CI: drop use of Meson workflow

See if this helps with the swallowed up error messages

.github/workflows/ubuntu.yml

@@ -43,13 +43,12 @@ jobs:
         uses: hendrikmuhs/ccache-action@v1.0.5
         with:
           key: ${{ matrix.id }}
-      - uses: BSFishy/meson-build@v1.0.3
-        with:
-          # Use 0.60 to get graceful failures of gtest protocol
-          meson-version: 0.60.3
-          setup-options: ${{ matrix.cfg.setup_options }}
-          action: test
-          directory: builddir
+      - name: Meson
+        run: |
+            python -m pip install meson==0.60.3
+            meson setup builddir ${{ matrix.cfg.setup_options }}
+            ninja -C builddir
+            ninja -C builddir test
 
   clang-tidy:
     runs-on: ubuntu-latest