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Frustrated Parakeet’s Illustrated Guide to Snarls of Wiring

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A guide for building attractive wire nests that’ll impress anyone, guaranteed.

These guides should not be considered authoritative: if ever in doubt, refer to the BOM/build guide for your filter and the pins list in the main documentation.

Note
 The diagrams themselves were not made by Sanaa, and credit should be attributed to their authors listed above each section.
Table of Contents

Gotchas & General Notes (READ ME DAMN IT)

  • Build and test all your electronics twice: once before mounting anything in a build, then again once everything is mounted but just before you screw/press everything closed. [1]

    Complete the entire Electronics Testing Checklist.

    The electronics system should be fully operational on your table/floor/work surface before anything else gets built. This will save you from disassembling the entire build if something was damaged during soldering, wiring, or assembly.

  • You might not need everything you see.

    These guides often include optional components.

  • Some features/hardware might not be shown.

    These guides are not necessarily complete/exhaustive.

  • Wagos are shown for clarity but you might have to splice/solder wires instead.

    Consider them optional, depending on your budget and filter. (e.g. Wagos might not fit in the space available.) You just need to ensure those wires are on the same circuit.

  • Use 3.3v to power your sensors instead of 5v when possible.

    • All [2] sensor boards can handle 3.3v. This is not true for 5v.

    • If you screw up your wiring (e.g. swap Vin with SCL or SDA), you’re less likely to fry your device. Avoid doing that.

  • Voltage converters can usually be avoided.

    Most aftermarket printer boards can serve as an external PSU providing both 12v and 5v: 12v, 0v from an always-on fan port, and 5v from any Pi power, probe pin, etc.

    Note
    		 If you’re using a lot of 12v equipment (e.g. hotend and bed), double check that you’re not overloading the 12v rail. This is quite unlikely, but best be safe.

  • Power the Pico/RP2040 using VSYS, not VBUS.

    Powering using the VBUS pin will cause the controller to think it is connected via USB, and will cause it to wait while for a serial port connection during startup. This isn’t a fatal mistake but it is trivial to avoid.

  • Don’t touch the tiny sensor surface mounted devices (SMDs) with your filthy raccoon fingers.

    Handling the sensor’s board is fine, but don’t touch the sensors themselves. It probably won’t damage them, but it will smear skin oils/fats all over them which can affect readings.

    Warning
    		 Do not clean them with soap or alcohols. This can damage the sensor’s isolating membranes. If you’ve touched it, either leave it alone or use the softest paper towel or microfiber cloth you have and gently wipe off the surface.

Electronics Testing Checklist

If any of these fail, fix them before proceeding with the rest of the build.

  • Fan Works: Fan spins when powered and PWM pin is disconnected.

  • Controller Flashed: Controller’s LED blinks slowly (~1 hz)

  • Klipper Connects: The NEVERMORE_STATUS G-Code command should report "connected". See main documentation.

  • Sensors Registering: Mainsail shows sane values for intake and exhaust temperature, humidity, and VOC index. (It can take up to 30 seconds after power on for VOC to show up.)

  • Fan PWM: Can turn on/off the fan using SET_FAN_SPEED FAN=nevermore_fan SPEED=0/1.

  • Fan Tachometer: Fan RPM in Mainsail is non-zero when fan is turned on.

Standard Fan Pin Layout

Help! All the fan wires are black/white/fuchsia! How do I tell them apart?

Assuming the fan’s mfg isn’t insane:

wiring fan pins
Figure 1. Standard 4 Pin Fan Connector Layout

For 3 pins, it’s exactly the same except you don’t have a PWM pin.

If you’ve any doubts, test by briefly pulsing what you think is Vin and ground with 5v. If the fan twitches, you got the right ones and can deduce the rest of the pins.

Builds

General / Nevermore StealthMax (S) - Pico W

Author: Fragmon (Steven, Crydteam)

This diagram is illustrates a Pico W setup w/ nearly all features enabled. This would typically be seen in a Nevermore StealthMax (S) filter, though the display is not a standard feature and would require either a custom cap (search the Discord) or be mounted outside the filter.

wiring stealthmax
Figure 2. Nevermore StealthMax (S) Wiring Diagram

Nevermore Mini - Waveshare Touch 1.28"

Author: Fragmon (Steven, Crydteam)

This diagram is intended for a setup where the filter is powered by a USB port in the base of the filter.

Note
 The fan listed in the diagram is rated for 12v but can operate at 5v.
Warning
 The general release UF2 cannot be used with this board because it is not a Pico W. There are custom builds floating on the discord. Consider this a beta/early release.
wiring mini waveshare touch 1.28
Figure 3. Nevermore Mini - Waveshare Touch 1.28" Wiring Diagram
1. This really matters for builds like the StealthMax, where there’s 20,00+ screws and half the parts of press-fit and are not made to be easily disassembled.
2. Almost all?