made, to guard against the impression of many that the ruling powers of Siam, and the community at large, are rather the patrons than the opposers of Christianity. However favourably the few who examined the subject may have received it when it was a novelty, and a matter of curious inquiry, yet that was not the time of trial.

The power of the truth in pulling down strongholds without—their venerated temples and idols,— and the still stronger holds within—even all their sacred associations and deep-rooted habits—had not been experienced nor understood. Neither do I believe it to be yet known, except to a very limited extent, although there appears to have been suspicions in the minds of a few, of the object and probable tendency of our labours in the kingdom.

Medical knowledge is calculated to give influence to the missionary. It attracts many, from different and distant parts, to whom we could otherwise have no possible access. It affords an opportunity for instructing those who come, and lays them under such obligations as can be made available in securing both their attention to the remarks made, and their attendance upon the established ordinances of religion. But this charity is dictated by a regard to the welfare of this life, as well as of the life to come. The most common complaints are those which yield readily to

our applications, but whose permanent cure baffles the skill of the natives, and resists the power of all their medicines.

The following are a few extracts from the journal kept at the time.

May 21st.—A busy day. Great numbers came for books—more than I remember ever to have seen before. They were principally Hainan men, from a vessel which is building in our neighbourhood. This afternoon I commenced visiting the China junks, to supply them with the Scriptures, and other religious books. Having a letter to the Captain of the port, who acts as interpreter between foreigners and the Prah Kiang, I called at his house, and was informed that the King had commanded his officers to prohibit me from distributing the books which he heard I had brought with me. " If we wanted to disseminate our religion," his Majesty remarked, " we must go to some other country." Many considerations prevented a change in my plans, and, looking for wisdom to Him in whose hand are the hearts of kings, I went from the interpreter's house to the great business on which I came forth. In four of the five junks visited, the books were well received. Occasionally I meet with those who are full of all kinds of suspicion, and with whom but little can be done.

22d I arose early, and went on board of four junks. In the first I met with a man who appeared not only friendly, but acquainted, at least to some

N 2

extent, with the true God, and his redeeming Son. After a little conversation, he said that he was a A'elestan [Christian, according to his pronunciation] belonging to the island of Hainan *—that there were three or four Padres, and about three thousand native Christians [Papists] on the island. It confirms the account that I had previously received, respecting the Catholics having retained a considerable footing there, when expelled from China. I gave him the Scriptures, and a number of other books, some of which he promised to carry to his friends ofthe same profession at home. From his unreserved manner, he could scarcely have suspected that there was any difference between me and his own priests, although he said, in reply to a question on the subject, that they did not distribute the Scriptures in the Chinese language.

I have been again somewhat troubled with a confirmation of yesterday's report. Mr. Silveira, having business with the acting Prah Kiang, was informed that the King had really said the books must not be distributed in his kingdom. Mr. S. thinks, and with much reason, that the priests are taking the alarm f, and employing their influence with the King topre *A large island to the south of China, between 18 and 20 degrees North Latitude, and 108 and 111 degrees East Longitude. It must not be confounded with the little island of Hainam" mentioned p. 70.—Ed.

{empty}t.The King's officers admitted that it did not interfere with his Majesty's command to supply the Chinese junks with books, though I neither promised nor intended to confine myself to them.

vent their downfal. I think I never enjoyed the Second Psalm so much as to-day.

June the 12th.—Since the last date I have been employed, early and late, in visiting about fifty junks. With a very few exceptions, the books have been thankfully received, and the instructions and exhortations, though often brief and feeble, have been heard with attention—I hope with profit. The employment has sometimes been delightful. Every where a most hearty welcome was given, and at times the noisy, though respectful, salutation of the gong has been added. Often has it been cheering to witness the readiness with which the most important doctrines of Christianity were comprehended, and animating has been the assurance that " our labour is not in vain in the Lord." Oh, how easy to the power of Omnipotence is the conversion of a fallen world ! This is our dependence—here we rest; and our constant and only aim should be to have Jehovah " make bare His arm " in this glorious work.

June 25th.—My attention has been lately confined to in-door labours. Among the numerous patients were two most pitiable objects. One of them was speechless, and unable to walk, from paralysis; but so sensitively alive to his miserable condition, that he wept in anguish at the probability of never being restored. Even if relief was attainable by the efficacy of medicine and the skill of the practitioner, they have not sufficient patience to be healed. Often have

they come with inveterate diseases, and though they have been forewarned of the consequences of not repeating their calls, yet, from not being healed immediately, they have lost their faith in the remedy, and never applied again.

The most trying circumstance of the past week, and one which has called forth many a sigh, is the conduct of the boy who had been with me for nearly a year, and who I hoped had "passed from death unto life." He had been addicted to intemperance before he entered our service, but for a long time had appeared to be perfectly reformed. While at Singapore with me, he had to associate, in the family in which I lived, with a profligate fellow-servant, whom I have heard him warn against the evil consequences of dissipation, but who seduced him into the very crimes he had himself so solemnly condemned. Before I suspected the least misdemeanour, his conduct had become so offensive to the public, that I was compelled to dismiss him immediately from my service. I know of nothing more painful to a missionary's heart than an event of this kind. Those who have followed to the grave a cherished child— one who was their solace in loneliness, and their hope in coming years—may form some idea of this trial. But, no! what is a bodily pang, a temporary separation, to spiritual, eternal wretchedness ! To see the " rulers of darkness " re-capture those who we hoped had been wrested from their dominion, and

to find the gloom of the second death closing upon those who we fondly believed had emerged into light; produce, for the moment, something of the agony belonging to the destiny of the lost.

July 7th.—Several circumstances have rendered this week one of more than ordinary interest. Among these was a visit for books from two men who had obtained some notion of the true God, and the questions of one of whom manifested a strong conviction ofthe credibility ofthe Christian religion. This poor man, when inquiring about the manner of Divine worship, was confounded at every step. To worship without images, pictures, or inscriptions of any kind; without incense-sticks, offerings of eatables, or any of those rites with which every thing sacred is connected in his mind; was more than he could readily digest. Some of them exhibit, when we talk to them, the wonder of children in hearing a marvellous tale. The great deceiver has persuaded them that the right exercise ofthe heart is a secondary and quite an unimportant matter in sacred duties.

Yesterday the man whom Mr.Gutzlaff had baptized called for the first time. He had been absent to Cochin-China and China, and had discovered, from more than mere observation, that, notwithstanding the similarity of name, our doctrines and those of the Roman Catholics were very different. He said they would not acknowledge him in Amoy, although he confessed himself a disciple of Jesus, and shewed his

credentials. That idol which they adored, and the strange, unintelligible mode of their worship, were quite as offensive to him, as his knowledge of the Saviour, and ignorance of their abominations, were to them.

I have been visited three or four times, by two of the interesting Chinese spoken of in a previous part of this journal. They came expressly for Divine worship, and would repeat their visits more frequently, were it not for the distance of their residence from us. This morning they brought an acquaintance with them, who had some knowledge of the books, and who cheerfully engaged with us in our usual service. Our friends had been rather before-hand in their reckoning, having mistaken this day (Saturday) for the Sabbath. The elder, besides his other good qualities, is the personification of Chinese politeness : the other is too modest and retiring to exhibit what his kind heart dictates.

17th.—Passing down the river yesterday evening, we saw a knot of persons assembled, in two or three places, attending to the discourses of the priests. At one of the houses where we stopped for a few moments, an old, spectacled Talapoin was seated on a platform preaching to an assembly, chiefly of women, who listened in the reverential posture of Siam,—sitting with their feet concealed, and their hands raised to the level of their faces. The dull monotony of the old man's chaunt is usually relieved by a timely

interlude of music, but we did not stop to witness this part of the performance.

The present month is the commencement of the Pnzssa/i.which lasts for three successive months, being the longest sacred season in the year. It is observed in commemoration of the time that Somnahkodom *, the last incarnation of Buddh, disappeared from this world. They say that he left three impressions of his feet on earth—one in Siam, another in Burmah, and a third in Ceylon. Pilgrimages are frequently made to the vestige visible in the hill-country of Siam; and are considered to be as meritorious by these idolaters, as is a visit to the holy city of the Jews, the Mahommedans, or the Catholics, by their respective devotees.

During this protracted season the priests are kept most busily engaged. Every day there is service at the palace, at the mansions of many of the principal men in the kingdom, and frequently at the houses of the common people. This service is kept up at the palace throughout the year. The night which closes the Prassah is a season of many ceremonies, and much noise. Guns are fired from the forts surrounding the city, at short intervals, until morning, after which, for a long time, lamps are suspended upon high poles by all who can afford the expense.

• According to tradition, the brother of Somnahkodom, a great malefactor, was crucified for his crimes. I have been asked whether he and Jesus were not the same. The devil would no doubt have it believed, according to similar attempts (e.g. the Philippian damsel), that Christ and this infamous character were one.

  N 5

The object of the noise is to frighten away the evil spirits from these precincts—the lights are to prevent the return of these dreaded genii.

Other means are employed by the priests for the same purpose. They often surround a place, from which they wish to debar their invisible enemies, with a thread, which their incantatory powers can, they imagine, render an impassable barrier. The whole walled city is thus guarded. Even human bodies are believed to be secured from demoniacal possession by the same means. Similar methods are employed by the priests in taking alligators, when they appear in the river; and, according tothe uniform testimony of spectators, they generally prove successful. In statements of this kind, and many others equally incredible, I have been at a loss what to believe. If the priests are not assisted by the spirits whom they profess to controul, they" must possess all their power, or they never could impose upon such a variety of witnesses.

Before we reached home, my ears were shocked by an oath in English from one of the heathen boys who was assisting to propel the boat. It was the only phrase he uttered in that language, and in all probability the only one he knew. It reminded me of a similar expression, which I had heard from one of another nation, residing in Siam, and who possessed no other acquaintance with the English tongue than this offensive sentence. The language of cursing, and the habit of brandy drinking, are

considered in many heathen nations as characteristics of Christians*.

31st.—Yesterday afternoon the prince Chow Fah f sent for me to dine at his house. The message was conveyed in such a manner as to admit of no refusal, although it was raining at the time, and likely to continue doing so. We are often obliged to gratify the princes contrary to our inclinations, that we may secure their favour, and be better enabled to benefit them and their nation. The entertainment was in the European style, and consisted of a variety of dishes. He did not partake with us, it being the custom of the princes to eat alone—but apologized, by saying that he had dined already.

After dinner he amused us with music upon some of their native instruments, being himself an amateur, and aided by the vocal strains of one of his attendants. As was before mentioned, there is a striking contrast, between the musical powers of the Chinese and Siamese altogether in favour of the talent and taste of the latter. Their instruments are much more melodious, and their voices softer and more natural. They usually employ two percussion instruments, borrowed probably from the Javanese. These are both on the principle of the harmonica : one of them being

• Bruce met with a person in the interior of Abyssinia who had picked up a few words of English, and those the vilest in the language.

  f "Lord of heaven."

made of transverse pieces of bamboo suspended by strings upon a small shallop frame-work; the other consisting of a number of hollow copper vessels of different sizes hung upon a circular frame. Their sweetest wind-instruments are borrowed from the Laos. They are made of a number of reeds of unequal lengths put together, and perforated so as to give the necessary distinction of notes. The prince performs with much taste on this instrument. The more we see of this young man, the more are we struck with the variety of his talents. Oh that the Saviour would verify in his case that prediction and promise, " Kings shall see and arise, princes also shall worship !"

September 2d. — Our little worshipping assembly has just dispersed. About twenty were present. It is so affecting to have a company of poor Pagans assemble on the Lord's-day, to hear the doctrines of the Gospel, and to bow the knee to their great Author, that I can scarcely endure the thought of leaving them, and am at times uncertain whether even measures for self-preservation ought not to yield to the claims ofa whole kingdom. I must, however, remember, that if the first be necessary, the other must in any case be abandoned. " The harvest truly is great, but the labourers are few."

Two circumstances, which have recently occurred, are likely to promote the objects of the mission. They have been constructing a brick foot-path between our premises and the Chinese settlement.

The way was almost impassable before, even to the bare-footed Peripatetics. It is now made of materials, and in a manner, which will probably surmount the height of the annual flood, and resist the action of its waters. Though a miserable place to walk upon for exercise, on account of the narrowness of the way, the crowd of passengers, and, what is worst of all, the number and annoyance ofthe dogs, yet it is the only alternative, during the greater part of the year, to remaining within our own little enclosure, and it is essential to the prosecution of those external duties which ought not to be neglected in this mission. Its chief advantage, however, is the facility with which visitors, patients, and worshippers, can come to the house.

The other circumstance is an agreement entered into with Chow Fah, which affords to me advantages for the acquisition of the language, and opens a door for instructing him. Every second day he sends for me to come and teach him English, and the alternate day he sends a teacher to instruct me in Siamese. Want of health prevents me from availing myself of the benefits of the arrangement except in a limited measure, and I am sorry to find that want of inclination, or fear, debars him from the full advantages of that information which I am chiefly anxious to impart. He bids fair for the throne, and is perhaps afraid of any thing which might render his success doubtful. He hears much, however, in the way of circumlocution. In fact, I am only

withheld from the plainest, most pointed conversation, by the apprehension of defeating my own object; and when there are sufficient grounds for dismissing this apprehension, the effort, in the Lord's strength, shall be made. Still I very much fear that an imperfect knowledge of his language renders all my instructions comparatively unavailing.

13th.—To-day Mr. Hunter sent for us, to witness a sight which has attracted much attention in Siam, and would be considered equally strange in more enlightened countries. It was a young child sporting in the water as in its native element, with all the buoyancy and playfulness of a fish. Its evolutions are astonishing—sometimes rolling over, with a rapid motion, and apparently no exertion; then turning round like a hoop, by bending its face under, as it lies on its back, and throwing its feet over its head. It floats like a cork, with no apparent motion of any ofthe muscles; occasionally allows itself to sink until only the half of its head is seen; dives; holds its face underwater long enough to alarm those who are ignorant of its powers; and yet appears to breathe as easily as though it had suffered no suspension of respiration. It is evidently delighted with the exercise; evinces no fatigue, nor the least apprehension, and often cries when taken up. It is a singular object, both in the water and out of it. It is three years old, very small, can neither speak nor walk, is very defective in sight, will take no food but its earliest provision—in fact, appears quite idiotic—and

has exhibited the same fondness for the water, and peculiar feats in it, from the first time that it was tried, when only a year old.

24th.—A governor of one ofthe Malayan districts

has been charged with oppressing the people for his own aggrandizement. Not satisfied with punishing the guilty, they have seized his wife, children, and relatives, and doomed them all to slavery and chains for life. This case of unrighteous dealing is by no means singular. The Siamese have lately been engaged in a war with some of the Malay tribes in the Peninsula, and, owing to their superiority in numbers and equipments, have conquered their enemies and plundered the country. It is said that as many as five thousand prisoners—families, as well as fathers —have been sent as slaves to Siam. I visited a company of them to-day, and was shocked at their condition : young and old, high and low, were huddled together like swine; filthy, diseased, some of them extremely ill, destitute of nourishment, medicine, and care. They were serving out a coarse kind of rice to them, by a careful and parsimonious measurement, without allowing them any seasoning to give it a relish, or even fuel to cook it.

25th.—My visits to the prince have been suspended for some time, on account ofthe death of an aunt who was living with him. On these occasions all the servants and subjects are obliged to have their heads shaved. To-day he took me to see the style in which

the body is preserved, and witness some ofthe ceremonies preparatory to its being burned. It is partially embalmed; in a sitting posture; with the feet drawn up, and the elbows between the knees. The shrine, or case in which it is preserved, is constructed like a pyramid, and decked with canopies and other ornaments. The priests were present, and had been repeating their prayers in a funereal tone of voice. At six in the evening twenty-four drums were beat, and trumpets blown—to frighten away the evil spirits,as I suggested, in the way of interrogation; but from mere custom, as my quick-sighted informant replied. He admitted, however, that they did believe they could drive away evil spirits; though guns, and not drums, were the proper instruments.

Their superstition with respect to these demons is extreme. He declares that they are frequently seen and heard and felt, inflicting deadly diseases upon persons. They have even the power, as he and the whole nation suppose, of introducing into the body substances too large and hard to be digested. "You hear a noise generally upon the wall where you are sleeping. If you start and inquire the cause, the object is immediately introduced through the mouth; if you lie still and maintain silence, they cannot administer the fatal dose." This art is also ascribed to men, who by their magic can reduce pieces of leather and other substances to an almost imperceptible size, and, after being combined with food or medicine,

and swallowed, can make them return to their original form. This they declare has been satisfactorily proved by a post-mortem examination. I have heard the same from the Chinese, who stand in dread of many of the Siamese, believing that they can engage malicious spirits on their errands of death, and that they often do so to avenge a private animosity, or to gain other objects. Very recently the brother of the Prah Kiang, who frequently took his place in commercial transactions with foreigners, died. We all suspected, from the slightness ofthe indisposition, and the suddenness of the death, that it must have been occasioned by ignorance or design in the native doctors. When the body was burnt, those who were present testified that a large piece of flesh was found unconsumed in the fire, which they knew must have produced his decease. This flesh was taken, distributed among the relatives, and eaten, under the impression that none who have employed this preventive can ever be destroyed by the same means. Among other witnesses, a little artless lad, son ofthe Prah Kiang, told my friend Mr. Hunter of this fact, and exhibited strong feelings of disgust when he declared that they had made him eat part of the flesh. The priests, it is said, by much praying have the controul of these spirits, or at least are beyond their controul, which furnishes a probable clue to the origin and object of the superstition.

October 2d.—Yesterday and to-day I have been

visiting the Malay captives. The place was the same as before, but the company was different, and their numbers increased. It is quite sickening to witness their misery. Some of them had died; others were apparently in the last stage of existence; multitudes were ill, none of whom had comforts adapted to their wants; and many of them, especially the children, exhibited such a painful expression of countenance as made the heart bleed. We supplied some of them with mats to keep them from lying on the cold ground. I was happy to learn that their measure of rice, though of the most inferior quality, had been enlarged, and a little dried fish added to their allowance; but, oh, what a fare for the emaciated bodies and squeamish appetites ofthe diseased !

To-day I took such medicines as I thought might be serviceable, but was disappointed to find that the greater part of yesterday's company had been removed. Among the objects of pity was a mother, whose child had been torn from her, and was about to be sent to a distant part of the kingdom. She was almost frantic; sometimes falling on her knees before those who had the management ofthe business, begging them to restore her child; then running to the boat which they were pushing from the shore, and crying out after the object of her affections, in the most impassioned manner. No notice was taken of her; the boat moved off', and she was left to the painfulness of, in all probability, an eternal separation.

We asked those to whom the poor woman appealed for pity, why they did not attend to her. They replied, that they had received their orders, and were afraid to disobey them.

October 7th.—To-day our number exceeded twenty by one or two. In the evening the priest called, and returned three volumes of the word of God, which he had taken to copy. Not knowing whether I should ever have another opportunity for private conversation with him, and feeling a strong interest in his eternal welfare, I spoke as freely as I could on the importance of having the heart interested in those truths which he had taken some pains to learn. I mentioned that his was the simple knowledge of the head, which could be of no avail toward his salvation, as long as the affections were unmoved, and his idolatry retained. By a word or two, and a very significant gesture, he made me to understand that the fear of decapitation was the great preventive to a change of faith. I told him what the Saviour said to his disciples, about not fearing those who could only kill the body, and that thousands, for the love of Jesus and eternal life, had been transported on fiery chariots to heaven.

His case reminds one of the priests in the Saviour's day, who, it is said, believed, but did not confess him openly, for the same reason. I think there is little doubt that if a change of circumstances should dissipate these fears, he would be among the

first in the kingdom to embrace Christianity. Alas that such a change of circumstances should be at all necessary!

14th.—Since the commencement of our Sabbath service I have never seen such fixed and thoughtful attention as was apparent towards the close of this morning's exhortation. The Spirit of the living Saviour was doubtless in our midst, and the hearts of many, I sincerely believe, felt His sacred presence. Again the sadness of separation came over my spirit, and again I commended this little band to ". the Shepherd and Bishop of souls." The more we labour for the heathen, the more do we see the necessity of labouring with our own hearts. It is difficult to say which is the most painful, to toil with no encouragement, or to leave unaccomplished the most encouraging labours. If there were others to take the place of those who are compelled to retire; or if the flock from whom their pastor is removed had attained to strength; the trial would be comparatively light. To labour with patience, perseverance, expectation, and prayer, is not sufficient for the comfort ofthe instrument; he must learn to have his spirit so attuned that the animating strain " I can do all things through Christ, which strengtheneth me," may allow of the interlude, "Not my will, but thine, be done."

During the past week I have supplied the Burman camp with tracts in their own language. The books were well received both by priests and people.

24th.—I have been informed, upon good authority, that the Roman Catholics in China have been reinforced this year by a bishop and four missionaries; and in Siam by one missionary. The Viceroy of Saigon, in Cochin-China, who was very favourable to the Roman Catholic religion, and a man of vast power in the kingdom, has lately died, which has produced such apprehensions among the priests with respect to their safety, that they have begged the Bishop of Siam to offer up public prayers for their preservation*. The same authority states the number of Christians in Corea to be about ten thousand. They have no European priests, but are supplied by natives from China. A bishop and several missionaries are about to be appointed.

The most prevalent languages employed by the natives and foreign residents at Siam, are the Siamese and Chinese. The spoken language of the Siamese is simple and nervous; the written, quite the reverse. Like the Chinese, there is a great deal of tone in their ordinary pronunciation, but, unlike many dialects of that language, the sense is not determined by the accent. These modulations of voice are heard more distinctly in reading, when you perceive that there are three keys, a number of notes apart, through which they pass by rules which I believe custom alone regulates, and teaches with great precision. In

• They have since suffered severe persecution.

books, they are exceedingly fond of epithets, turgid phrases, and a certain correspondence of sound in words and members of sentences. The object of language is often entirely forgotten. Instead of being regarded as the vehicle of thought, they appear to consider it as superior to all sentiment, often multiplying expressions without the least additional force or variation to the ideas. The majority of their books contain little besides this pompous display of verbiage. A number of works have been written in the Siamese language : some of them treat of anatomy, medicine, law, and other sciences; but a large proportion are novels and fables, as full of absurdities and puerilities, as the former are destitute of truth and utility. There is scarcely any difference in the mode of speaking the language throughout the kingdom : the tones vary a little, but so little that all understand each other with perfect facility.

The Bali, or Pali, is the sacred tongue of Buddh, and is studied by the priests. Many Pali words are introduced in their writings. The court language is chiefly Cambodjian. The first legislator was from Cambodjia, and, though he lived nearly twelve centuries ago, the language remains unchanged. The common era of Siam is the commencement of his political career.

The language of Cambodjia is very different from the Siamese. The Cambodjians employ the Pali character in their moral writings, but have another for

ordinary subjects. The Laos appears more a dialect of the Siamese than a distinct tongue, though the characters of the two languages are somewhat different. Between the Burmese and Siamese there is scarcely any resemblance.

The most common colloquial dialect of the Chinese in Siam is the Tay-chew, or Teo-chew. It resembles the Fokien dialect more than any other, but still differs so much from it, both in phrases and accent, that, without a mutual understanding, there can be but little intercourse between the natives of the two places. There is not the same fulness and distinctness of sound in the Tay-chew dialect as in the other. The consequence is, that it is more difficult to acquire, and especially to employ so as to be intelligible to the natives. This may be owing, however, to the great want of uniformity among themselves; as also to the fact that they are poorer and less instructed than the inhabitants of Fokien, and, consequently, if you do not happen to strike the very term and tone which they employ, they have no means of gathering your idea.

There is nothing in a missionary's labour which tries his patience and power of application so much as these difficult and different languages. No effort of genius can overcome the obstacles which he continually meets with. There is, it is true, a talent for languages, which gives immense advantages to those who possess it, but the acquisition of the Chinese

depends upon a close imitation of writings which can scarcely be said to be governed by any principles, and in which the idiom is totally different from any thing known or employed among western nations. First, a knowledge of the character must be acquired, and then you must pore over the books in which these numerous characters are employed, until you perceive how they are combined to convey different ideas. Tbe man who has the most extensive acquaintance with their classical and historical works, who can servilely imitate their style, and liberally quote their sentiments, is the literary man in China, and of course the one best calculated to influence and controul the mind of the empire. It is the untiring exertion required i-n mastering these difficulties, together with the effects of a climate unfavourable to close mental application, which has injured the health of the greater number of those who have devoted themselves to this mission. This fact, however, should not discourage any who feel it to be their duty to consecrate their lives to the salvation of these nations. The chief difficulties belong rather to the literature of the language, than to a knowledge of it sufficient for useful purposes. The colloquial dialects, though they all require attention, may yet be obtained without injury to the health, and without that application of mind which is necessary for literary purposes. To live with them, or have them live with you—to talk, though you blunder—to question, though you cannot

understand the answer—to repeat or even write down what you hear, and inquire about what you are ignorant of—to dismiss all pride, all diffidence, and to lay every man and every thing under contribution to your object—this is the best way to study languages, and a way which confines no one to his desk. It is an important rule, never to be ashamed of your ignorance, nor backward to ask even about what you ought to know; and no plan have I found so profitable as employing the pencil in catching words and sentences from the lips of those who are talking, and then, if it seems too unreasonable to make the man his own interpreter, to defer the inquiry to a future period. I have known one or two ladies whose health was delicate, who had yet made themselves such proficients in Chinese, that they could converse on all subjects, and read and explain Christian books with facility *. Still there is no other language in the East, probably no other in the world, so difficult to be completely acquired as the Chinese. The Siamese, especially the spoken language, is by no means appalling. The Malayan, employed in the Straits and throughout the islands, is simplicity itself. It is doubtful whether there is another language in the world which can be so quickly understood and employed by foreigners of all nations.

November 4th.—In the expectation of leaving the

• Being familiar with the subjects, these books are more easily comprehended by us than their own.

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place before this day, I had made arrangements for those who were disposed to continue the Sabbath services, to meet in future in the same place and at the same hour. All whom I had any reason to expect came, and these brought others with them, so that the number was as great as usual. Having, in the presence of all, mentioned the person by whom I desired that the exercises should be chiefly conducted, I resigned the office to him, and sat as a listener. The audience were very silent and attentive, and the expounder animated and happy in his views and illustrations. It was very evident to me, that, exclusive ofthe obligations which would probably bind a greater number to me than to the substitute or to their own best interests, the change is in many most important respects desirable. In power of language he has greatly the advantage—at least in his own dialect, which is more familiar to the others, and less so to myself, than the Fokien. His knowledge is extensive— the result evidently of much reading, and I hope of spiritual illumination. Besides, he knows their modes of thinking and reasoning on moral subjects, and the objections they entertain against Christianity, which have been often urged against his faith, but which they are more backward to express in my presence *.

• In a communication from Mr. Jones, the Baptist missionary who arrived shortly after I left the country, he mentions, under date of September 22d, 1833, that this little assembly continue

It was my intention, before leaving Siam, to have visited other parts of the kingdom. Juthia, the ancient capital, and Chantibun, situated on the coast towards Cochin-China, are places containing a large population, and presenting many facilities for missionary labour. I have frequently conversed with those who were acquainted with these parts of the country, and, from all that I could gather, they appeared to be inviting and important spheres for Christian exertion. At Juthia, probably at Chantibun also, the Roman Catholics have missionaries. It might be a little difficult at first to obtain access to these places, as the Siamese resemble some of their neighbours in jealousy and timidity; but time would no doubt soon remove their suspicions, and open the way to every part of the kingdom.

their worship, and that twenty were present on the preceding Sabbath. In another letter, dated December of the same year, he says, " Our little assembly of Chinese still continues, conducted by Bunty, as usual. We have for some months had as good evidence as I could expect, that two or three of his associates were true converts, but, owing to my ignorance of their language, and their slight acquaintance with Siamese, I had hitherto declined their repeated solicitations for baptism. At length circumstances were such that I did not feel at liberty to decline any longer, and on Sabbath morning, the 8th inst., I administered the rite to Chek Bunty, Chek Peng, and Chek Seang-seah."

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CHAPTER XIII.

PASSAGE FROM SIAM.

On Monday morning, November 5th, Mr. Hunter called for me in a barge, and took me to the schooner in which I was going to Singapore, and which was lying outside the bar. The schooner was chartered by him, and to his influence, and the kindness of Captain Norris, I was again indebted for a passage without expense. The vessel was less than a hundred tons in burden, and four of us were obliged to stow away in a very small cabin. Nothing peculiar occurred on the passage, except that vve were near getting on a lee shore, through the inattention ofthe helmsman. Supposing that we were running in a line with the Peninsula, we descried land immediately before us, and were obliged to beat some time against a head sea, before we felt it safe to bear away. Had the wind been powerful, and the sea high, or had we not enjoyed the advantages of day-light, the result would probably have been different.

November 23d.—Ivisited a Borneo proa, in company with Mr. Thomsen, to obtain information respecting that island, and to distribute books. The

principal man, with whom we conversed, was very intelligent and communicative. He belonged to Benjar-Massin, about which place and the other Dutch settlements, Sambas and Pontiana, he seemed to possess much knowledge. He represents the Dyaks residing near the settlements, and in the interior, as exceedingly numerous. Formerly they were all very ferocious; but the character of many of them has been in a measure meliorated by intercourse with foreigners, and perhaps by some little sense of fear, as well as of the profit resulting from this connexion. This applies principally, if not exclusively, to those who reside near the station. He says there are thousands of Chinese in the vicinity ofthe mines which abound in the interior—a fact fully confirmed by Europeans who have visited these places.

On Wednesday, November 28th, Mr. Thomsen and myself left Singapore for Rhio in the ship Dedierika, Captain Townsend, who went out of his way to accommodate us, and would receive nothing for our passage. Owing to calms, we were nearly three days in accomplishing what we expected to perform in twenty-four hours. Our object was to visit Mr. Wenting, the Dutch missionary, and to distribute books among the Malays and Chinese. We found a few thousand of each residing in Rhio and the

neighbourhood.

Mr. W. occupies a small island by himself, which,

with others in the vicinity, was formerly infested by

pirates. It was given by the Dutch authorities tothe Netherlands Society, on condition that their missionaries should make it their abode. The house is situated upon its highest eminence, commanding an enchanting prospect, and exposed to every cooling breeze. The islet contains between one and two hundred acres of land. Besides the variety of its own surface, chequered with lofty trees and native dwellings, the touches of culture, and the wildness of the jungle, you behold stretching beyond it an expanse of water, bounded on the whole horizontal range, with the exception of one opening, by numerous islands—here retiring behind each other, so as to disclose merely their promontories; and there stretching in bold continuity to an immense extent; in some places so near that almost every object may be defined, and in others so distant that you can discern nothing but their azure outline. About eight miles off appears the small town of Rhio, with its few European buildings and hill-crowned fort; on one side of which is a Chinese settlement, on the other a Malay campong, and in front, the harbour with ships and native proas. The only part ofthe horizon not bounded by hills, is the usual passage through which vessels enter and leave the harbour of Rhio, and pass and repass from Batavia, Singapore, and other places among these islands.

On the island there are about thirty Malays, whom Mr. Wenting teaches in a little airy chapel built on

another hill. We spent our time chiefly at Rhio, and were very hospitably entertained by one of the Dutch military officers. From the hill at Rhio, where the Europeans reside, the prospect is nearly equal to the one described. Among the peculiarities of the vegetable kingdom, we found the sensitive plant running wild upon the hills. A sweep of the hand or foot among its luxuriant tendrils scattered apparent death around; but a few moments shewed it to be merely apparent, for life and beauty were soon restored. We returned to Singapore in one of the small Government vessels, manned with natives, and fitted up to guard the sea from pirates.

January 18th, 1833.—Yesterday, at half past nine in the morning, I had the mournful satisfaction of witnessing the departure of my beloved Christian brother, the Rev. Robert Burn, chaplain of Singapore. I feel thankful to have had the privilege of attending his sick bed for about a month and a half, and of receiving and endeavouring to communicate such lessons as fit the dying to depart in peace, and the surviving to live with profit.

Mr. Burn was an ornament to the ministry. In him were united some of the rarest qualities of intellect and heart. In the private circle and in the pulpit he often manifested such efforts of genius and judgment as are seldom combined. His views of Divine truth were uncommonly expansive and consistent; and what gave them a double charm and

impressiveness, was the tenderness and humility of spirit which they had produced in himself. His judgment was too unbiassed, and his experience too comprehensive, to consider as important those trifling points which divide into parties the Christian church. He had his peculiar views and predilections, but in his intercourse with those of other sects they were never obtruded, and in his ordinary conversation they were seldom mentioned. Wherever he saw the image of Jesus, he acknowledged a brother. Missionaries of every name, and from every country, were welcomed to his house; and while he gladly co-operated with them in their missionary labours, he availed himself of all their aid in his own sphere of duty. " Such Christian magnanimity how rare! " and yet how conducive to the interests of all parties—the salvation of a world— the glory of an undivided Saviour!

But there was another peculiarity in this beloved brother, which not only won the hearts of all who knew him, but perhaps more than any thing else improved those other traits of character in which he excelled. He was not simply an Apollosin the Scriptures, but an Israel in prayer. Before I had the pleasure of his acquaintance, he was described to me as one who appeared ready under all circumstances to " fall upon his knees before God; " and the first time, and the last, and every time, I heard him give utterance to the sanctified impressions and desires of his own heart, it exceeded every expectation I had

formed. Such a fervourand confidence of spirit; such power in employing the arguments which a covenant God has furnished, and which He cannot resist; such a tender concern for all his friends, his scattered brethren in Christ, and his perishing fellow-sinners in every place; I believe is rarely exhibited—scarcely ever surpassed. The admiration of all who ever heard him pray, is uniform. God grant that many such spiritual wrestlers may adorn and bless the church !

In his own estimation he was below all things— none so unqualified for his office, so unfaithful in the discharge of its responsible duties. He could weep and tremble when this was the theme, and wish that he might escape from the station he so miserably filled, and shrink away into his beloved retirement— an unknown obscurity. This was well, as far as it respected its influence on his own spirit; but it evidently limited his usefulness. That which he most deplored upon his bed of death was the singular aversion, which he had felt from infancy, to mingle in society, or be made at all conspicuous. I never knew such diffidence connected with such powers of intellect. He was almost paralyzed at confronting those with whom he was not intimate, and in proportion to the part he was expected to sustain in their presence. This characteristic, though springing from humility, proved a detriment to his extensive usefulness.

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It was our earnest desire, and not without some grounds of expectation, that this sickness might not be unto death, but for the glory of God, in the eminent devotion of His servant's future course. Many, attacked by the same complaint, and under the same treatment, had recovered; and it was not until he sunk under a severe collapse, that the thought of dying was admitted with any seriousness to our minds. We were much together, both waiting for the first favourable opportunity to embark for England. The evening of the sudden change which decided in our minds his earthly destiny, I was with him until a late hour. We engaged in devotion as usual, and separated for the night without the least expectation of his near departure. The next morning the news came that he had passed a night of extreme illness, and would probably not survive the day. Agonized by the unlooked-for change, I hastened to his bed-side; but though he recognised me, and expressed his full knowledge of his approaching end, his mind soon lost its balance. At first he was agitated. It was a midnight summons, and we were all slumbering; but when he trimmed his lamp, and found his vessel replenished—nay, when he looked up, and beheld the Bridegroom—he recovered from the shock, and became composed. From this change, which preceded his departure about three days, he was generally in a state of delirium, and

continued unconscious of his situation, until his spirit was released from its prison, and admitted into ". the joy of his Lord."

Eternity probably never appeared so much a reality, a present reality—never did the glories of heaven so powerfully possess the minds of the few who stood around this departing brother—as at the moment when we believed he awoke from utter unconsciousness to the enjoyment of his Saviour's perfect likeness and fruition. Oh how solemn was the place ! We felt that the King of Saints and his ministering angels were with us; and as we committed the spirit in silence to the favour of its covenant God, a thrill of rapture chased away the anguish with which we had been oppressed. One of our number was the bereaved companion whom he held most dear in life, and whose delicate frame and sensitive heart were wonderfully sustained in this hour of overpowering sadness, and overpowering joy. Another was a friend * who had ministered most kindly to his wants, and from beneath whose hospitable roof he took his heaven-ward flight. God grant that we may all live under the impressions of that hour— then shall we not live in vain.

Mr. Burn was the son of Major-General Andrew Burn, whose interesting Memoirs are before the Christian public. Besides his afflicted widow, he has

• T. Oxley, Esq., surgeon of the station.

left a brother in the ministry, and six sisters, to mourn their loss, though they can all rejoice in his gain. Like Henry Martyn, his chief inducement in accepting a chaplaincy to the East was the desire of usefulness among the heathen. He had a considerable acquaintance with two of the languages of the country, and wrote several Christian works in one of them. May his example stimulate many, who occupy similar stations in India, and beyond the Ganges, and whose influence and exertions are much needed for the conversion of the heathen nations *.

May 20th.—During the illness of Mr. Burn, and after his decease, my health was sufficiently strong to admit of my occupying his place in the duties of the chaplaincy. Such was the beneficial influence of the change of place upon my constitution, and such the effect of the preached word, that I decided on deferring my departure, until I should see whether it was absolutely necessary to leave these scenes of labour, and diminish still more the small number of missionaries in the field. The trial of parting with friends and country is great, but the necessity of leaving the heathen world, where millions are perishing without instruction, especially when at allqua

• The inhabitants of Malacca (writes a friend of Mr. Burn) must long remember him with affection. Whenever his ministerial duties called him to that station, he never failed to address them publicly once or twice a week. He was also a liberal supporter of the schools. From the time they were first established until the Lord was pleased to take him to his rest, he annually set apart between sixty and seventy pounds for their support.—Ed.

lifted for usefulness, is much more painful to him whose heart is fully interested in his work.

In the discharge of the duties of the chaplaincy. the study of languages, and some external labours among the Chinese, my time was occupied for four or five months. I attempted to supply every Chinese family in the place with Christian books; but, while engaged in the task, my health again yielded to the influence of the climate, and I was obliged to leave half, perhaps two-thirds, ofthe work unaccomplished. A change of air and scene within the tropics may prove useful to an invalid, but it rarely restores a debilitated constitution, and generally loses all its influence after a season.

During my residence at Singapore I became acquainted with nearly all the European families in the place, and received from many of them the most polite and kind attentions. Especially was I indebted to Mr. and Mrs. Thomsen, of the mission family; and Messrs. Oxley and Diggles, under whose hospitable roof I spent the greater part of my time. I was not only the guest but the patient of the former gentleman, and received at his hands the greatest benefits*.

• Many changes have occurred at Singapore since I first visited the place : the death of Mr. Burn; the marriage of Miss Martyn, by which the Chinese schools have suffered an irreparable loss, at at least for some time; and very recently the removal of Mr. and Mrs. Thomsen, the only missionaries in the station, on account of ill health. The chaplaincy has been supplied by Mr. Darrah, who with the assistance of Mr. Thomas Scott, a young gentleman

Saturday evening, May 25th, 1833, I embarked in the Cambridge, Captain Barber, for England. The want of multiplied comforts and medical attendance, only to be enjoyed in large ships, and quite indispensable in my precarious state of health, determined my choice, or rather precluded all choice, in the selection of a vessel. A few days after leaving Singapore we made the coa6t of Borneo, and kept that island in sight for nearly a week.

engaged in commerce, has resumed some of the schools. I am happy to find that the American Board of Foreign Missions have recently occupied this field, and intend making Singapore their principal station in these countries. The printing apparatus, having fonts in two or three languages, has been purchased, and missionaries sent forth.

CHAPTER XIV.

ISLANDS OF THE ARCHIPELAGO—BORNEO.

With a single exception, Borneo is the largest island in the world. It is more extensive than any kingdom of Europe, and, although a wilderness, and a vast haunt of savage beasts and men, it possesses capabilities of culture and decoration, traffic, health, and wealth, which are scarcely surpassed by any locality in eastern Asia. The island is described by one* who travelled six hundred miles into the interior, and visited Bagottan, Passier, and Coti, as "equal in climate, and superior in productions, to any part of Asia he had seen or heard of." This gentleman had visited many of the best parts of India, and was, on this account, the more capable of estimating its relative value.

The coast throughout its whole circumference is in

• J. Dalton, Esq., from whose interesting journal these remarks are principally taken, and whose extensive observations have generally confirmed the reports of other writers. At Singapore, where Mr. D. lived and died, and where his journal was published, his authority is relied on. In some other places, where neither the man nor the subjects upon which he treats are at all known, it has been questioned.

the possession of foreign settlers, who have established themselves there at successive periods, and who claim the right of possession, as a privilege attached to their commercial and physical importance. Bugis, Malays, Chinese, and Cambodjians, have each retained a footing. The Dutch are the only European power who have preserved their settlements. The whole ofthe interior, from within a few miles of the extreme point of Salatin on the north to Sooloo on the south, from near Pontiana on the west to Coti on the east, is in the possession of the Dyaks, the aborigines ofthe island *.

Owing to their intercourse with more civilized strangers, the natives who live in the vicinity of the coast differ materially in their spirit and habits from their brethren in the interior. They are represented as tractable and mild in disposition, but so stupid or pusillanimous as to submit to every indignity without resistance. They are subject to Moslem chiefs, who have established themselves on the banks ofthe rivers, and who of course do all they can to extend their authority. The mass of the natives under these sultans remains unconverted to the Mahommedan faith.

The population of the interior is cut up into innumerable tribes, who either associate together for the sake of pillage and mutual protection, or maintain

• It is said there are other savages in Borneo distinguished by other names than Dyak, though very like them in appearance and habits.

a separate independence. The smaller rivers are generally in the possession of a distinct tribe; the larger ones, whose banks are sufficiently extensive, are inhabited by a number of them. They are described as bearing a general resemblance to each other, and being very unlike all their neighbours. For symmetry of form, strength and agility of muscle, and the most unyielding courage and endurance, the aborigines of Borneo claim a high distinction among their fellowmen. The friendly disposition expressed by some of their most powerful tribes towards Europeans, presents an opening to foreign intercourse and influence; while their active, sturdy habits, so different from their Malayan neighbours, furnish a most promising field of culture to the Christian philanthropist.

But, alas ! while this scene glows with moral beauty in the distant perspective, the foreground is filled up with every wreck and ruin of humanity. With respect to the present state of the Dyaks, it would be difficult —nay, impossible—to find their equals in all that disgraces and degrades human nature. Others are far below them in mental and bodily enervation, but we read of none so debased in the scale of depravity. In unprovoked, unrestrained barbarity, they exceed the American Indian, the Charib, and the New Zealander. How much they need the blessings of Christianity may be gathered from their present mode of life. War is their business, murder their pastime, and the trophies of cruelty their proudest distinction.

Nothing is too high for their daring, nothing too low for their despicable cruelty. All who belong not to their confederacy are reputed enemies, whose heads they endeavour to secure, at any hazard, and by any means. The unfair and savage manner in which they prosecute their warlike expeditions, or rather their expeditions in search of human heads, is abhorrent beyond all parallel. Insulated huts, defenceless campongs, unwary fishermen, wretched stragglers, old and young of either sex, are alike their prey. The men and elder women are inevitably murdered; the young women and children they seize for slaves. In an expedition of Selgie, one of the most powerful chiefs, which lasted for three months, they took seven hundred heads. Such is the importance attached to a warrior who possesses many heads, that he takes his place in the presence of the Rajah with the air of exalted worth; while those who are destitute of these distinguishing trophies, are glad to creep into any corner to escape notice.

Human heads grace the occurrence of every important event. They are employed to celebrate a Dyak's birth, and to consecrate his marriage; to mitigate his diseases, and to appease his spirit after death. Marriage is always referred to the Rajah, who calls before him the young man and the father ofthe girl. If the latter can produce ten heads, the former must shew half the number, in the expectation that when his age equals that of the other, the

emblems of their bravery will be alike. If the young man is unable to produce the requisite number, he summons a few friends, and sallies forth in search of the deficiency, well aware that if he do not succeed his lasting disgrace will be the consequence. Every head is submitted to a close examination, and none but those of recent victims are admissible. A part of the ceremony consists in both parties taking a head in each hand, and dancing round each other, with the most extravagant gestures, amidst the applauses of the Rajah and people. Upon the death of a chief, the mound in which the body is deposited must be studded with fresh heads, as the most acceptable offering to the deceased. No warrior can presume to make a visit of condolence to the family, without bringing at least one head for the occasion. During the first year or two, these heads are occasionally changed. All kinds of sickness are supposed to be under the influence of maligant spirits, whom nothing can so well propitiate as human heads.

What mournful ravages must a custom so prevalent and desolating spread throughout this vast island! What numbers of victims are annually required for such numberless purposes! What can prevent a total and speedy extermination of all these ignorant, ill-fated tribes, if Christian charity slumber much longer over their appeals for mercy ? In their amusements, and sometimes even in their domestic economy, the same

reckless disregard for human life is evinced. They are extravagantly fond of cock-fighting, and stake almost every thing they can command upon the game. If the sum be lost, and not paid within twenty-four hours, the winner has a legal right to dispatch his debtor, and he generally does it. Upon an expedition, if the Rajah's appetite craves fresh meat, and an inferior animal is not at hand, one of his train is butchered, and served up as a substitute. When the men of wealth bury their treasure, which is a common custom, they uniformly destroy the slaves who assisted them, that the secret of the depository may be confined to themselves.

It is difficult to determine what religious notions the Dyaks entertain. They have no apparent dread of dying. Their great and only fear is the loss of these human heads, and this they deprecate more than the majority in Christian lands do the loss of their souls. Yet that there are evidently some glimmerings of a future state in their darkened minds, may be gathered from their burial rites, and from other circumstances, which are grounded upon a belief in the continued existence of the spirit. That they have no idea of a retribution for their present actions appears very evident from their brutal conduct, unless they reverse all natural sentiments of right and wrong, or believe that the awards of eternity are to be thus reversed. Islamism, which has planted

itself upon their coasts, and succeeded in captivating the Bugis, Malays, and neighbouring tribes, has not been able to bow these sturdy spirits to its yoke.

It is said, by some of the older writers, that their language contains many words common to the Malay and the Sanscrit. They appear to have no written characters, as Mr. D. met with but three men who could write, and they had been taught the Bugis language, and were regarded as prodigies.

Towards the centre, and inclining to the north, the natives are described as still less tractable—roving about the woods, naked and wild—neither dwelling in huts, nor cultivating the ground, nor even associating with each other. These miserable creatures are hunted by the more civilized Dyaks as an amusement. Their infant children, whom the mothers cradle upon the pendant branches of trees, are shot like monkeys. The captured men are of course beheaded, and the women spared only when young. The children are taken home and made their drudges. To prevent their escape, which their masters declare is invariable if entrusted with their liberty, they cut off a foot, and stick the stump in a bamboo of molten damar. This prevents their running, and secures their services in paddling the boats.

The north and north-west coast has seldom, if ever, been visited by Europeans. The Bugis and other traders affirm that it is by far the richest part of the island, containing a dense population, who carry on

an extensive traffic with Cambodjia and the neighbouring islands. The Cambodjian language is as much employed as any other. Near Pontiana are a large number of Chinese, who work the mines, and who are accessible to the Christian missionary. Mr. Medhurst visited them a few years ago, and published an interesting account of his tour.

Borneo might be immediately occupied as a missionary field. Our ignorance prevents us from stating very definitely its advantages for Christian enterprize. No doubt there will be serious obstacles to the work, and much self-denial and perseverance will be necessary in its prosecution; still there are stations where missionaries would be protected, and whence encroachments might be gradually made upon the interior, until the length and breadth of this extensive land was possessed. The Romish Propaganda have been addressed upon the subject by a child of that church, who formerly resided upon the island; but his Holiness, contrary to his usual vigilance and promptness of action, has thus far neglected the opportunity. The writer met the present Resident of Pontiana at Batavia. He says the natives near the foreign settlement are heartily sick of Mahommedan tyranny, and would gladly exchange their faith to be released from their masters. It is supposed that there are about two or three hundred thousand Dyaks in the vicinity of this station, besides twenty or thirty thousand Chinese, and a number of Malays.

He appeared desirous that missionaries should be sent, and would no doubt assist in their establishment. Here, then, the first mission might be planted. Sambas and Banjar-Massin, also in the possession of the Dutch, will probably be found equally accessible and inviting.

From Mr. Dalton's account, the natives of the interior seem very desirous of cultivating an intercourse with Europeans. Selgie, the most powerful chief in the south-east division of the island, said that he would even desist from the custom of cutting off heads, and submit to Europeans in any thing, if he could enjoy the advantages of their trade. Mr. D. thinks a traffic with these people would be both practicable and profitable. The rich productions of their country might be received in exchange for the superabundant articles of European growth and manufacture. Though their object in wishing to form an acquaintance with foreigners is purely secular advantage, yet it proves that they are far from being averse to Europeans, or wishing to keep aloof from them : and if an honourable trade is to be a means of introducing the Gospel, the time is no doubt approaching when the heart of many a godly merchant will leap at such an enterprize, and his swift ships fly upon these errands of mercy.

It is not to be concealed that the pirates, which infest some parts of the coast and the mouths of some of the rivers, are numerous and desperate. Plunder

is their only object, force their only law, and destruction the only quarter they shew; but they are chiefly confined to the east and south-east coasts, and there would be no necessity for going near their districts, at least with vessels which would invite and could not repel an attack.

There is a constant trade kept up between Singapore and different parts of the coast; and the missionary residing at the former place often visits their proas, and supplies them with Christian books. Here, then, is another opening through which the Gospel might be introduced, not only in the way of tracts, but by the visits of the living teacher. As in the case of Mr. Dalton, these traders might be bound to protect the missionary, by the strongest guarantee they know of; and thus he might gain access, under a security, which, independent of special protection from on high, would afford comparative safety.

CHAPTER XV.

CELEBES—SOOLOO.

C e lebes—a short distance east of Borneo—is another island of much importance, and teeming with savage, cruel inhabitants. It is remarkable for the martial spirit, commercial enterprise, and piratical atrocities of many of its inhabitants. The most prominent nations are the Bugis, and Macassar, or Mengasar, tribes. They speak different languages, or, more properly, different dialects of the same language; the written character being nearly the same. The language of Goa or Macassar is peculiarly soft and easy of acquisition, but not so copious as the Bugis— the latter having embodied in their vocabulary a greater number of foreign words. The literary compositions in both are numerous. They consist chiefly of historical details, written since the introduction of Mahommedanism in the early part of the sixteenth century, traditions of more early times, romances, poetical compositions of love, war, and the chase. They have a paraphrase of the Koran, and several works translated, most probably, from the Javanese

p

and Arabic. Each particular state records its public events as they occur.

These nations far surpass the Malays, and many other of the neighbouring tribes, in intellectual vigour, and various acquirements. Here then are advantages for missionary labour, which are seldom found among such otherwise barbarous creatures. They have extended their commerce from the western shores of Siam to the eastern coast of New-Holland. Excepting the Arabs, they are the only traders of consequence throughout this Archipelago. They have the character of fair dealing in trade, but are most determined pirates—preying especially upon their weaker neighbours, the Malays, whom they regard as their inferiors. The Mahommedan religion prevails in the south-west, but in tbe north and central parts of the island they are Pagans, or scarcely have a religion at all. The aborigines of the island, possessing the interior, are strikingly allied in appearance and customs to the Dyaks of Borneo. They are known by the same name. By the Dutch they are called Alforees. The fondness of both for cutting off heads is the same—their languages are different.

Mandhaar, on the west coast of Celebes, was visited by Mr. Dalton. The mountains are stupendous, and can be seen at sea at the distance of a hundred miles or more. For more than twelve miles

along the shore at the place where he landed, the houses almost join each other. The people are in general miserably poor, and live upon the meanest fare. All the rice which they use is brought from a distance of two hundred and fifty miles. None but the chief people can afford themselves this luxury. The inhabitants generally live upon sago, which, though of a coarse quality, grows most luxuriantly, and costs the indolence of the natives nothing but the labour of collecting it. Cocoa-nuts of the most delicious flavour abound. For the distance of seventy miles the coast is adorned with cocoa-nut trees, extending, in many places, to the base of the mountains, half a mile from the shore. These constitute a ehief article of trade, being exported in great numbers to every part ofthe eastern coast of Borneo, where very few are produced.

The common food ofthe inhabitants consists in a great degree of shell-fish. These they take when the tide ebbs. The shore is sandy, and the sea retires at least four miles; at which time the whole population is in motion, following the water as it recedes, and picking up crabs and various kinds of craw-fish. When the tide flows again, the different parties get into their small canoes and paddle to their houses. Fish caught in nets is eaten only by the wealthier class, for, though very cheap, it proves too dear for those who have nothing to purchase it with. The only articles the common people are obliged to buy

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are tobacco and salt; and to pay for these, all the women and children of the community spend their time in making sarongs, for which they obtain a sufficient sum to procure the required articles, and to furnish the master of the house with a small allowance for gambling. The Rajah and his family, and all others who can afford it, smoke great quantities of opium. They are constantly in a state of stupidity, from the effect of this drug, and refuse to see strangers until time is given them to recover. They sell their golddust, in which the Rajah and some of his brothers are rich, for nothing but opium, muskets, swivels, •and gunpowder.

Mamoodjoo, the principal campong in the district of Mandhaar, is the residence of about forty Rajahs, each of whom has a separate dominion in the interior, although they prefer living together on the coast. Their countries produce gold, of which they obtain sufficient for their wants. Many of them appear to possess a large quantity of this metal, and, although cautious in every other kind of expenditure, they willingly bring forth any amount to pay for the means of carrying on their wars and piracies, and to purchase enough of opium to keep them in a constant delirium of intoxication.

From the point of Mandhaar to Kylie, including that place, there are about fifty Rajahs, few of whom have less than ten proas, and some upwards of a hundred. The smallest of these carry one barrel of

gunpowder, the largest five; besides which they always keep a quantity on shore. The large supply of this article, in such constant demand, is smuggled from Java, and obtained from American vessels near Penang. Such is the miserable quality of the powder sold to them by the Americans, who employ samples of a good quality to deceive them, that it is necessary to prime with another kind; and the muskets are composed of such materials, that it is said, that being shot at by them is nearly as safe as firing them. Still these numerous pirates commit, at times, dreadful ravages. Two Dutch vessels were taken by them in 1828, and every soul on board murdered. The inhabitants of Kylie are proverbial every where for these atrocities. For the last twenty years the Rajah has carried on his depredations in these seas, and, besides his other captures, has taken many Europeans, a few of whom, it is thought, are still living in slavery in Borneo.

No part of Celebes, except Macassar, has been conquered by Europeans. In Boni not a foot of ground has been retained. Waagoo, or Waju, is still less known. All the native states retain their primitive greatness, and the most enlightened of them have never been visited by Europeans. The writer met a Dutch officer, who is, perhaps, the only exception to the above remark. He had penetrated some distance into the interior, and spoke very highly of

the intelligence and hospitality of one of the native queens, whose district he had visited.

The northern parts of Celebes are inhabited by a number of native tribes, who have never been converted to Mahommedanism, and do not appear to be wedded to any heathenish superstitions. They are strongly attached to the Dutch, and acknowledge them as their superiors and lords. They appear early to have attracted the attention of the Christians in Holland, and were furnished with a minister, who baptized large numbers, and established among them schools with native teachers. Still this promising field was but scantily supplied with the means of culture, and, during the ravages of the French revolution, it was quite forgotten by the churches at home. On the arrival of the first permanent missionary of the new era, much interest was manifested by the native chiefs, and the descendants of Christians, to have schools re-opened among them. Such were their predilections in favour of Christianity, that in a few years more than six hundred persons were admitted into the church. Some ofthe Rajahs offered themselves as instructors of their own people. In 1831, Messrs. Reidel and Schwartz, missionaries of the Netherlands Society, arrived in the island. After exploring the whole country, they fixed upon two places for their permanent abode. Mr. Reidel remains at Tondano, and Mr. Schwartz at Longowan.

These brethren are greatly encouraged by their prospects of usefulness. The schools in the environs of Manado are numerous and increasing, the church prospers, and the Lord evidently blesses the labours of his servants. " The Dutch government has greatly aided the missionaries in the prosecution of their work. There is also a spirit of improvement in the external circumstances of the natives, which ahvays accompanies the progress ofthe pure Gospel. We shall soon hear more respecting the great things which the Redeemer has done for these poor islanders *."

Farther to the north lies the island of Sooloo, and a small group known by that name. Though comparatively limited in dimensions, Sooloo is represented by Dampier as one of the most interesting islands in this part of the world. It is celebrated for the large quantity of ambergris thrown upon its shores, also for its valuable pearl fishery. Besides these sources of wealth, it abounds in wax, gold, birds'nests, beche de mer, and other articles of traffic. Writers differ about the number and character of its inhabitants. All agree respecting the power of the Sultan, whose dominions include the neighbouring islands and part of the coast of Borneo. Some affirm that it has " a vigorous government, a numerous fleet, and an army of fifty thousand well-equipped men,

• Chinese Repository, vol. ii.

animated by superstition and united in hatred of the Christian name." The Spaniards made two successive attempts to reduce it to their authority, but were repelled. In a third attack they gained possession, but were soon obliged to abandon it. The fourth and last effort resulted in their disgrace, and in a successful reprisal made by the natives, and some of their Mahommedan neighbours, who laid waste the Spanish possessions for three years.

For the speedy conversion of the numerous tribes inhabiting the islands of these seas,including the north of Borneo, where Spanish influence is not felt, and the Roman Catholic religion is not acknowledged, we must call upon those who possess the means of intercourse and traffic with the nations, and whose invaluable talent, it is hoped, will be no longer laid up in a napkin.

CHAPTER XVI.

PHILIPPINE ISLANDS.

About north-east from Sooloo is situated the island of Mindanao—Magindanao of the charts. It contains nearly as many square miles as the largest of the Philippines. The Spaniards, in the zenith of their glory, repeatedly attempted the subjugation of this island as well as its neighbours, but were either repulsed or soon obliged to abandon their dearly gained possessions. In one expedition it is said they did not even land, being appalled by the crowd of armed natives who lined the shore. They did, however, succeed in gaining a footing on its south-western part, where they still have a small useless settlement.

The island is said to be peopled throughout by an industrious race of men, many of them from the shores of Cambodjia. The captain of a CochinChina junk, who had frequently visited this island, and those of the Sooloo group, declared that they were as thickly populated as any part of northern China. Mr. Dalton was informed that from CochinChina, and the native states about the mouth of the Cambodjia river, more than a hundred proas ofdifP 5

ferent sizes sailed directly to Mindanao, and that each of them contained from fifty to five hundred emigrants. Whether this be exaggeration or fact, another writer affirms, that " the centre and southern part of the island, and particularly the shores of its numerous inlets and interior lakes, are crowded with an immense population." " While vessels of respectable size and force, trade without danger at these places, depredations are often committed on the defenceless, both by land and sea." The inhabitants have a peculiar language, though they understand the Malay. Their religion is Islamism.

To the west lies the island of Palawan, which is also said to contain a dense population. Large numbers of emigrants annually arrive, who are obliged to spread themselves over other islands.

Magellan possesses much of the character of the two already noticed.

Including these islands, and extending north to the Bashee passage, is the Philippine group. According to the authority of one * who resided some time in Manilla, "the Spanish possessions extend from the Batan islands on the north, to Mindanao on the south, and from Paragua or Palawan on the west, to the Mariani islands on the east; but their sovereignty over all these limits is not equally full. The Batan islands appear to be rather an ecclesiastical than a

L°i. T ?'ng' Esq* siomTwh°se manuscript, and a small work published a few years ago in India, these extracts are taken.

■civil dependency. The Spanish possessions thus defined, comprehend twenty-eight provinces, of the greater part of which there are no published accounts. They contain a population of three millions and a half. These are generally found along the shores of the sea, around the bays, and upon the banks of the rivers; the interior of the larger islands being still a dense forest. In the depths of these forests some wretched aborigines still exist, the relics of tribes dispossessed by their Malayan invaders."

In a volume published in India, and reviewed in the Chinese Repository, it is said that in " situation, riches, fertility, and salubrity, the Philippines are not exceeded. Nature has here revealed, according to all that poets and painters have imagined, the unbounded luxuriance of Asiatic scenery. The lofty chains of mountains, the rich and extensive slopes which form their bases, the ever-varying change of forest and Savannah, of rivers and lakes, the yet blazing volcanoes in the midst of forests coeval perhaps with their first eruption—all stamp the works of Deity with the mighty emblems of His creative and destroying power." Rice, sugar, coffee, cocoa, hemp, tobacco, cotton, indigo, and many kinds of delicious fruit, are among the articles of produce which render these islands highly valuable.

Of the numerous inhabitants of the Philippines but a few hundreds are Europeans, the remainder are Negroes, Malays, Mestizos, and Creoles.

The Negroes are doubtless the original inhabitants of the islands. They are small in stature, woolly headed, and thick lipped; some black, and others of a mulatto complexion. They live in low huts of canes, sow rice, maize, potatoes, &c, and come down to the neighbouring villages to exchange wax, deer, and the fruits of the forest, for necessary articles. They are divided into many tribes, and are distinguished by peculiar habits and dialects. The most degraded of them are described as " naked vagrants, without home, without religion, with no other shelter than that which the rocks and trees afford; satisfying the cravings of hunger with wild fruits and unhealthy roots; rarely using their bows on the abundant game around them, though ready enough to draw them against their fellow-men. Covered from head to foot with loathsome scurf and eruptions, their longest life rarely exceeds forty years. The oldest of them is recognised as chief. They inter their dead with a flint, steel, and tinder, a hatchet, and a piece of venison; and the passenger is obliged to leave at the grave a part of what he has obtained in barter, or caught in the chase."

"The Malays, or Indians as they are called by the Spaniards, appear to have emigrated to this country at different times, and from different parts of Borneo and Celebes. Those of the provinces are a proudspirited race of men, possessing all the elements of greatness, though for three hundred years they have

been ground to the earth by oppression, their spirit tortured by abuse and contempt, and brutalized by ignorance." The same writer describes the Indian as " brave, tolerably faithful, extremely sensible of kind treatment, and feelingly alive to injustice and contempt; proud of ancestry, which some of them carry back to a remote epoch; fond of dress and show, hunting, riding, and other field exercises; but prone to gambling and dissipation. He is active, industrious, and remarkably ingenious. He possesses an acute ear, and a good taste for music and painting, but little inclination for abstruse studies. He has by nature excellent talents, but these are useless from want of instruction. The little he has received has rendered him fanatical in religious opinions; and long contempt and hopeless misery have mingled with his character a degree of apathy, which nothing but an entire change of system and long perseverance will efface from it." This, however, does not exhibit the worst features of the Indian character.

"Under the name of Mestizos are included not only the descendants of Spaniards by Indian women, but also those of Chinese, who are in general whiter than either parent, and carefully distinguish themselves from the Indians. The Mestizos, with the Creoles of the country, like those of all colonies when nncorrected by a European education, inherit the vices of both progenitors, with scarcely any of the virtues of either. Their character has but few marked

traits. The principal ones are vanity, industry, and trading ingenuity. Money is their god. To obtain it thej* assume all forms, promise and betray, submit to every thing, trample and are trampled on. All is alike to them, if they can obtain their end. And when their wishes are crowned, they dissipate their wealth in law-suits, firing cannons, fireworks, illuminations, processions on feast days and rejoicings, in gifts to the churches, and in gambling. This anomaly of action is the business of their lives. Too proud to consider themselves as Indians, and not sufficiently pure in blood to be acknowledged as Spaniards, they affect the manners of the last with the dress of the first, and, despising, are despised by both. Such are the three great classes of men which may be considered as natives ofthe Philippine islands. The Creole Spaniards, or those whose blood is but little mingled with Indian ancestry, pass as Spaniards. Many of them are respectable merchants, and men of large property, while others are sunk in all the vices of the Indians and Mestizos."

"The Chinese residents retain here, as in every place, their national character—active in business, and not above its meanest minutiae; winning their way by pliancy and presents; unprincipled in acquiring, and gross and sensual in enjoying their gains. Their close combination, and large share in the most profitable and least laborious employments, have always brought on them the envy and hatred of the Indians.

Upon the complaints of the latter, Government has been led to treat them severely. Yet they have proved themselves serviceable to the country and its other inhabitants. Few of them are men of much property, though doing a great proportion of the commercial business of the country. They procure licences to remain, receive baptism, become Roman Catholics, intermarry, and hold property; but when able to return to China, they appear not to regret leaving their families and their faith behind. Their number is probably twenty thousand, which is a mean between the low official estimate and common opinion." Such is the feeling of hostility towards the Chinese, that they have had their commerce interrupted, have been expelled from the island, and sometimes slaughtered in great numbers.

"That this highly favoured country should have remained till the present day almost a forest, is a circumstance which has generally excited surprise, and has been attributed to the indolence of the Spaniards and Indians; but this is a superficial view ofthe subject. The true reason is, because there is no security for property. Does an unfortunate Indian scrape together a few dollars to buy a buffalo, in which consists his whole riches?—woe to him if it be known, and if his house stand in a lonely situation : he is infallibly robbed. Does he complain, and is the robber caught ?—in a short time he is let loose again, to take vengeance on his accuser, and renew his

depredations. Hundreds of families are yearly ruined in this way. The imperfect mode of trial, both in civil and criminal cases, lays them open to a thousand frauds."

That which, in the history'of these islands, is most to be deplored, and which has been perhaps the principal cause ofthe ferocity and treachery which in the East characterize Manilla men*, is their religion. "The Church of Rome has here proselyted to itself the entire population. The natives have become bigoted Papists. The services of the church are administered by nearly one thousand frailes, curas, cleros, &c.; the first offices being held by the Spanish clergy." At the head of this colonial establishment is an archbishop, who has three suffragans, and two hundred and fifty Spanish clergy, besides about eight hundred natives. The influence of these priests is unbounded. They hold the minds of the miserable natives in complete subjection, while they themselves are the slaves as well as the patrons of iniquity. Their ministrations are confined to the altar and the confession-box. " Common report attributes to the priests lives deformed with the grossest immoralities. In the obscurity of their parishes, much concealment to their licentious conduct is not attempted, nor have

• Such is the revengeful and sanguinary character of these men, that it is said to affect the insurance of the ships in which they are employed. The massacre of 1820 illustrates the ferocity of their character.

the majority of them refinement enough to think it becoming."

One source of vice and poverty among the natives, is the number of religious observances imposed upon them. "The church has marked out, exclusive of Sundays, above forty days in the year, on which no labour must be performed throughout the island. Besides these, there are numerous local feasts, in honour of the patron saints of towns and churches. These feasts invariably end in gambling, drinking, and debauchery of every description."

While the Spaniards retain the possession of these islands, and the priests bear the rule, we scarcely see how any efforts can be made for the spiritual welfare of the natives. The importation of Bibles is strictly prohibited. Every ship is searched, and the most serious consequences might result to those who incurred the displeasure, or even the suspicions, of the priests. The city of Manilla, which contains some forty thousand inhabitants, and is described as an agreeable tropical residence, would be a most advantageous post for missions. Let every Christian pray that the power of the Beast may be destroyed, and the sceptre of Jesus extended over these perishingsouls.

CHAPTER XVII.

LOO CHOO ISLANDS.

North-east from the Philippine islands is situated the Loo Choo group, of which such interesting accounts have been furnished both by European and Chinese voyagers. There are about thirty-six of these islands, subject to the same Government, though all very limited in dimensions. The largest is only fifty miles long, and twelve or fifteen broad. Like many of the other islands described, some of these are represented as beautiful spots. " From a commanding height above the ships," says an English writer, " the view is in all directions picturesque and delightful. On the one hand are seen the distant lands rising from a wide expanse of ocean; while the clearness of the water enables the eye to trace all the coral reefs which protect the anchorage immediately below. To the south is the city of Napafoo—the vessels lying at anchor in the harbour, with their streamers flying— and in the intermediate space appear numerous hamlets, scattered about on the banks of the rivers which meander in the valley beneath. Turning to the east, the houses of Kint-ching, the capital city,

built in their peculiar style, are observed, opening from among the lofty trees which surround and shade them, rising one above another in gentle ascent to the summit of a hill, which is crowned by the king's palace; the interesting grounds between Napoff and Kint-ching—a distance of some miles—being ornamented by a continuation of villas and countryhouses. To the north, as far as the eye can reach, the higher land is covered with extensive forests." The climate is also said to be " one of the most propitious in the world."

But it is not only the scenery and salubrity of these islands which interest those who visit them. The inhabitants themselves, though small in stature, and effeminate in appearance, are uniformly described as persons of great intelligence and address. Their politeness exceeds, if possible, that of the Chinese: it extends through all classes of society, and often leads to such compliments and professions of friendship as quite nonpluss the other party. " They shew more good sense," says a visitor* whose knowledge of the Chinese nation is extensive, " than we had ever seen in China. By their questions respecting the trade which several European nations carried on at Canton, they discovered much geographical knowledge. They were able to converse on politics with great volubility."

We cannot, however, from the accounts ofsubse* Mr. Gutzlaff.

quent writers, fully confide in that high estimate of their character which the first English visitors formed. Owing to the novelty of their circumstances, they no doubt acted an assumed part, and made every thing appear to the best advantage before their polite guests. Mr. Gutzlaff declares that " they did not hesitate to tell us lies whenever it suited their purpose; but they were as ready to retract what they had uttered. Upon inquiry, we found that they had among them the same severe punishments as at Corea; that they possessed arms likewise, but are averse to using them." Still, he, as well as all others, represent them as among the finest specimens of unchristianized men.

From a Chinese account, it appears that one of their ancient kings " laid the foundation of his kingdom by military force; and that till this day there is, in a temple dedicated to him, an arrow placed before the tablets on which his name is inscribed, which tradition says is in conformity with his dying will, to shew that his kingdom was founded by military prowess *."

According to this account, " the supreme power is in the hands of the prime minister, who is absolute. All affairs ofthe revenue, the designation ofthe army, and the infliction of punishments, are under his controul, although the form of reporting to the King, and receiving his sanction, is observed." This accounts for the idea suggested to Captain Maxwell, of having

• Indo-Chinese Gleaner, vol. ii.

the minister address the King of England. The letter was declined, because it did not come from the Loo Choo King. They have derived from China the division of their officers into nine ranks; and they have drawn up a compendium of law, from the Chinese penal code.

The majority of the people, as in Japan, understand the Chinese character, but do not know how to read it in the Mandarin dialect. Their own language seems greatly to resemble the Japanese. The alphabetical writing is nearly of the same form, and the letters, with a very few exceptions, are pronounced in the same way. In imitation of the Chinese system, district schools have been established by the King, and the examination of students is conducted on the same plan. The King gives them an occasional banquet, by way of encouragement. They have set up the image of Confucius, and study carefully the commentary of Choo-foo-tsze. The readiness with which they acquire a smattering of the English language, evinces an uncommon share of intellect, as well as of tact in its employment. " I was much surprised," says a visitor, " to find a person in such a spot speak tolerable English, and was answered to my inquiries on that subject, that an English ship had been at the islands three years before, and remained a few days, in which time he (the interpreter) had learned what I now heard."

Their religion is that of Budha. They have none

of the sect of Taou-sze. There are nuns among them. They had temples in the thirteenth century, the foundations of which have long since disappeared. They have imitated what they saw in China, and have even imported her idols,—the queen of heaven and others. According to their accounts, a priest of Budha was driven on their island in a boat about {empty}a.d. 1275 They knew not whence he came; but he commenced a line of priesthood, which has been kept up ever since. As in China, they have those among them who pretend to point out propitious spots for graves, though none of them profess to understand astrology. There is every reason to believe, that, as a nation, they care very little about their superstitions. " When they heard that we did not worship idols," says Mr. Gutzlaff, "they replied, 'We also abhor this worship; those which you see here are the property of the Budhists, and we do not batter our heads against them.' This has been the general reply of many Mandarins, when I inquired upon this subject. They disavow practical idolatry, because their reason disapproves of the theory; yet they do, in fact, persevere in their unreasonable worship."

Their refusal to allow Europeans to trade, and the pains they uniformly take to prevent intercourse with strangers, have probably been dictated by their more powerful neighbours. " We do not doubt," says the writer already quoted, " that they have received strict orders from China to keep strangers aloof, and to

treat them with distance and reserve; yet they were too good-natured to confess it." If by dint of persuasion, sour looks, or even lying, they can keep foreigners from landing, it is always done. Their reason for rejecting the application of the " Lord Amherst" to trade, was because " their country was poor, and unproductive of any thing which they could give in exchange for our imports; that, besides, they had never traded with the English, and therefore this would be an innovation contrary to law." In this case, however, they had those to deal with, who, though they did not insist upon trading, were too well acquainted with the nature of such prohibitions to be frightened by them; and who, contrary to their wishes and whims, landed when, and wandered where, their inclinations prompted. They objected, as they had done before, to the distribution of books; but their objections were overruled by the same system of apparent forwardness and unyielding perseverance which had been adopted among the Chinese.

There is every reason to believe that here, as in China, the people would be favourable to foreign intercourse, and that all the opposition to it originates with the Government. When the Mandarins were out

of the way, the people received books and presents with great eagerness. " Whenever we gave any thing privately, they would gladly accept it, though they took the books in preference; but every thing openly offered them was always declined. The practice of

medicine drew crowds of patients, who felt the superiority of our medical skill, and received Christian books with gladness."

The inquiry remains, in reference to these interesting heathen, What shall be done, what ought to be done, for their eternal welfare ? How shall these lovely islands be reduced to the dominion of Christ ? Might not ships visit them ?—might not their objections to an honourable trade be annulled ?—ought we not to distribute freely among them the written word ? And who knows but that the living teacher might force himself upon them, soon dissipate their groundless fears, and prove to them the advantages of his presence and influence ? They must soon be annexed to the kingdom of Jesus; and it is high time that the children of the kingdom should attempt some plan for their immediate advantage. Ye merchantmen, who have found the Pearl of great price, to you another appeal must be made : When will you connect, with the system of missionary societies, missionary agents, and missionary presses, that of missionary ships f

CHAPTER XVIII.

JAPAN.

Still farther to the north'is the kingdom or empire of Japan, which occupies a surface of more than one hundred and twenty thousand square miles, and contains a population of about twenty or thirty millions of souls. It consists of three large islands, Niphon, Kiusiu, and Sikokf, surrounded by a multitude of smaller ones, and in the vicinity of others, stretching northward, over which they exercise a partial dominion. According to M. M. Brun, "the whole country is full of mountains and hills, and its coasts are beset with steep rocks, which are opposed to the waves of a stormy ocean. The plains are pervaded by numerous rivers and small streams. The hills, the mountains, and the plains, present the interesting picture of human industry amid the traces of the revolutions of nature. These islands experience, by turns, the extremes of heat and cold. The summer heat is frequently alleviated by sea breezes. In winter the north and north-west winds are exceedingly sharp, and bring along with them an intense frost. During the whole year the weather is variable, and

Q

much rain falls in the rainy season, whicii begins at Midsummer. These genial rains conspire with human labour and manure to overcome the natural sterility of the soil. Every spot is under cultivation, with the exception of the most impracticable mountains. Exempt from feudal and ecclesiastical exactions, the farmer cultivates the land with zeal and success." In the hands of such laborious husbandmen, the country is rendered exceedingly productive. It is said that the tea shrub grows without culture in the hedges. Precious metals and minerals also abound.

There are a number of large towns in the empire, some of which contain a population of several hundred thousands of souls. The Japanese are short and muscular in form, though graceful in their actions, and exceedingly polite. The complexion of the people varies, as in China. The women of distinction, who are seldom exposed to the sun and air, are as fair as European ladies : there is, however, very little beauty among them. " Large heads, short necks, broad snubby noses, and oblong, small, and sunken eyes," constitute the features of the majority. The mode of wearing their hair, and the quantity of oiled paper in whicii they wrap themselves for their journeys, render them rather ludicrous objects.

According to some travellers, " the laws of the country are few, and executed with the utmost rigour, and without respect of persons; only that the rich, when found guilty, are allowed to get off by paying

pecuniary fines. Delinquencies of trifling magnitude are punished with death. The moral education of the children being a political duty, parents are rendered accountable for the crimes of those whose early vices they ought to have repressed. In each village there is a place surrounded by palisades, containing in the middle an inscription, in large characters, consisting of a code of police regulations. The punishments in the seventeenth century were marked by the utmost cruelty. Hacking criminals to pieces— opening their bodies with a knife—suspending them by iron hooks in their sides—or throwing them into boiling oil—were common modes of execution. As in many other unchristianized nations, one is made responsible for the offences of another; and families, and entire villages, are visited with the extremity of punishment for the fault of an individual."

The language of Japan is distinct from that of China, though the educated class understand the Chinese character, and read books in that language. Their own is alphabetic, apparently made up of distinct parts of the complicated signs employed in China.

There are two religious sects in this country, that of Sinto, and the followers of Budha. " The first acknowledges a Supreme Being; but imagines that he is too exalted to receive the homage of men, or to have a regard for their petty interests. A large metalic mirror is placed in the middle of their temples, to remind the worshippers, that, as every spot on the

oA

body is there faithfully represented, the faults of the soul are seen with equal clearness by the eyes of the Immortals. The feasts and ceremonies of their worship are agreeable and cheerful, because they consider their deities as beings who take pleasure in dispensing happiness. Budhism here is said to be so mixed with the Sinto, or old religion of Japan, that it is difficult, and perhaps will become in time impossible, to make any discrimination between the votaries of the two."

The Jesuits, and other Romish orders, made trial for nearly a century to propagate their faith in Japan. As early as 1549, they commenced their proselyting operations in this remote part of the world. Their early success stimulated them to great attempts; several governors and tributary kings openly professed Catholicism; and in one district the Jesuits obtained the entire prohibition of every other religion. But their triumph was short. A persecution, almost as barbarous and bloody as some of their own, commenced, and raged with such fury that tens of thousands were massacred; their faith was expunged, and their very name made a term of infamy to this day. The distresses they endured are ascribed to various causes : the political intrigues of the Jesuits, and other measures suggested by a presumptuous confidence in their own influence, are among the most probable reasons. Some affirm that the captain of a Portuguese vessel, which was taken by the Japanese,

represented the missionaries as minions of the Portuguese Government, sent to prepare the way for their conquests. Others suppose that something ought to be attributed to the commercial jealousy of the Dutch, but upon what ground this allegation is made we are not informed.

Our usual inquiry has yet to be made, What can be done for the salvation of this kingdom ? Notwithstanding all the rigour of their exclusive laws, merchants trade along their coasts, and come in contact with great numbers of the natives, among whom the bread of life might be distributed, and perhaps the living teacher reside.

The following statements are extracted from the journals of captains who felt an interest in the propagation of Christianity, and who wrote to the late Editor of the Indo-Chinese Gleaner on the subject. The ship from whose voyage the first statement is taken, had been lying at Nangasaki, in the island of Kiusiu, the only place in which foreign vessels are allowed by law to anchor. Even this limited privilege is at present confined to the Dutch and Chinese nations. " After quitting Nangasaki, they landed occasionally at the villages on the coast, and were courteously received by the inhabitants, who were very numerous, and poor, with large families of children." They describe Jesso, one of the islands alluded to, and situated north of Niphon, as extensive, and inhabited by a mild and inoffensive race of men. They are

subject to the Japanese, who have a large city on the south coast ofthe island, and are, no doubt according to instructions, averse to intercourse with foreigners. "The Sagalien peninsula is situated immediately to the north of Jesso, from whence it is distant, in one part, but a few miles. The middle districts of the islands are yet in the possession ofthe natives, with whom, no doubt, a missionary might reside in as much security as among more civilized nations. Perhaps the best expedient which could be adopted to plant a mission among them, would be to ask permission at one place; and, if refused, to proceed to another, and another, until every one is tried which held forth the probability of success; and then, if the application is rejected by all, to land and stay without leave."

Another captain, who visited the famous capital of Jeddo, or Iedo, and who applied for permission to trade, gives a most interesting account of the place and its inhabitants. They were obliged to land their arms and ammunition, dismantle the ship, and submit to the closest possible surveillance. " At first our visitors were too numerous, and constant; but after the first day strangers were kept from us, and not even allowed to come afloat; however, the shore was daily crowded with spectators, a very great majority of whom were females." " On the fourth day I was gratified by a visit from two interpreters, one of whom was a perfect master ofthe Dutch language, and the

other knew something of Russian; each could speak a little English." Their inquiries manifested considerable acquaintance with the world, and especially with its politics. Russia, France, England, and Holland, were all subjects of conversation and inquiry. After their application to trade was, as usual, refused, every thing was returned to the ship, and she was towed out of the bay by about thirty boats. "Expressing the hope," continues the Captain, " that I might be allowed to leave with the interpreters some trifling remembrance, they answered, that the laws of the empire were so strict that they could not receive any thing whatever. I believe that all parties regretted the circumstances under which we were quitting each other. The shore was not only thronged with spectators, but many hundreds came by water to the neighbouring shores, to gratify their curiosity by a sight of the strange vessel. We were scarcely quitted by the tow-boats, when some of these persons approached very near, and at length accepted our invitation to come on board. Our decks were soon thronged in such a manner that I was glad to see a guard-boat pull towards us for the purpose of dispersing the crowd, by whom it was no sooner recognised than they fled in every direction : however, many quickly returned; and when we would point out a guard-boat afterwards, some would merely laugh, and say that they did not care for it; whilst at other times they would quit, and give us to

understand that they were afraid of being destroyed. In the course of that day and the following we had not less than two thousand persons on board, all of whom were eager to barter for trifles. Among other things, I had the pleasure of obtaining some little books, and other specimens of the language, and distributing amongst our visitors two copies of the Chinese New Testament, together with some tracts written in Chinese, which language appears to be pretty generally understood in Japan. If inclined to set any value on ideas which can be formed concerning the hearts of men, especially of men so accustomed to disguise their feelings as we are informed the Japanese are, I would say, with much confidence, that our dismissal was universally regretted."

Here we have the same modes of benefiting this nation suggested, which have been so successfully employed by recent missionaries in China. The one is, acting against their cobweb prohibitions, where their salvation is concerned; and the other, freely distributing religious books among them. A third mode has been mentioned, in which the missionaries fully concur, and that is, to go among them—if you can, with their permission; if not, without it—and to make the important experiment, whether our fears and their vetoes necessarily interfere with our duty and their eternal happiness. When a nation's laws are opposed to the laws and the glory of the King of kings, which must be set aside ? If our object was the extension

of an earthly kingdom, there might be some doubts whether we ought to disregard the regulations of an empire; but as long as those whom we oppose are opposed to the Sovereign of heaven and earth, to their own happiness, and to the best interests of the universe, we may dismiss all apprehensions, while we look simply at the command, " Go ye into all the world, and preach the Gospel to every creature *." Besides, the policy of kings in this case is as obnoxious to the wishes of their subjects as it is fatal to their welfare. We find that at Japan, the Loo Choo islands, and China, the people are favourable to a free intercourse with other nations. Let ships, then, be sent forth with such articles of traffic as may be useful to the heathen, accompanied by missionaries and physicians, who can benefit their souls and bodies, and who will go in and dwell among them.

• Mark xvi. 15.

Q o

CHAPTER XIX.

CONCLUSION.

In conclusion, the writer would ask forgiveness—if it be a fault—for having wandered so far from the route of his journeyings. His object has not been simply that of a traveller. He was sent forth, as a "messenger of the churches," to learn the condition of those kingdoms and islands, which, belonging to the Saviour, the church is commanded in the name of her Sovereign to occupy. Whatever may be the impressions produced upon the minds of the Christian public by reading the accounts here collected—however difficult and discouraging the accomplishment of the duty may appear—still their obligations remain imperative, the command oftheir Saviour unrevoked, and the condition of the vast majority of their race inexpressibly wretched. The talent by which they might effect a world's salvation has been " laid up in a napkin," until men have forgotten that it was ever entrusted to them. This talent they are now called upon to exercise. The slumbers of ages have been broken, the dreams of God's people dissipated, and the overpowering conviction begins to flash upon every

candid mind, that there are sufficient means in the possession of Christians to convert all nations, and that, probably, long before the close of the present century. Of course we speak with a reference to the self-multiplying nature of our agency; and still more to the exercise of that Almighty Power on which alone we depend, and which we believe would attend it.

These means are diffused among all Christians, though in unequal proportions; so that he who does nothing in this work cannot be guiltless, whatever may be his circumstances, or his sentiments. From the command of God's word, and the history of many past centuries, we conclude that much more must be done than has ever been attempted, or even thought practicable. The minds of Christians must be enlightened on this subject—their hearts enlarged— their purses opened—their energies and influence combined. No longer must vve sing with deceitful lips,

"All that I am, and all I have,

Shall be for ever thine;

Whate'er my duty bids me give,

My cheerful hands resign."

No longer must we believe ourselves Christians, and yet disregard the unequivocal declaration and express command, " Ye are not your own, for ye are bought with a price: therefore glorify God in your body and in your spirit, which are God's *."

• 1 Cor. vi. 19, 20.

The reproach of eighteen centuries must be wiped away from the sacred office ofthe ministry, that " all seek their own, not the things which are Jesus Christ's*." With a world before us, and the prospect of the greatest usefulness in its most distant, desolate corner, no man must imagine himself guiltless in any other place. While the claims of other countries are as powerful as those of England and America, and the command of Jesus is irrespective of places, we must either shew that England and America are no better supplied than those divisions of the world, or that they ought to be so; or we must prove that we are released from a universal command —that we have a dispensation to remain at home. We do not wish to imply that there is no work, of the most important kind, to be done at home—we believe that the "single eye," turn it which way you will, beholds but one object. The respective interests of the domestic and foreign fields by no means clash; their interests are identical. Still there appears to be a conflict, and one whose din is too loud not to be distinctly heard. Whence, then, its origin, and where its seat? May it not be, is it not, between the dictates of a half-sanctified inclination, and the demand ofa half-suppressed conscience? We magnify what our judgment convinces us is comparatively small— we wish to believe of invisible dimensions what we must close our eyes not to behold.

•Phil. ii. 21.

Let the zeal of the infatuated Jesuits shame us into action. Their native land and its antipodes were alike to them. " After my return to Europe," said one of their Chinese missionaries, " when my intention of seeking labourers for this vineyard was divulged, immediately there were so many candidates, that there is scarce a province of our society from which I have not received many letters, from several fathers, not only offering themselves, but earnestly requesting me to accept of them, as soldiers in this enterprise; as if the trouble and pains of these long and dangerous voyages, and the persecutions so certainly to be undergone, were as nothing to this undertaking. In Portugal, from the two colleges of Coimbra and Ebora alone, I had a list of ninety persons, so desirous to labour in this mission, that many of them have sent me very long letters, all written and signed with their own blood, witnessing in this manner that they had a holy courage that could despise the threats of martyrdom; offering cheerfully to the Lord that little blood, as a testimony of the great desire they had to shed it all for His sake*."

Are there no ministers of the sanctuary whose usefulness would be greatly increased by leaving their people and their country, and following in the steps of these blinded men? How many, alas ! are content

• Samedo's History of China, quoted in the Chinese Repository, vol.i. page 487.

with a limited sphere of labour, when kingdoms and empires lie in utter destitution ! Energies are exhausted upon trifles, talents are buried; and men who might be exceedingly useful are voluntarily incarcerated. Those who are commanded " to proclaim liberty to the captives, and the opening of the prison to them that are bound," must have this message first proclaimed to themselves. The missionary work demands the most exalted talent and extensive learning; and, consequently, the arguments employed for remaining at home, are the very ones which render more imperative the duty of going abroad. It is true that the work can accommodate itself to every order of talent and acquirement—and so can the highest stations in Christian lands; but the result in both cases will be alike. The duty of acquiring languages, translating, writing, instructing on all subjects, answering all questions, reasoning, devising facilities, managing events, in many cases practising medicine, and preaching to different classes, often in different languages, will soon convince those who make the trial, that none can be too well qualified for labours among the heathen. We speak not to discourage any, but to correct the opinions of some. None need despair of usefulness—all who feel constrained by the love of Christ should enlist in this service;—but the last objection which ought to be conceived, is, that the minds of any are so vigorous and richly furnished,

that the most difficult project of earth, opposed by all the forces of hell, is not sufficient to employ their powers.

And why is it that so few of our theological students engage in foreign missions ? How is it that such numbers never prayerfully agitate the question of duty on this subject?—never imagine that they might possibly be more useful where millions have no teacher, than where hundreds are ready to occupy the places at which they usually aim ? After all their arguments on the advantages of concentrated effort, to which we subscribe; and with all the growing demands of our own country, the supply of whicii will no doubt hasten the universal triumph ofthe Gospel; do they not know, is it not the opinion of all in whose judgment they have the greatest confidence, that those who go abroad increase, instead of diminishing, the effective agency at home ? The spirit and the influence of the missionary are among the most powerful means of awakening the churches, and directing the attention ofthe young to her highest offices. Even the infant's mind is arrested by missionary efforts, and thus pre-occupied by feelings which in many cases controul its future life.

We look with peculiar interest to the young men in the theological seminaries. We hear of numbers who enter these schools under the solemn conviction that it is their duty to devote their lives to the heathen : their friends, their fellow-students, the churches, often

regard them as virtually set apart to the work : they are commended for their zeal—their example is employed in stimulating others to high and selfdenying efforts;—but, alas ! before they close their preparatory studies, when the hour of decision for action has come, the hearts which glowed with so much ardour have sunk into apathy—the cries of the perishing are no longer heard, and the subject of missions is dismissed, as though their obligations were cancelled, the world Christianized. And whence this leaving of their first love? What influence exists in the seminaries, which proves so fatal to the hopes of God's people and the happiness of his creatures ?

One cause has been assigned, which vve shudder to contemplate. It is said, that, in some seminaries, those who retain their zeal in the cause of missions are classed by their aspiring fellows among the good men—in other words, men of an inferior order of intellect;—and to escape the imputation of ordinary powers, even as combined with elevated piety, many are tempted to withdraw themselves from their lessdistinguished brethren. God grant, for His own honour and the welfare ofthe churches, that this sentiment, which breathes so much of the spirit of its inspirer, may alarm every mind which it enters! With whomsoever this sentiment exists, we cannot but fear that such servants are above their Master. They must either believe that the very command under which they themselves profess to be preparing for the ministry,

is not true; or that Christ has devolved the most difficult and important concerns of his kingdom upon the feeblest instruments; or else they ought to perceive that they are indisposed to comply with duty solely because it is arduous and self-denying.

The fact we have stated with respect to the change of mind, or rather of feeling, in students, exists, we fear, in all theological schools; the reason assigned, we hope, is limited to a very few. What other cause, then, may produce this paralyzing effect? Is there nothing to be attributed to the influence of Professors? We have not heard that any are opposed to foreign missions : we know that the talents and influence of many are consecrated to this cause : still, is it not evident, that either the demands of our own country (we speak not of our Western missionary field) must be exhibited in seminaries as superior to those of heathen nations, or else that there must be a great declension in the piety of those students who change their purpose without the least change of judgment? With the highest opinion of extensive and varied attainments, when sanctified, still we fully believe that the salvation of the world depends infinitely more upon the right principles of the heart, than upon any training and furnishing of intellect, in which our venerable Professors may assist. The difference is this: Piety—we must not confound it with a morbid, spurious seeling of that name—piety will stimulate to all efforts, including the culture of

the mind; whereas intellect, of any character, engaged in the ministry, and not directed by its proper spirit, has generally proved of no permanent advantage to mankind. We sympathize with those who have been called to the responsible duty of preparing the leaders of God's people for their high stations; and earnestly pray, as the churches should pray, that all who have such an important direction in the spiritual concerns of the world, may be under the especial guidance of the Holy Spirit.

One request we would make of each student, before leaving this subject—that he would set apart at least one entire day, in each year of his course, to ascertain by prayer and fasting whether it is his duty to remain in the bosom of the church, or to extend her rich blessings to those who cannot otherwise enjoy them, and who must perish without them. Place yourself in imagination before the throne of the Judge; gather around you that part of the great assembly whom you might influence through direct efforts, or an intermediate agency; and, impressed with all the solemnities of that day, let the question of your duty be determined; and so determined that you shall not be confounded when the judgment scene is really present. Multitudes appear to take it for granted that they must remain at home, without examining the subject. Whatever may be their specific object in entering the ministry, we beg them to consider, whether it may not be better gained by the influence they

may exert abroad, and from abroad, than by remaining in their native country.

But the work of evangelizing the world demands more than the labours of the ordained missionary. There must be teachers, physicians, merchants, and in some places mechanics—Christian communities, who can employ all the various means by which the heathen may be influenced, and at the same time exhibit to them an example of the blessedness in which they labour to make them participate. The advantage of sending colonies, and not merely missionaries, is obvious to all who have been abroad. The work would advance in proportion to the variety of plans adopted, and the number of instruments employed. Commerce and medicine harmonize admirably with schools, the press, distribution, and preaching. And if native agency is to be efficiently engaged in the missionary work, it can never be prepared with the same facility and perfection as in colonies of this description. Besides, labour and expense would be greatly economized. Those numerous domestic duties, which consume so much of the time of single missionaries, or families, might be devolved upon a few; while the majority of both sexes would be at liberty to labour exclusively for the heathen.

Of the hundreds of physicians who take their diplomas every year, are there none with the vows of God upon them ? none, who will unite in a work so

glorious, and where their services are so greatly needed ? In many stations they can accomplish more than ordained missionaries. They have the best passport to the dwellings and hearts of the heathen; they possess a magnet which would attract crowds, and reach to places where we can never penetrate. While they can accomplish the most important part ofa missionary's duties, they can do it under much greater advantages than those who have not their knowledge. Patients feel themselves under obligations, and are disposed to comply with any methods which may be devised for their spiritual benefit. Congregations have been thus formed, books widely distributed, instrumentality increased, and souls saved; besides, the perishing have been rescued from death, the suffering relieved, and the hearts of those who would have been widowed and fatherless, made to sing for joy.

Every argument which can be addressed to others, applies to physicians; while they have but few of the reasons for refusing, which ministers and students generally offer. They do not usually remain at home from a sense of duty; they find it exceedingly difficult to obtain situations and patronage. Their services may be generally dispensed with, or performed by others who would gladly become their substitutes. What, then, should prevent numbers from discharging this important and imperative duty ? How can they deliver their skirts from the blood of souls, if they

refuse? If their education have been extensive—if they possess much skill and experience—the more are they needed, where so much may depend upon their success. The writer had an application for medical aid from the second King of Siam: he was absent at the time, and did not return until after the death of the King. How readily might a simple effort in such instances lead to the most desirable results !

Merchants, also, are capable of exerting the most salutary influence among Pagan nations. They, too, like physicians, usually draw multitudes around them, who might be instructed both orally and by books. Besides this, they would stimulate to labour, by opening a current for its proceeds. They would improve the habits of the natives, by introducing the useful arts and meliorating customs of civilized life. They would commend their religion, by exemplifying its principles in all their ordinary pursuits. The connexions which they might establish, and the obligations which they could impose, might be employed for the spiritual welfare of multitudes. Are there none who possess the means of trade, disposed to embark their capital in such a cause ? Are there none, whose engagements are not so necessary to themselves, nor so sufficiently available to the great objects of benevolence, as to prevent them from leaving their country ? The churches can. furnish numbers unencumbered with domestic cares, or, if married, without families : what should prevent such from engaging in this, or

other useful employments, when they have nothing to keep them at home, and many of them need not depend upon the Christian public for support ? When will the days of primitive Christianity return, when every Christian shall consider his possessions as the church's property, and himself as a servant of all!

The co-operation and influence of ladies are also greatly needed in evangelizing the heathen. In many countries they alone have access to their own sex. The only Christian lady who ever resided at Siam was admitted within the palace walls, and among the numerous wives of the princes and chief men of the country. Infant schools and female schools are their department; and none can succeed as well as they in obtaining scholars, and instructing and advising mothers. Ladies ought to accompany every mission family. The appeal to them is peculiarly affecting: it is the language of the oppressed and miserable— the united voice of more than one half of their sex. The simple controul of mothers over children is enough to shew how much the happiness and moral habits of a nation depend upon the elevation of females. Let this subject, then, enter into the prayers and efforts of Christian ladies, and such measures be devised, and such teachers sent forth, as shall change the condition of the sex, and place them in the sphere which, in mercy to the world as well as to themselves, they were designed to occupy.

There is still another class in society, who, if we

can judge from external circumstances of Providence, are laid under peculiar obligations to devote themselves to this work. There are men of property, who are engaged in no business, and who have no peculiar obstacles to such an undertaking, whose presence, counsels, prayers, and funds, would greatly redound to their Saviour's glory in heathen lands. What hinders such from employing themselves, and the important talent committed to them, in benefiting a world ? Has their wealth wholly, or even partially, released them from the obligation of glorifying God to the utmost of their ability ? Has a man born to a fortune, or successful in acquiring one,any greater liberty to consult his own pleasure in the disposal of himself and his property, than another? "What has he, that he has not received ? * " and what has he received which he is not bound " to minister according to the ability which God has given him; that God in all things may be glorified, through Jesus Christ?! "

But, without specifying other classes in society, we would inquire of all whom God has sanctified to Himself, have you prayerfully contemplated the obligations under which you lie, to advance the great design which brought the Saviour from His throne, and for which He now reigns? If you have lived in neglect of this duty before, ascend now some eminence which commands the world—gaze upon the scene of desolation and misery, which spreads on every side—

*1 Cor. iv. 7. t 1 Peti iv. 11.

hear the appeals for help, from a thousand millions of souls, multiplying and perishing every hour; and then, with the first prayer of Paul upon your lips, build an altar to Jehovah-Sabaoth, and offer upon it "yourselves a living sacrifice, holy, acceptable unto God, which is your reasonable service*." With such a spirit and such an offering, the path of duty will be made plain.

To those who feel themselves under obligations to remain at home; who have the evidence of an enlightened conscience and a directing providence in favour of their present lot; we must still look for most valuable services in the kingdom of Christ. They must elevate the standard of piety by example and influence—they must furnish the world with suitable men, and necessary means—and, above all, they must pray "for all men " f " always with all prayer and supplication in the Spirit "f"

Ye mothers, did you realize your solemn vows and unalienable obligations to Christ, when you offered your children to Him at the baptismal font ? He accepted His own, and returned them, not as yours, but to be nourished and educated for His service. Yours is a prominent part in the conversion of the world. The army which the King of kings and Lord of lords is to lead on through successive victory to the final conquest ofthe nations, He looks to you to replenish. Oh whatmisery mustbe endured, what guilt incurred,

• Rom. xii. 1. f 1 Tim. ii. 2. J Ephes. vi. 18.

if faithless to your charge ! And oh what happiness will be diffused in the kingdom of Christ—through the heaven of heavens—if your vows are paid, your work performed!

And ye teachers of the young in Infant Schools, Sabbath Schools, and all the various institutions of the land, we plead with you, in behalf of the children committed to your care, and the millions upon whom they are to exert a saving or destructive influence. Make their salvation your chief concern, and leave no means untried for its attainment.

In the name of the Saviour, we ask for the cooperation of all God's people in hastening His universal reign. We would plead with the wealthy, the learned, the eloquent, the influential—all who can act—all who can pray. When every Christian lives for the conversion of the world, he will be discharging his duty, and the world shall soon be saved. Oh that He, with whom is the promise and the power; without whom agents cannot be qualified, nor agency successful; would soon raise up such men and suggest such measures, as His Spirit may employ in subduing the world to Himself!

R

CHAPTER XX.

VOYAGE TO EUROPE.

After leaving the coast of Borneo, where the reader had the last glimpse of the ship, we passed through the Straits of Sunda, and on the night ofthe 16th of August made the memorable island of St. Helena. Early on the morning ofthe 17th, we found ourselves within a few miles of its shore. It is difficult to conceive any thing more rugged and inhospitable than its aspect from this approach : not a tree, scarcely a tuft of grass, could be discerned. A flag-staff or two, a few small batteries and soldiers' lodgings, were all that indicated the presence of man. The rocks, running below in perpendicular strata, and above in horizontal, had a curious appearance. As we approached the side of the island, the hand of man became more visible. We were hailed from a rockperched fort, and ordered to send a boat on shore. This command, however, was not enforced upon hearing "All's well." About seven a.m. we opened James' Valley and Town, and anchored. Here the scene changed. The town, crowded into the fissure of lofty hills, which seemed torn asunder for the purpose

—the forts and dwellings and telegraphs scattered over their sides and summits—the laboured and winding roads leading up their steep acclivities—the detached pieces of ordnance, pointing from the tops of the rocks—as well as the trees and shrubbery, generally brought from other climes, and giving a scanty clothing to some ofthe elevations—proclaimed the triumph of human intellect and art over the most insurmountable obstacles of nature.

As a matter of course, we visited Buonaparte's tomb. An order from the Governor admits you within the enclosure, and entitles you to the attentions and tale of the old guard, and to a branch or two of the overhanging willows. The tomb is composed of three granite slabs, placed longitudinally over the body. An iron grating surrounds it. Thoughts of human grandeur and insignificance, with the high and awful considerations of eternity, follow in rapid succession, as you tread over the mouldering relics of the hero. The struggle of a giant for the universe, of an insect for its microscopic kingdom, have the same finale. Though " this is the man that made the earth to tremble, that did shake kingdoms," yet the meanest slaves that have ever left their ignoble dust upon the island, may address him in the sublime strains of the prophet *—" Art thou also become weak as we? art thou become like unto us?...How

*Isai. xiv. 10—12.

art thou fallen from heaven, O greater than Lucifer*, son ofthe morning! how art thou cut down to the ground, which didst weaken the nations !...The worm is spread under thee, and the worms cover thee." But there is another and more important sense in which this equality may be claimed by all from all. Low and ephemeral indeed are the envied distinctions of earth, when compared with the bright, unfading glories of a future world. To pass from the highest honours of life into "shame and everlasting contempt," how awful!—to awaken from the deepest obscurity, to the dignity of sons of God, how sublime !

We visited Longwood—now a stable, and at best a mean, contracted residence. Five rooms, of most straitened dimensions, were all the apartments allotted him who before had controuled a greater number of kingdoms.

Such a variety of scenery as burst upon the view from every elevated position of this romantic island, is seldom to be found within the same compass. The situations for country-seats, which adorn the uneven face of the high land, are well selected, and some spots are in beautiful cultivation. Blooming valleys and sterile hills arrest the eye at one turn, and smiling hills and barren vales at another. And what is more sublime than all, is the vast expanse of ocean which this elevation commands, with its varied

• King of Babylon : see verse 4.

lights and shades, spreading in boundless perspective, and losing itself high in the distant heavens.

There are two churches, and two chaplains on the island. Our stay was too short to admit of forming many acquaintances. I was happy in being introduced to two or three persons who evinced the spirit of genuine piety, and my short visit was much cheered by the very kind and hospitable attentions received from the American consul, W. Carroll, Esq.

On the morning of the 18th we weighed anchor, and, after encountering a terrific gale off the Western Islands, in which the rudder-head gave way, arrived in England in the middle, of October, after a passage of five months.

For the restoration of health, and in prosecution of his missionary duties, the writer visited various parts of Great Britain and the Continent. Much interest was every where awakened in behalf of the heathen, especially the Ultra-Gangetic nations. All felt that it was a work which claimed the co-operation of the Christian world.

"The unity of the Spirit " was strongly realized while sojouring among the Christians of Great Britain, France, Holland, Germany, and Switzerland. With all the differences of customs, languages, politics, and sects, " all have been baptized into one body, and made to drink of one Spirit," and all agree in the belief that the Saviour looks to his

churches for the speedy extension of his kingdom throughout the world. Oh, when shall wars cease and those barriers of national and ecclesiastical separation, which have so long divided brethren, fall, like the walls of Jericho, and lie under the perpetual ban of Joshua's great Antitype !

FINIS.

Printed by G. EUerton, Grugli Square, London.